At a guess, it would make them monstrously expensive to run. They are already power hungry as it is. Also perhaps heat?
I think they are trying to dodge government regulation along these lines.
At a guess, it would make them monstrously expensive to run. They are already power hungry as it is. Also perhaps heat?
Thanks for your answer.
I did a bit a of tweaking earlier and I came to the conclusion that the colors depth setting that was the issue. I had it set at 10bit 4:2:2 chroma. When resetting back the colors setting to default it effectively worked flawlessly at 1440p and 1800p (I made a mistake when I said 1600p) just by using custom res in NV control panel (no CRU involved).
So as of now, SDR gaming is perfect but I'm stuck at 1080p or 4k for HDR...
Guess I'll need one of those new ampere GPU for that flawless 4k60 HDR gaming ^^'
EDIT: I'm curious about 5.1 audio though, because I can only output 2 ch. Audio, I don't have an option for more than that in the sound settings (PC -> HDMI -> LG C7 -> Optical/HDMI Arc -> Phillips Fidelio E5). I never really dug into it but having DTS or Dolby would be icing the cake !
Idk why but the DV setting is just too damn dark. I can't even tamper with the settings on the blu-ray player or my x930e.Dolby Vision update is live for the Sony x700, might actually go pick this up now.
Got an opportunity to get a Samsung MU7000 for $500....I currently dont have a 4k and am wondering if this is a good thing to bite at. TV is use literally only for gaming and Netflix and a bluray once in a blue moon.
Those of you that have bought abTV in the last couple of years - what's your trigger for an upgrade? I'm hoping things settle down with
- HDMI2.1
- VRR with a decent range of frame rate
- HDR with around 1500 nits peak would be ok (I hope OLED or similar tech can achieve this, or FALD with a lot more zones)
- ARC with atnos support (although I'm waiting for hdmi 2.1 to upgrade my receiver)
In my mind I'm hoping 2020 sets for this, and if Sony keep their minimal stand design I might be able to go from 55-65". I'd guess 2019 first round sets will inevitably have some issues
Any big jumps in tech coming in the next couple of years that will help - especially getting more nits from self emissive displays (I often watch in a very bright room so currently I'm LCD)
When it kicks in the brightness will noticeably decrease. When I first got my B7 and was experimenting with settings, I was playing Super Mario Odyssey with OLED Light set to 100. The image would dull a lot depending what was on the screen at the time. Very distracting.Don't understand what ABL is. What do I look for to see it on the OLED?
Those of you that have bought abTV in the last couple of years - what's your trigger for an upgrade? I'm hoping things settle down with
- HDMI2.1
- VRR with a decent range of frame rate
- HDR with around 1500 nits peak would be ok (I hope OLED or similar tech can achieve this, or FALD with a lot more zones)
- ARC with atnos support (although I'm waiting for hdmi 2.1 to upgrade my receiver)
In my mind I'm hoping 2020 sets for this, and if Sony keep their minimal stand design I might be able to go from 55-65". I'd guess 2019 first round sets will inevitably have some issues
Any big jumps in tech coming in the next couple of years that will help - especially getting more nits from self emissive displays (I often watch in a very bright room so currently I'm LCD)
You're a life saver ... Picture mode custom? if you dont mind, tell all the changes you made to your custom picture settings lol, like the reds/blues/greens should be at what number.
So the monitor isnt good for HDR? What I've noticed is that for some games it's way too bright .... Far Cry 5, the nights looked too bright, same with AC Origins. ... But some games it looks noticeably good.
But yeah, I love the monitor, was a huge upgrade from my previous. I only just wish I had enough space in my room to put up an actual 55 inch HDR capable tv or something ... The monitor was my only choice for the size.
Those of you that have bought abTV in the last couple of years - what's your trigger for an upgrade? I'm hoping things settle down with
- HDMI2.1
- VRR with a decent range of frame rate
- HDR with around 1500 nits peak would be ok (I hope OLED or similar tech can achieve this, or FALD with a lot more zones)
- ARC with atnos support (although I'm waiting for hdmi 2.1 to upgrade my receiver)
In my mind I'm hoping 2020 sets for this, and if Sony keep their minimal stand design I might be able to go from 55-65". I'd guess 2019 first round sets will inevitably have some issues
Any big jumps in tech coming in the next couple of years that will help - especially getting more nits from self emissive displays (I often watch in a very bright room so currently I'm LCD)
I don't have an OLED but I've seen videos that showed ABL kicking in when viewing a screen that is mostly white. Like if you used a PC and the windows file explorerDon't understand what ABL is. What do I look for to see it on the OLED?
When it kicks in the brightness will noticeably decrease. When I first got my B7 and was experimenting with settings, I was playing Super Mario Odyssey with OLED Light set to 100. The image would dull a lot depending what was on the screen at the time. Very distracting.
I haven't seen it since lowering the OLED Light setting. I think that I use 75 for SDR now.
I haven't seen it since lowering the OLED Light setting. I think that I use 75 for SDR now.
So looking at the video you posted it seems by VRR there isn't any stuttering as there is with 30fps.Here's a great video showcasing what VRR does: https://www.testufo.com/vrr
Why is it exciting? Games no longer have to be tied to either 30 or 60 FPS to achieve judder/stutter free motion as seen in the video above. Input lag would be reduced as vsync is not needed when the display syncs to the frame rate of the game.
So looking at the video you posted it seems by VRR there isn't any stuttering as there is with 30fps.
I haven't seen it since lowering the OLED Light setting. I think that I use 75 for SDR now.
What's your recommended setting for SDR?You've got to be careful with a high OLED light for SDR, can really increase noise and degrade above black handling further.
It's an issue with the P series and their updates have made it worse. I just replaced my 75" P after Vizio service basically admitted they can't do anything about it and to wait for their shitty updates to fix it.I have the 2016 50- inch Vizio P Series, and an Xbox One X. Every time that I turn on my Xbox, it fails to recognize that my TV's UHD color setting is already on and says my TV doesn't support HDR, and I have to flick off UHD Color input settings and then turn it back on again before the Xbox will recognize it. My PS4 doesn't do the same thing, so my inclination is that it's a problem on the Xbox end, but I'm just wondering if anybody else has had this problem and how they were able to overcome it?
With HDR its supposed to be kept at 100, I find it fineI don't know how anyone can watch HDR or SDR at that light level without burning their eyeballs out
What's your recommended setting for SDR?
With 2.4 gamma, I find the blacks are too much crushed for my taste under 40 OLED light.
I don't know how anyone can watch HDR or SDR at that light level without burning their eyeballs out
With HDR's EOTF, it's… easier. Not exactly easy, but better than it was. At the mastering stage, the content creators can say "OK, I want the brightest part of my show to be 1,000 nits." That refers to the brightest visual moment, such as a glint off a window or a flashlight in the darkness. The mastering team then builds the rest of the brightness levels around this: This shadow is 50 nits, that cloudy sky is 600 nits, and so on.
Yup, I put in an order too yesterday too lol. I'm glad I'd saved since I didn't expect it to come until later in the summer.Dolby Vision update is live for the Sony x700, might actually go pick this up now.
Here's a great quote on how HDR works differently to SDR:
So you see, with HDR, the TV should always be set to maximum light output because the TV, if following the EOTF curve, will never display content any brighter than how iy was mastered. By reducing OLED light in HDR, the parts of a scene intended to be bright will not get there. It's also why HDR sucks for daytime viewing, because you can't adjust the content brightness to match the ambient light in your environment.
Now consider that the OLEDs are producing 700-950 nits specular highlight, which is like a 2-10% window... and Dolby Vision as mastered to 4000 nits specular highlight. But i think your feeling HDR is too bright comes more from movies/games/shows jacking up APL to 200-400 nits, which causes eyestrain. But that is a content problem. SDR is masters to 100-150 nits, which translates to 20-35 OLED light if i am not mistaken.
So in HDR keep OLED light and contrast at max and in SDR reduce OLED light? Is that right ?
The default setting on the ISF Bright preset is 80. It's fine for me.I don't know how anyone can watch HDR or SDR at that light level without burning their eyeballs out
So I'm looking for a new oled 65" TV. Does anyone have the
LG B7A? Rtings says it's a good TV but I just want to double check.
So I'm looking for a new oled 65" TV. Does anyone have the
LG B7A? Rtings says it's a good TV but I just want to double check.
I don't understand TVs on a technical level but all my research has yielded that the B7A is fine -- I just bought mine in March and it's served me well, though I will stress that this is the first TV I've owned in just over a decade so I don't know the ins and outs of TV tech -- I just heard very positive things from a wide range of sources about the 2016 LG OLEDs and that the 2017 models marginally improved performance across the board so they were a good value for anyone that hadn't jumped in yet. I think my only lingering dislike with it is that the HDR Game mode definitely looks dimmer than the base HDR mode, but it can be compensated for with settings and generally still looks amazing in games once compensation is done (I achieve my compensation by tuning the Dynamic Contrast setting up to Medium and adjusting on a per-game settings basis as needed, to note).
If you're not aware, apparently all the 2017 LG OLEDs used the same panel and the price difference comes from form factor and extra feature considerations, so the B7A theoretically performs at the same level as any other LG OLED from 2017. The primary one that most people deemed the flagship was the C7, and to my knowledge, any review about the C7 in terms of picture quality will reflect the picture quality of the B7A, though they have differing built-in audio configurations so there is a disparity in audio.
Yes, as J_ToSaveTheDay mentions above, the B7, in terms of picture quality is no different from any of the other LG OLEDs of 2017. The C7 and B7 are almost exactly the same in terms of features too, just with a slightly different aesthetic. The 2018 OLEDs are reportedly not all that different from last year's either. Basically, keeping in mind your specific needs, you're looking at one of the best televisions you can buy right now. When people are discussing OLEDs in this thread, they're more than likely talking about this television here or a variant that's almost exactly the same in terms of PQ.
Hmm OK than you. I'm seeing some people say the c8 is brighter than the b7 and c7. Do y'all think it'd be worth the upgrade if I'm going to be using it for gaming and media?
Played some games in HDR yesterday evening and night. Major headache this morning. Seems I can't tolerate HDR which really blows.
You would think so, but Rtings disagrees on the settings on my MU8000. This is what they say.
Dont forget the alpha 9 processor in the C8 makes upscaling alot better than the C7 and brings it very close to the Sony, though not quite, but still better than the C7.
That alpha9 processor seems to be more of a disappointement than anything really.
Upscaling is more or less equal, same with motion performance.
I was expecting LG to be more competitive with what Sony or Pana offers.
Something I noticed while playing Mario Odyssey on my B7 last night..
I was in the snow world, so lots of white. I panned the camera up towards the sky and the picture for super dim all of a sudden. What could be causing this? Is there a setting that's doing it? I haven't really noticed it with any other content but it was really jarring and distracting.
Something I noticed while playing Mario Odyssey on my B7 last night..
I was in the snow world, so lots of white. I panned the camera up towards the sky and the picture for super dim all of a sudden. What could be causing this? Is there a setting that's doing it? I haven't really noticed it with any other content but it was really jarring and distracting.