Alas you should have held on, some of them sell for crazy money at the moment lol.Love the old school Record router DBT85.
About 2 years ago I inheritated my old man's vintage tool collection. Must have been 100+ planes, old American Stanley's pre-1900, Records, Australian made one's, heaps of wooden ones, Mathieson and mainland Euro one's etc... Even some new American ones, Veritas and Lie-Nielsen. I've sold a heap as I have no room for 100 planes but I've kept a nice handful for myself.
He also collected saws so now I have 50+ Disston's, Spear and Jackson and some other wild stuff. And Braces. And Chisels!
Alas you should have held on, some of them sell for crazy money at the moment lol.
It's part of my attempt to learn some new hand tool skills. I've powertools for basically everything but noise/dust are a pain and I like the idea of trying to work by hand a bit. Even bought an old brace and bit and hand drill so that when complete I can say that my workbench will be 100% hand made (once the timber had been chopped down, sawn, planed by machine before I bought it :P)
it's not threaded on the inside. How would I go about it?If it were me, personally, no. I'd at the minimum flare the end so that I'd get a better seal on the hose.
Cool deal. Thank you very much!
I'd need the hole on the garage side to be big enough to feed the Ethernet connector through, which leaves a pretty large gap once its just flat cable hanging in there. Can one spray insulation foam around the hole once the cable is in place to try to mitigate any drafts, or will that damage the cable?
You can cut it off and put a new one on. It's really easy. Honest.I had already bought a cable with connectors attached, so I'll still have to get the cable through connector and all.
Is there anywhere brick and mortar to buy some RJ45 connectors cheap? I had already bought a bag of RJ11s for the other part of the project as part of a large Amazon order, and I don't have Prime so I don't want to order online if I don't have to.You can cut it off and put a new one on. It's really easy. Honest.
In th eUS, no idea. Ebay is usually good for that sort of thing.Is there anywhere brick and mortar to buy some RJ45 connectors cheap? I had already bought a bag of RJ11s for the other part of the project as part of a large Amazon order, and I don't have Prime so I don't want to order online if I don't have to.
Do you happen to work anywhere where you might lift some from the IT dept?I actually do have a 2-in-1 crimping tool that I had originally just gotten to deal with the phone cable. Since I'm running a significantly shorter length from the family room to the garage than it would have been from the kitchen into the basement, I may just chop up the cable (50') into smaller pieces since I'd need one for the ONT to the wall plug, then one from the wall plug to the router. I had checked eBay, but it seems Walmart actually sells them cheaper, though still have to buy a 50pc. bag and wait a few days for it to get to the store for pickup.
Cheers dude. Should hope so it's taken me ages.Thanks for the kind words. My son loves it.
That bench looking good.
Is it a hollow-core door?Does anyone have an idea on how to add soundproofing to a light bedroom door? It goes between a bedroom and the laundry room/ducts to everywhere in the house. So attaching something to to back of the door would be out of the way for the guests and wouldn't be looked at when it mattered. I'm looking for an idea beyond actual waffle sound proofing material because it would be touched and wear down. Maybe frosting spray insulation on plywood and sandwiching it to the door? Thoughts?
If it's raw plywood I'd use primer on it first, maybe a couple of coats. I've never seen the "wood equivalent" of a paint though, maybe that has primer in it, guys at the paint store would knowI've a question about paint:
Got a tub of Valspar V700 to paint a very light grey onto a wall. The wall is currently white. Two coats should do nicely.
In the same room the radiator pipes have been boxed in with plywood. I want to paint this wood the same colour as the wall. If I get the wood equivalent of the paint in the same light grey colour, will it be the same colour as the wall after the usual two coats? Or will it need a trillion coats? Or must I paint it white first?
I've a question about paint:
Got a tub of Valspar V700 to paint a very light grey onto a wall. The wall is currently white. Two coats should do nicely.
In the same room the radiator pipes have been boxed in with plywood. I want to paint this wood the same colour as the wall. If I get the wood equivalent of the paint in the same light grey colour, will it be the same colour as the wall after the usual two coats? Or will it need a trillion coats? Or must I paint it white first?
"Making a particular color" and "hiding what's underneath" are kind of two different jobs for paint. When you end up having to paint something a whole bunch of times, it's because the color was never designed to hide what's underneath. They assume you're painting over an ideal surface, and then two coats of color should be perfect to make everything look nice and even.I've a question about paint:
Got a tub of Valspar V700 to paint a very light grey onto a wall. The wall is currently white. Two coats should do nicely.
In the same room the radiator pipes have been boxed in with plywood. I want to paint this wood the same colour as the wall. If I get the wood equivalent of the paint in the same light grey colour, will it be the same colour as the wall after the usual two coats? Or will it need a trillion coats? Or must I paint it white first?
"Plumber's putty". It's like play-doh, and you pull some out of the container, smoosh it around in your hands a lot until it gets nice and soft and flexible, and then you use your expert kindergarten skills to shape it into a long, thin snake, and apply it in an oval around the base of the new faucet fixture which you're going to install.Just a brief question:
I'm going to have to replace the faucet on a bathroom sink. Is it customary to always seal around the base with silicone caulk or something or do some people not do that anymore?
Thanks for the advice. I'll look for some of that at Home Depot tomorrow."Plumber's putty". It's like play-doh, and you pull some out of the container, smoosh it around in your hands a lot until it gets nice and soft and flexible, and then you use your expert kindergarten skills to shape it into a long, thin snake, and apply it in an oval around the base of the new faucet fixture which you're going to install.
Place the faucet in place, smoosh it down a little, hop under the sink and tighten the nuts to secure the faucet in place. Climb out from underneath and look up top, and you should see a bunch of plumber's putty oozing out from underneath the faucet. Scoop that excess up and put it back in the can (it's still good, so long as it's clean).
Now you should have a waterproof seal covering the entire area between the faucet and the sink. No silicone necessary.
It's all good. Almost every faucet I've seen comes with a simple plastic base. This particular manufacturer removed it for the photos to show off the metal insides. Someone even asked in the questions if it has a plastic base, and one of the previous customers confirmed that it does.Thanks for the advice. I'll look for some of that at Home Depot tomorrow.
I ordered this faucet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3210U1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Looking at the ventral view, it appears that while the thing is fully metal, rather than chromed plastic like others, the base is pretty thin all around. Is that going to be a problem or do I just let a little more than usual get squished out and hope for the best?
I would get a retrofit shutoff valve like one (or two) of these.I finally cleaned out the cabinet under the sink to open up my workspace. Now one huge problem...I can't turn the hot water shutoff valve. I guess I could take a wrench and try to torque it around a bit, but I'm afraid I'll somehow just end up snapping off the whole wall pipe and flooding stuff. I don't want to shut off the entire house if I can help it, partly because I once tried to turn the valve there and couldn't turn that either. Is there some relatively safe way to try to force the valve?