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I watched this in HDR on my PC monitor and then on a USB drive on my OLED. The HDR footage on FFXV and Horizon were bright af on the monitor. I'm using the Asus PG27UQ, rated at 1000 nits in HDR. Guess it depends on your preference in what looks better. Looked more natural on the OLED. Surprised God of War wasn't picked.
You're gonna want to look towards Samsung for any VRR functionality, but it's still limited to AMD GPUs and Xbox One iirc.
The correct setting can be dependent on a couple of factors, but in almost all cases it should only be set to 85 for the LG OLEDs in SDR. Changing it from the default of 85 on the LG C8 (like with many other manufacturers' TVs) will throw off the alignment of the grayscale. Even though you may not have clipping in your whites, when you go to adjust the multipoint grayscale, you will run into problems. So if you're going to adjust the 70% settings for example, the adjustments you make will may not primarily affect 70%, but could instead affect 68% or %72 or 77% or whatever due to the contrast setting shifting the location of the adjustment point. And even if you aren't going to touch the grayscale settings and just stick with one of the presets, then changing the contrast setting also risks making your gamma even worse. Any changes to peak luminance (the overall brightness of the set) in SDR should be made via the OLED Light control or its equivalent setting for other brands.
I don't know why Rtings would use anything other than 85. Maybe they have their reasons or maybe it's a typo. You could always ask them directly as they are pretty good at responding to questions. Either way, unless you're directly copying all of their settings and their settings only to your set (though I've already made a post earlier in this thread about why copying settings is a bad idea), then you should just stick with 85.
The LG C9 works with the XBox One as well, although it's quite clear it's a bit of a hack job right now. Hopefully the next generation consoles and GPUs have HDMI 2.1 VRR capability.
Yeah, I used their settings as my first baseline on the C9, but SDR content at 90 looked washed out to my eye.
Very informative. Thanks so much for the reply. Yeah I wanted to ask them directly, I made an account but I don't know how to comment on their articles, do I need to be a contributor?
No problem. It used to be you didn't have to create an account to post a question to one of their reviews; all you had to do was provide an email address. It looks like now you have to create an account, but I don't think you have to be a contributor.
A new HDR mode was updated today
Recommended settings for C8/C9?
So, with Sharpness 0 being determined to be the proper setting for LG OLED, where does that leave us with Edge Enhancer? Edge Enhancer merely activates the Sharpness slider, with EE off the sharpness slider does nothing. So should EE be set on with sharpness on 0, or can EE just be turned off?
A new HDR mode was updated today
What are those two settings (Peak Brightness – Paper White) actually doing? How should we proceed with those settings to calibrate the HDR picture? Adjust Peak Brightness before Paper White, or vice versa?
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I'm assuming peak brightness is to set the value around what your TV is. Most OLEDs are around 800 so that number should be at or around 800. No idea what paper white means
Has anyone gotten word yet on the Game Mode fix on the C9?
With HDR on and in Game Mode (no ALLM or VRR) all games are unplayable.
What settings are fellow C9 users using on both the Xbox One X and the TV?
With HDR on and in Game Mode (no ALLM or VRR) all games are unplayable.
What settings are fellow C9 users using on both the Xbox One X and the TV?
This is what always made sense to me. EE just turns on the artificial Sharpness slider, afterall. But RTINGs always suggested that it needs to be left to ON with the Sharpness slider set to 0 as a form of bypass. Did they just completely misunderstand what the Edge Enhancer setting was?
4000 and 120 looks good to me but I'm not evil or boris.
I have a vertical line on my PQ65-F1 that shows up once a while, would that be enough to get an exchange, how common is this issue with Visio? I bought it from Costco, will they try to fix it or just exchange it and do I need the box?
To preference and using what patterns you may have available OLED Light, Contrast, Brightness, Color, Tint, (if needed), Sharpness, Motion. That's about all you can do if you do not have equipment and software. I would suggest not copying settings, and if you do definitely not copying from a different series such as 6, 7 or 9.
The display would be tone mapping 4000 nit content to 800 nits, so that the display retains detail at 800 nits of peak brightness.
Why do I feel like I'm always reading something wrong with the C9.
Can get a similar experience for less with the Q9F, if you can find it.
I played several games with HDR on game mode (PS4 pro and Xbox One X) and didn't notice any issue (coming from a KS8000 and Q90R, I'm rather sensitive to input lag).
What do you mean by « unplayable » ?
Well according to Rtings, the TV goes from 13.4ms in SDR to 39.1ms in HDR. So that's essentially 3x the input lag. So yeah, I would tag that as "unplayable" too.
40ms is not ideal, but far from "unplayable" for a vast majority of people. Still, no reason for the lag, LG will most likely fix it.
But does 39.1 hit a threshold of unplayable? I sort of feel that isn't exactly some extraordinary number or outlier. Possibly fairly common in this tech?
39.1 is meaningless without reference. Exactly what threshold is unplayable? 20? 30? 50?
You're right, I didn't play any 4K 60 FPS game. Is there any which reach that so I could test ?
I'm having issues with Tetris Effect. It feels off when HDR is on.
I've got to say, it doesn't always feel bad though. It does really feel like a bug.
Unplayable is subjective, of course, but I know for a fact that I would be completely horrified by 39.1ms of input lag. Keep in mind that I've been keeping around my old 34" Sony Wega 1080i CRT HDTV around for that very reason. Input lag is the bane of my existence.
Edit: Most TVs lately seem to be hitting 10-16ms, which is what I would deem as great. Anything above 16ms can die in a fire.
With my TV, moving from game mode to PC mode shifts input lag from 20.6ms to 37.1ms according to RTINGS. The only time I really feel the difference is if I immediately switch between the 2, but then I quickly adjust to the change and forget about it. I guess I'm fortunate since this doesn't seem to affect playability for me.
Massive stuttering, completely unplayable.
For anyone with an XBX and a C9, make sure that your console is set to 4k and that HDR is selected in the XBX settings. (You can have ALLM on if you want, but not VRR). Start up a game and switch the TV to game mode if it doesn't happen automatically. I get exactly what is described below.
If I switch the TV to Standard or one of the other HDR picture settings, no issue. Game Mode doesn't work at all.
See below from AVSforum which summarizes it.
Are any others getting Dolby Vision raised blacks AGAIN through the HDMI port on a C8? I've tried XB1X and ATV, all my films are fucked basically, TV's Netflix app is fine........can't believe this tbh, as soon as the lights go off it's like a poor LCD.
.55 firmware.
.55 firmware.
I'll try it tomorrow with Forza Horizon 4.
I didn't really mess with settings as the Xbox One has automatically adapted its settings to the TV so I'd say they are the standard ones. What settings do you want to know ?
I'm not sure what this means. I have zero issues with my xox and c9 playing nice. I do keep vrr off and 4:2:2 unchecked.
I can't figure it out. Rumor is firmware issue which messes up Game Mode. Rtings review claims the same issue and says that LG is working on a fix.
I'm curious to do a settings check with someone who get FH4 or some other game working. Here is what I have set when it breaks
On Xbox
4k
VRR off
ALLM off/on
HDR on
4:2:2 off
Dolby vision on
On TV
Game mode
With those settings it's constant flickering and won't work. Swapping to any other picture setting on the TV works fine. Disabling HDR on the console also works fine.
I even used a USB stick to update the TV firmware to no avail.
If someone gets FH4 working with the above I want to see what I'm missing.
FUD
Reads like it was written by that quantum apothosis clown. Every single burn in picture I've seen has been from a store/display model or people who bought said crap.
Wait a second so you have to choose between vrr or HDR?
No, but VRR on the C9 feels like a bit of a hack job right now
I thought so too. I felt it was a big over reaction. My news feed seems to be getting filled with these click bait BS articles lately.
Yes. I do. And I'm constantly bitching about it here hoping to hear some good news or workaround ideas. Some users say they don't see the problem. Maybe a panel variance thing.
Here is the last post I made on the subject, regarding Rtings answering a question about the problem:
https://www.resetera.com/threads/tv-displays-and-tech-thread-ot2-there-is-no-perfect-tv-™-read-the-op.55230/page-296#post-20486206
Basically there are two workarounds that I know of. One is to lower the Brightness to 49 or 48. This fixes the black levels (at least to the naked eye), but I'm not sure if it adversely affects the picture in other ways - such as black crush. The other option is to force HDR10 through the ATV4k when watching Dolby Vision. This is a pain in the ass though. The only reason I'm still putting up with the ATV4K despite this is because of the awesome iTunes sales. I just got John Wick 1&2 for $10.
Supposedly, the Dolby Vision profile used by Sony 4K Blu Ray players fixes the issue. I know you don't do physical media. I still do, for now. I just ordered a Sony X800M2, which was just released. I should get it by Friday. I'll report back on whether it exhibits the bug or not.
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