Even if it's slower, is it necessarily going to make me stutter/drop FPS? Suppose I upgrade to 16 GB of RAM, would I have any real issues with performance?
What budget card would u recommend with 8GB VRAM?
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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v3
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Even if it's slower, is it necessarily going to make me stutter/drop FPS? Suppose I upgrade to 16 GB of RAM, would I have any real issues with performance?
What budget card would u recommend with 8GB VRAM?
Yes it will. The severity of it will depend on the game i'm sure, but it will happen.
For AMD i would recommend The RX 5700 XT and RX 5700 they are the best bang for buck GPUs right now. Though if you care about ray tracing neither of them have Ray Tracing support.
For Nvidia I would recommend the 2060 or 2070 Super if you have the funds.
OP
OP
Yes. GDDR5 RAM on a modern video card is closely tied to the GPU (physically, as in extremely close) with a high bandwidth channel. It's so much faster that if your card runs out and starts bleeding into DDR System Memory, all it's really doing is swapping out data on the GPU RAM with the System RAM. This is where most of the performance penalty comes from. Onboard GPUs (like in Intel CPUs) can use system memory but as history has shown are also massively slower devices.
There is one interesting example of this which is the GTX 970, which ships with 4GB of RAM. For technical (poor) reasons Nvidia segmented the final half GB and thus there is a severe (25+%) performance hit for going above 3.5GB. And that's for memory literally on the card. Accessing system memory is dramatically slower since it requires communicating through the CPU and motherboard.
Is there any decent ITX cases out there than can fit a full size ATX PSU and GPU? AKA, no silly RGB lights and performant/functional.
I've currently got a CM 130 Elite and a Corsair H80i (IIRC) which are now 4+ years old and so temps are getting a bit spicy on the CPU, but the case itself isn't the best for ventilation any how.
I've currently got a CM 130 Elite and a Corsair H80i (IIRC) which are now 4+ years old and so temps are getting a bit spicy on the CPU, but the case itself isn't the best for ventilation any how.
The H1 is getting a ton of good press right now, fits most full sized GPUs with the only limitation being width seemingly
Has it's own PSU though
This is the only thing, although I don't doubt the quality of the PSU, I already have a Corsair 760i.
The H1 looks great though, for sure.
You best bet for better thermals may be the cubes with mesh front like the Thermaltake V1 and in the more traditional big "almost-matx" cases like the Fractal Design Define Nano S, Phanteks Ento Evolve ITX and the NZXT H200/H210. (also the MetallicGear Neo Mini V2, and the very expensive Sliger Cerberus which is actually a small MTX case).
As for cases more on the SFF side, Rainjitek has two cases that fit ATX PSUs but only up to 2-slot GPUs, OPHION EVO and METIS EVO. The Cougar Case QBX also fits ATX up to 140mm. There is also a case sold in North America as the Golden Field N-1, that was previously the Kolink Satellite overseas. But I'll be surprised if these had better thermals than your current case. They are just small.
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Replaced all the keys on my keyboard with doubleshot PBT keycaps from Razer. I gotta say, given how expensive doubleshot typically is, I was delighted that Razer (of all companies!) was making among the most affordable ones. Easiest $30 I ever spent on a non-essential PC component.
32 is where you can also use it like a TV in a small room. I would definitely consider that. The monitors are too light and thin for transporting to be a problem.
a 4K 32" screen has enough space for working and general productivity and still looks very sharp. You have the option of getting a VA screen like Benq EW3270 which cost around $400-500. IPS variants cost a lot more, EW3280 cost $800+, LG ones cost $1000+ and have edgelit HDR, you can just buy a good 55" TCL TV for less so I don't think it is worth it.
VA panels have better contrast, they are better for media and console gaming but IPS screens are better for PC monitor use when you sit close, they look noticeably better and cleaner and they don't smear on high contrast areas like text which becomes very obvious when you sit close and read webpages in a dark theme for example.
If you prefer to go smaller, there is a new Samsung 28" IPS monitor out there U28R550, it is not out in NA yet, it has only released in Europe so far. This has a brand new panel, has wide gamut and should be good and best of all it is affordable. It is like $300. This would be my choice if you can find it.
If you can't get that, LG 27" 4K UL5xx and UL6xx monitors cost about same and are widely available. I have a 27UL650, it's a decent monitor for ~$300 I paid for it. I like their minimal industrial design as well, they look good on a desk if you care about that stuff.
If you want to go even cheaper, Philips 276E8VJSB is like the cheapest good 4K screen. Compared with others here, it lacks freesync and fakeHDR which you probably don't care about either. You will be able to use Freesync with the new consoles, it is something you might want to have but the range is very limited on these, it is like 40-60 at best (on LG) and others might be 50-60 but then again you can't expect more on a 60Hz screen.
I wouldn't get a 1080p monitor for your case. They are horrible to work with. When you connect your macbook to an external screen, you expect something that is at least comparable with your laptop screen and gives you a large surface to work with. 1080p screens are horrible, you can fit like 2 MS Word pages side by side at most. They are no good for productivity. 4K60 screens are really not expensive anymore and they make a huge difference in desktop and reading experience. When you avoid context switching, you will get a whole lot more done.
I wouldn't get ultrawide because they are somewhat harder to transport and not ideal for console gaming. They also cost more than the 4K screens I mentioned for worse picture quality relative to their cost.
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It's normal width but slightly longer IIRC - I believe its this one https://www.evga.com/products/specs/gpu.aspx?pn=db8f805f-ea5e-44c1-9654-f0c115f9028e
SG13 is very similar to what I have now.
Thanks for this. Out of these the Define Nano S and NZXT H2xx seem the best for my needs / setup - and slightly slimmer than my CM130E on the width front. As far as I can tell, they'd both accept top-end CPU coolers too like Noctua D12/15 series.
Similar, but a lot smaller with the SG13 being under 12 liters and your 130 being almost 20.
But seems that you're looking to go bigger anyway.
I don't know if this is the right thread to ask but my 8 year old PC build is blue screening and I think it's due to the memory. How do I know if its mobo can take any new pair of RAM I can buy today? Are there any compatibility concerns?
OP
OP
If it's 8 years old, the considerations are:
- if you have two RAM sticks and one failed, you probably want to remove both of them and try a new pair. Issues tend to come from mismatching memory across the two channels.
- it's probably DDR3 (not modern DDR4) and possibly DDR2...? You need to find out what is currently in your system. Download CPU-Z(see the main page...)
- if you want to test your memory, download memtest86, that can be installed to a USB stick and run on boot, as I recall?
It's DDR3. All I need to do is just narrow the search down to getting DDR3 sticks only, right?
download memtest86 on a usb and test for memory errors. If you get even one error than your memory is unstable.
OP
OP
Yeah, basically. It would help to make sure you meet/exceed the specs of what you have but most DDR3 left on the market should...
Hoping to get some help from the PC pro's on Era. I have absolutely zero experience with PC gaming but I want to play Half-Life Alyx.
I have no idea what the price range is for a PC that can run the game, what optimal configurations are, well pretty much anything XD
Here is what I found on my first basic search for something that works;
www.ibuypower.com
Is this a good website for getting what I need? I basically just want a PC that will run HL:Alyx straight out of the box at high settings with good stable frame-rate. Any help would be greatly appreciated :)
I have no idea what the price range is for a PC that can run the game, what optimal configurations are, well pretty much anything XD
Here is what I found on my first basic search for something that works;
900703: iBUYPOWER®
Custom Gaming PC - 10 years of award-winning Custom Gaming Computers & gaming laptops custom-built for PC gamers. Build the best Gaming PC at iBUYPOWER
Is this a good website for getting what I need? I basically just want a PC that will run HL:Alyx straight out of the box at high settings with good stable frame-rate. Any help would be greatly appreciated :)
I slept on buying a LG 27GL83A monitor, and now it seems to be out of stock everywhere (possibly not sold anymore), any suggestions for the next best thing?
I doubt it is not going to be sold anymore. Even if production has not been affected, I'm guessing they may be waiting in an LG warehouse to be distributed, but the transportation industry also being affected has put a hold on retailers getting certain products.
Look at bigger components like cases on Amazon, various of the popular models can't be found at the moment. Hell even the Nintendo switch is sold out.
Fractal Define Nano S.
It's pretty large as far as ITX cases go, but it supports full size everything including 240mm radiators.
Gotcha. I'll wait it out and see what happens.
Also, since that monitor was out of stock I started looking more closely for other options, and after reading more detailed reviews the LG IPS panels have a really low contrast ratio, like 750:1 vs typical ips 1000:1
So that led me to take a look at the LG 32GK850G since it has a fast VA panel. Depending what that costs once that's in stock, could be an option over the IPS.
My father-in-law has a 10 year old PC and desperately needs an upgrade. I think he has a i3 5xx processor. Can someone put together a build for office/productivity in a small matx package? Needs a DVD drive.
What is the budget?
Reasonably you can go as low as $500 still using new parts, but if you think he can't benefit from more than the most basic parts it's not going to be as price competitive compared to getting a prebuild from Acer and whatnot (Using new retail parts I can''t beat the price of this Acer PC, I can only try to match it).
Here's for instance a build with the Dual Core Ryzen 3000G. Which is the lowest I recommend going in terms of CPU. (Going for a the Quad core 3200G would add $40, going for the still better 3400G would add $100)
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Athlon 3000G 3.5 GHz Dual-Core Processor ($54.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: MSI B450M PRO-M2 MAX Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Case: In Win CE685.FH300TB3 MicroATX Slim Case w/300 W Power Supply ($79.99 @ B&H)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($22.98 @ B&H)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($106.99 @ Other World Computing)
Total: $467.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-03-25 19:35 EDT-0400
Cases are up to taste, but the one selected includes a power supply unit which helps reducing costs. There is also a newer better looking model that costs about the same that doesn't seem to be in PCpartpicker yet, but it uses slim DVD drives instead of a regular one.
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EDIT - Another option with a quad-core CPU, wi-fi card, small tower format case. (I had an i3 4c build, but removed it because it didn't have an iGPU.)
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 3200G 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($94.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: MSI B450M PRO-M2 MAX Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.99 @ B&H)
Memory: GeIL EVO SPEAR 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($63.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($49.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: EVGA BR 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($41.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer ($20.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($99.99)
Wireless Network Adapter: Rosewill RNX-AC600PCEv3 PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $531.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-03-25 20:40 EDT-0400
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Bit of a rant on GPU prices (as of now) because the state of the GPU market, for the moment, is simply heinous on the high-end:
So, i've started to buy certain parts for my next PC build...aside from the GPU. I don't have any intention of finalizing the GPU for the build until:
-We know what "Big Navi" real-world performance is like since that seems to be coming out sooner
-NVIDIA unveils something about its 3XXX lineup
Aside from the potential price drops for the current cards (the 2080 Super seems like it'll be solid for 1440p gaming at a high framerate for the next few years, which is what I plan to use the PC for along with heavy video editing but that price is...oof), i'd prefer not paying over $800 for a GPU but, looking at current prices, if the new cards are close to the current lineup from NVIDIA, they're going to be stupid expensive once again; NVIDIA is currently carrying the high-end at the moment and their prices are ridiculous from mid-to-high; here in Canada, a 2060 Super will cost the same, if not, more than the 5700 XT, a card that trades blows with the 2070 Super, and even the "cheapest" 2080 Super is well above $900. I guess there's a few Radeon VII cards that have yet to be sold but they're not exactly a bargain, let alone particularly great. Even adjusted for inflation, these cards are ludicrously expensive compared to previous mid-to-high range GPUs, for what is already looking to be the single-most expensive component in my next build, especially if the performance increase isn't as high as the rumors suggest they are for either manufacturer's respective next generation. It is the only major component that i'm holding off on buying int he coming weeks until the price goes down significantly or until the price is (somewhat) justified by the increase in performance.
So, i've started to buy certain parts for my next PC build...aside from the GPU. I don't have any intention of finalizing the GPU for the build until:
-We know what "Big Navi" real-world performance is like since that seems to be coming out sooner
-NVIDIA unveils something about its 3XXX lineup
Aside from the potential price drops for the current cards (the 2080 Super seems like it'll be solid for 1440p gaming at a high framerate for the next few years, which is what I plan to use the PC for along with heavy video editing but that price is...oof), i'd prefer not paying over $800 for a GPU but, looking at current prices, if the new cards are close to the current lineup from NVIDIA, they're going to be stupid expensive once again; NVIDIA is currently carrying the high-end at the moment and their prices are ridiculous from mid-to-high; here in Canada, a 2060 Super will cost the same, if not, more than the 5700 XT, a card that trades blows with the 2070 Super, and even the "cheapest" 2080 Super is well above $900. I guess there's a few Radeon VII cards that have yet to be sold but they're not exactly a bargain, let alone particularly great. Even adjusted for inflation, these cards are ludicrously expensive compared to previous mid-to-high range GPUs, for what is already looking to be the single-most expensive component in my next build, especially if the performance increase isn't as high as the rumors suggest they are for either manufacturer's respective next generation. It is the only major component that i'm holding off on buying int he coming weeks until the price goes down significantly or until the price is (somewhat) justified by the increase in performance.
Thank you.
And thank you.
I haven't built a PC since 2013, and even then I only have a cursory understanding of da computer partz. I'm looking for some guidance - I figure what I'm asking for might not be super do-able, but I'll take the closest I can get.
Ideally I'm looking for something Mini ITX that can handle the latest VR games as well as some moderate video rendering and editing. If I can, I'd like to avoid liquid cooling, and might just ditch the small form factor idea altogether if that's not feasible. I'd also like built in WiFi and Bluetooth.
My problem is that Pcpartpicker will only get me so far in terms of compatibility and size fitting, and not so much actual performance or longevity of parts (I have no understanding of what determines sufficient cooling for a CPU), and there are basically no guides that I can find that really inform what I'm specifically looking for.
Budget starts at around ~$1500 USD. This isn't something near-term at all, but I'm bored from all the self isolation and I figure it can't hurt to plan these things ahead somewhat.
Edit: Here's a mish mash of parts that look good to me, but I am a lost puppy in regards to power supply and cooling, even assuming that the rest of the parts make sense.
Ideally I'm looking for something Mini ITX that can handle the latest VR games as well as some moderate video rendering and editing. If I can, I'd like to avoid liquid cooling, and might just ditch the small form factor idea altogether if that's not feasible. I'd also like built in WiFi and Bluetooth.
My problem is that Pcpartpicker will only get me so far in terms of compatibility and size fitting, and not so much actual performance or longevity of parts (I have no understanding of what determines sufficient cooling for a CPU), and there are basically no guides that I can find that really inform what I'm specifically looking for.
Budget starts at around ~$1500 USD. This isn't something near-term at all, but I'm bored from all the self isolation and I figure it can't hurt to plan these things ahead somewhat.
Edit: Here's a mish mash of parts that look good to me, but I am a lost puppy in regards to power supply and cooling, even assuming that the rest of the parts make sense.
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If you're planning to go mid-high end with your build you simply may as well wait it out for now - IMO.
It seems we may be getting Nvidia news soon and with a new console launch on the horizon (+PC RDNA2 cards) I'd personally wait it out, if you can to ensure prices stabailise as well as features.
The next major PC game coming up is Cyberpunk later in the year (if you're interested in that) and if not, Death Stranding and Horzion ZD in the summer onwards, so its not as if there is a new Crysis-type game that requires mega power atm.
OP
OP
Just a quick warning for anyone who really wants to play Half Life: Alyx. There is no out of the box VR experience because on top of buying the computer, you still need to buy a VR headset system and the hand controllers. Valve has even admitted people will eventually mod in kbm controls, but for now, (1) it's a very expensive add to your PC ticket and (2) PS4 peripherals are not supported if you have those laying around. You can't just run the game for now and try the VR mode later. (If you know this already, cool, but a lot of people seem to think it's like buying RE7)
- Valve Index ($999 USD original MSRP)
- HTC Vive (Pro is veryyyy expensive)
- Occulus Quest ($399 USD)
- Occulus Rift S ($399 USD)
- Samsung Odyssey
Now in terms of what kind of system?
noob-noob Sure, you could use ibuypower, but it depends what kind of settings you want. The GTX 1660 will run VR of course, but not necessarily at a high resolution or frame rate. But if you reduce settings, sure.
Gundam The parts all make sense, but building your own ITX is complicated. Some cases need SFX power supplies, and cooling options are extremely limited. In fact the easiest solution right now is the NZXT H1, which does use an AIO water cooler for the CPU, but the cooler and PSU come pre fitted and installed, making it by far the easiest ITX build you can buy apart from a fully pre-build system (which they also do via their ltsbld service). I have no experience with the SG13 so hard to say if that video card fits (or the RAM?) Usually people who want to know what might fit do a combo of (a) youtube/google searching and (b) comparing specs by looking at the product pdf manuals online.
If you're not buying now, though, RTX 3000 is coming eventually. And end of the year may be Ryzen 4000. The X570 should hold up based on what we know so far, but if its a build for 6+ months from now you should in theory have better options coming.
Looking for a new GPU (which I'd imagine is the worst time to do it, but so it goes). Got a XFX 580 card at the moment, with a MSI B450-A PRO ATX motherboard and a Ryzen 2600. Got a maximum budget of £400- was looking at the 5700 XT sapphire pulse which just comes under that, but was wondering if there was any better deals or problems with the card I should know about. No strong preference between Nvidia and AMD cards. Going to be gaming at 1080p/60 but was potentially looking into a higher frame monitor in the future.
OP
OP
Worst time? Yeah, pretty much. Given your CPU, you'll take a performance hit with any higher end GPU, but the basic rule of thumb is that the GTX 1660 Super is the best value for 1080p right now. The 5700 XT (besides being more expensive) will obviously have longer legs if you upgrade your CPU later, but gets a bit more CPU capped too. Problem wise, AMD is still fighting driver issues. Some people have no issues, some go to reddit and complain endlessly. AMD did a major driver update this year, but the dust hasn't 100% settled yet and C19 has slowed down the software response. Still, you're right that it's going to give the most perf if you want high refresh gaming later. But if you're okay at 1080p, the Super is still considered a great option.
Yeah at 1080/60 I definitely don't think you need an upgrade right now. Hold off and do the monitor, CPU, and GPU all together once the new stuff is out toward the end of the year.
Thanks for your reply - I managed to get into my Rekordbox installation and ran the Backup library function, backing up everything to an external drive. Have installed Rekordbox on a newly aquired laptop and restored the library and everything is back 100% intact! Considering pretty much everything going to shit right now, this was a little ray of sunshine.
Is 2700x a better buy than 3600x right now? 2700x has more cores but 3600x has better single-core performance. My budget won't go further than these two. I'm on a 1600 @3.8GHz right now. Need something reasonable for next-gen. Waiting for the 4000 series is not an option either. Prices will be mega inflated at launch over here, and even later on, given our economic situation, who knows.
And for the Quest, probably adding the cost of a cable (somewhere from $15 up to $79 if you want the official Link cable). Playing wirelessly via the Virtual Desktop ($14) may be an option, but a Link cable seems to be the optimal setup.
The ultimate Half-Life VR hardware guide, from frugal to fantastic
What does it take to get the best VR adventure yet running in your own home?
arstechnica.com
A recommendation from me would be to avoid itx cases that put the power supply on top of the motherboard. That's what the SG13 does, so you are limiting yourself to low profile coolers for the 3700X.
The clearance is so low in fact (61mm) , that the Wraith Prism stock cooler would not fit if you have a regular ATX PSU.
Since you mentioned that you prefer to avoid AIOs, then I think you would welcome the ability to choose more variety of air coolers than what the SG13 gives you.
Putting the PSU elsewhere results in bigger or longer cases, but you can still have something that is smaller than MATX.
Some examples:
Lian Li TU 150 (requires SFX PSU)
Fractal Dedsign Node 304
Thermaltake V1
Metallic Gear Neo Mini
NZXT H210
All of those would fit a 155mm air cooler like the Scythe Fuma 2, a couple of those like the thermaltake and NZXT fit a Noctua NH D15.
OK...posted to the previous thread earlier this year, but I'm finally moving forward on this.
This is what I've put together so far....and it's overkill. Only problem is that I don't know what areas I'm overkilling the most (that is, where should I dial it back a bit). Or, what should I just completely avoid.
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor[
MB: ASRock X570M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard
RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
HD: 2x Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB Video Card
Case: be quiet! Silent Base 601 ATX Mid Tower Case
PS: Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Yes, I know I have two M.2 drives, I might drop that down to one, but I'm already reaching storage issues with a little over 1.5T.
Oh, and to answer the questions in the OP:
What's your budget and currency?
Technically no limit, but what I've chosen so far looks to be about $2k. Was hoping to aim for about $1500
What do you want to use the computer for?
This would replace my primary computer. Gets used for Photoshop a lot, and creating presentations (not too much video work, but a lot of audio)...
As for gaming, nothing too intensive (MTGA, Parkitect, etc) though I have been planning on getting back to Witcher 3, which can be taxing.
When do you plan to purchase the parts and build it?
Now...seems I have a lot of free time on my hands...
Are you reusing any parts or are you building a completely new computer?
Probably starting from scratch. I might be using my current PS.
Do you only need the computer itself or do you need accessories, such as a monitor, mouse, keyboard, and speakers?
just the computer
Do you want to overclock?
nope
This is what I've put together so far....and it's overkill. Only problem is that I don't know what areas I'm overkilling the most (that is, where should I dial it back a bit). Or, what should I just completely avoid.
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor[
MB: ASRock X570M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard
RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
HD: 2x Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB Video Card
Case: be quiet! Silent Base 601 ATX Mid Tower Case
PS: Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Yes, I know I have two M.2 drives, I might drop that down to one, but I'm already reaching storage issues with a little over 1.5T.
Oh, and to answer the questions in the OP:
What's your budget and currency?
Technically no limit, but what I've chosen so far looks to be about $2k. Was hoping to aim for about $1500
What do you want to use the computer for?
This would replace my primary computer. Gets used for Photoshop a lot, and creating presentations (not too much video work, but a lot of audio)...
As for gaming, nothing too intensive (MTGA, Parkitect, etc) though I have been planning on getting back to Witcher 3, which can be taxing.
When do you plan to purchase the parts and build it?
Now...seems I have a lot of free time on my hands...
Are you reusing any parts or are you building a completely new computer?
Probably starting from scratch. I might be using my current PS.
Do you only need the computer itself or do you need accessories, such as a monitor, mouse, keyboard, and speakers?
just the computer
Do you want to overclock?
nope
I take it by the statement reasonable for next-gen this is a gaming rig mainly?
In that case from the CPU side the 3600X eats the 2700X on pretty much any game with a good cooler and ram the gap just grows.
If you want to save yourself a few bucks buy the 3600 non X it too scores better than the 2700X in gaming applications.
Thanks. Just thought because the next gen consoles are going to be 8 core, it might be a good idea to go for 2700x instead.
The 5700 / XT perf is good right now (drivers less so..) but it's not gonna age well.
Zero DX12 Ultimate feature supported.
Next gen consoles HAVE 8 cores but they wont actually use 8 cores for gaming.
Dun worry about the R5 should glide you through the generation as long as you arent hunting 200fps.
I actually found this deal which looks better to me
NZXT BLD | Custom Gaming PC Builder
Build a custom gaming PC with the NZXT BLD Service.
www.letsbld.com
I understand that this setup isn't top of the line for VR but it's already a pretty big investment for a single game so I'm trying to save where I can. Based on the specs for the rig above what kind of resolution and fps do you think I will get for HL: ALyx? Do VR games require a certain resolution cutoff or fps in order to feel smooth during gameplay? Also if you were to upgrade a single part from that rig what would you go after to get the best boost in performance? I'm assuming the graphics card but I'm way out of my depth here.
A 10 year old PC is not likely to have an i3 processor in it (unless it was one of the first one Intel Core series), and the 5xxx series was several years later.
I built a simple office PC for my dad in the 2013 time frame with an i3 processor and it still runs great today...HOWEVER, when I visited this past holiday season I noticed it was running really slow. So we replace the mechanical hard drive with a similar size SSD. But I noticed that, while faster, it was still slower than it should have been. Turns out, the CPU was overheating due to the amount of dust on the heatsink. We bought some canned air and blew all the dust off. THEN, finally, the computer was fast as an SSD computer should be.
So what I'm trying to say is maybe your father in law just needs the mechanical hard drive replaced with an SSD and make sure that the CPU isn't over heating.
- For gaming you don't need more than more than 16GB of RAM, but if you know your work software can benefit, then keep it.
- Since the Samsung 970 EVOs are so expensive, one area to save money is to go for Adata SX8200 Pros instead, they are excellent.
- Any reason why you are going with a Micro -ATX board and a Mid Tower ATX case? There are ATX boards that are cheaper than the Asrock X570M Pro4 and are just as feature rich, like the TUF GAMING X570-Plus and the ASUS Prime X570-P.
- There is a newer and a bit smaller be quiet case that goes for $80 called the Pure Base 500, which is also a silence oriented chassis if you want to save some bucks on the the Pure base 600. Mid towers around $90 are perfectly capable to accommodate most people's needs.
Completely forgot about that. :/ I would hold off from AMD then until they announce support for it.