On X, if you ever wanted to disable HDR, it needs to be done in the console settings. Whereas with PS4 you can control it within game. Sort of annoying, but I blame RDR for that...only time I've disabled HDR in my X.
-
Ever wanted an RSS feed of all your favorite gaming news sites? Go check out our new Gaming Headlines feed! Read more about it here.
-
We have made minor adjustments to how the search bar works on ResetEra. You can read about the changes here.
On X, if you ever wanted to disable HDR, it needs to be done in the console settings. Whereas with PS4 you can control it within game. Sort of annoying, but I blame RDR for that...only time I've disabled HDR in my X.
Keep in mind that if you want a real HDR experience, you will have to go a model or even a few models higher than the Samsung 7 series. The 7 series are great budget 4k TVs, but the area where it cut costs the most is HDR. That TV simply doesn't get bright enough for an LCD screen to have a proper HDR range, and also has no wide color gamut.
If you want HDR at a decent price, the best deal you can get is the TCL R615 or R617, where you can find the 55" for around $500-600 and 65" for $800-999. You're paying budget prices for a real FALD LCD that competes with TVs double its price.
If you want to stay with a Samsung, their entry level "real" HDR TVs are the NU8000 and Q6FN, but honestly those TVs are just not worth it if you have the TCL 6 series as an option. They both will have pretty bad blacks and contrast, because they are edge lit LCDs and some level of light bleed is just inevitable with those.
If they get the NU7100 they may want to disable HDR because all that TV is going to do is blow up the brightness destroying the already poor black levels of an edge lit LCD. I used to have a KU6300 and had to disable HDR at the system level on my PS4 Pro because it just made the picture terrible, like its actually detrimental to the overall picture quality on an LCD that only goes to like 300-400 nits.
Last edited:
Oh, wow...I just looked it up and the R615 is cheaper than the Samsung models I was looking at. I'll see if I can find it at a store somewhere, since for reasons I can't get into, I won't be able to do online shopping for the time being. Thanks for the tip!
Edit: I'll be upgrading from an old non-smart 1080p TV, so I'm sure whatever budget model I go with will be a huge upgrade from what I have now, in any case.
I just got a C8 and honestly if I could have bought a 4K plasma - I would have. PQ is ridiculous but motion still leaves something to be desired. I guess nothing yet competes with plasma (RIP CRTs) in that regard.
No problem!
A lot of people ignore the TCL 6 series because they don't know the brand, but its a TV that can match mid range TVs like the Sony X900F and Samsung Q8FN for a fraction of the price.
Of course some things have to give, and the TV won't have as good upscaling (think DVD content 480p or cable content 720p) as a Sony or Samsung, and you may have a higher chance of getting a bad panel (the actual chance of this happening is low, just a bit higher than the premium brand names), just make sure the store you buy it from has a nice return policy (like best buy) and you're gold!
While waiting for the C8, I watched another animated 3D movie on my E6 and it is so beautiful to watch :*(. No I secretly hope that there is no revival of 3D content for TVs in the near future.
And if anyone wants to know: 3D for me is not only about the image that pops out, but the overall depth of the movie, so nice.
And if anyone wants to know: 3D for me is not only about the image that pops out, but the overall depth of the movie, so nice.
I absolutely love the automatic game mode on the Q9FN but it's too bad it doesn't recognize when a app is being used or when a game has started. When I fire up a game on my X it says game mode activated and back on the dashboard it says deactivated. But when I then open Netflix, Crunchyroll, Prime etc it activates game mode again. I can't change this, can I?
If you have any questions about the 6 series let me know I have had it for 4 weeks now.
Last edited:
A bit unrelated, but have you checked the Philips OLEDs? Apparently those are really good too, but I think it will be even harder to find impressions from actual owners of those.
I *think* the stuttering has been improved massively and is now limited to 4K disc, although I might have heard wrong. I ummed and arred about picking up a Panasonic this weekend but I read only two of the HDMI ports are full-fat HDMI spec which rules it out for me as I don't want to upgrade my amp yet so need 4.
I've had my B7A since March, but it recently started to have some weird behavior when it comes to recognizing input 2 vs input 4 on my TV.
The way I have it set up is as such:
Input 1 - PS4 Pro, directly plugged in
Input 2 - I'm using this for ARC to my LG SJ9 soundbar; my UHD Blu-Ray player is plugged into the SJ9's HDMI in so routes its signal THROUGH the soundbar back to Input 2
Input 3 - Xbox One X, directly plugged in
Input 4 - Nintendo Switch, directly plugged in
Now, input 2 and input 4 are the inputs in questions. Any time I turn on my Switch from Input 4, it turns on my UHD player as well and it "takes over" when it turns on and switches to input 2, the UHD player. I don't know why the UHD player wants to turn on any time I turn on my Switch, but this happens almost every time.
Now, I just had a problem yesterday where my TV no longer recognized input 2 for anything other than its ARC out from the TV to the soundbar -- it no longer recognized the UHD player that was routing through my soundbar. Powering on my UHD player, it automatically switched the TV to Input 4, but that returned a No Signal response as that's where my Switch is plugged on, and my Switch was not on and not producing a signal -- makes perfect sense that there was a No Signal response. Switching to Input 2 manually turned up a No Signal response as well.
At first, I thought it I was my TV that was causing this problem, so I factory reset it and then spent an hour and a half reconfiguring all my settings. It didn't fix the issue.
Then I unplugged both the sound bar and the UHD player, but I unplugged both at once and then replugged them in. The problem was fixed and my UHD player was reporting a signal from input 2 once again, but it restored the issue where turning on the Switch also turned on the UHD player. So once again, any time I turn on my Switch at input 4, my UHD player also turns on, then automatically switches to input 2 to display it.
Anyone know why this is happening? Anything that can be done to prevent it?
My two theories are:
1) The ARC signal from input 2 or the soundbar itself interpret input 2 and 4 as the same source.
2) The IR signal that's on most Switch controllers is telling the UHD player to turn on, and since the UHD player is also an LG product it communicates via Simplink to take precedence. I have tried blocking the IR signal or turning it away when I turn the Switch on and it still happens.
The way I have it set up is as such:
Input 1 - PS4 Pro, directly plugged in
Input 2 - I'm using this for ARC to my LG SJ9 soundbar; my UHD Blu-Ray player is plugged into the SJ9's HDMI in so routes its signal THROUGH the soundbar back to Input 2
Input 3 - Xbox One X, directly plugged in
Input 4 - Nintendo Switch, directly plugged in
Now, input 2 and input 4 are the inputs in questions. Any time I turn on my Switch from Input 4, it turns on my UHD player as well and it "takes over" when it turns on and switches to input 2, the UHD player. I don't know why the UHD player wants to turn on any time I turn on my Switch, but this happens almost every time.
Now, I just had a problem yesterday where my TV no longer recognized input 2 for anything other than its ARC out from the TV to the soundbar -- it no longer recognized the UHD player that was routing through my soundbar. Powering on my UHD player, it automatically switched the TV to Input 4, but that returned a No Signal response as that's where my Switch is plugged on, and my Switch was not on and not producing a signal -- makes perfect sense that there was a No Signal response. Switching to Input 2 manually turned up a No Signal response as well.
At first, I thought it I was my TV that was causing this problem, so I factory reset it and then spent an hour and a half reconfiguring all my settings. It didn't fix the issue.
Then I unplugged both the sound bar and the UHD player, but I unplugged both at once and then replugged them in. The problem was fixed and my UHD player was reporting a signal from input 2 once again, but it restored the issue where turning on the Switch also turned on the UHD player. So once again, any time I turn on my Switch at input 4, my UHD player also turns on, then automatically switches to input 2 to display it.
Anyone know why this is happening? Anything that can be done to prevent it?
My two theories are:
1) The ARC signal from input 2 or the soundbar itself interpret input 2 and 4 as the same source.
2) The IR signal that's on most Switch controllers is telling the UHD player to turn on, and since the UHD player is also an LG product it communicates via Simplink to take precedence. I have tried blocking the IR signal or turning it away when I turn the Switch on and it still happens.
No, I haven't. I might take a closer look at Philips if Panasonic turns out to be a no-go (LG and Sony already ruled out), but the general quality of Panasonic TVs (and their colour accuracy) is appealing.
Yeah, it seems to have been improved with a couple of FW updates, but apparantly there's still some left.
That's too bad. Are you picking up a different OLED set instead?
I've had my LGC8 for a while now. I always watch pretty varied content, so I'm never too worried about burn in with one exception. I used to quite often fire up YouTube and stick on a game soundtrack. Which of course is generally accompanied by a static image on the screen for a long time. Anyone in the same boat do something different now? Looking for alternatives.
Brought some footage on a USB stick and went to a retailer to take a look at the Panasonic FZ800.
I have to admit, I didn't expect it to look that good. Much better colours, shadow detail and image depth than my LG C7 (professionally calibrated), which I sold last week. Really, really tempted now.
I have to admit, I didn't expect it to look that good. Much better colours, shadow detail and image depth than my LG C7 (professionally calibrated), which I sold last week. Really, really tempted now.
Had my AF8 65" for three days now, and yea Bumrush I got used to it pretty fast. Wall-mounting helped a lot in making it seem like a part of the room for me, instead of this big black rectangle just being there.
I've had the pleasure of seeing John Wick, Coco, Wall-E, God of War, Spider-Man, Horizon. Super Mario Party and some Seinfeld on it over the weekend. Everything has been quite nice.
Now I just need to get the rest of my living room back together, sell my old tv and find some place for that giant box it came in.
I've had the pleasure of seeing John Wick, Coco, Wall-E, God of War, Spider-Man, Horizon. Super Mario Party and some Seinfeld on it over the weekend. Everything has been quite nice.
Now I just need to get the rest of my living room back together, sell my old tv and find some place for that giant box it came in.
Why not just use something like Chromecast to send audio directly to your sound system?
I was under the impression that stuttering is always going to be present on OLEDs because of their instant response times. Not sure what can be done about it (BFI helps but also causes judder and reduces brightness - so it's a trade-off).
That's judder and, as you said, present on all OLEDs. Stutter, however, is not normal, and is a "glitch", where a frame is sometimes left out, which introduces a visible stutter in motion.
I was going by the RTINGS definition. I wasn't aware there was a different definition of the phenomenon.
OP
OP
Had my AF8 65" for three days now, and yea Bumrush I got used to it pretty fast. Wall-mounting helped a lot in making it seem like a part of the room for me, instead of this big black rectangle just being there.
I've had the pleasure of seeing John Wick, Coco, Wall-E, God of War, Spider-Man, Horizon. Super Mario Party and some Seinfeld on it over the weekend. Everything has been quite nice.
Now I just need to get the rest of my living room back together, sell my old tv and find some place for that giant box it came in.
Gorgeous setup, my man!!
How much were you able to get for the C7? That totally lessens the blow of buying another TV so soon for you.
And yea, there's a reason the Panasonic wins the shootouts over LG.
Had my AF8 65" for three days now, and yea Bumrush I got used to it pretty fast. Wall-mounting helped a lot in making it seem like a part of the room for me, instead of this big black rectangle just being there.
I've had the pleasure of seeing John Wick, Coco, Wall-E, God of War, Spider-Man, Horizon. Super Mario Party and some Seinfeld on it over the weekend. Everything has been quite nice.
Now I just need to get the rest of my living room back together, sell my old tv and find some place for that giant box it came in.
Fantastic looking set up, grats!
I have to say the C8 is a beast! 55 inches is the right size for my room and wall setup I've done. Calibrated it reasonably well, I am still getting use to HDR (I've heard most games don't do it right?) but god the colors/lighting's beautiful.
Lovely TV. I am set for many years!
Lovely TV. I am set for many years!
It actually looks like they've confused the two. Judder is consistent and completely normal on sample-and-hold displays, while stutter is not.
Either way, the two are separate and I've seen some mentions of stutter on the Panasonic OLEDs. Didn't see it in-store today, though, so it might not be as big a problem as some forumers claim it is.
I'm from Norway, but I bought the C7 on BF last year for ~ $1510 and sold it last week for ~ $1280.
Bought a XE90 for cheap, but I'll return it. Great TV for the price, with great contrast, colours and motion, but I can't stand the blooming. Worth a try, though.
I'm done with LG OLEDs after owning four of them. I was tempted by the Sony AF8, but the dimming issue makes it a no-go, so it looks like a Panasonic would be the best choice for me. Very happy with what I saw of it in the store today. Professional picture mode looked stunning.
Question for fellow OLED owners.
I'm trying to get my B7 to run in 4:4:4 chroma in PC input mode from my GTX 1070 but the screen keeps flickering black. It will turn black for a moment before going back to normal and seems to do this every 30 seconds to a minute or so. At first I thought this was my HDMI cable but I recently bought a HDMI 2.0 cable (2.5m long) which is supposed to be 4K certified. Is it possible that despite being HDMI 2.0, the cable is poor quality?
I've been fiddling with settings and only YCbCr420 seems to work perfectly. RGB, 444 and 422 all have flickering issues.
EDIT: Okay so I tested the HDMI cable that came with my PS4 Pro and all the flickering issues are gone. The one I bought recently is obviously not fast enough to output in RGB, 444 or 422. Serves me right for cheaping out. I'm still a little pissed though because the seller claimed it to be a "high speed" cable.
This leads me to my next question, there are slightly more expensive HDMI cables on ebay that are rated for a speed of 18.0Gbps. Is this what I should be buying? This is what I'm looking at right now.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4K-Ultr...73189913245?hash=item2852ec5a9d:rk:1:pf:0&var
I'm trying to get my B7 to run in 4:4:4 chroma in PC input mode from my GTX 1070 but the screen keeps flickering black. It will turn black for a moment before going back to normal and seems to do this every 30 seconds to a minute or so. At first I thought this was my HDMI cable but I recently bought a HDMI 2.0 cable (2.5m long) which is supposed to be 4K certified. Is it possible that despite being HDMI 2.0, the cable is poor quality?
I've been fiddling with settings and only YCbCr420 seems to work perfectly. RGB, 444 and 422 all have flickering issues.
EDIT: Okay so I tested the HDMI cable that came with my PS4 Pro and all the flickering issues are gone. The one I bought recently is obviously not fast enough to output in RGB, 444 or 422. Serves me right for cheaping out. I'm still a little pissed though because the seller claimed it to be a "high speed" cable.
This leads me to my next question, there are slightly more expensive HDMI cables on ebay that are rated for a speed of 18.0Gbps. Is this what I should be buying? This is what I'm looking at right now.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4K-Ultr...73189913245?hash=item2852ec5a9d:rk:1:pf:0&var
Last edited:
Damn, that is some great resale value on the C7.
Its good to know they can be sold for such a good price even after such a long time.
It was professionally calibrated, though, which is why I priced it a little higher than the other C7s up for sale. Most used C7s are available at around $1050.
I rewatched the HDTV Test video where Vincent compares the Panasonic with the AF9 and he does mention it is only UHD discs that are effected, and he shows how the issue impacts on the picture. I can't stand stuttering like that so it would be a deal breaker for me.
And the site is back!
I was able to test the new C8 firmware and the brightness fluctuation bug is completely fixed.
I tested all of the TV show episodes where this was very obvious on my very own TV and now the bug is completely gone. The picture stays bright as it should be all throughout. People on avsforum are confirming this as well, the bug seems to be completely fixed.
Props to LG for fixing this issue so fast after being discovered. And once again Vincent comes out as extremely trustworthy on this because he's the first one to really test this and get in contact with LG about it, and just like he said, LG fixed it quickly after that.
I was able to test the new C8 firmware and the brightness fluctuation bug is completely fixed.
I tested all of the TV show episodes where this was very obvious on my very own TV and now the bug is completely gone. The picture stays bright as it should be all throughout. People on avsforum are confirming this as well, the bug seems to be completely fixed.
Props to LG for fixing this issue so fast after being discovered. And once again Vincent comes out as extremely trustworthy on this because he's the first one to really test this and get in contact with LG about it, and just like he said, LG fixed it quickly after that.
OP
OP
You can turn off the screen in the energy saving options and still get sound output.
Yes. When looking for HDMI cables, you need to look to see if it does 18gb/s and that it can do 4k/60. There are a ton of cables listed as "high speed" but when you look at the details, they don't do 18gb/s or can do 4k/60. Most cables do below the 18 speed and are limited to 4k/30 and will cause issues.
I was looking at some 4K TV's at Best Buy the other day and I noticed analog inputs are going bye bye.
I saw one TV(Sony xbr55x900f) that had one single composite input as in 1 input for video, and both left and right audio. How does that work? Is there an adapter that splits out into Red White and Yellow?
The only retro system I still have is my SNES. How do you hook up old stuff to 4K TV's that are losing analog inputs?
I saw one TV(Sony xbr55x900f) that had one single composite input as in 1 input for video, and both left and right audio. How does that work? Is there an adapter that splits out into Red White and Yellow?
The only retro system I still have is my SNES. How do you hook up old stuff to 4K TV's that are losing analog inputs?
Gorgeous.Had my AF8 65" for three days now, and yea Bumrush I got used to it pretty fast. Wall-mounting helped a lot in making it seem like a part of the room for me, instead of this big black rectangle just being there.
I've had the pleasure of seeing John Wick, Coco, Wall-E, God of War, Spider-Man, Horizon. Super Mario Party and some Seinfeld on it over the weekend. Everything has been quite nice.
Now I just need to get the rest of my living room back together, sell my old tv and find some place for that giant box it came in.
I bought a new NU8500 and there is a slight halo effect by the left edge in certain scenes. Is this common and is there any easy fix?
I bought a new NU8500 and there is a slight halo effect by the left edge in certain scenes. Is this common and is there any easy fix?
That's light bleed. I'm guessing it's a edge lit lcd.
Yep its an edge lit LCD.
They will all have light bleed, some are worst than others tho.
So, I switched my LG UP970 4K UHD player color space output to RGB from YCbCr.
I figured 0-1024 is better than 64-960, considering the fact that, that accurately represents the range of HDR.
Why should I clip everything below 64 and above 960, especially when Dolby Vision is going to properly tone map every bit luminance my display can not reach.
Well, the results are quite eye opening to, how much information is crushed when the output is set to YCbCr
I figured 0-1024 is better than 64-960, considering the fact that, that accurately represents the range of HDR.
Why should I clip everything below 64 and above 960, especially when Dolby Vision is going to properly tone map every bit luminance my display can not reach.
Well, the results are quite eye opening to, how much information is crushed when the output is set to YCbCr
My LG Oled is coming today and I was wondering if I should wait a couple of hours before mounting since the TV was probably sitting in a storage facility for the past two weeks and it is pretty cold out there. Any thoughts?
Saw that there was a Twitch app available on Android TV and I thought 'score!' - no more turning on the PS4 to watch some streams. I quickly found out that Twich does not keep that app updated, at all. So many bugs, including streams not starting automatically. So I went to see if someone had found a solution - and lo and behold, someone wrote their own app and it works flawlessly. Anyway, link here if anyone is in the same boat:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.s0und.s0undtv
It's gonna take some time for the preparations alone though. Measuring, drilling, vacuuming, fixing old holes, sorting cables. I think it took me two hours before it was up on the wall. Did listen to some Frank Sinatra and enjoyed my sunday morning though.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.s0und.s0undtv
It's gonna take some time for the preparations alone though. Measuring, drilling, vacuuming, fixing old holes, sorting cables. I think it took me two hours before it was up on the wall. Did listen to some Frank Sinatra and enjoyed my sunday morning though.
I have an old Sony x850c to replace once I move, but I have some serious analysis paralysis going on here. I'm basically stuck between getting a mid-range Sony LED TV or a LG B8.
However, I have heard some not so great things about the x900f series. I also understand that OLEDs have bad stutter issues on 24 fps movies due to the nature of refresh times on OLEDs or somthing, I absolutely hate the stutter during panning shots and would pay more to avoid them if possible. Of course there's the issue of burn in as well. However I can't even begin to imagine how amazing everything looks on an OLED panel. It really sucks that everything has one dealbreaker or another and I can't really justify taking the leap to a new set.
I'm really hoping the x900g is a step up from the f because that may be the deciding factor.
However, I have heard some not so great things about the x900f series. I also understand that OLEDs have bad stutter issues on 24 fps movies due to the nature of refresh times on OLEDs or somthing, I absolutely hate the stutter during panning shots and would pay more to avoid them if possible. Of course there's the issue of burn in as well. However I can't even begin to imagine how amazing everything looks on an OLED panel. It really sucks that everything has one dealbreaker or another and I can't really justify taking the leap to a new set.
I'm really hoping the x900g is a step up from the f because that may be the deciding factor.
Yea you definitely gotta try out Android TV before you buy it, since it's not the fastest nor is it the most intuitive. It is getting updated though, and Sony has been good at updating TVs even back from 2015. I had the input lag worry as well, since I play a lot of Switch games and mine has 48ms input lag on 1080p content. It doesn't bother me at all though and I honestly do not notice it.
What you do as a Sony TV owner is buy an Apple TV 4k and never worry about that horrible UI again
Unless you own one of the master series TV; the A9F or Z9F. The biggest feat those 2 accomplished was run Android TV properly.
Unless you own one of the master series TV; the A9F or Z9F. The biggest feat those 2 accomplished was run Android TV properly.
Lucky, the TV already arrived and it will be another 3 hours until it is up on the wall. Apart from the settings on rtings, are there any tips and tricks regarding the C8?
Get the latest firmware (4.10.15) if your TV came with firmware 3.00.63 or later, it fixes a brightness fluctuation bug that has been around since at least 3.00.63.
You can be cautious and wait another week to update, but so far its been nothing but positive news from other owners at avsforum.
rtings settings will cover most of the basics, like turning energy saving mode off. Another one I'm not sure if it comes turned on by default is the channel logo luminance adjustment, that one you want to make sure is off too.
Last edited: