Indeed. By all accounts the firmware improves the performance of the set though, but of course you aren't going to be happy if it throws the accuracy out, if you have paid someone hundreds to calibrate, and cant fix it yourself.
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Indeed. By all accounts the firmware improves the performance of the set though, but of course you aren't going to be happy if it throws the accuracy out, if you have paid someone hundreds to calibrate, and cant fix it yourself.
Wow @ that Sony update news
Glad my B8 came stock as I just have it completely disconnected from the internet
Glad my B8 came stock as I just have it completely disconnected from the internet
Just an update but I think I must be missing something because even with some time the 'Warm2' white balance on my C9 OLED just looks way too yellow. Things that are supposed to be white look like piss and it makes the colour washed out.
I've used all of the other suggested settings and I'm not that picky but is this really what 'good settings' look like? Are my eyes that bad or what?
I've used all of the other suggested settings and I'm not that picky but is this really what 'good settings' look like? Are my eyes that bad or what?
Just drop it to warm 1 then. At the end it's your TV and should be comfortable to you.
Yeah, that's what I've done and I feel that things look a lot better overall. Medium is way too cool but Warm2 just makes everything look like Fallout: New Vegas. Thanks!
I guess I just hate the notion that I'm 'missing out' on better image quality from a TV I've spent so much on. Maybe that's irrational lol since I think that most things look amazing on it anyway.
You're not really missing out anything though, especially if its something that keeps making the picture quality looks worse to you. It's not like you're watching the TV on Vivid (now that would be a crime lol).
Want sure where to ask but I have a LG b9 and my firestick and One X have serious problems if both devices are plugged into the HDMI ports. My firestick is on HDMI 4 and One X on HDMI 1. If my firestick is on sleep or switched on then the One X feed will constantly flicker. I've tried different HDMI cables for the One X and it makes no difference. If I switch off the firestick by removing the plug then the One X stops flickering instantly. What is causing this?
Just ordered an Apple TV 4K for my C9. I figured if the C9 ever gets the app (and if it's full featured) I can just sell the Apple TV and get most my money back.
Anything I should know about the set up? Any apps that are better to use on WebOS?
Anything I should know about the set up? Any apps that are better to use on WebOS?
If you are planning to use the Apple TV+ app, you'll have to manually update the Apple 4KTV's firmware. For some reason, mine didn't automatically download the latest firmware
Is that straight from LG's mouth? Last I heard they were still even promising a possible 2019 set update for it, but I'm not holding my breath. After getting my C9 I don't find anything objectionable about the motion without BFI, so I'm glad I didn't wait.
If you have never seen an 'accurate' picture, your eyes might just need time to adjust, but a warm looking picture is what you should be seeing, especially on an LG which targets D65 by default. Sony use a custom white point which looks a little cooler.
Bad cable, not properly shielded perhaps. Try other cables from the X.
Thanks I thought this was the case, I've tried the original One X cable, a old one I had, and a brand new one from Amazon Basics. They all have the same problem.
I'm going to replace the firestick with a new one as it could be poorly shielded? If this doesn't work I might call up LG to take a look at the HDMI board if it could be that.
You could also try an extension cable between the firestick and the TV. Try a different input. It all sounds a bit weird, though.
I suppose, but then again with a response like this:
I don't know. Like I do realise that real life does tend towards the warmer end of the scale but I also know that white things tend to be, you know, white lol.
Just wish there wasn't this amount of stress coming with such a high-value purchase lol
I've had my C9 calibrated and when switching between the calibrated picture modes (the ISF Bright/Dark, HDR Cinema/Cinema Home) and something else (like Standard or Game) there is a noticeable "cooling" of the picture. However, I've been using warmer modes on my old TV so long that rather than looking more white, those modes just look too "blue" to my eyes.
It's really all preference though (well, aside from the fact that "technically" films do have a "correct" way to look). Maybe try to get used to the Warm mode for movie/tv viewing, since it is actually more accurate for those source, but just go all out with one of the other modes when gaming if it's a look you like (and we all know games aren't tuned to standards the same way filmed content is).
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I remember reading that around avs but couldn't point you exactly where so don't take it as 100% confirmed now. Still, I think if it was ready for the C9 and got pulled at the last minute I guess it should appear in the C10.
Well, I dunno, I think differently, there should be a good compromise with accurancy and being pleased with the picture. But I'm not that expect, I did feel Warm 2 was too warm and Warm 1 too little, that's why (and also because it was recommended by some people in avsforum) switched to Technicolor and never looked back because I just liked it better.
The only rub there is if it was pulled due to something fundamental to the panel (long-term damage concerns or something or prone to near-black flickering, etc.), then if there isn't a substantial change in the panels next year nothing would have fundamentally changed in why they pulled it from the 2019 sets. We'll see I guess.
The Apple TV app on TVs only lets you play Apple content. It does not let you use any of the apps that run on an Apple TV.
There is no right and wrong. At the end of the day, you have to enjoy your purchase. It depends if you want an accurate picture at the end of the day. As I say, a D65 calibration will not leave whites looking cool. They will tend towards a warmer image, but some people don't like that, which is fair enough. As I say, my Sony has a custom white point that is definitely cooler, so maybe that is the direction the standard is moving in.
I know, I'm only really in it for buying and renting iTunes movies.
Warm 2 looks awful for me too. Im using medium and it looks hell of a lot better. I calibrate my TV myself or my liking. I tried the "official" calibration guides but those look bad to me.
Thanks! The firestick comes with a short extension it might have made a slight difference but hard to tell the flickering makes the Xbox unusable either way. I've also tried different slots and it doesn't make a difference.
It makes the desktop be in HDR mode constantly though, that won't screw up SDR-only games?
There's a slider to change the appearance of SDR content in Windows HD Content
You can't just copy numbers and call your set calibrated. You need a meter to calibrate colours accurately. A properly calibrated image will not look bad to anyone I guarantee. It raises the image these TVs are capable of to another level completely.
So true. I think many consider something being calibrated as making picture adjustments or using the same settings from a calibrated display which is no fault of their own because they way people tend to word stuff it leads them to believe as such. I mean this forum has a thread that is one of the worst offenders imho lol.
Calibration is to coordinates, that's all. Cannot reach coordinates without something to read and display what the coordinates are. It's like a street address in relation to a map. Wish people realized that is what calibration actually is
Except there are plenty of people online that don't like accurate displays, they want vivid colours that pop and whites that are pure white or swing towards the blue spectrum.
Properly calibrated displays are 'dull' and 'piss coloured' to lots of people.
If I get a chance I'll post some pics of my calibrated AF9. Dull and piss coloured it aint. And that was calibrated by me, using a cheap colorimeter.
Sony's custom white point isn't about shifting the standard cooler, it's about making OLEDs perceptually match other reference displays. While it arguably varies from viewer to viewer, if you were to place a WRGB OLED right next to an RGB LCD both calibrated exactly to D65 according to a meter, many (most?) people would perceive their white point to be noticeably different. Sony's slightly shifted white point aims to make them look the same.
Interesting. I've actually just checked my Calman settings for my last calibration and I targeted D65. Might have to try using the shifted white point next time and directly compare.
You will have to look into whether or not Calman is already applying a correction offset to account for it, based on which display type you tell it you're measuring. They were not a couple years back, but may have added it since.
ISF presets are both warm 2. Technicolor expert used to be warm 2 but recently, I think within the last year or so, it was updated to use warm 1 as they said it was more accurate.
My calibrated C9 uses Warm 2 as their base for all the calibrated modes for what it's worth.
Just ordered the C9, I needed a tv since we are moving soon.
Can't wait to see what this is all about^^
Can't wait to see what this is all about^^
I'm wondering if anyone here with the LG C9 has a solution to my issue.
Simply put, I want to connect my PC to the TV and make use of G-Sync, but I also want to be able to make use of my surround sound system.
Obviously I can't plug the PC into the AVR and be able to use G-Sync, so I am using the Audio Return Channel to get sound from my receiver.
The issue with that is I only have the option for stereo output in my windows sound settings.
There's only 1 hdmi out on my GPU so I can't run a second cable to the avr for audio.
I figure the simplest solution would be to have an HDMI switch between my PC and the TV so I can set 7.1 in my audio settings.
If anyone here has a solution I'd appreciate them sharing it.
Simply put, I want to connect my PC to the TV and make use of G-Sync, but I also want to be able to make use of my surround sound system.
Obviously I can't plug the PC into the AVR and be able to use G-Sync, so I am using the Audio Return Channel to get sound from my receiver.
The issue with that is I only have the option for stereo output in my windows sound settings.
There's only 1 hdmi out on my GPU so I can't run a second cable to the avr for audio.
I figure the simplest solution would be to have an HDMI switch between my PC and the TV so I can set 7.1 in my audio settings.
If anyone here has a solution I'd appreciate them sharing it.
while I haven't done this, I researched it awhile back and I believe you should be able to simultaneously do display port to hdmi with your DP connection on your GPU and send audio that way, not limited to stereo.
Ah yeah, I read that too. I'd need a passive DP to HDMI adapter I think?
OK, so it's technically more of an audio question, but it's my first time using ARC, HDMI-CEC and a receiver. I just bought a Samsung Q70R and a Onkyo-NR868. My original plan was to wall mount the TV and just run one HDMI cable through the wall from the ARC HDMI port into the receiver and do all of my input switching via the receiver. However, now that I have it set up that way, I'm not liking the fact that since everything goes into one HDMI port on the TV, I have to adjust picture settings/game mode depending on what I'm playing/watching. So... would I be missing out on anything if I put my most used devices on HDMI 1, 2, and 3 on the TV, and just left the HDMI 4 solely for the audio via ARC and not actually carrying any video? Or is there a simpler way to save different image settings for different devices using just the ARC input on my TV? Before I call a friend to help me remove my TV from the wall mount I want to make sure I have the right plan in place to get the perfect picture settings for each device and still be able to use my receiver for the audio. Sorry if it is a dumb question or explained poorly, I figured I would try to learn as I go with setting up my first receiver and slowly build up from a 2.1 setup, but I think I'm in over my head at the moment.
Yep, which should support LPCM and MPCM. If you want to do any bitstream stuff then I think you need something that actively converts to an HDMI signal.
Well you should only be looking at 4 types of content
video in HDR and SDR
games in HDR and SDR
You set up each one of those and the Tv should switch between them
I think the biggest issue is how bad I am at calibrating each, though. For example I feel the SDR feed from my comcast cable box just looks especially crappy after setting up SDR video settings from another source. Maybe I just need to tinker more/get used to the menus to find the right settings and see if they save separately with both game mode and HDR on and off.
New Update for Sony tvs. It fixes the no Dolby vision with the Disney+ app. Updated tandroid to Pie, added Airplay, Atmos for tv speakers (I don't get this), and UI updates.
I'm still rocking the 46HX803 I bought in 2010 - it's served me well. About to upgrade to a C9 when I find the right deal. 😊
Truer words have not been spoken.
I've haven't opened this thread for a few months now, and I've been enjoying the hell out of my 65" B7. Recently opened this thread, and I'm back to feeling like the tv is meh lol.