I have the Sony X900F, and I've never seen any notification like that so far.
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I have the Sony X900F, and I've never seen any notification like that so far.
Sony doesn't really give a notification, at least with my 930e, I guess same with 900F. But if you go into the picture settings menu on your TV it should say HDR towards the top.
I would recommend getting a 2018 OLED if you go with LG, the changes to game mode HDR alone make it worth it if you regularly play games.
The C8/E8 have the newest processor, the B8 has the 2017 processor, other than that the difference might just be normal panel variance like rtings says in their B8 review.
wow that's a great deal, and even the cheapest OLED will be great because they all use LG Display panels.
Sony doesn't really give a notification, at least with my 930e, I guess same with 900F. But if you go into the picture settings menu on your TV it should say HDR towards the top.
Yea the X900F does the same, and if its Dolby Vision it will say that under the Picture mode, but no notifications at all.
Where are you using the extra two speakers in the bed layer?
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I figured this would happen and it's why I'm going to avoid anything in the 70-79" range. It just won't be a big enough jump from 65"
I could fit 88" for sure but it will eat up most of the wall. In the end that's what you want in a Cinema room though!!
"Alexa, show me Frank's living room"
=P
LMAO!
What changes did LG make to their game mode? Do they still force wide color gamut? Im still eyeing the Sony A9F unless something better turns up in 2019.
You want to set your display settings in your Nvidia Control Panel from RGB to YUV422, your bitrate from 8bit to 10bit, and your black level to Limited. Then you want to go turn on HDR in the Windows Display settings and you're all set. When you're done consuming HDR media, just turn HDR back off, and put your Nvidia settings back to RGB 8bit.
My friend recommended using automatic settings but turning Refresh rate down to 24 when watching HDR since otherwise it uses 8-bit with Dithering instead of 12-bit SRGB.
Will give both methods a try later, after little bit of testing:
Automatic settings and just turning on HDR from Windows results in Desktop using HDR BT.2020 and it looks washed out as hell, SDR files played with MPV look bad but proper HDR files looked alright?
You absolutely do not want to touch your refresh rate. You have to change to YUV422 over RGB or else you'll get 8-bit with dithering, at least at 4k.
lol not far from the truth right now. I borrowed a small pair of bookshelfs to test the configs. Once I nail down what I want to do I have to figure out the speakers. I like to stay within same line and range but I also want to do something more discreet and something that I can move. Considering Focal Dome, and a SVS Prime elevation for Center Height. Not going to do VOG doesn't seem worth it for how much work I would need to put into it"Alexa, show me Frank's living room"
=P
When using YUV420/422/444 I get Color Depth options for 8-bit and 12-bit only, no 10-bit..
So how does this translate to PS4 Pro settings? I did some Googling last week and what I found is that RGB is the best option if you have a newer TV.
What resolution and refresh rate are you using?
RGB is the best setting for PS4, as it'll automatically switch to YUV422 10bit when you launch HDR content, then switch back to RGB 8bit for SDR. PC doesn't do that, you have to manually switch back and forth between them.
DEFINITIVE EDIT TO LG 2017 OLEDs' HDR Game Mode:
More info and all calibrated presets -> here
That's it folks.
As per "Definitive" tag, I really finished my ammo on LG 2017 OLED Series this time and I won't make any further tests after these results.
The only way to add improvement on top of this would be by LG to add real Dynamic Tonemapping also for 7 series (but probably this will never happen).
Until then, thanks everyone for all the feedback, it was an epic ride.
Make your HDR games scream! >:]
- NEW V5.3 / (non-PC) HDR Game Mode is now the recommended option for X1X/PS4 Pro HDR Calibration
- After further tests V6 - EXPERIMENTAL profile was too unreliable and dim compared to V5.3, and has been removed.
- Stealth HDR Game mode minor update up V5.3.2
- Also updated all non-Game profiles enabling TruMotion with De-Judder: 0 + De-Blur: 0 to fix introduced motion stuttering on 60hz contents after firmware 5.80.xx (both SDR/HDR Game modes are not affected)
More info and all calibrated presets -> here
That's it folks.
As per "Definitive" tag, I really finished my ammo on LG 2017 OLED Series this time and I won't make any further tests after these results.
The only way to add improvement on top of this would be by LG to add real Dynamic Tonemapping also for 7 series (but probably this will never happen).
Until then, thanks everyone for all the feedback, it was an epic ride.
Make your HDR games scream! >:]
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Anyone here with a GoBlue from HD Fury? Is it normal for the blue led to remain on when my tv is off?
Edit: Nvm I fixed it, sidenote: Gatsby metadata is quite nice in Gears of War 4 :)
Edit: Nvm I fixed it, sidenote: Gatsby metadata is quite nice in Gears of War 4 :)
Yes.
Black frames in movies and black games' loading screen are pure black with all pixels turned off, even at close distance.
Consider that High DC will crush black level by default, so for the 53 value to offset it. Cannot be higher than that without losing pure blacks.
Sony doesn't really give a notification, at least with my 930e, I guess same with 900F. But if you go into the picture settings menu on your TV it should say HDR towards the top.
Thanks! I still have yet to watch anything in HDR but I'll be on the lookout for that.
It all depends on the content, mine was pro calibrated to 52, I soon went back to 50.
If a black is true 0, then 52 is doable, but if it's not and say it's just above (may seem like absolute black) then it'll go grey, plus because the black floor has been raised you'll see more vertical banding, because more scenes will be susceptible, I can only imagine 53 in pitch black.....but in a brighter room? Sure.
Why i'm not impressed with the hdr in horizon and infamous on my panasonic oled?
I have full range set everywhere on console and tv but the color are not popping out like i always tought it will be...
Is the professional1 mode? Is the most color accurate mode on my tv and maybe is not ideal with colorful game like infamous or horizon?
Maybe i have to set limited or normal in one of the settings on console or tv?
(Sorry for my english)
I have full range set everywhere on console and tv but the color are not popping out like i always tought it will be...
Is the professional1 mode? Is the most color accurate mode on my tv and maybe is not ideal with colorful game like infamous or horizon?
Maybe i have to set limited or normal in one of the settings on console or tv?
(Sorry for my english)
You're absolutely right...when Dynamic Contrast is Off.
As soon as you enable Dynamic Contrast, especially on High, lower black values get crushed compared to Off, therefore you won't see elevated/gray blacks with Brightness at 53 with DC set on High (but you will mostly offset the black levels crush caused by it).
So... I got a Sony XF9005 (EU, should be like 900 for NA), it worked ok when powered on the first time, I connected my google account, played with my PS4 pro and installed an app... then the morning later it didn't worked anymore.
It powered on with the 4 android dots moving in circles forever... :|
I tried the Vol- + Power button to trigget the factory reset, I saw the green light but nothing else happened... also tried to plug in a USB with the firmware, but I suppose it needs to go over that point to even recognize the USB... even unplugging for 2 hours didn't change a thing.
So because I just bought it the day before, I returned it and they will order a new one for me.
I just wanted to share my story to know if there was something else I could have tried to do, and if it happens again (I hope not) with the new one, to know how to avoid to have it again in warranty and just solve the problem myself... I just hope it arrives in time for the holydays... :,(
It powered on with the 4 android dots moving in circles forever... :|
I tried the Vol- + Power button to trigget the factory reset, I saw the green light but nothing else happened... also tried to plug in a USB with the firmware, but I suppose it needs to go over that point to even recognize the USB... even unplugging for 2 hours didn't change a thing.
So because I just bought it the day before, I returned it and they will order a new one for me.
I just wanted to share my story to know if there was something else I could have tried to do, and if it happens again (I hope not) with the new one, to know how to avoid to have it again in warranty and just solve the problem myself... I just hope it arrives in time for the holydays... :,(
Hello again!
First of all, thanks so much for your time and your opinions, GalacticMouse and 2Bee :)
I'm going to buy my new TV in the next days, before Friday I think, and I still have some doubts, however.
As I said before, thanks so much for your answer, mate :)
In my KS800 backlight setting is around 14/20, so what you are commenting about the bright with SDR worries me a bit, since I work at home and I usually have the TV on at the background... Do you think that setting backlight at 100% in the LG C8 could shorten the gap between what I'm used to in my KS8000 and the C8?
Again, thanks you too for your answer, mate :)
You've convinced me about the HDR and the brightness :) However, I've seen many comments about image being dim in some movies and games (I play often), and still worries me about, because I really hate see a movie or play a game on my PS4 Pro with the feeling of being watching a "washed" picture. It's only a settings issue, or it's inherent to the technology?
Lastly, the only really important issue that is concerning me is the burn-in in OLEDs. I usually watch a lot of TV channels and, of course, they put a logo on the screen. I can perfectly watch 2 or 3 hours one channel and then switch to another one. This simple swtich should be enough for avoiding the burn-in issue? Do the pauses for advertisements on a TV channel also avoids this problem?
Thanks a lot, mates :)
First of all, thanks so much for your time and your opinions, GalacticMouse and 2Bee :)
I'm going to buy my new TV in the next days, before Friday I think, and I still have some doubts, however.
As I said before, thanks so much for your answer, mate :)
In my KS800 backlight setting is around 14/20, so what you are commenting about the bright with SDR worries me a bit, since I work at home and I usually have the TV on at the background... Do you think that setting backlight at 100% in the LG C8 could shorten the gap between what I'm used to in my KS8000 and the C8?
Again, thanks you too for your answer, mate :)
You've convinced me about the HDR and the brightness :) However, I've seen many comments about image being dim in some movies and games (I play often), and still worries me about, because I really hate see a movie or play a game on my PS4 Pro with the feeling of being watching a "washed" picture. It's only a settings issue, or it's inherent to the technology?
Lastly, the only really important issue that is concerning me is the burn-in in OLEDs. I usually watch a lot of TV channels and, of course, they put a logo on the screen. I can perfectly watch 2 or 3 hours one channel and then switch to another one. This simple swtich should be enough for avoiding the burn-in issue? Do the pauses for advertisements on a TV channel also avoids this problem?
Thanks a lot, mates :)
I'm assuming you are talking about HDR, as DC for SDR doesn't act the same.
I used to use DC low for HDR game, as that combined with 50 brightness, would help remove above black artifacts in some games, but I found medium to reduce contrast a bit as dark surrounding areas would elevate, thus reducing impact from lamps etc, and high utterly destroys PQ.
Not needed any of that since the Vertex, but medium is a fair option I'd say.
Yes, obviously I was only talking about DC in HDR.
In no SDR profile DC is recommended.
In HDR Game DC is needed to brighten the image from an otherwise too dim and dull preset without a real Dynamic Tonemapping. Low and Medium are very subtle and safe. But with High things get very interesting, as Luminance is much higher and I still found proper contrasts once setup correctly. Colors are also very close to accurate once using Wide gamut instead of Auto, so talking about "destroyed PQ" is a bit exaggerated once its negative effects are offset.
Give a try to my V5.3 settings (no PC Mode, no Vertex) and let me know what you think ;)
Are you playing on PS4 Pro? Because that version has an issue where the dynamic resolution causes a ton of motion blur.
I had my KS8500 at around 10-12 backlight level most of the time and I keep my OLED Light (OLED Backlight tuner, basically) at 80 out of 100 right now and I'm more than comfortable with that. If you were keeping your SDR content at 14, I'd say the OLED is going to be an alright brightness for you near max level. Just be cautious that you could be a little more susceptible to burn in at the higher brightness levels as I understand it.
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Every site said to put the backlight on the Vizio P to 50 or 40 but I find it looks way better when at 80 or 100, am I crazy? If anyone could share their settings I'd appreciate it. Also if anyone could share their Apple TV settings that'd be great to. Sometimes when exiting a movie back to the menu screen the thing kinda freaks out for a second as it switches formats but I feel like this shouldn't be the case. Might actually be the switching from Surround to Stereo as that's the only thing that changes on the header.
The OLED looks absolutely fine on any brightness above 40, even in a well lit room imo. Unless the sun is gonna be straight up shining directly on the TV I wouldn't worry about it.
Thanks again, mates :)
Reading your posts I'm now more relaxed about the SDR brightness. I think it will fit my preferences :)
But... (and as you said) setting the brightness at max worries me because the burn-in. This and the stations logo. For example, Comedy Central is on my actual tv for 4 hours now... This makes me consider the Q9FN, but I feel that I really want to jump to OLED.
Damn, this is a difficult choice! :\
I'm using Game Mode with every image processing turned off. Or are there other settings I'm missing?
Sure, it kinda helps if I'm using another mode with TruMotion enabled, but not without causing artifacts and crazy high input lag obviously, it's not really an option.
Yeah, I'm on PS4 Pro. Well..that sucks :/ Is manually limiting the console to 1080p output helping? (not that this is ideal obviously)
I don't think you gonna like the black crush. Even with adjustments DC high messes too much with the image quality.
I would be real pissed if i didn't had the Linker! What about you? Would you upgrade to an 2018 OLED if injecting custom metadata wasn't an option on your B7?
I remember that you was fine with the HDR game mode before you bought the Vertex. "Don't mess with my game mode LG". Lol.
Burn in issues have only affected a very small % of people, statistically the chances are very low of it happening.
But if you feel like you're going to be worrying about it too much all the time then it might be better to go with the LCD. I personally only ever think about burn in when it comes up in this thread lol.
Some use cases of course clearly call for an LCD tho, like someone that watches the TV in a super bright room (think the sun shining straight at the TV or something like that), or someone that plays the same game for hundreds or even thousands of hours (think an MMO or a game like Overwatch). CNN is the other big offender because all of the static red always displayed on the screen.
As far as I know the comedy central channel logo is a dim semitransparent white, I think it shouldn't be an issue at all. Most of the time the problematic logos or HUD elements are red or yellow ones, like all the static red crap on CNN.
Thanks a lot :)
Do you know if the burn-in requires the channel logo to be uninterruptedly printed on the screen? I mean, if the puase for ads "resets" the countdown, then the burn-in issue is not so big, because the logo would not be present all that time...
Playing, for example, RDR2 for 2 or 3 hours should also not be a really big problem for the screen, right?
already watched, he doesn't go into details too much unfortunately...
can someone help me?
i really want to enjoy hdr on my tv...
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Haha, I did *do* like it without injection, as it still offers awesome, better PQ over anything I had before (3 previous top end HDR TV's) from the get go I pointed out games that looked dim compared to what I had before, like as you know, some are worse than others, but it got to the point where it was getting really noticeable, hense the Vertex.
Whether I'd upgrade, not sure as getting a 5th TV is a bit nuts in a short amount of time, but luckily I don't have to think about it, as I'm generally really happy, and all these bloody TV's have something wrong with them! You should've seen the FALD grid artifacts on my last set when panning with HDR films, really hated that, and much like this set, I spent even more time trying to get it to look it's best! Complicated TV.
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According to LG burn in risk is accumulated content, not uninterupted, so any ads or breaks are irrelevant. Even so, like someone else said, unless you watch a lot of CNN or are going to be putting 500+ hours into games with bright red or yellow HUD elements, you shouldn't worry about burn in. I've played loads of games with static huds, including 8+ hour play sessions of all kinds of games, including shit like Overwatch and Destiny with bright yellow HUD elements and have had absolutely no problems. Of course you can play RDR2 on it, lots of us are, myself included. You could play that shit for 10 hours straight if you want, it will be fine.
Burn in is from cumulative use, so it doesn't matter if you watch something for 15 minutes or 4 hours straight. So yes, if you ever want to binge on a game for a few hours, that would be fine. I recently finished RDR2 with a total of ~80 hours played with some sessions that were over 4 hours long and I had no issues on my C8.
500 hrs + of Overwatch on my C7 OLED at this point. not even a hint of IR, let alone burn in
This burn-in video series made me more comfortable with burn-in on my use-case: https://youtu.be/Sa0fc34ph5U?t=205
Basically, they're running 6 separate pieces of content on 6 separate displays in intervals of 5 hours on, 1 hour off. Here's an update from August 2018 (about 7 months later): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxR88EDoMx0
Basically, CNN at max brightness is a huge offender of burn-in but mixed content or even 20 hours a day of CoD WWII doesn't seem to cause any major issues.
Seems like the red sub-pixel degrades faster than the others, which makes sense that CCN would cause problems.
Basically, unless you're playing the same game with a bright, static HUD for hours and hours every week, it seems that you're unlikely to see any noticeable burn-in!
Basically, they're running 6 separate pieces of content on 6 separate displays in intervals of 5 hours on, 1 hour off. Here's an update from August 2018 (about 7 months later): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxR88EDoMx0
Basically, CNN at max brightness is a huge offender of burn-in but mixed content or even 20 hours a day of CoD WWII doesn't seem to cause any major issues.
Seems like the red sub-pixel degrades faster than the others, which makes sense that CCN would cause problems.
Basically, unless you're playing the same game with a bright, static HUD for hours and hours every week, it seems that you're unlikely to see any noticeable burn-in!
8K is absolute insanity, not into it at all. Good bye decent looking 1080p content, hello impossible resolution to game on....like $7k PC's can't even lock down 4k 60 fps lol. Have tv sales slowed so much already that we need the "new" thing?
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