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mhayes86

Member
Oct 27, 2017
5,261
Maryland
First off, I may need a little clarification - when you say IRA, I'm assuming you mean a ROTH-type 'post-tax' retirement account vehicle? Or is it something else?

As for her results, that seems....improbable, even if the target date fund has a high bond percentage (which it shouldn't, if it's 2055 - a quick check of vanguard and fidelity has their funds at over 10% ytd growth), unless she just-so-happened to put in more money right at the 'top' of the day-to-day fluctuation multiple times - in which case she was just supremely unlucky AND you both just looked at the results super recently, with the market having just downturned.

Granted, 3k (especially if done over time) isn't gonna see a ton of actual dollar growth compared to, say, 100k, but growth still should be higher than that, lol.

Re: speaking with an advisor - just be careful - a good chunk of advisors will try to steer you towards their own custom allocations - and while some are good in that they 'could' out-perform the market overall, they almost always have much higher expense ratios that translate into more money for your advisor, no matter if you out-perform the market, or under-perform it - over the last 15 years, approx. 8 out of 10 advisors have not beaten the market overall, especially taking their fees/expense drag into consideration.

The allocation of just investing into several index funds (mainly for diversification purposes) yourself is, at least historically speaking (which admittedly doesn't guarantee future returns), the next 'least risky' stock-type option if you want to venture outside the target date funds



Depending on the IRA type and/or which brokerage you're using, you can sometimes (usually, at this point) just buy ETFs (or at least, their mutual fund index equivalents), at least at the big dogs like Vanguard or Fidelity.

The main difference between ETFs and mutual funds being that you can buy/sell ETFs immediately (like stocks), while mutual funds have to wait until end of day/market to activate buy/sell orders - though depending on which brokerage you use, you may pay brokerage fees for ETFs (though this is going away for more and more of the bigger investment firms) - ETFs are typically a little more 'liquid' capital.



Honestly, target date funds are about as 'easy'/set-and-forget as investing in the stock market gets while still offering decent(ish) returns, though they typically lag somewhat behind pure index fund options due the aforementioned bond component and higher fees/expense ratios, since they're more actively managed by someone behind the scenes changing the stock/bond allocation over time.

IMO, switching to like...3 or 4 index funds is...only a little more initial research/work, just as 'non-risky' due to diversification (if properly selected), has much lower overall expense ratios, and have historically out-performed target funds (just look at the S&P historical averages versus target funds)....but it WILL swing up and down more number-wise, especially as we're also in one of the biggest bull runs in the market's history.

IF you did go into index funds, you'd also probably want to theoretically re-balance your investments %-wise every couple of years, if not every year, and would (theoretically) have to manually re-direct some of your investments into safer/less risky options like bonds later on in life.

So it does depend on how much work/research you two wanna do.

She has a Roth IRA, so it's all post-tax contributions. I mentioned it in my initial post, but apologies for not conveying that more clearly since afterwards I just started calling it an IRA.

Anyway, I had more to say, but I finally had my wife log in on the website and I figured it out. She had her allocation target set to 70% stocks and 30% bonds, but her portfolio was 100% short term reserves with a message from vanguard saying "your current asset mix differs from your target". We were wrong all along. She doesn't have a targeted date set up at all or anything. She's only been contributing to the settlement fund, so it's money just sitting in the IRA account that hasn't been used to purchase any investments which TheTrinity brought to my attention above. What an absolute waste of time. I should have looked at this closer with her a long time ago, but thankfully we figured this out now!

You're the second person who has warned me about a financial advisor, which was the push that got me to ask on here to ease her concerns. Now that we know what our issue is, we can avoid that.

Greatly appreciate your advice! Thanks!
 
OP
OP
TheTrinity

TheTrinity

Member
Oct 25, 2017
713
She has a Roth IRA, so it's all post-tax contributions. I mentioned it in my initial post, but apologies for not conveying that more clearly since afterwards I just started calling it an IRA.

Anyway, I had more to say, but I finally had my wife log in on the website and I figured it out. She had her allocation target set to 70% stocks and 30% bonds, but her portfolio was 100% short term reserves with a message from vanguard saying "your current asset mix differs from your target". We were wrong all along. She doesn't have a targeted date set up at all or anything. She's only been contributing to the settlement fund, so it's money just sitting in the IRA account that hasn't been used to purchase any investments which TheTrinity brought to my attention above. What an absolute waste of time. I should have looked at this closer with her a long time ago, but thankfully we figured this out now!

You're the second person who has warned me about a financial advisor, which was the push that got me to ask on here to ease her concerns. Now that we know what our issue is, we can avoid that.

Greatly appreciate your advice! Thanks!

Oh dear! That's definitely what I was worried had happened. If it's any comfort, this is definitely not a unique situation. It's pretty common to encounter this confusion about how these things are just accounts and not an investment by themselves. The message about asset mix is somewhat helpful but I think these consumer bank investing platforms should do more to alert people when there's just cash sitting in retirement accounts as it's extremely unlikely that's what the client intends to do.
 
Oct 27, 2017
4,541
Recently I was let go of my job of a decade and I was wondering what the best option for rolling over my 401k would be? I have an Etrade investment account which also has a traditional Ira that was rolled over from a previous job. I also have a Roth IRA with Schwab. My current 401k(the job I was let go from) is with Fidelity. Am I able to rollover that 401k into the existing traditional(rollover) Ira in my Etrade or do I have to create a new rollover Ira? Just trying to figure out what the best course of action is. I know not to cash it out :P
 

Deleted member 5876

Big Seller
Banned
Oct 25, 2017
2,559
Recently I was let go of my job of a decade and I was wondering what the best option for rolling over my 401k would be? I have an Etrade investment account which also has a traditional Ira that was rolled over from a previous job. I also have a Roth IRA with Schwab. My current 401k(the job I was let go from) is with Fidelity. Am I able to rollover that 401k into the existing traditional(rollover) Ira in my Etrade or do I have to create a new rollover Ira? Just trying to figure out what the best course of action is. I know not to cash it out :P

You can roll it into your existing IRA if you want. Or you could wait until you get another job and roll it into your new employer's 401k. Or do both.
Personally, I always roll previous 401ks into my own IRAs because the choice of funds is much greater with usually better options. Another thing to consider is if you keep your 401k at your previous employer they may start charging you maintenance fees that were previously covered by your employer at not cost to you. One potential advantage of waiting would be if your new employer also uses Fidelity. It would make it easier to move within Fidelity.
 
Oct 27, 2017
4,541
You can roll it into your existing IRA if you want. Or you could wait until you get another job and roll it into your new employer's 401k. Or do both.
Personally, I always roll previous 401ks into my own IRAs because the choice of funds is much greater with usually better options. Another thing to consider is if you keep your 401k at your previous employer they may start charging you maintenance fees that were previously covered by your employer at not cost to you. One potential advantage of waiting would be if your new employer also uses Fidelity. It would make it easier to move within Fidelity.
Thanks for the info. I'm also trying to decide if I should roll it into a roth IRA but I'm not sure. My original plan was just to roll it into my existing ira at etrade and just move on.
 

Deleted member 5876

Big Seller
Banned
Oct 25, 2017
2,559
Thanks for the info. I'm also trying to decide if I should roll it into a roth IRA but I'm not sure. My original plan was just to roll it into my existing ira at etrade and just move on.

You can't roll your 401k into a Roth unless:
1) your 401k is a Roth 401k in which case you can roll it into a Roth IRA
2) you want to do a Backdoor Roth... which is complicated, especially if you have an existing IRA (with any brokerage) with funds in it.
 
Oct 27, 2017
4,541
You can't roll your 401k into a Roth unless:
1) your 401k is a Roth 401k in which case you can roll it into a Roth IRA
2) you want to do a Backdoor Roth... which is complicated, especially if you have an existing IRA (with any brokerage) with funds in it.

Ahh ok, I was leaning towards my existing Ira anyway, good to know, thanks
 

Soriku

Member
Nov 12, 2017
6,908
Can someone answer a math question for me? Let's say that my paycheck (gross) is $2000. So for a while now, and dunno if this is optimal or if anyone has alternative suggestions for a 20% split, but I've been trying to put 10% into my 401k (pre tax) and 10% into my Roth IRA (after tax). I looked at my paystubs for an old employer (which I had a 401k and Roth 401k) and if I made $2000/check gross they would split it like this:

$200 into 401k (10% of $2000)
$200 into Roth 401k (10% of $2000)

So this adds up to 20%.

But...looking back...is this correct? If the Roth is after tax why was it calculated to be the same amount as the pre tax 401k?

If this is incorrect how I properly calculate the 10% or whatever I'd put in my Roth? Calculate 10% of my net pay?
 

feline fury

Member
Dec 8, 2017
1,549
Can someone answer a math question for me? Let's say that my paycheck (gross) is $2000. So for a while now, and dunno if this is optimal or if anyone has alternative suggestions for a 20% split, but I've been trying to put 10% into my 401k (pre tax) and 10% into my Roth IRA (after tax). I looked at my paystubs for an old employer (which I had a 401k and Roth 401k) and if I made $2000/check gross they would split it like this:

$200 into 401k (10% of $2000)
$200 into Roth 401k (10% of $2000)

So this adds up to 20%.

But...looking back...is this correct? If the Roth is after tax why was it calculated to be the same amount as the pre tax 401k?

If this is incorrect how I properly calculate the 10% or whatever I'd put in my Roth? Calculate 10% of my net pay?
The contribution amount percentage is calculated based on your gross pay for traditional, Roth, and "after tax" contributions in my experience.

The pretax vs posttax stuff is just to determine your taxable income (gross - pretax deductions).
 

Deleted member 5876

Big Seller
Banned
Oct 25, 2017
2,559
Looking back I wish I had put more into Roth 401k when I had the chance. But they weren't a wide spread option 10/15 years ago.
My pretax account dwarfs my Roth account. I'm gonna owe a lot of taxes in retirement 😕
 

Soriku

Member
Nov 12, 2017
6,908
The contribution amount percentage is calculated based on your gross pay for traditional, Roth, and "after tax" contributions in my experience.

The pretax vs posttax stuff is just to determine your taxable income (gross - pretax deductions).

Ok thanks. Don't fully get it but just as long as that's how it's done.
 

tokkun

Member
Oct 27, 2017
5,421
Can someone answer a math question for me? Let's say that my paycheck (gross) is $2000. So for a while now, and dunno if this is optimal or if anyone has alternative suggestions for a 20% split, but I've been trying to put 10% into my 401k (pre tax) and 10% into my Roth IRA (after tax). I looked at my paystubs for an old employer (which I had a 401k and Roth 401k) and if I made $2000/check gross they would split it like this:

$200 into 401k (10% of $2000)
$200 into Roth 401k (10% of $2000)

So this adds up to 20%.

But...looking back...is this correct? If the Roth is after tax why was it calculated to be the same amount as the pre tax 401k?

If this is incorrect how I properly calculate the 10% or whatever I'd put in my Roth? Calculate 10% of my net pay?

It's true that if you are contributing equal dollar amounts, then you are technically putting more "value" into the Roth account.

If you wanted to make equal-value contributions, the (slightly simplified) formula is:

Code:
Roth / Traditional = 1 - (Marginal Income Tax Rate)

The "Marginal Income Tax Rate" can be either your current tax rate or your estimated future tax rate, depending on whether you are trying to contribute equal current value or equal future value.
 

Soriku

Member
Nov 12, 2017
6,908
It's true that if you are contributing equal dollar amounts, then you are technically putting more "value" into the Roth account.

If you wanted to make equal-value contributions, the (slightly simplified) formula is:

Code:
Roth / Traditional = 1 - (Marginal Income Tax Rate)

The "Marginal Income Tax Rate" can be either your current tax rate or your estimated future tax rate, depending on whether you are trying to contribute equal current value or equal future value.

So if I was in the 22% marginal then 1 - 22% = 0.78. So 78% of Roth would be equivalent to 100% of the 401k?

Still I'm not sure if people are doing this if they're putting 20% in retirement. If the above example $200 in 401k and $200 in Roth of $2000 gross is what people would "traditionally" consider 20% then that's what I'm looking for in the end.
 

tokkun

Member
Oct 27, 2017
5,421
So if I was in the 22% marginal then 1 - 22% = 0.78. So 78% of Roth would be equivalent to 100% of the 401k?

If you wanted to contribute equivalent current value, yes.

It's not necessarily equivalent future value because your marginal income tax rate in retirement may be different.

Still I'm not sure if people are doing this if they're putting 20% in retirement. If the above example $200 in 401k and $200 in Roth of $2000 gross is what people would "traditionally" consider 20% then that's what I'm looking for in the end.

I guess you're trying to follow some sort of rule-of-thumb about contributing 20% of your earnings that you read somewhere?

If so, maybe you are overthinking things. I mean, you are correct to observe that there is a difference in future value between equal dollar contributions to Traditional vs Roth. But the difference in future value may be somewhere in the 10-20% range for most people, and it's not like a rule-of-thumb is going to be so precise to begin with.
 

reKon

Member
Oct 25, 2017
13,778
Oh dear lord...

According to the retirement manager tool we have at work (where you link your assets different brokerage services/banks and a bunch of customized assumptions are applied), the asset allocation my 401K account at my current company should be less than 20% to stocks 💀.

I'm 32 and 1/2, and this result is not changing whether I set my retirement age at 45 (my goal) or 55, lmao...

I mean based on my asset mix, risk, and goal, I do get it...

But there's no way though that I'm willing to make that dramatic of a change now. I've said to myself at age 35, I'll target that as the time to be more aggressive in conservative investments. I'm only allocating 5% to a total bond fund.

It probably doesn't help that the retirement manager algorithms can't account for my Crypto holding and is treating it as 100% stock... Which will make my above result worse, lol (unless of course it all went to zero).

I need start thinking about which conservative investments I can get comfortable with accumulating for retirement purposes.
 

Smiley90

Member
Oct 25, 2017
8,772
Oh dear lord...

According to the retirement manager tool we have at work (where you link your assets different brokerage services/banks and a bunch of customized assumptions are applied), the asset allocation my 401K account at my current company should be less than 20% to stocks 💀.

I'm 32 and 1/2, and this result is not changing whether I set my retirement age at 45 (my goal) or 55, lmao...

I mean based on my asset mix, risk, and goal, I do get it...

But there's no way though that I'm willing to make that dramatic of a change now. I've said to myself at age 35, I'll target that as the time to be more aggressive in conservative investments. I'm only allocating 5% to a total bond fund.

It probably doesn't help that the retirement manager algorithms can't account for my Crypto holding and is treating it as 100% stock... Which will make my above result worse, lol (unless of course it all went to zero).

I need start thinking about which conservative investments I can get comfortable with accumulating for retirement purposes.

I mean, crypto holding is essentially a 100% stock. It sure isn't a bond or a currency as far as stability is concerned.

That said, at 32.... You should definitely have more than 20% stocks lol.
 

Metroidvania

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,812
Unless you're close (to the point of million(s) in the retirement account) to retiring, I can't understand why you'd need anything more than 20-30% bonds at 32, and IMO probably less**

**depending on the various other aspects of your life, both finance-wise and marital/relationship/having kids or not status**

Having a 30% (taking a rough age-as-bonds strategy) bond portfolio is suggested by some (more commonly older boglehead-type investors), but it depends on how far along your retirement saving goals you're at, plus your risk tolerance.

I'd say maaaaaybe 5-10% at 32 if you're more risk averse, unless you work for a FAANG company and you're already set to retire - IMO the target date funds already having 20+% bonds at that time is a little conservative.

However, there was a good article on one of the retirement reddits I frequent that had a tagline/quote that was similar to mike Tyson's statement about 'everyone having a plan until they get punched in the face'....that 'everyone has a plan until they suddenly lose 30+% of their savings in a short time'.

Bonds help allay/smooth out the ride (which in turn may hopefully help stave off the panic sell for any eventual severe bear market) - there was a good graph comparing various bond percentages versus 100% stocks on the same topic, and the 'dropoff' in net returns is something like going from 10% average returns to like...7.5-8ish with 20% bonds, IIRC.

Your portfolio manager trying to massively swing into bonds may also depend on what your diversification level is in your other assets - if it's treating crypto as naked stocks it's probably assuming massive volatility swings, and thus trying to lower your risk, compared to something like index funds.
 

reKon

Member
Oct 25, 2017
13,778
Unless you're close (to the point of million(s) in the retirement account) to retiring, I can't understand why you'd need anything more than 20-30% bonds at 32, and IMO probably less**

**depending on the various other aspects of your life, both finance-wise and marital/relationship/having kids or not status**

Having a 30% (taking a rough age-as-bonds strategy) bond portfolio is suggested by some (more commonly older boglehead-type investors), but it depends on how far along your retirement saving goals you're at, plus your risk tolerance.

I'd say maaaaaybe 5-10% at 32 if you're more risk averse, unless you work for a FAANG company and you're already set to retire - IMO the target date funds already having 20+% bonds at that time is a little conservative.

However, there was a good article on one of the retirement reddits I frequent that had a tagline/quote that was similar to mike Tyson's statement about 'everyone having a plan until they get punched in the face'....that 'everyone has a plan until they suddenly lose 30+% of their savings in a short time'.

Bonds help allay/smooth out the ride (which in turn may hopefully help stave off the panic sell for any eventual severe bear market) - there was a good graph comparing various bond percentages versus 100% stocks on the same topic, and the 'dropoff' in net returns is something like going from 10% average returns to like...7.5-8ish with 20% bonds, IIRC.

Your portfolio manager trying to massively swing into bonds may also depend on what your diversification level is in your other assets - if it's treating crypto as naked stocks it's probably assuming massive volatility swings, and thus trying to lower your risk, compared to something like index funds.

My total portfolio allocation probably includes around 5% bonds.

I assumed that it was giving me this allocation because I put my retirement age at 45, but then I did not see a difference at 55.

One thing I want to make clear though is that this was just for the recommended allocation for just the 401K at at my new company, which I just joined this year. The algorithm was probably just trying to balance everything out to get to a proper allocation of bonds for an earlier retirement age.

The results also did give me a recommendation to change existing allocations in all my other accounts to target 38% bonds I think? (when retirement age is set at 45).
 

Chaosblade

Resettlement Advisor
Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,606
I'm older than you and I have 0% bonds.

I wouldn't be surprised if it's treating your crypto as a liability and therefore increasing your bonds to compensate. Maybe I'm just ignorant, but I'd invest in trash like gold or real estate before even considering crypto.
 

reKon

Member
Oct 25, 2017
13,778
I'm older than you and I have 0% bonds.

I wouldn't be surprised if it's treating your crypto as a liability and therefore increasing your bonds to compensate. Maybe I'm just ignorant, but I'd invest in trash like gold or real estate before even considering crypto.
It's not considering it as crypto though. It's considering it as stock since I entered it as 100% equities as there's no category for crypto. I might try to run it again removing that account entirely to see what it projects out.

Most of my investment in crypto stems from years ago where I was buying when the cost very low so I took a calculated risk not putting in "more than what I could afford to lose" for something with a potential ridiculous high upside. Maybe roughly 3% of my net worth at a the time. It was also meant to somewhat be a hedge.

That investment has been a success so far and barely investing anymore in it these days - just mostly hold staking on some ALTs. If all crypto went to zero, it would possibly add an additional year before my target retirement?

Anyways, I'm more focused on acquiring real estate for myself and it will diversify my holdings.
 

Funny Face

Member
Dec 5, 2017
180
Really nice OP, TheTrinity! I haven't done a ton of research, but I was already leaning towards doing at least a stock/bond blend as I prepare for retirement and also using Vanguard ETF's to do so.

But let me back up. My wife and I have both been contributing for almost 15 years to our companies' 401K's and up to the limits that our employers provide matching contributions, and we will continue to do so until we retire. These funds are tied to the years when we will be able to withdraw from them without penalty (so, effectively they are target date funds, but we should be retired well before those dates). My expectation is that I'll begin drawing on my 401K at 59.5 and then supplement that at 62 (or whatever the appropriate age is in 20 years) with Social Security. We live a very frugal lifestyle and our mortgage is already paid off, so I don't anticipate that having enough money for retirement will be an issue with those two income streams.

So, my goal now is to use the next 8-9 years to build a portfolio that will create a bridge from the day that I retire at say 51-52 years of age until the time when I will start withdrawing from my hopefully robust 401K. The two simplest routes seem to be a blend of Total Stock Market/Total International Stock Market/Total Bond Market ETF's or just simply choosing the 2030 Target Fund. My biggest question is, as a long-term plan, these seem like no-brainers. But for a plan that's less than 10 years? Curious to hear people's thoughts. Thanks!
 

vypek

Member
Oct 25, 2017
12,587
Hoping next year I can do well and invest more in general and increase my financial literacy. Checked my 401k from my last job and my IRA as well as my new 401k from the new job I started since it's the last day of the year. Did well I think
 

Zip

Member
Oct 28, 2017
4,029
Really nice OP, TheTrinity! I haven't done a ton of research, but I was already leaning towards doing at least a stock/bond blend as I prepare for retirement and also using Vanguard ETF's to do so.

But let me back up. My wife and I have both been contributing for almost 15 years to our companies' 401K's and up to the limits that our employers provide matching contributions, and we will continue to do so until we retire. These funds are tied to the years when we will be able to withdraw from them without penalty (so, effectively they are target date funds, but we should be retired well before those dates). My expectation is that I'll begin drawing on my 401K at 59.5 and then supplement that at 62 (or whatever the appropriate age is in 20 years) with Social Security. We live a very frugal lifestyle and our mortgage is already paid off, so I don't anticipate that having enough money for retirement will be an issue with those two income streams.

So, my goal now is to use the next 8-9 years to build a portfolio that will create a bridge from the day that I retire at say 51-52 years of age until the time when I will start withdrawing from my hopefully robust 401K. The two simplest routes seem to be a blend of Total Stock Market/Total International Stock Market/Total Bond Market ETF's or just simply choosing the 2030 Target Fund. My biggest question is, as a long-term plan, these seem like no-brainers. But for a plan that's less than 10 years? Curious to hear people's thoughts. Thanks!

Long time frames are the most reliable. Short time frames could be hit by big downturns in the market. You'd probably need to think about the ratio splits you want between the different safe/riskier investments, based on your age and time frame.
 

Bacon

Member
Oct 26, 2017
1,632
This was the first year I was able to really get a handle on my finances in a big way. Maxed out my Roth for the first time ever (29 years old). Wish I had done it sooner but I'm glad I finally got there. Big shoutouts to the regulars of this thread providing advice! Happy new year everyone.
 

Fuhgeddit

#TeamThierry
Member
Oct 27, 2017
8,740
So I opened up a new account for our newborn daughter and was investing in FSKAX but it's not open to new investors. Anyone have any recommendations for total stock market fund that is similar to FSKAX?
 

vypek

Member
Oct 25, 2017
12,587
$6k going to the IRA today, get them funded for 2022!
(Ok, sure it'll go on Monday, but whatever)
I'm debating on whether or not I want to do this as well. I know that lump sum is supposed to hear dollar cost averaging, but if I do the whole $6k it will leave me below the threshold I want to maintain for my savings account.

Maybe I'll just lump sum thebl amount right up until the threshold and then do the rest later. And then I won't have to worry about doing any deposits for the rest of the year like I normally do
 

Metroidvania

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,812
yeah, maybe I'll just invest in that in that fidelity account!

Just FYI with this, depending on which account type you have/are using, Fidelity, unless something has changed from the last time I looked, will pass on the transaction/commission fee to you for buying Vanguard's proprietary fund(s).

Though I was not aware of any news on FSKAX being closed for new investors, that seems odd.

Maybe I'll just lump sum the amount right up until the threshold and then do the rest later. And then I won't have to worry about doing any deposits for the rest of the year like I normally do

Historically speaking, lump sum investing beats DCA'ing approximately 2/3 of the time, but we are definitely in a weird spot with the market and/or the pandemic right now.

Doing 'both' lump sum for a chunk, then DCA'ing the rest, isn't a bad idea, IMO.
 

SolarPowered

Member
Oct 28, 2017
2,215
I'm debating on whether or not I want to do this as well. I know that lump sum is supposed to hear dollar cost averaging, but if I do the whole $6k it will leave me below the threshold I want to maintain for my savings account.

Maybe I'll just lump sum thebl amount right up until the threshold and then do the rest later. And then I won't have to worry about doing any deposits for the rest of the year like I normally do
I'm thinking of just putting in as much as I make a month post tax. Most people with hefty liquid savings should be done with their ira contributions by late March at that rate. Still watching out for moderate dips in the economy these first three months, though. Omicron is just looking for a chance to mess our day up.
 

Soriku

Member
Nov 12, 2017
6,908
I keep going back and forth on whether I wanna invest in bonds at this time. As in something like 10-20%. For reference I'm 27.
 
OP
OP
TheTrinity

TheTrinity

Member
Oct 25, 2017
713
We've got like 1% bonds between us and we're 33. Take from that what you will.
It's not going to ruin your portfolio or anything but 10-20% bonds generally creates around a 1-2% drag on returns.

The thing is, the purpose of bonds is to take the hit on overall returns in trade for stability but I cannot think of a reason why you would care about stability at 27.
 

Smiley90

Member
Oct 25, 2017
8,772
We've got like 1% bonds between us and we're 33. Take from that what you will.
It's not going to ruin your portfolio or anything but 10-20% bonds generally creates around a 1-2% drag on returns.

The thing is, the purpose of bonds is to take the hit on overall returns in trade for stability but I cannot think of a reason why you would care about stability at 27.

Downpayment for a house maybe?
 

Smiley90

Member
Oct 25, 2017
8,772
not in retirement accounts.

You can use SOME of they money in an 401k/RRSP if you're a first-time homebuyer penalty-free, pretty sure. Not the greatest idea, but you can. (I think it's 10'000 for a 401k?)

The poster that mentioned 10-20% bonds didn't specify that it was in a 401k/IRA, could be just a margin account too.
 

RoKKeR

Member
Oct 25, 2017
15,404
Historically speaking, lump sum investing beats DCA'ing approximately 2/3 of the time, but we are definitely in a weird spot with the market and/or the pandemic right now.

Doing 'both' lump sum for a chunk, then DCA'ing the rest, isn't a bad idea, IMO.
Came to this thread as I'm pondering the same thing right now. This past year I just did monthly DCA up to the 6,000 amount, but maybe this year I'll do 3k up front and then spread the rest out over the year.
 

Soriku

Member
Nov 12, 2017
6,908
We've got like 1% bonds between us and we're 33. Take from that what you will.
It's not going to ruin your portfolio or anything but 10-20% bonds generally creates around a 1-2% drag on returns.

The thing is, the purpose of bonds is to take the hit on overall returns in trade for stability but I cannot think of a reason why you would care about stability at 27.

You can use SOME of they money in an 401k/RRSP if you're a first-time homebuyer penalty-free, pretty sure. Not the greatest idea, but you can. (I think it's 10'000 for a 401k?)

The poster that mentioned 10-20% bonds didn't specify that it was in a 401k/IRA, could be just a margin account too.

This would just be a in a 401k/Trad IRA. I've been reading it would make more sense in those accounts than taxable or Roth IRA.

That said, I think I'm gonna hold off on bonds for the moment...

Side note, regarding the above I'm also trying to seriously start looking into a house in the next year. That said I don't have a specific timeline so I'm keeping like $10k in my HYSA (could maybe go lower but that's what I've decided for now...) and the rest just going into my taxable with FSKAX (disregarding what I'm putting into retirement accounts). As I have no timeline I'm willing to risk some volatility for some good extra gains as opposed to just making 0.50% with my bank. But that's me.
 

vypek

Member
Oct 25, 2017
12,587
Historically speaking, lump sum investing beats DCA'ing approximately 2/3 of the time, but we are definitely in a weird spot with the market and/or the pandemic right now.

Doing 'both' lump sum for a chunk, then DCA'ing the rest, isn't a bad idea, IMO.
Yeah, I think I might try that out.

I'm thinking of just putting in as much as I make a month post tax. Most people with hefty liquid savings should be done with their ira contributions by late March at that rate. Still watching out for moderate dips in the economy these first three months, though. Omicron is just looking for a chance to mess our day up.
Yeah hard to tell how things might go. I don't know if I'll be done by march but we'll see
 
Jan 29, 2018
9,414
That time if year when I know I should just fully fund my Roth IRA and be done with it but I hate seeing my savings account go down by so much. I still have $1600 left to contribute for 2021, too...
 

FliX

Master of the Reality Stone
Moderator
Oct 25, 2017
9,896
Metro Detroit
I have a couple big ticket items to pay for in the coming months, so my IRA will have to wait a bit... 😭
 
Oct 27, 2017
4,541
I just rolled over my 401k from my previous employer to my etrade rollover account. Anybody have any suggestions on index funds to invest in? I already invest in a bunch of ETFs in my regular trading account like MGK, DIA, SPY, VDC, VIG, and VO. Should I just spread it with those as well or do you have any other suggestions?
 

Chaosblade

Resettlement Advisor
Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,606
I hesitantly did 100% of my IRA for the year. Normally glad to do it ASAP, but it left my savings a little lower than I'm comfortable with this year. But between work bonus and tax refund in the next couple months I'll more than top my savings back off and have next year's contribution underway.
 

Metroidvania

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,812
Got a big bonus and I immediately maxed out my ROTH IRA For 2022. Am I doing this right?

Depends, did you move it out of a money market account and into an actual stock/index fund assortment whose volatility you can stomach?

(It sounds silly, but there was a similar comment I saw somewhere on reddit in November of someone wondering why their 6k in a Fidelity account in January only made like... 100 dollars up to that point in time in 2021, RIP)
 

PspLikeANut

Free
Member
May 20, 2018
2,598
Depends, did you move it out of a money market account and into an actual stock/index fund assortment whose volatility you can stomach?

(It sounds silly, but there was a similar comment I saw somewhere on reddit in November of someone wondering why their 6k in a Fidelity account in January only made like... 100 dollars up to that point in time in 2021, RIP)
Yes, I moved it into a 2055 Target date retirement fund (90% stocks, 10% bonds current allocation).
 
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TheTrinity

TheTrinity

Member
Oct 25, 2017
713
I just rolled over my 401k from my previous employer to my etrade rollover account. Anybody have any suggestions on index funds to invest in? I already invest in a bunch of ETFs in my regular trading account like MGK, DIA, SPY, VDC, VIG, and VO. Should I just spread it with those as well or do you have any other suggestions?

Why do you have so many? I have 2 (Canada and Not-Canada). It's just easier to avoid trying to fiddle with things the fewer you have. And the decision making is easy once you've decided on an allocation.