Good to hear! ThanksI've built in the Define Mini C and it was a really good building experience. It basically cable managed itself. The S340 elite is also well regarded, so I don't think you can really go wrong with any of those options.
Good to hear! ThanksI've built in the Define Mini C and it was a really good building experience. It basically cable managed itself. The S340 elite is also well regarded, so I don't think you can really go wrong with any of those options.
That's why I mean "shitty" heh. Good quality, well tuned TN panel can look great but these are also not cheap. High refresh rate panels are still within the premium product category and it isn't going to change very soon.What's wrong with a TN panel? I'm not going to be looking at a monitor from some crazy off-angle and it seems like the higher refresh rate is what I'm looking for. Am I mistaken?
Could someone offer some networking advise for my home network? I recently changed ISP and it made sense to have them install the Router into the living room as more devices in there require direct connection (Ps4, Sky Box etc..). On the second floor I have my PC which is currently getting a connection through one of the PowerLine plugs but the main issue I am having is that when in the bedroom, which is the over side of the house from the router downstairs I just fail to get a WiFi connection.
What I am looking for is a device where I can install upstairs using the Ethernet coming through the powerline adaptor that will then provide a strong WiFi signal upstairs but also have Gigaports so I can still connect the PC with Ethernet also.
Currently I am trying to re-use the old router from my previous ISP (BT) but it really isn't playing nicely with the Virgin router and there is no 'Access point' mode.
Thanks
Ohh gotcha.That's why I mean "shitty" heh. Good quality, well tuned TN panel can look great but these are also not cheap. High refresh rate panels are still within the premium product category and it isn't going to change very soon.
Finally have everything I need: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vQs34q
Guess I'll start building on the weekend. Don't think I missed anything?
It'll be hooked up to my TV for 4K(ish) gaming. Will be upgrading to the next Nvidia line around Christmas I think. Really didn't wanna wait anymore and have to fight for the new cards this summer.
The gtx 1050 is a great videocard for a 4k htpc build if you plan to watch videos and surf the web but don't need to game at 4k. It doesn't use much power or produce much heat, has hdmi 2.0, and generally doesn't make much noise (there are different coolers available of course).So thanks to some money wrangling, I'll be coming into a 4K LG tv in the next month or two.
Any suggestions on a good, cheap gpu for an HTPC that can handle 4k? I asked before about the 1050, but got no response.
There's also a new 3GB 1050 that's supposed to be around the same $150 price, but it would be a matter of waiting to see which one of the board partners models is the quietest.So thanks to some money wrangling, I'll be coming into a 4K LG tv in the next month or two.
Any suggestions on a good, cheap gpu for an HTPC that can handle 4k? I asked before about the 1050, but got no response.
The gtx 1050 is a great videocard for a 4k htpc build if you plan to watch videos and surf the web but don't need to game at 4k. It doesn't use much power or produce much heat, has hdmi 2.0, and generally doesn't make much noise (there are different coolers available of course).
There's also a new 3GB 1050 that's supposed to be around the same $150 price, but it would be a matter of waiting to see which one of the board partners models is the quietest.
I have a msi 1050ti gaming x. The fans don't turn on at all until 60C, I kinda doubt they'd turn on watching a 4k movie, and even then, it's almost inaudible, the cpu and case fans are much more audible anyway.There's also a new 3GB 1050 that's supposed to be around the same $150 price, but it would be a matter of waiting to see which one of the board partners models is the quietest.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06X3W9NGG/
Ryzen 1700X discounted on Amazon today. I was actually just thinking of finally upgrading my i5 4690K and getting the 2700X - would that still be worth it or should I get this?
I'm gonna be honest I don't know what StoreMI and XFR are I'm just wondering if the 2700X is good enough to justify the extra $150+Do StoreMi and XFR really hold your interest? Then get a 2700X.
From my experience, StoreMeme can be useful in that it avoids some of the pitfalls that ISRT causes. However you're still creating a Harddrive-blob that cannot be accessed without the manager, and it won't run on linux.
XFR really only works when the processor is well cooled, and considering that it has 105w of heat to flush away before overclocking you'll probably only see it in action when it's only handling a single thread. In older AGESA versions (before 1.0.0.2c) there are also issues getting the DDR4 clock speed over 1467mhz without the usual memory_manager and attempted_write_in_protected_adress bluescreens
Oh and one more thing, StoreMI doesn't do Bitlocker.
So I've been kicking the idea around of upgrading my PC for a while, but I'm really struggling to justify the cost. If anyone wants to weigh in on my situation, that would be amazing. So I had some RAM kick the bucket and I'm currently down to 8GB DDR3. I am struggling with just replacing my dead RAM because I'd be buying something that's not current. The problem here is obviously that I'd need to replace the MOBO, RAM, and CPU all in one swoop. I'm currently running an i74770K, the aforementioned 8GB of DDR3 and an old Z87 MSI MOBO. I'd be keeping the GTX 1070 that I'm currently using. Really, this is a very roundabout way to ask if doing that full suite of upgrades is a smart move. Perhaps I should bite the bullet and pick up some DDR3. Maybe I should stop worrying about only having 8GB of RAM since it seems fine for the most part.
What RAM is it? Many brands of RAM have lifetime warranties and are easy to send in for a replacement for only the cost of shipping your RAM out.
It's two Corsair Vengeance 4GB sticks. I suppose I should check out the replacement options on them then.
If your goal is 1080p gaming then yep, it would be a good fitJust a curiosity, would this video card work well with my current build?
In that case, no.I'm gonna be honest I don't know what StoreMI and XFR are I'm just wondering if the 2700X is good enough to justify the extra $150+
Is the Intel build at $570 still a pretty viable option? I haven't looked at PC builds in a while but I'm looking to help out my cousin on a pretty strict budget. He's trying to keep it sub $600 so he can get a decent keyboard and mouse, too. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
As long as your use case is ok with the limitations it is viable. It's a good general computer that can competently game at 1080p, but isn't going to regularly or even frequently handle high settings.
Try testing with a replacement PSU. This does sound like either a PSU or MB issue.I am still having issues with my computer; after pressing the power button, it stays on for a few seconds (the GPU lights up and the fans spin), it doesn't post and then turns off.
At this point I believe it might be either the PSU (which passed the paperclip test, but I don't think it's conclusive) or the mobo itself. I realised that one of the SYSFAN connectors on the mobo is not working anymore (only one though); could that be related to simply not having enough power? Or could that be the cause of the turning off? I don't know if it makes much sense, but I read that issues like this are often caused by something shortcircuiting; could it be the broken/malfunctioning port/connector?
No guarantee that'll work, M.2 to PCI-E adapters are very unreliable on old motherboards, even moreso on AMD boards. And yes no guarantee Windows 10 would boot from it, or even let you install.hey friends
I need to eventually build a new PC, but I'm trying to squeeze what's left out of my current rig, so I'm 90% sure the hard drive is on the way out. I want to replace it with a part that I'd use down the line, like maybe the new intel 760p M.2 SSD. I was thinking the 250Gb is looking nice
The plan is to run it on my PCI E 2.0 x4 port on this motherboard via an adapter
https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/M4A87TDUSB3/specifications/
concerns- 1. It's a pci-e 3.0 drive being shoehorned into a 2.0 slot
2. Will my motherboard allow Windows 10 booting from it?
What do you think ERA?
Luckily it seems that I'll be able to borrow one from a friend, so I'll be able to see what's the cause soon enough. If it ends up being the MB I wonder what could have caused the issue, it started pretty randomly as far as I am aware.Try testing with a replacement PSU. This does sound like either a PSU or MB issue.
Thanks, haha. Deal ended in the meantime so I think I'll just go for the 2700x and hold onto it for a little longer. More up front but oh well
So I've been kicking the idea around of upgrading my PC for a while, but I'm really struggling to justify the cost. If anyone wants to weigh in on my situation, that would be amazing. So I had some RAM kick the bucket and I'm currently down to 8GB DDR3. I am struggling with just replacing my dead RAM because I'd be buying something that's not current. The problem here is obviously that I'd need to replace the MOBO, RAM, and CPU all in one swoop. I'm currently running an i74770K, the aforementioned 8GB of DDR3 and an old Z87 MSI MOBO. I'd be keeping the GTX 1070 that I'm currently using. Really, this is a very roundabout way to ask if doing that full suite of upgrades is a smart move. Perhaps I should bite the bullet and pick up some DDR3. Maybe I should stop worrying about only having 8GB of RAM since it seems fine for the most part.
It doesn't sound like you have any performance issues relative to what you run with that setup so not sure why you'd upgrade. At most just get more RAM.
Where's the best place to try and find older motherboards for sale? In particular for me a LGA1150 motherboard? And it there any specific board or maker you guys would recommend?
I managed to somehow break all of my pci-e slots on my motherboard this morning.
Where's the best place to try and find older motherboards for sale? In particular for me a LGA1150 motherboard? And it there any specific board or maker you guys would recommend?
I managed to somehow break all of my pci-e slots on my motherboard this morning.
I second this. I've picked up a couple of LGA1155 and FM2 boards and they've all been fine. Sometimes they don't come with an I/O shield, so check the listing. Most of these seem to be unsold stock or refurb boards from China.
I think I'm just trapped in a desire to upgrade regardless of whether or not I need to O.o
Yeah, well, join the club. I've got a $3500 water-cooled PC i built last June and I seriously contemplated switching out the CPU to an 8700k (from 7700k) and a Maximus X Code (from the Maximus IX). Thankfully I came to my senses!
Make sure your on the latest bios of your motherboard. The latest windows update needs a bios update on many motherboards to work properly.anyone else having issues with the latest windows 10 updates? i'm on 1803 and installed the latest cumulative update.
my pc often resets OC settings when awakening from sleep mode. it was running just fine on the previous version. also now i'm getting the occasional issues with sound. it will make a buzzing sound now and then. ive got my sound drivers up to date.
god i hate W10.
Ao, I am considering upgrading the cpu on my PC. Which means changing the mobo and getting new ram....
Right now I am looking at a $1k upgrade...
My current build is a i5 2500k
Gtx 1070
Im looking at getting a i7 8700k
The asus rog maximus x formula
And 16gb of ddr 4 4333 ram...
Thoughts? Is that overkill? Could i do something wiser
What really attracts me on the rog maximus x formula board is the amount of usb slots on the back as I have a ton of needs for usb connections.
<edit> apparently I should get the ddr4 3000 ram?