Yeah, the resolution is neat, but man, popping in Tetris Effect, Horizon and then just seeing the city intro of John Wick 2 with HDR on is crazy.
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Yeah, the resolution is neat, but man, popping in Tetris Effect, Horizon and then just seeing the city intro of John Wick 2 with HDR on is crazy.
Both is needed for games IMO. Try Mankind Divided on Xbox, it has HDR but its 900p and my god it looks like ass on my C8. Not even for free could I play that crap.
Totally agree that both are important. 4k was something that after awhile it stopped impressing me, while hdr consistently was something that wowed me. As soon as I played something in 720p after playing in 4k was when I realized how much I took 4k for granted. It's so hard to go back lol.
If anyone has Prime Video, watch a bit of John Wick 2 then switch over to the 4K HDR version. The version on Prime is hideous and I'm not being hyperbolic. It's in 16:9 and the picture is zoomed in. Stuff is chopped off the sides and often looks stretched. Also no HDR obviously. Confirmed that I'm waiting for the UHD release of JW3 as there are no Dolby Cinemas anywhere near me (only 2 in the whole of the UK) and I want to see it at its best first time
I'm such a n00b on this since I've been in VR and portable Switch land the past few years :D
I know I'd need a PS4 Pro to do HDR for games, right? (have an OG PS4 now)
I'll also have a gaming PC, a Switch, and a chromecast Ultra hooked up - anything special I need to do with the PC and chromecast to access HDR content / modes? Anyone recommend a primer on HDR?
So here's what I'm trying to figure out.
Rtings.com says that the Vizio P Series 2018 is better than the TCL 6 Series. But everyone points out that the TCL is a better deal than the Vizio for the money.
Best Buy currently shows a $200 difference between the two displays. If I wait and save for, say, three weeks, $200 won't be a big deal. The downsides of this are that a.) I'm impatient, and b.) My Best Buy is low on stock of Vizio P-Series Displays, probably clearing them out to bring in the Quantum displays at some point.
My question really is: Is the Vizio Display better enough than the TCL to justify $200 and a three week wait?
Rtings.com says that the Vizio P Series 2018 is better than the TCL 6 Series. But everyone points out that the TCL is a better deal than the Vizio for the money.
Best Buy currently shows a $200 difference between the two displays. If I wait and save for, say, three weeks, $200 won't be a big deal. The downsides of this are that a.) I'm impatient, and b.) My Best Buy is low on stock of Vizio P-Series Displays, probably clearing them out to bring in the Quantum displays at some point.
My question really is: Is the Vizio Display better enough than the TCL to justify $200 and a three week wait?
Even if it had good HDR the game would look like ass on Xbox. Ass smear resolution is really not ok.
I love HDR too, but I don't downplay res either. Look at the enhanced BC compared to non... it's not even close.
As mentioned by Jessie your good with hdr on base ps4. I don't have a gaming pc so unfortunately I'm not much help sorry. Here's a page for some basic settings https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/c8-oled/settings just make sure if your using pc mode to have sharpness at 0 instead of 20 like it suggests, tv was updated so 0 sharpness is correct regardless of mode.
For hdr make sure to enable hdmi ultra HD deep color like the page suggests. Enjoy your tv! :)
And just to add, since you mentioned being in VR ninjaboyjohn , if you have the v1 of PSVR, you need to disconnect the breakout box. Just sold my PSVR because of this as I'll never be arsed to hook up. Roll on PS5 VR.
Awesome - thanks for the tips!
Yeah, I have an og v1 PSVR and will still want to play Wipeout and Astro Bot sometimes...
Got a question, when using Pc mode (but not having a pc connected) just setting the tv to pc mode and playing ps4/Xbox/switch. Does it matter what the black level is set to? High+full vs low+limited?
For regular tv use it's recommended to just go low+limited which is what I've been using both in and out of pc mode. But for pc gaming your suppose to use high+full I've heard.
I guess I'm just confused if pc mode (when playing console games) changes anything and means I need to switch rgb levels. I've tried high+full but I'm not seeing a difference.
For regular tv use it's recommended to just go low+limited which is what I've been using both in and out of pc mode. But for pc gaming your suppose to use high+full I've heard.
I guess I'm just confused if pc mode (when playing console games) changes anything and means I need to switch rgb levels. I've tried high+full but I'm not seeing a difference.
The Vizio is 1000 nits, the TCL is about 800-900 nits. The Vizio OS is clunky, the TCL uses Roku OS is not. The Vizio is getting Apple Airplay, along with its built-in Chromecast, and Alexa support.
Both of them should have pretty good input lag.
Being a previous owner of the KS8000, I thought the upgrade from that to an OLED was about as big as the jump from 1080p to 4K/HDR in the first place.
https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/x900f/settings
Usually a good starting point at the very least
$999 for a 65in c8?? Isn't that a new record low? I have a 65in ks9000 but I would be tempted if I found this TV at that price
YO, do it right now. I paid $2,000 for a 55 inch LG B7 from a 55 inch KS8000 and even THAT was worth it. What you're talking about is an easy no brainer.
Honestly, you really shouldn't be that scared--especially with the newer models of OLED. I've played games for hours on end on my Plasma and never got burn in from gaming*. Temporary image retention that went away after awhile? Yes. Anything like a HUD permanently seared into the corner? No. Fortunately, newer OLED TVs are more resilient to burn in than plasma ever was. If you watch/play at a reasonable brightness (like less than 150 nits) and vary your content (including your games), then it really shouldn't be much of a problem. If you're just going to be playing the exact same game hours on end, everyday, for several months to a year then yeah, you will probably get burn in eventually (and it'll come sooner the higher you have the OLED Light set). Out of the people that game on their TV, what percentage of them game like that? I'm guessing it's at the very least a minority and maybe even a small one at that. If that is the case, then most gamers probably don't have to worry about it. For the ones that do primarily play one game for months on end or other extreme use cases, then of course LCD is going to be more appropriate, but I don't think the same is true for your run of the mill gamer.
Second, I really want to address the thing about MicroLED being our savior. This isn't addressed to you so much as everyone on the internet that has virtually turned this sentiment into a meme. From what we know, MicroLED should be able to get much brighter than OLED without being pushed as hard, but there's no guarantee it won't have burn in issues as well. It's a self emissive display and every self emissive display made so far has had issues with burn in. Some may have had more problems than others, but CRT, EL, Plasma, and OLED have all been susceptible to it. Hell, LCD can get burn in certain circumstance and it isn't even self emissive like those others. For all we know, there may be other flaws or quirks with MicroLED we don't know about yet and won't know until they're out in the wild. I'm as excited for it as every other home theater nerd, but I've been into this hobby long enough to know I shouldn't count my chickens yet. I really hope I'm wrong though.
*My plasma did eventually get burn in, but it wasn't from gaming. The burn in was from the logo on the home menu of my Blu-ray player. Since I used my player for watching Netflix and Youtube in addition to discs, I used the player nearly every day for several years. It's only after that when the TV got burn in. I think the many, many hours of pillarboxed 4:3 content I've watched may also be causing some burn in now, but it looks more like subtle vignetting than anything. Either way, it took years to even get to that point. The real moral of the story is that if you're going to get the Geek Squad warranty at Best Buy just in case, make sure you get the 5 year and not the 4 year. If I had, I would've had an OLED sooner.
I don't believe you need to switch to High/Full just because it's in PC mode. You should only have change it to match your source. If you do have a PC connected, you'll probably be better off using Full on your PC and High on the TV (assuming it doesn't switch to High automatically if you have it set to, well, Auto). For consoles, I believe it's going to depend on what they're outputting.
Standard PS4 supports HDR as well. When I still had the standard PS4 though, I had to use Full RGB when using HDR, else I would end up with crushed blacks. I have never been able to determine if this was TV specific or not (I have a Samsung KS9000) since most people seem to have Pros nowadays.
Ok thanks. Yeah I don't own a pc. I just use pc mode for gaming on consoles because it's recommended. I was just confused cause I read this https://www.rtings.com/tv/discussio...t-in-pc-mode-when-play-games-in-console-or-pc
"Leaving the input label to PC when using a console depends on the console output setting. For example, Xbox one X/S has a PC RGB mode so you should set it to that if you leave the TV input label to PC"
I like keeping rgb levels low limited for convenience sake for hdr and sdr. So having tv and consoles set to low+limited meant I could set it and forget about it.
But their post made it seem like high full for pc mode and consoles was the way to go. I'm just not seeing a difference. But maybe I'm missing something. I'd like to get it just limited and low for less of a headache but I dunno if I'm missing any pq because of that.
Yeah I don't use pc mode for hdr. Just sdr. Because sdr game mode has locked wide color gamut.
As long as they match even in pc mode? Great. Thanks for the peace of mind you two :)
This has to be an error. I would've bought that shit on the spot and I have a 55 b7.
The two main reasons to use PC mode are to get the full 4:4:4 chroma subsampling (or RGB) and/or to get less input lag with a picture mode other than game mode. If neither one of these are a concern for you, then it may be easier to stick with the game mode instead of worrying about PC. You should be able to leave game mode set to full without it affecting the other picture modes. At least I think you can, as my memory's a bit fuzzy. If so, then you could just switch over to game mode for Full when you need it and one of the others like Technicolor or ISF Day/Night when you don't. It should at least be more convenient than cycling through menus to get to the levels settings.
Edit: Looks like I missed your other response. Good thing because I forgot about Wide Gamut being locked. Because of that, impact is right that just making sure both settings are the same will probably be the best choice.
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Awesome thanks for the feedback.
Yeah I was surprised as well, when I went in last week it was 2k for the 65in and 1.5k for the 55. Apparently they hit 75% off today so 1k for 65 and 799 for 55.
I just went back and purchased the last one that wasnt the floor model. They had 5 earlier when I posted the question. Thanks for all the help!
That's a crazy good deal! Wonder if I should try my luck with the nearby Walmarts lol
Sigh, my list of potentials is, at this point, down to the 55" TCL 6 series, the 55" XBR X950G or the 49" XBR 900F. I cannot go bigger than 55 at all and I'm trying to keep my budget in line, but the $300 gap between the two Sony TVs is bad enough but that TCL is just so damned cheap...
Ugh, I hate this. I shouldn't even be making this sort of resolution since I cannot make a decision on it, let alone actually go buy the thing. Just kind of planning for later.
Ugh, I hate this. I shouldn't even be making this sort of resolution since I cannot make a decision on it, let alone actually go buy the thing. Just kind of planning for later.
As an X950G owner, one major advantage over the 900F is the faster processing and improved Android Oreo interface. TV is lightning fast at bouncing between apps and damn near doing anything.
I hear the 900F can be really sluggish in contrast. If that is worth the premium price for you.
Can't speak to the TCL.
I thought Sony was going to release Android Oreo to F sets too.
Christ there's that same deal, 65 C8 for $999, near my parents house. Maybe I should call my mom today...
I've been where you are before, and I think you'll be happiest with the 950G. I'd recommend getting the better version that you're considering; you're going to be unsatisfied with your purchase if you get a lesser set. Always wondering what the better HDR and higher brightness would be like. You're also going to want the better Sony X1 Ultimate processor.
I bought the 900E back in Dec. 2017 and was happy with the results. But I liked it so much that I really wanted the 930E for Dolby Vision compatibility, couldn't stop thinking about it, and eventually exchanged it for the 930E in February. Very happy that I chose to do so and it would have eaten away at me forever if I had kept the original set.
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Out of curiosity, how would you compare HDR between the 900E and 930E?
That is crazy. I don't see that discount on brickseek. My stores are still showing $2798.
What is the SKU? I don't see how a person could pass up that offer.
I'd call it an astonishing level of difference. Brightness matters immensely if you're into LCDs. The 900E was dim by comparison which affects your gains from HDR. More than anything you are DV compatible with the 930E which is great for Netflix and Apple TV. So even though I'm all about 4K UHD disc movies and my PS4 Pro, it really improved the quality of streaming services. The 1)brightness, 2)Dolby Vision, and 3)better speakers made it all worth it.
Rtings .1 score differentials don't tell the whole story.
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I followed those ratings settings for the x900f and wasn't happy at all in game mode. Look very dim and grey. My friend who has the 900E told me to turn the brightness and colour up and that alone made a massive difference.
I wonder is there a better game mode setting list available online for best picture quality.
Edit: he's now gone through them all and I'm much more satisfied. Imo doing a one suits all calibration is pointless. You might as well just do completely different ones for your normal TV, gaming hdmi port. For watching normal TV one of the presets will do me.
I wonder is there a better game mode setting list available online for best picture quality.
Edit: he's now gone through them all and I'm much more satisfied. Imo doing a one suits all calibration is pointless. You might as well just do completely different ones for your normal TV, gaming hdmi port. For watching normal TV one of the presets will do me.
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Indeed. What a great way to try out a new OLED set and not have to worry about pampering it (at that value).
They weren't kidding. It's sold out now, but there was one for $999 near my family's house. Too bad there are no such deals in SoCal.
