I think they are trying to dodge government regulation along these lines.
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Television Displays and Technology Thread: The ERA of OLED is Now
- Thread starter Jeremiah
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I think they are trying to dodge government regulation along these lines.
Okay so I can almost 100% promise you that you're limited to 2ch because of CRU. (It sounds like you're literally walking in my footsteps from ~1 yr ago).
When I was trying to do what you're doing with CRU, for whatever reason, that would mess with the audio drivers and would limit output to 2 ch. someone with more background on driver software would need to explain why that is, but it would work every time I reinstalled drivers after messing around with CRU so I believe that's what causes it.
There are a couple work arounds... The most straightforward is to actually get a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter and use the DisplayPort output for audio and the hdmi you're using now for video. That will enable you to do more than 2ch while using CRU (at least this is the solution I read and saw confirmation that it works. I honestly got as far as buying the adapter and realized the marginal benefit moving from 1440p to 1620 or 1800 wasn't worth all the dicking around, so I never actually hooked it up, but it should work).
Lastly, DD/DTS isn't really a thing in PC games. Generally everything is multichannel PCM, which is good, because it's uncompressed (versus DD and DTS, which are heavily compressed). I think there might be one or two games that are starting to natively support Atmos, but everything else is MultiCh PCM. Once you get the audio issues sorted per above, that's what you should see popping up on your AVR.
Idk why but the DV setting is just too damn dark. I can't even tamper with the settings on the blu-ray player or my x930e.
If it's 49 then pass. 49 displays are ips, which means grey blacks.
HDMI 2.1, VRR, and price reduction on 70''+ OLED panels. I think that'll be coming in 2020 or whenever LG gets it's new manufacturing facility really up and running. In the meantime my 65'' B6 OLED will serve me well.
When it kicks in the brightness will noticeably decrease. When I first got my B7 and was experimenting with settings, I was playing Super Mario Odyssey with OLED Light set to 100. The image would dull a lot depending what was on the screen at the time. Very distracting.
In that order:
- under 2500€ for 60+ inches
- (HDMI2.1) just to future proof my purchase
- true blacks (OLED or comparable technology)
- VRR
- HDR
- lowish Latency
Hope that this becomes reality once PS5 comes around.
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Not sure why I did not get a notification for this...
For HDR, I would stick with HDR Cinema, that is most accurate. Couple reasons the monitor is not good for HDR... there is too much added sharpness you can't adjust/reduce, and there are no user control in any of the HDR modes!
Honestly, for the picture mode custom, I would just leave the reds/blues/greens at default. Just because you and I have the same monitor does not mean we have the same deviations in RGB... your copying my RGB could actually make your set further away from reference, if that makes any sense? It's still a great monitor but really wish they fleshed out the HDR more. Hopefully when it comes time for you to upgrade they have better HDR monitors available, be it QLED or OLED!
HDMI 2.1
VRR with a decent range
Dolby Vision
4K @ 120hz
That's really all I need for an upgrade.
I don't have an OLED but I've seen videos that showed ABL kicking in when viewing a screen that is mostly white. Like if you used a PC and the windows file explorer
I haven't seen it since lowering the OLED Light setting. I think that I use 75 for SDR now.
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Here's a great video showcasing what VRR does: https://www.testufo.com/vrr
Why is it exciting? Games no longer have to be tied to either 30 or 60 FPS to achieve judder/stutter free motion as seen in the video above. Input lag would be reduced as vsync is not needed when the display syncs to the frame rate of the game.
You've got to be careful with a high OLED light for SDR, can really increase noise and degrade above black handling further.
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So looking at the video you posted it seems by VRR there isn't any stuttering as there is with 30fps.
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More specifically, pay close attention to the fluctuating FPS counter... on the VRR section, when the FPS cycles the transition is smooth. Whereas on a non VRR display, the FPS drops create judder/stutter.
What this allows developers to do is run their games without a frame rate cap. Consequently, this could potentially reduce image persistence as there is more visual information transmitted by a higher frame rate.
I can see 40-45 FPS games becoming more common next gen if VRR takes off. It might not be 60 FPS, but consider it's still 50% more frames over 30 FPS.
I don't know how anyone can watch HDR or SDR at that light level without burning their eyeballs out
What's your recommended setting for SDR?
With 2.4 gamma, I find the blacks are too much crushed for my taste under 40 OLED light.
It's an issue with the P series and their updates have made it worse. I just replaced my 75" P after Vizio service basically admitted they can't do anything about it and to wait for their shitty updates to fix it.
Mine was calibrated for 60 dark room, but I slowly realised that whilst it looked good for most content, it really isn't for areas that already suffer from noisy artefacts, I tried these areas at 100, and it made these great TV's look seriously bad, like worst TV ever standard, interestingly OLED light 15-20 got rid of all noise, but then it's too dim, so I've settled on 46, and works pretty well, with 49 for brightness, to help keep blacks nice, deviating from the calibration slightly, but you do have to be happy at the same time.
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Here's a great quote on how HDR works differently to SDR:
So you see, with HDR, the TV should always be set to maximum light output because the TV, if following the EOTF curve, will never display content any brighter than how iy was mastered. By reducing OLED light in HDR, the parts of a scene intended to be bright will not get there. It's also why HDR sucks for daytime viewing, because you can't adjust the content brightness to match the ambient light in your environment.
Now consider that the OLEDs are producing 700-950 nits specular highlight, which is like a 2-10% window... and Dolby Vision as mastered to 4000 nits specular highlight. But i think your feeling HDR is too bright comes more from movies/games/shows jacking up APL to 200-400 nits, which causes eyestrain. But that is a content problem. SDR is masters to 100-150 nits, which translates to 20-35 OLED light if i am not mistaken.
Yup, I put in an order too yesterday too lol. I'm glad I'd saved since I didn't expect it to come until later in the summer.
I guess I'll be back to using both HDMI ports on the player so that I can send one directly to the TV and still get full audio from the receiver since my receiver probably won't pass through DV, just HDR10. ;)
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So in HDR keep OLED light and contrast at max and in SDR reduce OLED light? Is that right ?
Finally got the X900F (or XF900 depending on your region) and soundbar (the similarly named HT-X9000F) last night. Just barely did setup, so not much in the way of picture impressions, but:
Wall Mounting (aka: "Kids Mode")
- Compared to older thin TVs like the W800B/C which mount bottom-justified, the mounting holes for this are basically dead center. It was easy to mount though - just remove the 4 screws and go from there - you won't need a spacer because the back is flat.
- FWIW the soundbar still mounts the same on the wall as the CT-280, but maybe a half cm wider. Luckily the hanging holes are big enough that it just fit, anyway. I may end up getting a contractor to set new holes though, as the lower hanging TV means there isn't much of a gap between the two.
First Time Use
- Bezel on the X900F is clearly thinner than the B series, although not that it matters much, a tiny bit less trim at 55" is negligible. It's small.
- Awesome to finally have a local digital tuner. Probably the first time in 10 years where the channel buttons actually have become useful again.
- The soundbar is supposed to be easy to setup, but struggled for an hour until I finally did a factory reset of the soundbar. Now Bravia Sync is fine and everything is happy.
- There is an enhanced HDMI mode if you want to do a full passthrough on the soundbar, which is a good idea because only HDMI 2 and 3 (ARC) support 18Gbps bandwidth.
- Interestingly, Sony actually promotes the use of Bluetooth as an alternative to ARC. Both the TV and soundbar must support A2DP (which these do) so if you want to free up HDMI3 this is a legit way to do it. The quality level seems pretty high but I don't have the tools to compare it to HDMI ARC, which is also making use of compressed datastreams to support Dolby Atmos/DTS-X. Considering a soundbar is hardly a 7.1 Klipsch rig they may end up nearly identical. Either way, you get full Bravia Sync which means TV remote control and synchronous on/off.
- The soundbar is actively cooled. I can't hear it without my ear pressed to the back, but I guess that's why the manual says not to shove it in a cabinet.
I'll try "VERTICAL S." and of course a bunch of 4K content this week.
Wall Mounting (aka: "Kids Mode")
- Compared to older thin TVs like the W800B/C which mount bottom-justified, the mounting holes for this are basically dead center. It was easy to mount though - just remove the 4 screws and go from there - you won't need a spacer because the back is flat.
- FWIW the soundbar still mounts the same on the wall as the CT-280, but maybe a half cm wider. Luckily the hanging holes are big enough that it just fit, anyway. I may end up getting a contractor to set new holes though, as the lower hanging TV means there isn't much of a gap between the two.
First Time Use
- Bezel on the X900F is clearly thinner than the B series, although not that it matters much, a tiny bit less trim at 55" is negligible. It's small.
- Awesome to finally have a local digital tuner. Probably the first time in 10 years where the channel buttons actually have become useful again.
- The soundbar is supposed to be easy to setup, but struggled for an hour until I finally did a factory reset of the soundbar. Now Bravia Sync is fine and everything is happy.
- There is an enhanced HDMI mode if you want to do a full passthrough on the soundbar, which is a good idea because only HDMI 2 and 3 (ARC) support 18Gbps bandwidth.
- Interestingly, Sony actually promotes the use of Bluetooth as an alternative to ARC. Both the TV and soundbar must support A2DP (which these do) so if you want to free up HDMI3 this is a legit way to do it. The quality level seems pretty high but I don't have the tools to compare it to HDMI ARC, which is also making use of compressed datastreams to support Dolby Atmos/DTS-X. Considering a soundbar is hardly a 7.1 Klipsch rig they may end up nearly identical. Either way, you get full Bravia Sync which means TV remote control and synchronous on/off.
- The soundbar is actively cooled. I can't hear it without my ear pressed to the back, but I guess that's why the manual says not to shove it in a cabinet.
I'll try "VERTICAL S." and of course a bunch of 4K content this week.
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Yes for HDR. For SDR, you should set OLED light to what you are comfortable with. For example, for night time SDR with little to no ambient light I use 30 OLED light (45 for movies). For daytime SDR I use 65 OLED light, when there is a lot of ambient light.
Just adjust to what you feel looks right and is comfortable.
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Noticed my first case of pretty bad banding in Horizon: Zero Dawn. Ehhhh what are you gonna do.
Guys, you might be able to help me out here.
I've been meaning to jump into the 4k HDR bandwagon for a while but I'm on a budget. I have a PS4 Pro and that's really the only thing I'm going to be using my TV for. My current choice is the 43" LG UJ651V, which I've found for 422€. My budget extends to 500~€ however, so I'm open to suggestions. Any thoughts? I've been told that you don't really apreciate 4K that much unless you go into the 50"s.
Also, how good is the latency there?
I've been meaning to jump into the 4k HDR bandwagon for a while but I'm on a budget. I have a PS4 Pro and that's really the only thing I'm going to be using my TV for. My current choice is the 43" LG UJ651V, which I've found for 422€. My budget extends to 500~€ however, so I'm open to suggestions. Any thoughts? I've been told that you don't really apreciate 4K that much unless you go into the 50"s.
Also, how good is the latency there?
My Vizio P is starting to do a thing where the outside rim of the TV is noticeably brighter than the rest of the TV, like there's a band around it, particularly on the sides. I bought the Best Buy Geek Squad Protection; what's the name of this phenomena so I can figure out if it will warrant a replacement?
The default setting on the ISF Bright preset is 80. It's fine for me.
I don't understand TVs on a technical level but all my research has yielded that the B7A is fine -- I just bought mine in March and it's served me well, though I will stress that this is the first TV I've owned in just over a decade so I don't know the ins and outs of TV tech -- I just heard very positive things from a wide range of sources about the 2016 LG OLEDs and that the 2017 models marginally improved performance across the board so they were a good value for anyone that hadn't jumped in yet. I think my only lingering dislike with it is that the HDR Game mode definitely looks dimmer than the base HDR mode, but it can be compensated for with settings and generally still looks amazing in games once compensation is done (I achieve my compensation by tuning the Dynamic Contrast setting up to Medium and adjusting on a per-game settings basis as needed, to note).
If you're not aware, apparently all the 2017 LG OLEDs used the same panel and the price difference comes from form factor and extra feature considerations, so the B7A theoretically performs at the same level as any other LG OLED from 2017. The primary one that most people deemed the flagship was the C7, and to my knowledge, any review about the C7 in terms of picture quality will reflect the picture quality of the B7A, though they have differing built-in audio configurations so there is a disparity in audio.
Yes, as J_ToSaveTheDay mentions above, the B7, in terms of picture quality is no different from any of the other LG OLEDs of 2017. The C7 and B7 are almost exactly the same in terms of features too, just with a slightly different aesthetic. The 2018 OLEDs are reportedly not all that different from last year's either. Basically, keeping in mind your specific needs, you're looking at one of the best televisions you can buy right now. When people are discussing OLEDs in this thread, they're more than likely talking about this television here or a variant that's almost exactly the same in terms of PQ.
Hmm OK than you. I'm seeing some people say the c8 is brighter than the b7 and c7. Do y'all think it'd be worth the upgrade if I'm going to be using it for gaming and media?
It just depends on the price. If it's within a couple hundred dollars for you, I'd say maybe go with the C8, but I hear the increased brightness is overall a very marginal improvement over the 2017s, so if you can get a 2017 for way less, just go with that instead. Compensating for the lower brightness in HDR Game mode isn't difficult and it still produces very pleasing results.
Media playback via streaming or UHD Blu-Ray on the B7A has no issues for me, not even in terms of brightness. It's only the HDR Game mode.
Played some games in HDR yesterday evening and night. Major headache this morning. Seems I can't tolerate HDR which really blows.
You should use Bias lighting, it helps to reduce eye strain etc.
You would think so, but Rtings disagrees on the settings on my MU8000. This is what they say.
Only for low resolutions, which probably won't matter, for most of us.
That alpha9 processor seems to be more of a disappointement than anything really.
Upscaling is more or less equal, same with motion performance.
I was expecting LG to be more competitive with what Sony or Pana offers.
Upscaling is more or less equal, same with motion performance.
I was expecting LG to be more competitive with what Sony or Pana offers.
Something I noticed while playing Mario Odyssey on my B7 last night..
I was in the snow world, so lots of white. I panned the camera up towards the sky and the picture for super dim all of a sudden. What could be causing this? Is there a setting that's doing it? I haven't really noticed it with any other content but it was really jarring and distracting.
I was in the snow world, so lots of white. I panned the camera up towards the sky and the picture for super dim all of a sudden. What could be causing this? Is there a setting that's doing it? I haven't really noticed it with any other content but it was really jarring and distracting.
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Yeah honestly, between the C7 and C8 I don't notice a difference in upscaling. Motion seems maybe 10% smoother in 24p content.
The menu speed feels 50% faster if thats believable lol
In general settings do you have the energy saving feature turned off?
Sounds like ABL, depending on how high your SDR OLED light is, will determine how noticeable ABL is when it happens, snow white level is a classic case.
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