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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v3
- Thread starter Crazymoogle
- Start date
- PC Tech OT
Yep, besides wanting a particular look, the Mugen 5 is probably the most one should be spending on an air cooler for the 3600x.
Outside extreme circumstances, a 3600x doesn't use enough current to make $90 coolers show their edge.
Is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 decent? It seems to review fairly well and is $45/49cdn as opposed to the $100+ cdn that the Scythe/Noctua is.
Prices will drop... however with the way covid 19 is affecting us i dont think there will be any events this year so you might not hear about 3 series till 2021...
It is good enough for a 3600x, if available, the Artic Freezer 34 eSports is better.
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The Scythe Fuma 2 is a way better option and it's around $60, universally praised by reviewers.
Stupid question. I recently got an LG Ultrafine 4K monitor I'd like to hook my PC up to. Is it possible to connect my GPU from my tower via the usb-c port to the monitor?
OP
OP
...maybe? Depends a lot on the specific model. Ideally you would get a DisplayPort>USB-C cable to try. I hear those displays usually don't have an input switcher though, which could make the experience deeply painful if you are switching to a mac often.
Ugh That's a fair point since I do switch back and forth from my pc to Mac. I have my PC hooked up to my tv anyway so maybe I'll just keep it there until a good 144hz monitor with USB-C/TB3 comes out
Been watching this and holy hell
I have heard about this snafu but never bothered to watch it, but just seeing this i don't want to
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For what CPU?
If you have an AMD CPU then the one that comes with it is just as good if not better than the 212. If you have a 3700X or above you could use the stock cooler but highly recommend getting an aftermarket cooler and definitely not a 212.
If you have an Intel CPU then yeah get a 212 as a minimum. If the CPU came with a cooler then you should replace it in most cases. If you have something like a 9700/9900K you will need all the cooling you can get so don't get a cheap air cooler. High end air cooler or water (aio or custom)
Welp. Looks like i'm back on Team Red! Fixed my 3900x build. Updated the bios and tested the ram and everything seems ok. Hopefully i didn't do enough damage to this computer, but so far so good. Given my 9900k build to my little sis so she will have an awesome computer to game on if she ever desires to. :)
Kinda bummed i wasted 2,400 for nothing, but i did get a 2080 super and 1 tb SSD out of it.
Kinda bummed i wasted 2,400 for nothing, but i did get a 2080 super and 1 tb SSD out of it.
I don't really watch reaction videos, but that's the only way I could watch what the guy was doing wrong lol.
What happened?
I had issues with my 3700X system and ended up returning the x570 board and selling the CPU. I lost about £200 because of it. Ended up buying a 9900K/z390 board.
Your sister is very lucky! And glad things are working out now for you
For a year i kept on getting BSODs randomly and i had no idea why(i'm not tech savvy). Eventually it got to the point where i couldn't boot into windows anymore. Did a fresh new Windows install and then my wifi was messed up and i was just so frustrated i bought a 9900k pre build from NZXT a month ago. I was having the same bsod problems on that build and i figured out it was the RAM that was unstable.
I swapped some of the components from the 9900k build to the 3900x build and did a memtest and it past the test! :) I think it was just the bios version that was messed up and corrupted since i was still on the launch version.
The Verge video was absolutely horrible, but a few of these guys were cringe themselves.
Where in Canada are you located in? If you're located in the Greater Vancouver Area I wouldn't mind giving you my Scythe Fuma (ver 1) once the whole corona virus thing settles down as I frequently visit Vancouver.
If you don't live in that area, just pay for shipping it's yours. It's been used, but works fine, I just downgraded to a Mugen 5 for ram clearance and it's taking up space.
Hello, right now my PC has an i5 9600k OC to 4.8ghz, 8GB of Ram, RTX 2060 6GB, and 2 500gb 2.5 sata 3 SSDs, to keep up with next gen console what do you think i could get right now? My motherboard supports the m2 SSDs but i wanted to wait until this fall to get one since price could go down and speeds up, and about the RTX 2060, will it still be relevant after next gen for my ultra wide 2560x1080p monitor?
You may want to get get 16GB of ram or an SSD, but there is no reason to upgrade for next gen right now since we can only guess. If next gen titles are launching in Q4 of 2020, then upgrade then, both nvidia and AMD new cards may be out around the same window.
The most obvious improvement you can make to your build is switching your RAM configuration to 2x8GB—most would say 3000MHz speed or higher.
Past that, you really just need to wait until the next-gen consoles are released. You already have SSDs, so you're good there because M.2 shows a negligible improvement over SATA III for PC games at this point.
Some people might try to say that your CPU will need replacing because it's 6c/6t compared to the next-gen console's 8c/16t, but it's not a simple direct comparison between the two, as consoles operate differently from traditional PCs. Your GPU will still be great for next-gen at 2560×1080.
Hey everyone I'm looking for sub $400 monitor recommendations.
I am currently looking into the Acer Nitro XV272U Pbmiiprzx and the Pixio Prime P7 but from my understanding these use the same panel that's also found in the Gigabyte Aorus AD27QD which got a lot of praise and $100 cheaper.
Was wondering if anyone has any other suggestions?
I'm looking for
I am currently looking into the Acer Nitro XV272U Pbmiiprzx and the Pixio Prime P7 but from my understanding these use the same panel that's also found in the Gigabyte Aorus AD27QD which got a lot of praise and $100 cheaper.
Was wondering if anyone has any other suggestions?
I'm looking for
- Flat panels, I don't like curved displays
- IPS, want to see what the fuss is about
- Freesync compatible as I have a RX 5700 XT
- $400 max, no $420 or $410.
Using the stock Wraith Prism cooler that came with the 3700x.
Is the cooler loud for anyone? It starts quiet then every now and then it ramps up to full speed. Its really annoying.
Is the cooler loud for anyone? It starts quiet then every now and then it ramps up to full speed. Its really annoying.
Finally got the semi-budget VR build assembled yesterday. Played the very early parts of Half Life: Alyx (Oculus Quest + Link) and so far, so good.
I do have a heatsink from an old build I can use, but just using the stock one for now. Still need to tweak the case fans. (One or both of the Scythe fans has kind of a rattly quality to it, but not sure if it's due to running off a fan splitter. Should check fan headers in the BIOS.) Phanteks PSU is a version of the SeaSonic Focus Plus series.
If I was thinking ahead, I would have left the SATA drive disconnected before installing Windows. Even though the NVMe was first in the boot order, and I chose it for the Windows install, it still put the MBR on the SATA drive. Oh well.
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor (Purchased For $110.52)
Motherboard: Asus TUF B450M-PLUS GAMING Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (Purchased For $64.46)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (Purchased For $59.99)
Storage: HP EX920 256 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (Purchased For $34.99)
Storage: SanDisk Ultra 3D 2 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $114.99)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB DUAL EVO OC Video Card (Purchased For $229.99)
Case: Fractal Design Core 2500 ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: Phanteks AMP 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $89.99)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P12 redux-1300 PWM 54.32 CFM 120 mm Fan (Purchased For $13.90)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P12 redux-1300 PWM 54.32 CFM 120 mm Fan (Purchased For $13.90)
Custom: Silverstone CPF02 11.81" 300mm (100mm/100mm/100mm) Black Sleeved (Purchased For $5.99)
Custom: Silverstone CPF02 11.81" 300mm (100mm/100mm/100mm) Black Sleeved (Purchased For $5.99)
Custom: Scythe GlideStream 120mm PWM SC Case Fan SY1225HB12MS-RKP (Purchased For $0.00)
Custom: Scythe GlideStream 120mm PWM SC Case Fan SY1225HB12MS-RKP (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $744.71
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-03-24 11:58 EDT-0400
I do have a heatsink from an old build I can use, but just using the stock one for now. Still need to tweak the case fans. (One or both of the Scythe fans has kind of a rattly quality to it, but not sure if it's due to running off a fan splitter. Should check fan headers in the BIOS.) Phanteks PSU is a version of the SeaSonic Focus Plus series.
If I was thinking ahead, I would have left the SATA drive disconnected before installing Windows. Even though the NVMe was first in the boot order, and I chose it for the Windows install, it still put the MBR on the SATA drive. Oh well.
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor (Purchased For $110.52)
Motherboard: Asus TUF B450M-PLUS GAMING Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (Purchased For $64.46)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (Purchased For $59.99)
Storage: HP EX920 256 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (Purchased For $34.99)
Storage: SanDisk Ultra 3D 2 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $114.99)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB DUAL EVO OC Video Card (Purchased For $229.99)
Case: Fractal Design Core 2500 ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: Phanteks AMP 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $89.99)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P12 redux-1300 PWM 54.32 CFM 120 mm Fan (Purchased For $13.90)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P12 redux-1300 PWM 54.32 CFM 120 mm Fan (Purchased For $13.90)
Custom: Silverstone CPF02 11.81" 300mm (100mm/100mm/100mm) Black Sleeved (Purchased For $5.99)
Custom: Silverstone CPF02 11.81" 300mm (100mm/100mm/100mm) Black Sleeved (Purchased For $5.99)
Custom: Scythe GlideStream 120mm PWM SC Case Fan SY1225HB12MS-RKP (Purchased For $0.00)
Custom: Scythe GlideStream 120mm PWM SC Case Fan SY1225HB12MS-RKP (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $744.71
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-03-24 11:58 EDT-0400
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Finally got the semi-budget VR build assembled yesterday. Played the very early parts of Half Life: Alyx (Oculus Quest + Link) and so far, so good.
I do have a heatsink from an old build I can use, but just using the stock one for now. Still need to tweak the case fans. (One or both of the Scythe fans has kind of a rattly quality to it, but not sure if it's due to running off a fan splitter. Should check fan headers in the BIOS.) Phanteks PSU is a version of the SeaSonic Focus Plus series.
If I was thinking ahead, I would have left the SATA drive disconnected before installing Windows. Even though the NVMe was first in the boot order, and I chose it for the Windows install, it still put the MBR on the SATA drive. Oh well.
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor (Purchased For $110.52)
Motherboard: Asus TUF B450M-PLUS GAMING Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (Purchased For $64.46)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (Purchased For $59.99)
Storage: HP EX920 256 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (Purchased For $34.99)
Storage: SanDisk Ultra 3D 2 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $114.99)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB DUAL EVO OC Video Card (Purchased For $229.99)
Case: Fractal Design Core 2500 ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: Phanteks AMP 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $89.99)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P12 redux-1300 PWM 54.32 CFM 120 mm Fan (Purchased For $13.90)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-P12 redux-1300 PWM 54.32 CFM 120 mm Fan (Purchased For $13.90)
Custom: Silverstone CPF02 11.81" 300mm (100mm/100mm/100mm) Black Sleeved (Purchased For $5.99)
Custom: Silverstone CPF02 11.81" 300mm (100mm/100mm/100mm) Black Sleeved (Purchased For $5.99)
Custom: Scythe GlideStream 120mm PWM SC Case Fan SY1225HB12MS-RKP (Purchased For $0.00)
Custom: Scythe GlideStream 120mm PWM SC Case Fan SY1225HB12MS-RKP (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $744.71
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-03-24 11:58 EDT-0400
No RGB, Very clean and very kindly priced.
A very good build.
But damn that GPU is thick as fuck.
Does your case not allow you to take our the HDD and ODD trays?
Most reviews say the stock cooler is decent just loud. I replaced mine with a noctua nh-u12a and never used the stock cooler.
Yeah I have a DRP4 on the way. The noise is just so annoying that I don't even want to install the OS on it.
Thanks. The GPU does have a stripe of RGB across the front that I don't think is user controllable. And the board has a little RGB logo down by the SATA ports. But not especially ostentatious.
The HDD cages are removable; don't think optical bays are. I actually like having my SATA drive in the bottom bay there, but really should have thought about removing the upper cage. Maybe if I swap the cooler in the future, I could take care of that. (There is one rear SSD mount behind the PSU, but it requires screwing in from the other side, unlike the options on some higher priced cases.)
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So here are similar videos showing what my PSU Sounds like:
Note that this ONLY happens when the GPU is taking lots of power (according to HWMonitor). Which basically means anytime a heavy 3D game is on screen it takes up "75%" of my GPU. Ive never had this happen with the older GPU. Is this normal? The sound is very loud. It's a hum/whine. With occasional crackling/popping. If I alt-tab out of the game, it IMMEDIATELY stops. No slowing down (so I assume its not the fan). Just flat out cuts out the whining sound.
Unrelated note: I have an i5 3570K. How big of a jump up is AMD Ryzen 5 2600? Is it worth the $200 CAD?
Note that this ONLY happens when the GPU is taking lots of power (according to HWMonitor). Which basically means anytime a heavy 3D game is on screen it takes up "75%" of my GPU. Ive never had this happen with the older GPU. Is this normal? The sound is very loud. It's a hum/whine. With occasional crackling/popping. If I alt-tab out of the game, it IMMEDIATELY stops. No slowing down (so I assume its not the fan). Just flat out cuts out the whining sound.
Unrelated note: I have an i5 3570K. How big of a jump up is AMD Ryzen 5 2600? Is it worth the $200 CAD?
Someone teach me how to set fan curves.
I have a MSI Tomahawk B450 Max with a 3600 w/ Noctua U14s cooler in addition to 2x 140mm front case fans and 1x 120mm rear case fan.
I tried setting my own curve but I can hear the fans spinning up and spinning down like every other minute just idling and I don't know why it won't stay at a consistent fan rpm just idling! Arrrrg.
I have a MSI Tomahawk B450 Max with a 3600 w/ Noctua U14s cooler in addition to 2x 140mm front case fans and 1x 120mm rear case fan.
I tried setting my own curve but I can hear the fans spinning up and spinning down like every other minute just idling and I don't know why it won't stay at a consistent fan rpm just idling! Arrrrg.
I think that's just how Ryzen cpus work. Same thing with my 3900x the cpu usage constantly goes up and down even when nothing is going on. Do you have your power plan set to Ryzen balanced?
Check how much temps fluctuate when idle, and thru not very intensive tasks like web browsing, movies, or a software that you use for work like Photoshop and whatnot ( you especially want to avoid the distraction of fans ramping up and down when you work) , then have the peak temps be the base of your curve.
For me temps while doing non intensive tasks goes from 37 to 48, so I have a constant low fan speed for up to 50C. Then only increase speeds after they approach 60C, and 70C.
RAM Question- I need to go up to 16 gb to run Half-Life Alyx, and my PC is rather old (built in January 2014), but it should meet the minimum specs (i5-4670, GTX 1060). The problem is my motherboard only takes DDR3 ram, and Amazon is obviously out of the question right now. I want to get Ram from Best Buy, but this is the only DDR3 Desktop Ram they have in stock to pick up
I don't know jack about what's important as far as speed for Desktop Ram, but 1.6 ghz seems low. Will buying 2 of these sticks work for me?
I don't know jack about what's important as far as speed for Desktop Ram, but 1.6 ghz seems low. Will buying 2 of these sticks work for me?
So I'm not sure whether this is the right thread, but figured you guys might know something about this.
I recently bought a new 4K TV (LG E9) and hooked it up to my PC. My main monitor is also a 4K display. However for a couple games that I tried (ie Sunset Overdrive, Borderlands 3), when I want to run the game at a native 4K on my TV, it runs at like 720p or something even worse - it is super pixelated. Yet, it shows that it's running at 4K when it clearly is not. Updating it to 1440p or 1080p will run in those resolutions just fine however (and will look much better) but not in 4k on the TV. Yet it runs just fine at 4K on my monitor. Anyone know what's up?
I recently bought a new 4K TV (LG E9) and hooked it up to my PC. My main monitor is also a 4K display. However for a couple games that I tried (ie Sunset Overdrive, Borderlands 3), when I want to run the game at a native 4K on my TV, it runs at like 720p or something even worse - it is super pixelated. Yet, it shows that it's running at 4K when it clearly is not. Updating it to 1440p or 1080p will run in those resolutions just fine however (and will look much better) but not in 4k on the TV. Yet it runs just fine at 4K on my monitor. Anyone know what's up?
DDR3.
What speed is the ram youve got right now?
Ill be its around 1.6 or even 1.3 so youll be in good company with the sticks you are getting.
I think my 2500K PC had 1866Mhz ram and that was considered fast back then.
So 1.6 for DDR3 while slow sounds about right for the times.
it looks like my old Corsair Vengence sticks are also 1.6 ghz ram, so this should be the same, just doesn't "look" as cool (my case is fully closed so it's not like it matters. I'll grab 2 of these, thanks!
If I wanted to build a PC that would be able to run the new Half Life well, how much would that approximately cost me? know absolutely nothing about building PCs, but watching that VR gameplay is really tempting me.
Aiming for Half Life: Alyx's min spec comes close to $600 (before OS, peripherals, or any VR gear).
System Builder
pcpartpicker.com
EDIT - I guess I chose a 590 instead of RX 580 (which is their listed min spec card). So knock like $30 off that price for a cheap 580 8GB instead of a 590.
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Do we have any idea when the ampere gpu's are coming out yet? I'm really itching to build a new pc right now but I'm worried I'll build something and then see the 3000 series is releasing in like June or something. Are we expecting the Corona Virus to have delayed things?
With current global conditions, I think that greedy Nvidia is going to wait as long as possible to launch their new GPUs now until the economy recovers. But they still HAVE to release these premium products before the new consoles come out in November.
The value proposition for the PS5 and the Xbox Series X is looking greater and greater every day.
The hubris of Intel and especially Nvidia knows no bounds. The only reason these new Nvidia GPUs aren't going to cost a super premium is that they simply can't; they have to compete with new consoles so they won't cost a fortune.
Thanks for the help, I was hoping to spend around $750 so I guess that gives me a bit of wiggle room to upgrade.Aiming for Half Life: Alyx's min spec comes close to $600 (before OS, peripherals, or any VR gear).
This isn't exactly a recommended build, just seeing how cheap it is at the moment. There are probably adjustments that could be made for not much more money. Might also depend on what headset you get (resolution, refresh/frame rate).System Builder
EDIT - I guess I chose a 590 instead of RX 580 (which is their listed min spec card). So knock like $30 off that price for a cheap 580 8GB instead of a 590.
Rekordbox stores all it's data (other than the source MP3s / WAVs or whatever) in C:\Users\your username\AppData\Roaming\Pioneer\Rekordbox
I'd take a copy of that whole folder tree ASAP while you can still access the drive. Obv it won't be C:\ any more if it's now in your desktop, and replace your username with whatever that is. Hopefully this should be easy to navigate.
Then, you should be able to install Rekordbox elsewhere, then overwrite it's AppData\Roaming folder tree with the backup - and everything should be restored! So long as music files are in the same locations, anyhow.
Hopefully this gives you a good start on recovering, "days and days of work" is quite easily a lowball, there's so much can be stored in here!
Eh, I'm not sure how concerned Nvidia is with losing customers to consoles. PC gamers are usually PC gamers regardless of consoles existing. You'll lose some sure, but my guess would be that its a very very small amount in the grand scheme of things.
Might be a topic for another thread though.
Most likely delayed so rumors pretty much died off entirely for the time being... probably Q3 if they can get everything together, if not potentially Q4 pushed into 2021
I believe they WANT to launch them alongside or near Cyberpunk and if they do it will be in drastically low quantities just to say they released it and it was out there
You're very right.
But with these articles and news of PC gaming hardware components going up in price, and the current global recession, people are going to choose other avenues in which to spend their money. People are going to start buying 'used' more when they can.
Damn, I was hoping it'd be a bit sooner than that. I guess it'll still be best to wait but it's gonna be tough :/
What's a good sweet spot for a TV/Monitor that will be used for a student? main criteria
- not too big so it can be transported fairly easily in a car along With other belongings
- can be used as external monitor for a laptop (MacBook pro)
- mostly used for connecting an Xbox one (so hdmi)
Was thinking 27-28" 1080p. Is 32" too big?
- not too big so it can be transported fairly easily in a car along With other belongings
- can be used as external monitor for a laptop (MacBook pro)
- mostly used for connecting an Xbox one (so hdmi)
Was thinking 27-28" 1080p. Is 32" too big?
When I was student I used a 32" TV it wasnt a problem transporting it, TVs have been pretty thin and light since forever.
And I used to drive a Nissan S13 two door sports car (Yes the S13 is a sports car you dogs).
But my room was a decent size and could fit like 5 people comfortably when we used to game.
Probably like 8 - 10 people if I count people not gaming just sitting on the bed.
If you are at your desk most of the time I would say go for a 27" or less at 1080p for pixel density sake.
OK so Im going to just assume my PSU issue is coil whine. My temperatures are fine and I dont see how my power consumption is outpacing the 500W PSU. I just hope I dont explode or something.
I have a couple of noob questions:
1) What happens if I go over my VRAM? I have a 4GB VRAM card and I worry I made a bad purchase. Will I damage my card? Can I compensate with my system RAM so that I can keep textures on high? Can I just upgrade my system RAM and be okay with maxing out VRAM?
2) Should I upgrade my i5 3570K CPU? What's a good upgrade that wont break the bank? I dont have any issues right now with PC slowness, but would the CPU affect my GTX 1650S?
I have a couple of noob questions:
1) What happens if I go over my VRAM? I have a 4GB VRAM card and I worry I made a bad purchase. Will I damage my card? Can I compensate with my system RAM so that I can keep textures on high? Can I just upgrade my system RAM and be okay with maxing out VRAM?
2) Should I upgrade my i5 3570K CPU? What's a good upgrade that wont break the bank? I dont have any issues right now with PC slowness, but would the CPU affect my GTX 1650S?
No nothing gets damaged. When your dedicated GPU runs out of Vram then system memory the RAM sticks in your laptop or desktop start getting used up next which is slower then your vram. expect stutters or fps reductions when this happens so you will want to lower settings so that it doesn't exceed your vram limit.
At this point i wouldn't recommend any card that doesn't have at least 8gb vram.