Awesome thanks, it looks like there are holes to mount 2.5" drives. Do SSDs usually come with screws or will I need to order some with the drive?
Edit: nvmind, says screws not included. Sorry I am very new to this lol.
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The PC Builders Thread (aka I need a new PC)
- Thread starter Celcius
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Edit: nvmind, says screws not included. Sorry I am very new to this lol.
Ah, maybe it did, I bought it pre built, but there is a box with some stuff in it that came with it. I'll check later, thanks!
Can't wait to see how much of an improvement an SSD will make.
Coming from an HDD? Be ready for a big grin on your face :)
$176 for 16GB 3333mhz CL16. What's the catch here?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCWQBQQ/?tag=era0f0-20
I was originally gonna go for 3200mhz CL4 ram for $220
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820232217
That's a hell of a difference in price there. What should I do?
Edit: Hope it holds its price until I get paid >_>
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCWQBQQ/?tag=era0f0-20
I was originally gonna go for 3200mhz CL4 ram for $220
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820232217
That's a hell of a difference in price there. What should I do?
Edit: Hope it holds its price until I get paid >_>
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Shows Up as $268 for me... So maybe it was just a price error. Nothing wrong with it, next time smash that buy button ;)
Same here. Holy fuck it's moving fast. Is it advisable to go with 8gb right now to get a new build up and hang out for a drop in the future considering most games do ok on 8gb right now?
It's also insane considering my wife got in on that EVGA laptop before Xmas and it has 32gb ram 1070 and i7 17in 4k gsync for 1200. Might make that back just selling the ram.
That sounds like an awesome deal for a gaming laptop tbh. BUT chances are high that the ram inside of it can't be used in a normal desktop in the first place. Laptops use a tiny bit different kind of ram modules, at least the last time I opened one.
Does this double as the troubleshoot thread?
I have a problem. Old reliable just froze upon wake, had to manual shut down. When turning back on, it runs briefly with lights, fan, even disc drive can open, but no display, and it shuts down in a few seconds. It repeated this cycle, turn on, few seconds, turn off, by itself, no display, until I turned off the psu.
What happened? Things were going so well between us.... The parts are all old, mind you. Everything but the case is over 6 years old, but it ran great, no issues.
Any help would be appreciated.
This is such an annoying time for this. I have a baby now and am moving in a couple weeks.
I have a problem. Old reliable just froze upon wake, had to manual shut down. When turning back on, it runs briefly with lights, fan, even disc drive can open, but no display, and it shuts down in a few seconds. It repeated this cycle, turn on, few seconds, turn off, by itself, no display, until I turned off the psu.
What happened? Things were going so well between us.... The parts are all old, mind you. Everything but the case is over 6 years old, but it ran great, no issues.
Any help would be appreciated.
This is such an annoying time for this. I have a baby now and am moving in a couple weeks.
Hey pc Era, I'd love a little advice on the direction I should take with my new computer. First, a little background..... My 8 year old pc died this week and I'm looking to replace it with a proper gaming computer. I built my last one when I was a student, but it was a budget rig that was never really able to play the newest stuff even at the time. I'd like to use this as an opportunity to make the jump to pc gaming for some things (multiplayer games and PC exclusives), and I want to build something that's going to cover me for quite a few years. From what I've seen (such as these two builds from the OP), I can build an excellent gaming pc for $1.5k or less, so long as I'm not interested in pursuing 4k.
As a console primary gamer, my first thought is to get a pc that will crush 1080p for any game at ultra settings for the next few years. However, it seems like 1440p is gaining a lot of traction in the pc world so is that the standard I should be aiming for as I work on my build? I know that a lot of people are moving towards 4k, but that still seems prohibitively expensive in terms of the power required and the need for a 4k monitor. I'd much rather go with 1080 or 1440 and a nice g-sync or free-sync setup.
With all that said, here's my questions:
1) Should I be targeting 1440p instead of high end, 1080p performance for a new rig if I want it to last for years?
2) Am I better off waiting for new video cards to be announced so that the older ones like a 1070 or a 1080 are cheaper?
3) Am I a fool for ignoring the rise of 4k and should I just bite the bullet and build a 4k capable rig, or wait for 4k hardware to drop in price some, because that's the direction everything is headed towards?
As a console primary gamer, my first thought is to get a pc that will crush 1080p for any game at ultra settings for the next few years. However, it seems like 1440p is gaining a lot of traction in the pc world so is that the standard I should be aiming for as I work on my build? I know that a lot of people are moving towards 4k, but that still seems prohibitively expensive in terms of the power required and the need for a 4k monitor. I'd much rather go with 1080 or 1440 and a nice g-sync or free-sync setup.
With all that said, here's my questions:
1) Should I be targeting 1440p instead of high end, 1080p performance for a new rig if I want it to last for years?
2) Am I better off waiting for new video cards to be announced so that the older ones like a 1070 or a 1080 are cheaper?
3) Am I a fool for ignoring the rise of 4k and should I just bite the bullet and build a 4k capable rig, or wait for 4k hardware to drop in price some, because that's the direction everything is headed towards?
A lot of things can happen in six years, sometimes owners and their PCs just drift apart. If it's not meant to be, it's just not meant to be, there are plenty of ram modules out in the sea.
Jokes aside: If it shuts down after a couple of seconds it could be because of an overheating CPU. Just check if the CPU fan is spinning, dust it off and check if thermal paste needs to be reapplied.
Just my personal thoughts:
1.) 1440p is great and a good intermediate step before 4k, but a GTX 1070 @ 1080p will of course last you longer then @ 1440p. If longevity is your main goal, 1080p does make more sense. But it's probably only going to be 1-2 more years.
2.) Waiting makes sense if you plan to buy one of the new generation GPUs and not to be able to get "old" stuff cheaper imo. Is it worth waiting for the new nvidia cards? From a longevity and price/performance aspect: most probably. But current GPU prices are already inflated because of the mining craze, I expect new nvidia gpus (should arrive around spring 2018) to be sold out, have even more inflated prices or both. But maybe we will be lucky and the mining craze will be over till then (not likely)
3.) 4k gaming is great, but even a 1080Ti isn't good enough for 4k/60 in many AAA games (at higher settings). In other words: 4k is a nightmare from a "I want my PC to last as long as possible" viewpoint, no matter how much money you throw at the initial build. You'll have to update sooner then later. If you want to go down the 4k route, I'd recommend waiting for new GPUs (at this point).
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What are the best options for a gaming CPU right now? Price/Performance and just raw performance. My 3570k really needs an upgrade. I'm a bit worried about Intel with all the news going on at the moment, plus they tend to change socket type as often as I change socks which makes upgrading in the future expensive, whereas AMD are committed for a few years I read, but then Ryzen doesn't play nice with higher speed DDR4 apparently and seems to be under Intel in most gaming benchmarks. I'm just trying to think of a build to get the best bang for my buck as a new PC is a huge expense to me, so I can't fuck it up. My goal is 1080p/144Hz (or at least that 100 - 144Hz sweet spot) in modern games. I'm pretty much sold on a GTX 1070ti or 1080 (whichever has a good sale first) but I can't decide on the "guts".
I very much second this question. I'm fairly certain my CPU is going, and the complexity of the current CPU market is baffling me.
Yeah there seems to be a ton of options now, it's not just can I afford the i7 or shall I settle for the i5 like the last time I bought a PC (spoiler, I had to settle).
Ha, same. When I built my first PC 6 years or so ago, AMD wasn't really a realistic option of a CPU. Not good for competition obviously, but certainly made things easier.
Now, with AMD being a realistic option, it introduces all this complexity with AM4 motherboards and RAM speed that I just struggle to wrap my head around. But, I don't want to just jump back to Intel because I just don't feel like the value is there like it once was.
Actually, Ryzen prefers higher speed DDR4 with low CAS latency for best performance, though ideally the memory die should be Samsung B-Die (so you'd be limited to G.Skill Trident Z and Ripjaws V, specifically those with a frequency of around 3200 Mhz with a latency of 14).
Anyways, if you plan to keep your CPU for a long time, the fact that you would need to replace your motherboard for Intel CPUs is moot anyways, as after 3-4 years I imagine even AMD would put out a new socket.
Now, Intel CPUs remain superior for gaming, and the Meltdown patch has little impact gaming (but it's a valid concern to have). I'd say it's best to look at what you will do with the computer. If you plan to edit videos, then AMD CPUs are better, but if you plan to only game, Intel CPUs would be better, as the 8700k is right now unequaled. Budget-wise, AMD has cheaper motherboards right now (as only Z370 motherboards are avaialble for Coffee Lake currently), but Intel CPUs are less choosy as far as ram go (you can go with a 2666 Mhz one and it won't perform much differently than a 3200 Mhz one), and ram prices are stupidly expensive right now.
Anyways, for an estimated budget of $1500, I would look at an i5-8400/i5-8600k (ideally the latter, as it can be overclocked for better longevity) or a Ryzen 1600/Ryzen 1700.
The 8600k looks solid, it's nearly half the price of the 8700k and from the benchmarks I'm looking at there's virtually no difference in FPS.
Are there any good, cheap, i5-8400 builds around? I want to upgrade my CPU, but it being an AMD FX-6300 means I will practically need an entirely new PC.
Already have:
GPU (GTX 1060)
SSD + HDD
Budget is around $600
Edit: Found an already made build. Removed stuff I don't need. Does this look good?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Qdc4Fd
Already have:
GPU (GTX 1060)
SSD + HDD
Budget is around $600
Edit: Found an already made build. Removed stuff I don't need. Does this look good?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Qdc4Fd
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I put this together, this is pretty much what I want but it's damn expensive, if I could shave £200 off it would be great, but I don't think it's possible without performance shitting the bed? https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/GPL4Fd
Good shout, the 650W EVGA is only £83 on Amazon, so that's about £50 saved.
Yeah I don't see any issues with it.
You can pick this CPU cooler, as it's cheaper and there won't be much of a performance difference:
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/VRPfrH/arctic-cooling-cpu-cooler-freezer7prorev2
This motherboard is cheaper and has most features you need (though I don't know which features you're looking for):
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/4hnG3C/msi-z370-pc-pro-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z370-pc-pro
You can replace the ram by one of these two, Intel CPUs are less demanding in terms of ram speed:
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product...16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-2666-memory-hx426c16fb2k216
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/J27CmG/corsair-memory-cmk16gx4m2a2666c16
You can pick this PSU instead:
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product...certified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-bn278
Saves you about £160 in total, though I'd look at getting a SSD.
Cheers, thankfully I already have a Samsung 850 EVO 500GB! :D
As for mobo features, just decent overclocking really, nothing too fancy.
All the Z370 boards allow overclocking, which is why they're also somewhat expensive. In any case, this MSI board also has a USB 3.1 v2 port just in case.
How does this look?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor (£186.36 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC - Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 45.0 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler (£17.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk)
Motherboard: MSI - Z370 PC PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£107.48 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory (£167.99 @ Aria PC)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£37.50 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8GB Video Card (£419.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Corsair - 200R ATX Mid Tower Case (£55.79 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: be quiet! - Pure Power 10 CM 600W 80+ Silver Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£69.97 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1063.07
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-01-10 21:00 GMT+0000
I would have but I need to wait a few days until I get paid ;_;
You know I really didn't want to go for such "slow" RAM, but after looking at these benchmarks it makes 1fps difference going to 3200MHz so it's obviously not worth the price. The board looks nice too. I'm really considering order some stuff tonight but need to think it over, it's a lot of money to me. Thanks for the continued help though! https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews..._Memory_Performance_Benchmark_Analysis/9.html
Yeah as I previously mentioned Intel's CPUs are much less influenced by ram frequency than AMD's.
For a UK PSU right now I'd get the RM550x instead: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/3zNypg/corsair-power-supply-cp9020090na
It's £7 more but gold instead of silver, has a ten year warranty instead of three, has a better and quieter fan, is generally well reviewed. There's also the TX550M or TX650M for even cheaper options.
Balls, I just checked your link and the CPU is showing £183 but it's actually £247 and also out of stock, PCPP isn't updated it seems.
Hey guys, will most likely be building a PC in the next few months and I need some advice. I want something for gaming BUT I also do graphic design/video editing work and that's where I'm stumped. Do I get an i7 or i5? I know the i7 will help a lot with the rendering and all that, but I also want to save as much as I can. I'm not dead set on high end gaming (yet) so I'm not even looking at a gpu since I might take a 1060 off someones hands in a couple of months. I use a laptop at the moment which isn't the best but it gets the job done for early 2010 games and such. What should I look at to be happy for now and maybe next year beef up the GPU. My budget would be at least $700 and upwards to barely over 1K at the most.
It was updated one hour ago, so it's more likely that you got beaten because £186 was a very good price for a 8600k.
For video editing it's better to get an AMD Ryzen CPU, because these have a higher count of cores. For $700 without GPU I'd look at a Ryzen 1400 or 1600 (it'll mainly depend on ram prices).
I just realised I have this cooler, it'll fit the new build. My question is, will the current screws/bracket work for 1151? I currently have 1155. I don't think I remember where the other ones went.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FSMWFQG/?tag=e100-21
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FSMWFQG/?tag=e100-21
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071R9Z77W/?tag=era0f0-20
Link goes to - EVGA 650 B3
Moving on from a 2500k to an 8000 series chip with a gtx1080 mainly for oculus and streaming. Anyone see any issues with this power supply or have a better recommendation? Probably starting with 8gb of ram if that matters. I have read around a few places and the amazon reviews look good but wondering if there is something I am missing here. Finished build will be driving the 1080(maybe 1080ti soon) i5 8600k, 8gb ram, ssd and 2 hd 1tb drives.
I have a 550w supply right now and it runs it all but I am not sure the TI and the newer i5 will be ok too.
Link goes to - EVGA 650 B3
Moving on from a 2500k to an 8000 series chip with a gtx1080 mainly for oculus and streaming. Anyone see any issues with this power supply or have a better recommendation? Probably starting with 8gb of ram if that matters. I have read around a few places and the amazon reviews look good but wondering if there is something I am missing here. Finished build will be driving the 1080(maybe 1080ti soon) i5 8600k, 8gb ram, ssd and 2 hd 1tb drives.
I have a 550w supply right now and it runs it all but I am not sure the TI and the newer i5 will be ok too.
Wow, price fluctuations on PC parts can be pretty crazy apparently. I've been eyeing the $2k build in the OP, kind of watching prices since I still have a few weeks before I begin ordering parts and in just a couple days I've seen that one build go from around $2000 to just about $2500. Seems like the price hike was in the video card and many other 1080 Ti variants are out of stock currently.
It's not till February but does the Chinese New Year effect part stock? wouldn't really surprise me since it always seems to effect vaping equipment as a lot of it is made in China.
It's not till February but does the Chinese New Year effect part stock? wouldn't really surprise me since it always seems to effect vaping equipment as a lot of it is made in China.
OP
OP
Here's a review for the 750 watt version: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=526
but the 650 watt version should be just as good as far as quality.
Nvidia recommends a 600 watt minimum psu for the 1080 Ti: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/products/10series/geforce-gtx-1080-ti/ (assuming not overclocked)
As you can see here: https://www.anandtech.com/show/11180/the-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-review/16 the 1080 Ti consumes a good deal more power under load than a 1080.
If you plan you overclock your cpu or videocard than that will add to power consumption as well.
When you upgrade the rest of your system I'd recommend also upgrading the power supply.
If all else fails try to unplug the computer from the wall and remove the battery from the motherboard, wait a minute or two, then put the battery back in, plug it back into the wall and see if it boots up.
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Please don't with 8GB RAM on this kind of a system, unless you just wanna wait a couple months in case RAM gets cheaper.
The PSU is okay. Your 550W would also be fine assuming it's a decent one and not too old. 650W is already a waste on the 1080 and still has lots of room for the Ti, even if overclocking both CPU and GPU.
I can do 16gb now no problem it's just I don't want to waste the cash if it is going to drop. Currently i have ddr3 8gb in 4 2gb sticks and it never really maxes this 2500k build from years ago. Ultimately I want 32 or the option for the in the future so if I start at 8 that is an option if I find a deal or the price finally falls.
So I ordered a samsung SSD, it's coming tmrw and I'm very stoked. Opened my case up last night just to check cables and stuff, and it led me to another question.
In my Corsair 900D tower, the hard drive bays are "hot swap" and there are cables in the bays that are one connector with Sata data and sata power combined. Can I just mount my SSD and plug it into one of those? It seems the easiest way to go, but I've read other things saying not to use SSDs in hoy swap bays. I'm basically not even really sure what any of that means.
In my Corsair 900D tower, the hard drive bays are "hot swap" and there are cables in the bays that are one connector with Sata data and sata power combined. Can I just mount my SSD and plug it into one of those? It seems the easiest way to go, but I've read other things saying not to use SSDs in hoy swap bays. I'm basically not even really sure what any of that means.
Just did my first build and noticed something. I was going to add two more fans to the case (Fractal Design Focus G) but my motherboard (Asus Prime B350 Plus) has only two fan connectors. Is it possible to add the two extra fans somehow?
Of course, you can either use an adapter that lets you plug in fans directly into your PSU or you can use a 1 --> 2 converter that allows you to plug in two fans into one mb connector. Personally I prefer method 1, but you can't regulate the fan speed that way. Which isn't a big deal for case fans anyway, imo. Only use the 1-2 converter on case fan connectors and leave the dedicated CPU connector alone. if you decide to go along with that route.
Out of the blue, I can't think of a single reason why a SSD shouldn't be used in a hot swap bay, if mounted correctly (and screwed in).
Is there any indication it's going to drop ? It was already overpriced back in October when I upgraded, but looking today at the same store I bought it, it went from 180€ to 270€ (16GB Ripjaws 3200 CL14). Even if they were to increase manufacturing capacity, it will probably take a while before the price goes down and could even rise in the coming months. Between that and GPU prices it has never looked so bad a time to upgrade your PC.
I assume your case stands steady on its feet? Literally had to place sticky notes under a foot so the case doesn't wobble. I'm fine with it though, I'll gladly take it over hardware issues.
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