I have a Denon x4200 and have not had any problems using a PS4 with it. As long as you are just doing passthrough for video the latency increase should be imperceptible.
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I have a Denon x4200 and have not had any problems using a PS4 with it. As long as you are just doing passthrough for video the latency increase should be imperceptible.
I have a X950G, the GUI is very fast and the picture quality is awesome. Huge step up from my X800D in both areas.
I know this is a suuuper dumb question but my OCD is acting up so I'd love for someone to put my mind at ease please :) since we're speaking of AVR's, what's the right way to hook up an avr to a tv to get best sound quality?
Both my tv (lg c8) and avr (denon x3400h) manuals recommend using an hdmi cord and to connect via HDMI port 2 (ARC). But ARC only allows compressed audio right? So I shouldn't use that? Why does it recommend doing it that way?
I think I want to avoid ARC, so right now I just have all my consoles plugged into my avr and a seperate HDMI cord from my avr to my tv but into hdmi port 4, instead of 2, to avoid ARC.
In the lg c8 sound options I left it default which was "sound out - internal speakers + optical" but I have my tv muted anyways so does that setting matter?
I wish their was a button I could press that would tell me I'm getting 5.1 uncompressed audio. But when I click info I get all my channels highlighted blue and it says the signal is multi channel pcm.
Does having things plugged in this way bad? Sorry for rambling just my OCD freaking out sorry!
Both my tv (lg c8) and avr (denon x3400h) manuals recommend using an hdmi cord and to connect via HDMI port 2 (ARC). But ARC only allows compressed audio right? So I shouldn't use that? Why does it recommend doing it that way?
I think I want to avoid ARC, so right now I just have all my consoles plugged into my avr and a seperate HDMI cord from my avr to my tv but into hdmi port 4, instead of 2, to avoid ARC.
In the lg c8 sound options I left it default which was "sound out - internal speakers + optical" but I have my tv muted anyways so does that setting matter?
I wish their was a button I could press that would tell me I'm getting 5.1 uncompressed audio. But when I click info I get all my channels highlighted blue and it says the signal is multi channel pcm.
Does having things plugged in this way bad? Sorry for rambling just my OCD freaking out sorry!
So I pulled the trigger on a tcl 5 series 43 for the bedroom.
$250 and actually has a wcg and 400 nits or so. Seems increasingly difficult to find smaller sets with good specs and I'm not willing to drop $500 on a q6 for a bedroom tv. Honestly though the q6 doesn't seem to even outclass this by much and no dv support. DV with 400ish nits I think will look pretty good. This thing supposedly does 60hz interpolation at like 10.7 lag which is nuts.
this thing would make a great pc monitor too with its response times and 444 support.
$250 and actually has a wcg and 400 nits or so. Seems increasingly difficult to find smaller sets with good specs and I'm not willing to drop $500 on a q6 for a bedroom tv. Honestly though the q6 doesn't seem to even outclass this by much and no dv support. DV with 400ish nits I think will look pretty good. This thing supposedly does 60hz interpolation at like 10.7 lag which is nuts.
this thing would make a great pc monitor too with its response times and 444 support.
ARC only comes to into play if you plug something(like a ps4)into the tvs other hdmi ports. Or if you use the internal apps of your c8. You're getting "uncompressed" sound by going the device > receiver > tv route. No need to plug in your receiver into hdmi port 4, just switch it to 2 in case you do end up using internal apps.
Thanks for that! Duh! That makes sense haha jeez I'm a dumb dumb sometimes. I know it sounds ridiculous but cause of my ocd I'd feel "safer" knowing I'm plugged into HDMI 4 instead of 2. I never use the internal apps anyways, so I'm all good with how I got things set up right now?
Thanks so much for putting my mind at ease :) have a good one bud!!
It's an absolutely fantastic TV. I don't see how anyone could have issues with it personally.
Thank you both for your response.
I think I'm gonna go with the Shield TV. I'm still an avid collector of physical media, so iTunes isn't really a perk for me. And while automatic switching sounds great, I think I'm gonna stay out of the apple ecosystem a while longer and take the increased versatility and openness of the Shield TV.
worth having a quick check if there are any apps you use on both TV and on the devices you plugged in. In some cases the TV version might be better. Eg youtube isn't 4K/hdr on Apple TV, but will be on the TV app
If it has variable refresh rate and/or if you achieve significantly more than 60fps to utilise the higher refresh rate, then yes!
So simply put, if the console games run at 60fps or less then its really not even worth the investment?
You will have lower latency on a 120 vs 60 Hz display. Particularly when the game misses a vblank.
High framerate displays are important to gaming in my opinion. I think they're worth it, but with displays it's a balancing act of a lot of factors.
Yeah, I really wanna make the jump, especially with next gen pretty much here. Although idk if I should just buy a cheap 1080p tv with 120hz motion rate or a 4k tv with 60hz. Thoughts on this?
Want to replace my 1080p Samsung 46" F5000 set from 5 years ago, and thinking of getting the Samsung UE55RU7402. (55" inch)
Mainly planning to watch movies (4k) and do some gaming.
Don't really care for HDR but if it's there and good enough it would be a plus.
Any thoughts on this Samsung set/series?
Anything bad about it I should know about/enough reason not to buy?
Any suggestions on this price range? (EU here - mostly LG alternatives as TCL are not as good as US models from what I read)
Mainly planning to watch movies (4k) and do some gaming.
Don't really care for HDR but if it's there and good enough it would be a plus.
Any thoughts on this Samsung set/series?
Anything bad about it I should know about/enough reason not to buy?
Any suggestions on this price range? (EU here - mostly LG alternatives as TCL are not as good as US models from what I read)
Samsung RU7100 Review (UN43RU7100FXZA, UN50RU7100FXZA, UN55RU7100FXZA, UN58RU7100FXZA, UN65RU7100FXZA, UN75RU7100FXZA)
The Samsung RU7100 is a good 4k LED TV that has decent overall picture quality. It can deliver deep blacks, thanks to the high native contrast ratio, and it's go...
www.rtings.com
Samsung RU7100 Review (UN43RU7100FXZA, UN50RU7100FXZA, UN55RU7100FXZA, UN58RU7100FXZA, UN65RU7100FXZA, UN75RU7100FXZA)
The Samsung RU7100 is a good 4k LED TV that has decent overall picture quality. It can deliver deep blacks, thanks to the high native contrast ratio, and it's go...
Cheers mate.
Saw that - should I assume the 7100 is the same as 7402?
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I remember paying something like $2300 for my C8 and thinking I got the deal of the century. $1600 is just getting out of hand (I almost bought one for no reason)
Just did the same. Seemed like the best deal for a 43". Hope it's good!
Thanks. This is reassuring. Just such a big purchase and I was feeling nervous. Ended up just going through Amazon to get it with a 3 year warranty. Excited to get it and set it up. Should be arriving on Thursday
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My buddy has one and I've spent a lot of time with it. Unless you're in an extremely light controlled room (aka a black box with no light) it's a beast. Really nice color, surprisingly good contrast for an LED, motion handling is top notch, etc. I'm not a fan of the Sony interface but I'm sure it's one of those things you'll get used to (or use an ATV4K).
Yeah $1600 is insane. I think maybe I'd be in for a C10 next year, depending on what Ampere timing looks like, and if they are sub $1600 around this time next year, that'd be a no brainer.
I picked it up last night. Haven't set it up yet. Hoping it's good too!
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yeah...I just want something 80" or more though. I hope they scrap the 77" and do 88" or just add an 88" to the mix.
Yeah 77 would be large in my space and tbh I would need to contemplate front projection if I was going to just say eff it and go really big.
I have done next to no keeping up on projectors in the era of 4K and HDR tho. And I think I'd still probably do motorized drop down with a 65 behind for when you aren't doing "Serious Movie Watching" or w/e.
$5K isn't too shabby for a 77", but I'm with you, I'd still like bigger if I wanted to go all out.
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I've thought many times about doing the combined projector / OLED setup but moving around HDMIs and devices seems like it would be such a hassle.
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Say I have my PS5 pro hooked up to the receiver and the receiver hooked up to my TV in the front of the room. Then, when I have to switch over to the Projector in the back of the room, what would I do?
Lol, that is one solution
Everything is coming out of the receiver right? Then just a 4K/HDR splitter from the receiver is all that is needed then no?
I did lag testing using a Leo Bodnar, with and without the AVR, and the lag figures were identical, that was without any AVR processing features.
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I guess but I'm struggling with needing a 30' HDMI cable too. Do they make ones that are reliable at 4K60?
once again, RedlineRonin helping to convince me to spend a lot more money lol
yeah you just need at least a pair of HDMI outs (x3400 has 3, so you're fine) and you run one to the tv and one to the projector. And you even have a 12v trigger too, so you could set a motorized drop down screen to roll down on a per-input basis.
hdmi wouldn't be an issue, may just need to do HDbaseT or an optical hdmi or something.
As an aside, it continues to blow my mind how feature rich AVRs are at any given price point vs how it used to be. It's awesome.
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Wait, with the 3400 I can have a screen lower AUTOMATICALLY on input switch?
Yeah that's how 12v triggers tend to work. So, on my AVM60, it's set up to essentially always be on and it goes out to my amps so anytime its on, it's active for all inputs and turns on the amps automatically and turns off (and turns off the amps) when the AVM turns off.
Same exact concept for a screen, except you're triggering power on the motorized screen, instead of amps, which you would customize to only be in for whatever inputs you think you'd use the screen for.
I would imagine the PS5 Pro would have some sort of wifi streaming that is pretty decent. Use a small streaming device to stream from the console. Or... like everyone else is saying longer 4k cord that is powered to make the distance. I would check avsforum as there are probably a few solutions from 2019 there.
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That's amazing. I'm definitely going to look into it because - while OLED is life when it comes to PQ, the thought of paying $7000-$10000 for one is terrifying
I could get a 100" screen and just go nuts.
With one cord, it really wouldn't be too much of an issue!
A receiver should be to take one input from the console. You switch the output device from the receiver to tv or projector. I did that when I was running a projector in my basement. Of course that was 1080p so a 70-80 cable worked. Your going to need a better cable that may need to be powered or at least shielded for a longer stretch @4k.
Yeahhhhh, I'm not sure on streaming. 4K and HDR blown up on 100" with video compression? Feels like it would be highly susceptible to noticeable image degradation.
Bumrush Haha, you could only resist the siren's song of the projector for so long!
We went to my parents' home for Thanksgiving, and watched Endgame on their projector. It's an InFocus SP7200. Hasn't been made in over 15 years. 720p. "Awful" contrast compared to today's projectors.
That all disappeared once the movie started - it continues to amaze me how much the scale of seeing something projected at 120" can overcome the PQ differences. To be fair, it was a $10k projector when it released... but if one looked at the specs today, they'd dismiss it out of hand. I've said it before, but despite my projector being worse on paper than my TV, the experience viewing it is significantly more engaging.
We went to my parents' home for Thanksgiving, and watched Endgame on their projector. It's an InFocus SP7200. Hasn't been made in over 15 years. 720p. "Awful" contrast compared to today's projectors.
That all disappeared once the movie started - it continues to amaze me how much the scale of seeing something projected at 120" can overcome the PQ differences. To be fair, it was a $10k projector when it released... but if one looked at the specs today, they'd dismiss it out of hand. I've said it before, but despite my projector being worse on paper than my TV, the experience viewing it is significantly more engaging.
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Right! Even if I get an 88" TV it will be wall mounted about 12' from my MLP. A 100-110" screen would be about 9' from my MLP.
I'd have some work to do (minor electrical work adding in new outlets, running a 30' HDMI cable through the ceiling, etc) but - in addition to the thought of a 100+" screen being mind blowing - it's probably waaaay more cost efficient than buying an 88" OLED