Do you notice your CPU/GPU/RAM usage change significantly when you open OBS?
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The PC Builders Thread (aka I need a new PC)
- Thread starter Celcius
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Do you notice your CPU/GPU/RAM usage change significantly when you open OBS?
I know this is the build a PC thread, but I have a question about actually upgrading a pre-built PC.
This is my PC: https://www.amazon.com/Alienware-AWAUR6-7475SLV-PUS-Aurora-Desktop-GeForce/dp/B0747WRVBJ
I'm interested in upgrading it's GPU eventually. Not soon, but eventually. It has a spot for a second GPU so it seems ready to go. However I know that PSUs have limits on them that can make upgrading difficult, but I don't know specifics.
This is my PC: https://www.amazon.com/Alienware-AWAUR6-7475SLV-PUS-Aurora-Desktop-GeForce/dp/B0747WRVBJ
I'm interested in upgrading it's GPU eventually. Not soon, but eventually. It has a spot for a second GPU so it seems ready to go. However I know that PSUs have limits on them that can make upgrading difficult, but I don't know specifics.
When I look at CPU usage on OBS it's under 6%. Not sure what it is because like I said, all my other games are fine. I'll do some experiments and see if I can isolate it. So far all I can tell is that if OBS is on my performance goes to shit, and this is before I even start streaming.
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That thing should have a solid PSU so there's nothing to worry about. Anyway if you're upgrading the GPU you'll be replacing the current one, not adding another 1070, right? You mentioned the additional PCI-E slot so that's why I'm asking.
It wouldn't be another 1070, no. I'm gonna wait things out, see what options and prices are like by the end of the year. So not sure what card I'll get, but I definitely want something stronger. Is it not advisable to have the 1070 plus another card in it at once?
Having two cards (SLI) requires they be the same.
Generally SLI can be a hassle and game support varies. It's typically for when you're running really high resolutions.
By the end of the year the new 11-series nVidia cards will be out, so that's what you should shoot for. They will be faster than the 1080Ti, so a big upgrade over a 1070.
Where's the best place to buy a W10 key, I bought an OEM key I think on reddit software swap at the recommendation on the last forum but I've since switched out my motherboard and now it's telling me I can't activate. I can't find the reddit sub I bought it from or if it's still even active.
Any advice?
Any advice?
Ah, so I'd need two of the same? My only goal is 4k at mostly ultra settings. I get close with the 1070, but not quite. I'm definitely gonna wait for the 11 series.
There is no real legal way to get a W10 key below $90-$100 from a legitimate retailer. Places like PlayAsia will sell "grey market" keys but these are either stolen or taken from university/corporate licensing agreements and aren't meant to be resold. Personally, I recommend shelling out the money for a retail key, as at this point, it seems like Microsoft is wanting to let people use old keys to upgrade to new versions for free or an extrmely reduced cost. Having to rebuy one of those grey market keys every time you change out a mobo very well may be a net loss in money long-term for you. Just my two cents.
It's OBS. I switched to Xsplit and I can stream CSGO at 1080 60fps with no lag, stutter, or dropped frames. I'm also playing it at 250fps which is almost 4 times the fps I was getting with OBS. Not sure what the issue was, but I'm happy.
I'm going to build a Ryzen 3 2200G-based budget desktop, and I'd like to overclock both the CPU and GPU (to at least 3.8 and 1.5 GHz respectively). I'm also going with B350 mATX motherboards, since I'm taking the desktop to college and I would like a more compact machine. Apparently there's something called a VRM on motherboards that impacts overclocking performance, and also apparently motherboards below $100 tend to have "bad" VRMs. I'd rather not spend more than $80 on a motherboard and $400 for the entire system. Any advice on picking one? Click here for PCPartPicker build.
So I'm kinda in a rough spot, running a small business and need to have a PC to do business stuff and graphic design. So I am looking for something to game on as well but have a pretty low budget at the moment.. maybe 600 usd. So I'm looking for something I can later update pretty easy and be good spot.
Also second question.. I am living in South East Asia and this time of the year is rainy reason and everything is humid as shit. Curious what are ways you can protect your PC from getting damaged from all the humidity? I am pretty sure it's why my laptop kicked the bucket and lot of other eletronics I own have been failing lately as well . Like should I maybe put some of those moisture absorbing packets around it and put a cardboard box over it when not running? I am not sure how people here deal with the humidity on their devices. Hell all my flash drives are rusted after leaving them in my laptop case in my room.. just crazy.
Also second question.. I am living in South East Asia and this time of the year is rainy reason and everything is humid as shit. Curious what are ways you can protect your PC from getting damaged from all the humidity? I am pretty sure it's why my laptop kicked the bucket and lot of other eletronics I own have been failing lately as well . Like should I maybe put some of those moisture absorbing packets around it and put a cardboard box over it when not running? I am not sure how people here deal with the humidity on their devices. Hell all my flash drives are rusted after leaving them in my laptop case in my room.. just crazy.
I say a good way to save some money is buy last gen graphic cards (Nvidia 900s or whatever AMD has that is comparable) since they'll run most games at good settings. Same with CPUs but if your willing to push just a bit 8th gen CPUs are good future proofing. everything else is reasonable pricing just don't skip out on power supply. As for humidity dehumidifier would help.
3.8 GHz isn't a crazy high overclock for the 2200G, so most boards will probably work. However, B350 mATX boards tend to be the worst for VRM quality on average. I don't remember which is good and bad, but ActuallyHardcoreOverclocking on YouTibe did a lot of reviews on VRM quality of AM4 boards and I believe he did a huge roundup for basically all AM4 boards as a special feature for the GamersNexus YouTube channel. My advice is to check through his videos (especially the roundup video he did for GN) and see if any stand out.
Thanks. I might have found the video. The person in the video suggested the ASRock Fatal1ty AB350 K4 and also mentioned the ASRock AB350M Pro4, since it has the same VRMs and VRM heat sink. I've been eyeing the Pro4, but I'm wary of its reliability. Apparently it has widespread freezing problems but also apparently they were fixed in more recently manufactured boards. Should I be worried?
Uh, I have this cpu and oc to exactly 3.8ghz and 1.5ghz (or 1.6 I don't remember) and I have since then bought a 1050ti, which improves everything significantly (obviously), but that was the max I could reach with the Ryzen 3 2200G - and it was a huge hassle, so many BSODs - and sometimes the pc wouldn't boot at all anymore... (because the Ryzen "master" software sucks)
In retrospective I shouldn't have cheaped out on the motherboard (msi B350) and instead bought one of those Fatal1ty or whatever, the motherboard is a huge hassle in itself... like it's missing half the options normal motherboards have...
Tldr : the AMD Ryzen 3 2200G is a good chip, but don't cheap out on the motherboard and the RAM (needs to be at least 8gb 3000mhz "dual channel") otherwise you'd be better off with a cheap Intel / nvidia combo. (imo)
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Something like this for example
https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming K4/
I mean I was on a tight budget but like I said in hindsight something like this would be better in the long run.
Possibly with on board wifi / Bluetooth too, I mean I certainly miss having those options.
https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming K4/
I mean I was on a tight budget but like I said in hindsight something like this would be better in the long run.
Possibly with on board wifi / Bluetooth too, I mean I certainly miss having those options.
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It also depends on if you are going to be using the Ryzen 3 2200G's APU. It's a fine motherboard if you will be using a GPU, otherwise pick a motherboard with a Display Port. That Asrock board does not have DP or HDMI 2.0 so it can't do better than 1440p at 30Hz. I am aware the 2200G maxes out at 1080p for gaming, but with a Display Port you can hook up a 2K or 4K monitor for general use or watching movies.
It seems that many of the HDMI-ports on the B350-boards actually are 2.0 capable, according to this SFFForum thread.
So what kind of motherboard should I invest in if I plan to use the APU first, then invest into a discrete GPU?
Hey, so I'm horrible with this stuff and I've been trying to put together a PC for the past year. But with limited money I've been kind of collecting as I go. I need some advice on MoBo, RAM, and Video Cards.
I have a collection of parts here. But any advice would be appreciated. I intend to use the build for graphic design, 3d modelling, and some game development.
Thank you for advice.
EDIT: Also, I'm looking for a decent SSD. I've been seeing a lot of decently priced ones popping up lately and I don't want to bite on a less than decent quality one.
I have a collection of parts here. But any advice would be appreciated. I intend to use the build for graphic design, 3d modelling, and some game development.
Thank you for advice.
EDIT: Also, I'm looking for a decent SSD. I've been seeing a lot of decently priced ones popping up lately and I don't want to bite on a less than decent quality one.
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Each of the boards with Display Port which i would recommend are also list in maped's HDMI 2.0 post so any of those should be fine. (i forgot about that list and i just read it 2 days ago)
I would replace the SSD with either of these M.2 SSDs which are faster and cheaper than your selection.
Western Digital - Black PCIe 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Kingston - A1000 240GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Also, EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply is cheaper and fully modular (i have the 750W version and it's never let me down)
I've already got the power supply, but thank you for the recommendation.
Also, I'm a little hesitant on getting an M.2 right now just in case the MoBo I get doesn't support it.
Hi everyone.
I have a question regarding upgrading to a new PC tower: how difficult is it to move your current PC to a new case? The current one I have, while serviceable, is very bulky and difficult to move should I need to do so. It's a full tower so I'm looking to go a step down in size.
I have a question regarding upgrading to a new PC tower: how difficult is it to move your current PC to a new case? The current one I have, while serviceable, is very bulky and difficult to move should I need to do so. It's a full tower so I'm looking to go a step down in size.
Not hard unless you have a ton of water cooling gear or a huge number of drives. Shouldn't take more than an hour depending on how much hardware you are talking about.
There are almost no issues to worry about in most instances, besides the following:
1) Make sure your new case can fit your motherboard (e.g., if you have an ATX motherboard, you'll need to make sure your new case is large enough/compatible with ATX motherboards.
2) Make sure whatever CPU cooler you have can fit in the new case.
3) If you want to move your old fans into the new case, check to see what fans (size and quantity) the new case can support.
You can plug all your parts into PCPartPicker and then swap in different cases and 98% of the time they'll accurately tell you if your CPU cooler or motherboard won't fit.
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So I'll go back to this and refine my search to this: What is the best Mother Board for this type of build? I don't have access to wired ethernet so I was looking into one with wireless built in, but I've also seen that the one I picked has a bad habit of crapping out in about a years time. Would it just be better to invest in a higher quality one and then attatch wireless adapters to it?
Thank you.
Would not buy a new GPU now if you havent found anything on sale already. My guess is new middle-line Nvidia 1160/2060 will probably arrive in September/October (2 months after top-line 1180/2080 which should arrive in july/august).
People are starting to sell off their 900/1000-series cards. Mind though that older series draws more power.
I'm no expert but I heard used AMD-cards could be most bang for the bucks while you wait.
If you can't wait I would suggest checking the used market. I think mining cards are ok too if those are less than 6 months old.
I heard some GPU-companies offers guarantee without the need for a receipt and instead the serial number is sufficient.
People are starting to sell off their 900/1000-series cards. Mind though that older series draws more power.
I'm no expert but I heard used AMD-cards could be most bang for the bucks while you wait.
If you can't wait I would suggest checking the used market. I think mining cards are ok too if those are less than 6 months old.
I heard some GPU-companies offers guarantee without the need for a receipt and instead the serial number is sufficient.
Watched an old video of the Tested guys building Jeff (Giant bomb) a PC and man so much has changed since 2012 and also lack of cable management
All B350 Ryzen motherboards support M.2. Besides, you would certainly check for compatibility of all the parts before buying, and PCPartpicker would notify you of any incompatibilities anyway.
The B350 motherboards which feature native wireless are all mITX so unless you are building a small form factor build (which i am) you will be better off to buy a USB wireless AC dongle or a PCI-E internal card which also features Bluetooth.
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I don't think I'll be going small form factor. So with that in mind, what sort of motherboard would you recommend?
Still my biggest issue with my (first) built, either cables are too long or too short and I have a huge issue "hiding" them, I mean if I'm going to connect them to the motherboard they naturally are visible... I tried to have them hidden between case and motherboard, but that's still not ideal, I read to put them 'under' the board but that's physically impossible in most cases and the back of my case has a 'cable management' section which is a huge mess and I could barely fit the back panel because of how many cables there are...!
Then there's a whole section near that where you're supposed to put in additional fans (front), but that space is already occupied with... more cables lol.
I probably have to redo everything especially when I put in a third harddrive as the SATA cable doesn't have a single free plug anymore, not to mention my case does support up to 5 fans, but the motherboard only has plugs for 3 fans so I need and additional 'thing' to connect and control all my fans (the 2 additional fans aren't for cooling anyways, I only bought them because they glow red).
So yeah. I wish someone would invent wireless pc parts already, and please be cheap!
*watches video now*
Usually ATX-cards are cheaper than miniATX/ITX and probably a bit more powerful/durable. Check how many fan-slots the mobo has in comparison with your chassi. You could buy an Y-cable and connect 2 to 1 slot but such cables cost almost as much as upgrading to that +1 extra fan-slot-mobo and then I guess you get better quality too.
I heard Bluetooth works better as a separate USB-device as long as you get a popular one and I guess that goes for wi-fi too. But maybe you could save some money and still get an overall better mobo by getting one which has wifi, bluetooth and all whistles and blows included
I heard Bluetooth works better as a separate USB-device as long as you get a popular one and I guess that goes for wi-fi too. But maybe you could save some money and still get an overall better mobo by getting one which has wifi, bluetooth and all whistles and blows included
Some questions I have:
1. Is there a noticeable performance difference between Ryzen 3 2200G and Ryzen 5 2400G in terms of gaming?
2. Are the above CPU's a good match for RX 480 GPU and if not, which CPU would you recommend?
3. Will need a new mobo too but PC PART PICKER tells me that most AM4 socket mobo do not have native support for Ryzen and will need to update bios, how do I do this since my current CPU is an Intel i3?
1. Is there a noticeable performance difference between Ryzen 3 2200G and Ryzen 5 2400G in terms of gaming?
2. Are the above CPU's a good match for RX 480 GPU and if not, which CPU would you recommend?
3. Will need a new mobo too but PC PART PICKER tells me that most AM4 socket mobo do not have native support for Ryzen and will need to update bios, how do I do this since my current CPU is an Intel i3?
If you already have the GPU, I'd go with the R5 1600. Two additional cores (6 cores/12 threads) and no bios update needed for the AM4 platform.
I'm not sure. I'm not fond of pcpartpicker since there is not much specs to choose from. On pricespy UK you have more specs to filter with
https://pricespy.ie/computers-accessories/computer-components/motherboards--c1320
https://pricespy.ie/computers-accessories/computer-components/motherboards--c1320
Thank you for the prompt replies
The R5 1600 is a bit more expensive that I want to spend but is doable
And good to know that the Ryzen 3 is good enough
I suppose the only thing that's left is to purchase a more recent mobo
wow, blast from the past. My current box is that build, with upgrades over the years going from 8gb ram to 16gb, a 560ti to a 970, and a 1tb wd black to a samsung 850 evo. I'll finally buy a whole new system to replace it this year, but not bad for 7 years and still kicking
1. 2200g is more bang for the bucks
2. No, if you plan to get a GPU you would be better off with AMD 1600/1800 6 cores and settle with cheaper ram I guess. I went intel 8400 6 cores + cheaper 2666mhz ram. It has a decent internal gpu so you can play age of empires and wait for the coming price drop. No overclocking is possible on that cpu anyway and ram speed is not so important on intel. The included cpu fans are always noisy going up and down so I would recommend "cooler master hyper 212 evo" which is cheap but very effective and silent.
I got one rule in life, and that rule is never trust a stock cooler so thanks for the recommendation.
Well I can get the 1600 for around $75 more than the Ryzen 3, the slightly lighter wallet might be worth it
A price drop is coming? For GPU's? How come?
Oh and also I am in India but I converted the currency for your benefit
I wouldn't apply that rule to the new Ryzen stock coolers. You'd be wasting money on a lateral replacement going with the 212 Evo.
Sure, the Evo will outperform it, but not remotely enough to warrant spending extra money when you're on a budget. The AMD stock coolers aren't remotely in the same ballpark as Intel's shitty offering.
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Keep in mind you will have to get a GPU right away since only the 2200G & 2400G feature built in graphics.
I currently have a 1060 3gb card and just ordered the 1440p 144hx 27 inch dell monitor. Looking to upgrade my gpu. My options are:
Buy a used 1080 for $470
Buy a used 1080ti for $660
Or should I wait for next gen cards? Don't really want to pay more than $650-700 but is 1080 enough to suit my needs?
Buy a used 1080 for $470
Buy a used 1080ti for $660
Or should I wait for next gen cards? Don't really want to pay more than $650-700 but is 1080 enough to suit my needs?
If you want to make full use of the refresh rate, yeah you'll want better than a gtx1080. I have a 1080 with a 1440p 165hz screen and still end up occasionally bumping down internal resolutions to 1080p to get the framerate up.
Edit: Disregard, she'd disabled all apps from using the microphone in her privacy settings, so Windows wasn't even acknowledging that a mic was connected.
Anyone having issues with HyperX Cloud 2 mic being read as SideTone instead of a mic by Windows?
It's assuming the mic is a line-in and not letting it function as a headset...
I'm only having the issue on my wife's PC.
Mine is having no issues reading my mic as a mic.
Anyone having issues with HyperX Cloud 2 mic being read as SideTone instead of a mic by Windows?
It's assuming the mic is a line-in and not letting it function as a headset...
I'm only having the issue on my wife's PC.
Mine is having no issues reading my mic as a mic.
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