I have got to stop refreshing every hour to see if there is news on the new 2018 models. Surely it won't be until next month.
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TCL P607/605 thread (GOAT budget 4K HDR TV)
- Thread starter Karish
- Start date
What about roku apps or something to get it done? It seems like it should be achievable...
The P series according to Rtings gamma 2.2 tracks at closer when set to 2.0. Its been a game changer for me. I don't get black crush and HDR is brighter. Sea of Thieves looks beautiful! On Netflix Altered Carbon w/ Dolby Vision is stunning. As a previous high end Sony TV owner and Im still surprised by the value of this TV.
If you have this tv and a capable UHD player, be sure to pick up Blue Planet 2. The HDR is really highlighted here with beautiful colors. I think so far I might be more impressed with it than Planet Earth 2 if only because how colorful the ocean life is. Wow.
If I can score this model at a "can't pass this up" price, should I bite or do I definitely wait for the 2018? I saw it mentioned earlier that the 2018 models will do native 120hz at 1080p, that's big for me as I also plan on using my pc on it. Can these models also do that?
Right? Trying to keep patience when you want to upgrade gets tough. Hopefully soon.
This isn't meant to be snarky, but when it's said that these TVs have a "good picture quality thanks to their black levels", is this only in comparison to other LEDs within a similar price range? A good friend of mine ended up taking his out of the box yesterday, and after spending a few hours messing with the options, could only get a picture that looked OK at best, and not actually all that much better than his four year old, cheapy Samsung that he had in the living room. Maybe it's just having spent the better part of the last decade on a plasma and then going to an OLED, but almost nothing about it actually looked good to me. We tried various games on the Pro that had HDR as well as a few UHDs, and either the screen looked entirely washed out, or if we had it at an acceptable brightness, the black levels looked OK, but some things were crushed and even though it was displaying that HDR was active, you couldn't tell.
On top of that, a few games that were supposed to be 4Kina through checkerboard looked blurry, like it was 1080p, with or without game mode (which made the local dimming awful and halos abound). I also read that these TVs have good motion handling, yet in any action scene in a movie, there are some really bad artifacts/ghosting going on like I haven't seen on a TV or monitor since 2006.
He primarily bought the TV for gaming, and to have something to take with him for his gaming service, but he was also hoping for something that would at least show off the potential of movies. For gaming at least, I guess it's fine for most, but for movies it doesn't really demonstrate anything.
edit: So it looks like the gamma can only be adjusted from your phone, and even though the TV is displaying an HDR mode, if you don't manually set the HDMI inputs to 2.0, they aren't actually going to be using WCG/HDR or even outputting at 4K?
On top of that, a few games that were supposed to be 4Kina through checkerboard looked blurry, like it was 1080p, with or without game mode (which made the local dimming awful and halos abound). I also read that these TVs have good motion handling, yet in any action scene in a movie, there are some really bad artifacts/ghosting going on like I haven't seen on a TV or monitor since 2006.
He primarily bought the TV for gaming, and to have something to take with him for his gaming service, but he was also hoping for something that would at least show off the potential of movies. For gaming at least, I guess it's fine for most, but for movies it doesn't really demonstrate anything.
edit: So it looks like the gamma can only be adjusted from your phone, and even though the TV is displaying an HDR mode, if you don't manually set the HDMI inputs to 2.0, they aren't actually going to be using WCG/HDR or even outputting at 4K?
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Sure he got the P series and not the S series? S series is the one with fake-HDR and people complain looks washed out. And probably wouldn't be much better than any other generic LCD
If he has the P series then there's something off in his settings or expectations if "not much better than a cheapy 4 year old Samsung" to put it bluntly. If you're expecting this $600 LED to compare to an OLED that's way more expensive, then that's also a problem. This is a budget LED, it's $600. It punches above its weight class and at the time there wasn't anything better unless you were looking to spend about twice as much or more. It's not meant to compare with OLEDs (OLEDs are several times more expensive for a reason).
Yes you want to make sure the HDMI input is set to 2.0 or you're probably not going to get WCG/HDR.
Also, you shouldn't be touching the actual brightness setting, leave it at the default 50 setting. Anything higher increases the black level too much.
Also, HDR games are hit and miss. Some look great. Some of them have issues (btw did they ever fix the washed out cutscenes in SW:BFII when the game is set to HDR?). Monster Hunter World also displays HDR incorrect, it basically eliminates any black levels and washes everything out, hopefully they fix it soon. I wouldn't judge the TVs HDR based on games.
But yeah, I've had Panasonic Viera plasmas and higher end LCDs before this. This P series TCL is better than my Viera plasma in almost every way, except motion resolution and viewing angles (plasma was basically perfect in this). My previous LCDs however don't come close.
Edit: the bit you mentioned about game mode affecting local dimming is weird, there's literally like no difference for me in switching game mode on and off. I have not noticed anything as "awful or halos abound"
He got the TCL 605p
I just got back from his house too after rechecking some things, and I think the only other thing left to do is to bring my Oppo over to his house. We played a few movies via One S, and while the black bars were obviously not going to be like on an OLED, they weren't even close to plasma, or even some older LCDs I've seen either and all glowed pretty badly. I thought this TV had local dimming? Worse than that though, many of the scenes still looked quite blurry for some reason, almost like it was either displaying in 1080p, or it had a double dose of chromatic aberration (which is impossible, that's just what it looked like).
Also, as it turns out, the TV was actually set to auto by default and it was already correctly displaying WCG/HDR. I switched them to 2.0 to see if there was any difference, but there wasn't. It looked identical, and having it manually set to 2.0 or auto produced the same results with the HDR notification appearing on the upper right hand corner. My issues it seems are just the way the TV looks. We also setup the Roku app to change the gamma, but 2.2 is was already the default, and good for where he was viewing it. I told him that he would want to lower it for events in brighter conditions, or if it looked like too many details were missing in dark areas for his liking. I also actually had all of the settings matching what Rtings.com recommended before even reading theirs, other than remembering the HDMI input might need to be adjusted (I did that for my TV a year and a half ago then forgot about it)too. I don't know. Maybe he just got unlucky with the panel, or it really is just an issue with the panel technology. Maybe this seems extra nitpicky, and it's not even my TV, but IMO just watching 1080p movies on his 2010 plasma looked nicer. I'd even argue most games looked better too.
edit: Game mode absolutely makes a difference in the black levels. It's a cloudy mess with it on. The intros for both TLOU and Uncharted 4 with the ND logo are pure black (which was really surprising) outside of game mode. Inside game mode it almost looks like the brightness was raised to 55-60 and there are areas all over the screen that look like pockets of major backlight bleed. It's awful. Because of the way the intro looked outside of game mode, I expected movies to look similar, but they don't even come close.
I just got back from his house too after rechecking some things, and I think the only other thing left to do is to bring my Oppo over to his house. We played a few movies via One S, and while the black bars were obviously not going to be like on an OLED, they weren't even close to plasma, or even some older LCDs I've seen either and all glowed pretty badly. I thought this TV had local dimming? Worse than that though, many of the scenes still looked quite blurry for some reason, almost like it was either displaying in 1080p, or it had a double dose of chromatic aberration (which is impossible, that's just what it looked like).
Also, as it turns out, the TV was actually set to auto by default and it was already correctly displaying WCG/HDR. I switched them to 2.0 to see if there was any difference, but there wasn't. It looked identical, and having it manually set to 2.0 or auto produced the same results with the HDR notification appearing on the upper right hand corner. My issues it seems are just the way the TV looks. We also setup the Roku app to change the gamma, but 2.2 is was already the default, and good for where he was viewing it. I told him that he would want to lower it for events in brighter conditions, or if it looked like too many details were missing in dark areas for his liking. I also actually had all of the settings matching what Rtings.com recommended before even reading theirs, other than remembering the HDMI input might need to be adjusted (I did that for my TV a year and a half ago then forgot about it)too. I don't know. Maybe he just got unlucky with the panel, or it really is just an issue with the panel technology. Maybe this seems extra nitpicky, and it's not even my TV, but IMO just watching 1080p movies on his 2010 plasma looked nicer. I'd even argue most games looked better too.
edit: Game mode absolutely makes a difference in the black levels. It's a cloudy mess with it on. The intros for both TLOU and Uncharted 4 with the ND logo are pure black (which was really surprising) outside of game mode. Inside game mode it almost looks like the brightness was raised to 55-60 and there are areas all over the screen that look like pockets of major backlight bleed. It's awful. Because of the way the intro looked outside of game mode, I expected movies to look similar, but they don't even come close.
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A high end properly calibrated Plasma still produces an amazing picture. Outside of HDR the difference between these budget screens and plasmas is not so great.
There's something off there, maybe it's faulty and the local dimming isn't activating cause if the blacks aren't comparing to older LCDs then there's something wrong point blank. When the local dimming is activating properly (and set to high) it will result in pitch black or really inky blacks for those areas that are turning off.
Are you sure you're not confusing local contrast with dynamic contrast setting?
Is the TV firmware updated? Game Mode didn't allow for Local Contrast (local dimming) in early firmwares. Also if it's been the first time you switch to game mode, it defaults to turning off the local contrast. You have to turn it back on that first time (if the TV firmware is updated). When the local dimming is off, you'll get a lot of backlight bleed and gray blacks but there shouldn't be any reason for local dimming to be off (and when it's on you should have it to high).
Edit: after reading again, it does sound like something is wrong with his set. Blurriness and double chromatic aberration-like effects? No idea what's going on there sorry lol. I get razer sharp 4K out of my devices and it's a huge step up from 1080p for sources that can toggle between.
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Dynamic Contrast isn't on in any mode. It's also locked out in game mode. I set Local Contrast to High, and yes, the firmware is updated. It's the very first thing I did before messing with any of the other settings.
I guess I should have been more specific too about it not competing with older LCDs. It doesn't compete with VA panels, and it actually looks like an IPS for watching non full screen content. The other thing I might actually be noticing are problems with the off angle viewing. I read that was actually pretty shitty (like most TN panels), but even looking directly center it seemed off.
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Try going back to advanced settings to turn local contrast back on when turning on game mode then, it turns if off by default the first time you switch to it. If local contrast is turning off in game mode and you can't fix it, there's something wrong with the set (if it's updated to current firmware) that should not be happening. There is only backlight bleed when local dimming is off and it turning on game mode should not elevate black levels unless it's earlier firmware and thus deactivating local contrast.
Edit: VA panels without local dimming shouldn't even compare to this set with local dimming. Let alone IPS. With local contrast turned off, yes this tv's blacks are lcd-average if that and results in huge backlight bleed (especially in corners), but turning on the local dimming fixes all that. I don't even know why it's an option to turn it off.
It's set to High. Turning on Game Mode doesn't turn it off either. Or rather, if it ever did, it hasn't since the first time.
I would reset the TV something is off/wrong cause what you're describing sounds like it's deactivating the local dimming when it should NOT be doing that.
I can load up a game/movie get to a really dark scene and switch between game mode on/off it does not effect the local dimming or black levels at all.
Turning off the local contrast does make it look kinda shitty though, introducing back light bleed and blacks that are no better than an average LCD.
The way you're describing it does sound more and more like something is either faulty, or we're missing something obvious. I dunno what to tell ya
Oh yeah I forgot to mention, the built in interface and apps disable local dimming until a video is played then it turns it on (if you have local dimming on in the settings). So you'll notice that like on some menu screens of Netflix and stuff, even though the local dimming is set to on, it will be disabled in the menus and you'll get greyish blacks and probably notice some backlight bleed but as soon as you play a video it kicks the local dimming on.
As far as I know, this is expected behavior for the built in Roku interface and apps and I havent heard of anyone having this behavior outside of the built in Roku menus.
I'd double and triple check that the tv is on latest or maybe try to reset the TV cause it sounds like something funny is happening with his game mode and local dimming behavior.
As far as I know, this is expected behavior for the built in Roku interface and apps and I havent heard of anyone having this behavior outside of the built in Roku menus.
I'd double and triple check that the tv is on latest or maybe try to reset the TV cause it sounds like something funny is happening with his game mode and local dimming behavior.
Thanks. I won't actually be able to check for another week, but I'll let him know over the phone and try to convince him to look (he's ridiculously lazy in that regard). It very well might be an issue with Game Mode turning off Local Contrast and we just aren't noticing the option shutting off, since when we shut Game Mode off and scroll back up, it's on. I would think that if Game Mode was turning it off that you would have to manually turn it back on once outside of Game Mode. Unless Game Mode is literally acting like a seperate picture mode for picture options, specifically for Local Contrast alone, since everything else stays the same as the previous mode. I read that it didn't even work at all inside of Game Mode before the firmware update, and that after it should be working the same in any mode. It has the latest update.
I've just never seen a Game Mode set within another picture mode. Normally you would either rename an input or simply select Game Mode from the available picture modes, not change a setting withing an already existing one. On the sets I've seen at least, so maybe that is actually the norm. I thought all it was doing in this case was simply shutting off most postprocessing effects, and that was it. The other options (most notably color temp) didn't seem to change from what I had set them to. None of this is going to affect UHD playback, but at least games should look better if the problem is as simple as that.
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Nope, if you turn game mode back off, it (local dimming) will go back to the setting it was on before Game Mode was enabled (on) in your case. You/he has to go turn on local dimming after enabling game mode the first time.
You're right in that it basically acts like a separate picture setting for local dimming. And it will be like this for the different picture settings as well.
Opposite. RTINGS suggests using 2.0 setting as it measures closer to the ideal gamma when using their settings.
Yeah I think it's a recent re-look at the TV video they posted where they mention it. I haven't seen it myself yet though but someone else mentioned it.
Which I agree is confusing since their initial review stated to use 2.2.
No. Rtings never updated their site but published a new video, watch it. Set gamma to 2.0. That actually tracks at 2.2, strange I know. : ) Also set your backlight to 4.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buSiu_l6tFw&t=7s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buSiu_l6tFw&t=7s
Backlight to 4? I have mine at 100 which they also say to do in their guide
Backlight to 4? Is this for SDR or HDR? If I remember correctly they had SDR backlight at 0 for SDR and 100 for HDR in their review.
Does the video say to drop it down from 100 when HDR now? That's a big difference if so.
Edit: sorry can't view video right now but curious
My understanding is unless you really want the remote with the headphone jack (and you can use the phone app to do the same on the 605), it's effectively the same in any other ways that matter. If others know more, they can pop in.
In the video, for HDR they recommend 100 (which is how it is on OLED as well), and said that it doesn't matter for SDR and to just adjust it to whatever suits your room. The video starts out with them having theirs set to 4. I have no idea what kind of a difference 4 is going to make over 0 though.
Oh ok, so nothing different there then cool thanks for the video clarification!
I only do it once a week. My TV has been failing since October, and my money for a 4K TV is sitting my account since I got my tax return. I decided that if I could wait from October until now, I could wait for the new model especially since they are going to be 65". Got my PS4 Pro at least, so 1 upgrade down. (My dad is enjoying how much faster Netflix is on his PS4 is over the PS3 he had, he also got and upgrade via hand me down)
I tried changing to 2.0 last night while watching the first ep of Jessica Jones season 2. Was an immediate improvement.
Did you watch Altered Carbon, it looks great w/ HDR. Regarding those who question the backlight set to 4, thats just for SDR. When watching HDR content all you need to do is set "TV Brightness" to "Brighter". The TCL P automatically goes into torch mode by maxing out the backlight.
no offense but it sounds like you guys didn't know what to expect the tv to look like, and you haven't done your research on settings. either that or he got a set with all kinds of problems.
I've never really known how trusty the distances are, but a guide on google says that for 55", distance should be 6.9-11.5 feet.
If you had read my posts, the settings were all correct, other than maybe Local Contrast within Game Mode, which has nothing to do with movies or the way games look outside of Game Mode. It also should have zero effect on artifacts/ghosting or the games looking like 1080p when they aren't supposed to be. Maybe he did get a bad set, although without doing a random side by side comparison with another 605, I don't know how he's supposed to know, since everything appears to work. As for expectations, when pretty much everyone is claiming these are the sets to get for the cost, and some even saying to get them if you cannot afford an OLED, I would at least expect a good looking picture; and maybe they have one if you're just coming from years of other LCD/LEDs. Which was explained in my first post.
That's way too far for 4K with a 55''. Even the minimum six feet is considered the maximum by most recommendations. Seems like you looked at recommendations for 1080p.
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i mean, you were talking about the black bars in movies. it should have been obvious right then that local dimming wasn't on. the complaint about things looking blurry i sn't something i've seen about this tv, so i don't know what's going on there. also, saying it looked like an IPS panel tells me that somethings off. regardless of hdr, the contrast of this panel is extremely good for an lcd/led. it should not look like an ips panel. you haven't posted the full settings you're using, so i don't know what's going on.
It should have "been obvious" that the Local Dimming wasn't on? Except it was on, and it has the same glow/shimmer that a cheap IPS TV has. I also said that my settings were exactly the same as the Rtings.com settings, and I had them setup that way before even looking at them.
Whatever man. I'm done debating this with you, because it was very much ON.
if the black bars weren't completely black, then the local dimming wasn't on.
okay, but i'm not debating anyhing. i'm telling you that you're wrong. if the black bars were illuminated like that, then the FALD wasn't on and working.
Good to know. So there are then three levels of dimming then, and I've only been experiencing two. One is with Local Contrast OFF, the other is with it ON, but apparently it's only partially working (there is an obvious difference with it on and off too, because with it off, the bars are a really bright gray), and then there's ON with it actually working, which I guess we aren't seeing.
/shrug
It's as though you read a single post and then just decided to reply with how much of an idiot I am or something, despite the fact that I've actually set the TV up correctly, and I know the differences between the Local Contrast settings. I even mentioned how surprised I was at the good looking black levels at the start of two games outside of Game Mode (it was solid black), and how I expected a similar result with movies, but there wasn't one.
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there is low, medium, high, and off. high is recommended and makes the biggest difference, but even on low it should keep the bars from being lit up too much.
The whole "it didn't even look like 1080p it was blurry" thing you keep mentioning is kinda worrying that the set might be defective.
How was everything hooked up? Was his devices going through the TV itself or through a soundbar or AVR via passthrough?
I ask cause I have a Bose ST300 system that has an HDMI in with 4K/HDR pass through so I tried hooking up one of my 4K/HDR devices through it cause the TV has an ARC HDMI, but it causes issues with the TV (I think the TV's ARC HDMI is the issue since it doesn't happen with the other HDMIs). Sometimes it works but often it struggles and displays artifacts OR it makes 4K/HDR look super pixelated and blurry.
It's like the TVs ARC HDMI (HDMI 3) has issues receiving the signal from the Bose while having to still do its ARC duties for the other devices. I thought it was the Bose but I swapped it out and bought new high speed certified cables and the issues remained. Issue TOTALLY went away if I plugged the Bose into the other TV HDMI inputs but then I would lose the audio from from the other devices plugged into the TV going to the Bose since it's not plugged into the ARC HDMI. In the end it was a non issue since the Switch isn't 4K/HDR so it works fine in the Bose HDMI in while leaving the Bose plugged into the TVs ARC HDMI and having my other two 4K/HDR devices plugged into the TV.
But yeah, moral of the story is at least for me, I had issue with the TVs ARC HDMI displaying correctly when going through another device passthrough. Might just be my TV though being defective but it's a non issue for me and my setup luckily.
We simply ran two Twisted Veins "4K" specced cables directly from the systems to the TV, although I told him that he might be pushing it with fifteen feet, since it's recommended right now to not go beyond six if you can help it if you're trying to hit 4K/60 with anything. Even then, at least the systems were showing that they were outputting in 2160p/HDR, although I couldn't find an option anywhere for the TV itself to display what's being shown. The TV would at least give the HDR notification though.
What's going on with movies sounds like the same issue the Xbox One S had near launch, but his system has been updated to the most recent update (plus, we've used the same system on my TV and it didn't look like this), so that shouldn't actually be the problem. Like I previously said, the only thing left for me to do is to bring over my Oppo. We were only using the first and second inputs too. I'm also wondering what lightning conditions most people here are using. The room we were in wasn't completely black, but it was fairly dark with no lights on.
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FWIW when I had the issue on my setup it was still displaying the output as 4K/HDR, it just wasn't displaying right (pixelated).
And yeah that HDMI length is really long for 4k/HDR/60 maximum bandwidth but I've never used anything longer than 6ft so I don't have experience with longer cables to add any input.
It's either a faulty set, or you're overlooking something obvious. Post a picture of all his settings next time you go over and if you can a picture of how the local dimming isn't activating (if you can, might be hard with a phone camera if you don't have an app with manual controls to expose the pic).
Blurry 4K that doesn't look like 1080p, and gray blacks with the local dimming not activating are not normal things. They way you're putting it makes it sound like the TV is broken.
No it won't meet OLED levels, but at the same time no "cheapy old Samsung" will meet this TV. Nor should any IPS panel black levels even be in the same ballpark as this set with local dimming working. I never have grey letterboxes, the only time I can see the letterbox bars not be super black (basically off) is when there's a mostly bright scene or area of super peak brightness near the borders and some of that brightness will affect the border ever so slightly but that's going from like pitch black to like dark black.
I have a BenQ VA LED monitor, an LG 4K IPS monitor, a Viera Plasma, a couple Samsung and Sony LEDs in the other rooms as well so I'm pretty well versed in good, decent, below average contrast and black levels and gray blacks (lol IPS and Samsung. My Sony LED is VA and has decent contrast and black levels though but still not in the league of the TCL with local dimming). Viera plasma had rich comparable blacks but peak brightness not in the same league obviously.
I just watched 8 episodes of the new Jessica Jones S2 with my GF last night (as in during night with lights off, although I do have bias lighting) and there several times where the blacks blend in with the bezel. It happens often since Jessica has rich black hair and always wears the same fucking black leather jacket in every episode. And although this show isn't really going to have many HDR peak brightness showcases, there were a few scenes that do remind you how cool HDR is (there was one episode where a guy is changing a lightbulb in a lamp and the bulb was super fucking bright compared to everything else, then the next scene starts with some big bulb mirror lights and again it was really cool to see how HDR shows them off).
Edit: speaking of Jessica Jones S2, does anyone dislike Marvels use of film grain in their Netflix shows? I know it's probably intentional but some scenes almost make me think something went wrong in post or something cause of how strong it is in bright scenes lol. It's jarring for a few seconds going from a nice clean 4K image like Altered Carbon, to the grainy as fuck <insert any Marvel Netflix series here>. It's still super sharp but the digital noise they add takes a few minutes to get used to.
Double edit: as far as settings, I have most of the settings as Rtings had it but I have a spyder Pro colorimeter that I use to calibrate my gray scale and also a DVE with color filter to calibrate the color and tint (for SDR) so I have customer advanced settings for the colorspace (no one should be copying rtings colorspace settings as they're per panel specific) and stuff. But the basic settings are mostly the same.
The only thing that differs for me is the TV Brightness I basically never have as Darkest since Rtings calibrates it to a pitch black theater room. I switch between normal and brighter depending on daylight or night but usually I'll leave it on one and forget it mostly.
I also use a different Dolby HDR brightness too since I think the Dolby presets actually work differently than the reg HDR brightness settings. The HDR brightness settings are literally just different presets, you can make them all look identical if you match the settings the same but the Dolby presets actually alter the brightness no matter if you match the settings across all 3 of them. So I stay away from the dim one.
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If this was my TV, I would dive deeper into it, since I'd have all the time I needed before making a decision. I have the DVE HD basics disc with the filter, Spears & Munsil version 2, tons of contrast, brightness slides and a few for gamma as well as the more recently released HDR disc from Diversified. I didn't have all day to mess around with the set and read forums, get the perfect lightning conditions (which would be hard since he's going to be using it in multiple lightning conditions anyway, and I would have basically had to double the settings, with the second being a "best guess"). Didn't have time to use the i1, but I know my friend wouldn't care anyway since most of what he's been viewing over the last decade has been pretty crummy, aside from his plasma that he infrequently uses since it's not in the family room.
He's also unfortunately the kind of person that would think he was getting an amazing picture out of the box, regardless of what it actually looks like just because it's a 4K TV that can display HDR content and also because he's also not used to playing anything at higher resolutions on PC. He can't even seem to tell the difference between the IQ of an OLED and other panel types either. He also can't seem to tell the difference between an improperly calibrated 3D projector at the theater (they destroy the overall contrast and color saturation) compared to projectors that are actually set to the necessary lumens. Although he once commented on how much more detailed an episode of Game of Thrones seemed to look on my TV than what he watched at home. This was comparing an episode from the Blu-ray at six and a half feet from a 55'' and one from cable on a 42'' at over twelve feet though...
Despite that, I actually did do a good job of dialing in the settings, other than maybe the already discussed Local Contrast within Game Mode, if that's actually even a factor right now, because it very well could still be on as I thought it was. Yet again, that would still have no bearing with what I'm seeing outside of Game Mode, since I know the TV is very capable at displaying what looks like a pure black screen.
Since he's going to be using it in variable settings, "Movie" is just too dark, so I had his set to "Normal", although I did switch it back to Movie just to see if it made any difference with the issues I was noticing. It's more a "me" thing than anything though. He's too lazy to do his own research and relies on my input more than he should, and since I was the one who recommended this set, I feel obligated towards getting it to look good. I don't know that I could convince him into exchanging it though if this is just another panel lottery issue either. I even noticed some really bad uniformity issues on just the PS4 dashboard, which led to an exaggerated DSE. He didn't seem to be able to see what I was seeing when I mentioned it. Reading up after the fact, these sets scored very low in that regard. Actually the worst on Rtings.
That is the ONE thing I can confidently tell you is not a YOU thing or that something might be wrong with the settings. This TV varies wildely with uniformity. At best you'll get bad uniformity in the corners, at worse it'll be all over the screen. I've seen some pictures ranging from all over. I luckily got a decent set with the corners (the rest of the screen is good but not perfect uniformity but I don't notice in 99% of content since it's minimal. The immediate corners though are the noticeable areas in my set in bright area though.
Most people (like your buddy, or my girlfriend or brother) won't notice bad uniformity though, but people like you and I can clearly see them.
I just picked up the BB version. I have a few quick questions please. I'm new to 4k.
I have 3 hdmi devices and the tv has 3 but 1 is hdmi arc. Will I need to use a 4k splitter? I only know that arc is for audio.
Do I need to purchase new high speed 2.0 hdmi cords for my PS Pro and Xbox X.
Thank you for any info you might be able to provide.
I have 3 hdmi devices and the tv has 3 but 1 is hdmi arc. Will I need to use a 4k splitter? I only know that arc is for audio.
Do I need to purchase new high speed 2.0 hdmi cords for my PS Pro and Xbox X.
Thank you for any info you might be able to provide.