I need to replace the sealant in my trail bike. Tyres will hold, but then go down after a couple of days.
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Bicycle ERA |OT| This Is Why
- Thread starter Jill Sandwich
- Start date
I know someone with the 2018 version. He has no real complaints, just that it's a bit heavy but this is compared to his non-disc bike which is sub 8kg.
Cheers. I'm not too bothered by the weight, 9kg isn't particularly light but it's not mega heavy either. And it's a fair bit lighter than my hybrid!
Yeah 9kg isn't bad for a disc bike and it's a suitable bike for Summer & Winter with the disc brakes & sealed Shimano bottom bracket, just needs some clip on mudguards for the rainy days.
I kinda do, but I treat myself to bike upgrades instead.
I'm treating myself to a new madone this summer. Been working 2 jobs for the past 8 months for this.
Maybe that will cure my new bike fever.
One of my toughest workouts so far but I think I held up pretty well
https://www.trainerroad.com/cycling/rides/33515433-warlow
So I have a question/concern - when I drop from one interval to another, particularly ones that are significant, like sweet spot to recovery, and especially from the last interval in a workout to cool down, I get tightness in my inner thighs. Is this something I should be concerned about our just my body adjusting to the workload?
https://www.trainerroad.com/cycling/rides/33515433-warlow
So I have a question/concern - when I drop from one interval to another, particularly ones that are significant, like sweet spot to recovery, and especially from the last interval in a workout to cool down, I get tightness in my inner thighs. Is this something I should be concerned about our just my body adjusting to the workload?
Thats about as good a deal youre going to find for a carbon frame disc brake bike.
Its has an endurance geometry, which as you stated will be great for riding in comfort.
The 105 groupset is solid as a rock as well.
Shimano is releasing the new 105 soon (which is probably partly why you're getting such a good deal), but that is marginal gain territory.
Cube do great Carbon bike for a reasonable price.
I think it looks great too. Imho, go for it!
This the road.cc review on it if you're interested!
http://road.cc/content/review/223182-cube-attain-gtc-pro-disc-2017
Thinking of picking up a Cannondale Carbon 2 Quick tomorrow.
I'm going to add a stem riser to bring the handle bars up a few inches, because of a back problem and personal geometry preferences, a comfier Serfas gel seat with nut buckets, and an under seat bag for phone and one tube. One bottle cage. And that's it. The bike is 20 pounds even, so it'll be the lightest I've ever ridden, but not enough for me to notice except when lifting onto the bike rack.
I'm going to add a stem riser to bring the handle bars up a few inches, because of a back problem and personal geometry preferences, a comfier Serfas gel seat with nut buckets, and an under seat bag for phone and one tube. One bottle cage. And that's it. The bike is 20 pounds even, so it'll be the lightest I've ever ridden, but not enough for me to notice except when lifting onto the bike rack.
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Damn, it sounds like it is the season for new bikes!
Treat yourself!
Thanks for your reply, I really appreciate it. That review seems pretty positive.
The one thing that's making me a bit hesitant is sizing. It's always tricky when you're buying a bike online because sizing guides and so on can only tell you so much without actually sitting on a bike to see if it really fits. I'm 5'9" (176cm) but for my height I have slightly short legs and a long back. Cube's sizing guide suggests that I should be looking at the 56cm frame but I'm just not sure if that's going to be the most suitable - I've read advice that suggests that it's better to go for a smaller frame than a bigger one if you're between sizes, but Rutland have sold out of the 53cm frame for this bike. To be fair, there doesn't seem to be much in it in terms of the geometry between the two frame sizes but I'd be gutted if it turned up and it was too big. I'm not sure if I'm worrying unduly here as Rutland have a good returns policy but as I say they don't have any of the smaller sized frames left in stock.
No, it's basically your body processing lactic acid. It's what makes over unders so hard.
Well, when one of us eats pavement when a miswoven cross bar fails, or gets carpal tunnel syndrome from billions of transmitted vibrations per ride, your indestructible, flexible, paintable frame will still keep trucking. Unless it gets bent.
And if it bends I can cut out the bad section and weld in a new piece.
Ok, still looking around.. to add to what I looked at before.. but more in the vein of the Co-Op ADV 3.1... the Surly ECR or Troll... and the Salsa Fargo.
In town it's bike paths and the occasional trail.. but we camp a lot on weekends.. and it's forest service roads, typically gravel and dirt.
I don't need speed as much as stability and a comfortable ride position as I'm old and sorta fat.
In town it's bike paths and the occasional trail.. but we camp a lot on weekends.. and it's forest service roads, typically gravel and dirt.
I don't need speed as much as stability and a comfortable ride position as I'm old and sorta fat.
Hey at least youre honest, no need to tell us :D
No problem, glad to have given my thoughts.
I'm actually in between sizes as well. Also have shorter legs and a longer torso.
I went with the smaller frame in the end. I gave Canyon a call and asked for their opinion.
They let me know that the intended geometry works best on the smaller frame for people with proportionally smaller legs. That could be different for Cube though, perhaps you could send them an email or contact on social media?
Exactly, often times you'll have enough play room with the standard seatpost though. Hope you'll be able to make a purchase soon!
Just a FYI, Salsa & Surly are owned by the same company so you may see a lot of similarities when comparing Surly to Salsa. That said, that's what Surly & Salsa are aimed at primarily above all else. They are good bikes for the money and offer a bunch of gear set ups thanks to all the mount spots.
Ok I gotta calibrate my value sensors. This bike for 2k euros, good or not? Assume the hardcore XC geometry is a conscious choice.
https://www.ghost-bikes.com/en/bikes/hardtail/bike/lector-49-lc/
https://www.ghost-bikes.com/en/bikes/hardtail/bike/lector-49-lc/
So the good news is that I transferred almost all the equipment I want from my old bike, to my new bike. The bad news got doubled though:
I tried to take the stem riser from my Gary Fisher, but it looks like they stripped the post tube bolt when they installed it, because it just won't come out.Spins like it has been loosened, then seizes up again at the end (and yes, I am spinning anti clockwise). So I gave up on that for the moment.
Then I remembered I had a stem riser on my mountain bike - so I removed that and the spacers (oh yes, I need about four more spacers for some reason, even though I haven't lost any.
Now here's the nightmare:
When I removed the riser and handlebars, the fork and stem bearings/washer thingy came out of the stem at both ends. And I have no idea how to reseat the whole mechanism. Nothing I did manually made any difference, and when I looked it up online, the guy had three really specialist tools to do the whole assembly (which looked really simple with the tools).
So I started with three working bikes, and now I have one. Just wondering if the simplest thing is to take them to the dealer and pay to have them re-sat.
I tried to take the stem riser from my Gary Fisher, but it looks like they stripped the post tube bolt when they installed it, because it just won't come out.Spins like it has been loosened, then seizes up again at the end (and yes, I am spinning anti clockwise). So I gave up on that for the moment.
Then I remembered I had a stem riser on my mountain bike - so I removed that and the spacers (oh yes, I need about four more spacers for some reason, even though I haven't lost any.
Now here's the nightmare:
When I removed the riser and handlebars, the fork and stem bearings/washer thingy came out of the stem at both ends. And I have no idea how to reseat the whole mechanism. Nothing I did manually made any difference, and when I looked it up online, the guy had three really specialist tools to do the whole assembly (which looked really simple with the tools).
So I started with three working bikes, and now I have one. Just wondering if the simplest thing is to take them to the dealer and pay to have them re-sat.
Those metal railings aren't a closed loop, so they rotate the bike to get it off the railings lock and all. Think about those toys where you try to guide a hoop over a twisted metal rail without touching the live rail and setting off a buzzer. Well, sometimes they aren't closed loops - which is how you got the loop on in the first place.
EDIT: Just watched higher res video - that loop IS closed. So I have no idea.
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So the headset bearings have come out, yeah? I'd they've just fallen out of the cups then you don't need specialist tools to refit them - they should just sit back in the cups providing that you put them in the right way up and in the right order.
If the cups themselves have come out of the frame then I'd be really concerned - they are designed to fit really tightly so they shouldn't ever come out unless you want them to. You'll need a press to replace them (either a proper shop tool or a ghetto version). As I say, tools are only needed to remove the cups from the frame, press new cups back in, or remove/replace the race that sits at the top of your forks. Just replacing the bearings without touching the cups doesn't need any special tools.
Stick up some pics of what you're dealing with so we can see what's going on.
Thanks! Here's a pic of the upper section - where you can see the bearing ring is just not seated in there correctly. Whatever's below it (cup?) is still there - it's just that ring of bearings. The problem is identical on the bottom end below - the bearing ring just loosely falls out when you take the weight off it. Nothing is missing - it's a closed loop, as it were. And when trying to rescrew the post bolt doesn't seem to pull the two ends together, as I expected it to.
On threadless headsets, the clamp on the stem (or riser) that connects it to the steering tube is also used to hold the headset together. The fork isn't going to stay in place unless there's a stem or riser keeping it from falling off the frame.
If you want to put it back together yourself, use the appropriate torque wrench for clamp bolts on the stem and riser. Make sure that the headset bearings are tensioned appropriately, or else riding the bike can damage the frame.
You should just be able to sit the ring of bearings in the cup (making sure that they're the right way round, they'll only fit one way), then put the rest of the headset spacers and whatnot on top, before adding the stem and finally the top cap. There's quite often a compression ring that goes on before the spacers and holds everything in place so that you can more easily reassemble everything, but if your setup doesn't have one then you'll probably need another pair of hands to help hold everything in place. Alternatively you can sort out the bottom end first then place the bike down on its wheels so that you can do the top section.
If your top cap is one with a star-fangled nut inside the steerer tube then you need to be careful about how tight you do up the top cap. You should tighten that up before you tighten up the stem bolts - the top cap and star-fangled nut is what holds the headset assembly in place, not the stem. Don't overtighten as that can squash the bearings and could cause the headset to become stiff or bind when turning, but if it's too loose then the headset will have play - you can check this by putting your hand around the area where the bearings are, applying the front brake and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. You shouldn't feel any knocking or looseness if the top cap is on tight enough. You basically want the minimum tightness to avoid play, and be prepared to go back to it and check again after you've been out for your first ride with everything reassembled in case it moves around a bit initially. Once you're happy that the headset is tight enough you can do up the stem bolts.
There are loads of good videos out there about servicing headset bearings - looks like you have a semi-integrated headset, so you should be able to find some help on YouTube if you're struggling. I always like GCN's maintenance videos so it might be worth checking there first.
If your top cap is one with a star-fangled nut inside the steerer tube then you need to be careful about how tight you do up the top cap. You should tighten that up before you tighten up the stem bolts - the top cap and star-fangled nut is what holds the headset assembly in place, not the stem. Don't overtighten as that can squash the bearings and could cause the headset to become stiff or bind when turning, but if it's too loose then the headset will have play - you can check this by putting your hand around the area where the bearings are, applying the front brake and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. You shouldn't feel any knocking or looseness if the top cap is on tight enough. You basically want the minimum tightness to avoid play, and be prepared to go back to it and check again after you've been out for your first ride with everything reassembled in case it moves around a bit initially. Once you're happy that the headset is tight enough you can do up the stem bolts.
There are loads of good videos out there about servicing headset bearings - looks like you have a semi-integrated headset, so you should be able to find some help on YouTube if you're struggling. I always like GCN's maintenance videos so it might be worth checking there first.
Thanks for this. I at least now know what to go look for. Nothing is missing or damaged - if this makes sense - I never fully removed anything that could allow the bearing rings or any other components to fall off - basically there's always been something on top of it - and I do get the distinct feeling that if it were just all seated and firm vertically, the final bolt would secure everything down through the vertical. It's really difficult with one set of hands tho!
So I went out for the first time in more than three months. It wasn't a particularly hard ride (front third was fairly hilly), but it felt like I'd done 12 hours rather than the 2.5 that I actually did.
I've become horribly unfit. :(
I've become horribly unfit. :(
The top cap and star-fangled nut are what are used to set the preload on the bearings, but the stem is the primary thing holding the assembly in place during use. This is why the bearing tension usually changes slightly when the stem is fastened, and why you need to re-check the bearing tension after tightening the stem: the bearings are no longer being tensioned by the top cap acting through a loose stem, but by the stem by itself being seated slightly differently on the steering tube than when it was "loose." The headset won't suffer any loss of function if you remove the top cap after tightening the stem (not that this is a good idea).
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Hey everyone!
I created a VeloGames Giro League
You can create a team at velogames.com
Create a team and then at the team page, search to join a league.
The code for the ResetERA league is:
907348120
Hope to see you all there!
I created a VeloGames Giro League
You can create a team at velogames.com
Create a team and then at the team page, search to join a league.
The code for the ResetERA league is:
907348120
Hope to see you all there!
I tried doing my training in the morning for the first time. It took me a little while to wake up but I handled it ok, so I'll try to keep at it. I like having my evenings free. I'd really like to take a nap right now tho.
If I could get up and go to the gym on gym days, now that would be impressive.
If I could get up and go to the gym on gym days, now that would be impressive.
You work from home right?
Sadly no such luxury for me. I have to squeeze in my rides in the evening hours or weekends.
Juggling a job, 9 month old baby and a wife can be a bit of hassle XD
Makes the rides that I do make that much more worth it though.
Yeah, I work from home. If I can get myself out of bed around 6:45 I can do a 1hr trainer session and eat and shower and be ready for work. I should try and back it up closer to 6 because some rides are 1.5 hours.
Three hour xc ride today, was freaking awesome. Even went down a short dh track with my xc hardtail. It was really awkward but I'd do it again.
Afterwards I squandered all the gains on a Big Mac meal. Yolo right?
Afterwards I squandered all the gains on a Big Mac meal. Yolo right?
That protein gets converted directly into muscle, don't worry.
More cunts sabotaging trails...
http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/trail_news/shropshire-trail-sabotage-374956
http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/trail_news/shropshire-trail-sabotage-374956
