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70 OLED Light for DV? lol there are so many things wrong with these settings and people will blindly copy them and mess up their picture, oh well..
You must pair these settings with the USB DV Cinema custom profile, otherwise PQ and DV tone mapping will not be accurate.
Yep, 2018 series Game Mode latency is a bit less but still around 15 ms.
2017 series outside Game Modes latency fluctuates around is 65-100 ms between modes and enabled post processing effects
.01ms response time on a TV? You're going to have to get a PC monitor for that, TV's aren't close to that. 20ms is very good when it comes to TV's though. I think the Sony OLEDS are higher for example.
I just cant get used to HDR Game Mode on my C7. Its just so damn dim, it really ruines my HDR feel. Horizon Zero Dawn for example is nearly unplayable when its dark in the game on my PS4 Pro with Game Mode, Standard is just more vivid and bright. Tried Horizon 4 on X earlier to see if it changed, but it feels like you're constantly racing in overcast so to say. I tweaked my HDR Standard mode to my liking, but I will check your HDR Technicolor Mode settings to see if its better. Some of the colors in Standard can be a tad bright/off, but the added brightness is worth that trade off for me personally.
I am not affected by input lag as I barely notice it and play exclusively single player games.
I am not affected by input lag as I barely notice it and play exclusively single player games.
Forza Horizon 4 has some good HDR calibration settings ingame, i switched between HDR Game and Technicolor and didn't really see an immediate difference compared to what i did on Spiderman for example.
Standard HDR mode has the worst tone mapping of all LG modes, I would totally avoid it.
With calibrated HDR Game Mode and X1X, Forza Horizon 4 (set @ 3.500 nits in HDR Video Settings) is absolutely glorious on my B7.
Guys, I don't think you should blindly copy these settings. There are many things which are unusual. I'm gonna quote DOT from the TV thread.
If you're gonna copy settings, I'd stick with RTINGs.
Read what again? that you need to install a mysterious Custom DV pre-calibrated file with it? You don't even know what was changed in that profile.
Also, this.
The DV file is an update for the DV Cinema tone mapping, making it less dim in most scenes (due to how all DV contents are mastered at 4.000 nits reference and over, and these are 700 nits TVs) , while preserving highlights and curve. Together with this "fix", all other settings should be set in order to also have more accurate and natural colors, especially for skin tones.
External DV certified equipment and workflow was used to create that custom file.
If you don't like the results you can still revert back just restoring DV Cinema preset to its defaults or factory reset the TV.
That's why RTINGS recommends Cinema Home instead of Cinema, because it's brighter.
From their site:
When the TV detects Dolby Vision HDR content, it will also give you 5 'HDR Picture Mode' options. For movies, the 'Cinema Home' picture mode is the best option available since it will give you more control of the settings, again similar to what you have access with 'IFS Expert (Dark Room)' with SDR content and similarly to the HDR10 setting, here the 'Cinema home' is also brighter than the other mode. When in Dolby Vision HDR, the recommended 'OLED LIGHT' setting is 50. Raising 'OLED LIGHT' higher than 50 will raise the 'Gamma', so this can help if you notice black crush (loss of detail in the black regions of the screen).
DV Cinema Home is overly bright, with slightly clipped highlights and raised black. It is also affected by the "white flash" and "static gray box" bug during black frame scenes transition (e.g. Stranger Things S02E1).
DV Cinema is more accurate, it only needs a slightly higher gamma and better flesh tones, and USB file + custom settings help quite a bit in that.
Hurm, I remember seeing an article on Eurogamer last year where they dug into the configuration for the B6 (which is pretty similar to the 7 in terms of calibration) but now I can't for the life of me find it. I remember it because I read it around the same time I bought my B6.
It seems RTings recommends 0, so I guess that's best! Ignore my previous comments.
There is a tricky thing about the sharpness setting on the B7, tho. I wondered why there was a sharpness slider AND an additional "Edge Enhancer" setting, so I did some testing. Turns out, the sharpness setting does NOTHING if Edge Enhancer is off. Edge Enhancer is literally a "Use the sharpness slider?" toggle. You can test this yourself by cranking the slider to max then toggle Edge Enhancer on and off.
RTINGs incorrectly states having it "On" is really off, when in truth it should be off if you want no sharpness and the sharpness slider then just does nothing.
I know they made a video, if that helps. Not sure there was an actual article.
With Sharpness at 0 texts, menus and subtitles are a bit blurry, even in Native 4K sources.
Setting it at 10 provides clear texts without oversharpening artifacts at all.
They are in fact not "needed", but it's a fine tuning to make the RGB curve and colors even closer to target and, at the same time, have more natural colors on screen, especially for skin tones.
The TV Foot Lumens target was 55 for SDR, an "happy medium" (together with the other settings) to fit both Dark/Dim Rooms, but you can adjust SDR OLED Light to your preference based on room light conditions.
You should post the DV file on the AVS calibration thread if you want validation. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...96-lg-2017-oled-dolby-vision-calibration.html
Unfortunately "PC Input" mode is severely bugged with LG 2017 OLED series.
"PC Input" is good on paper because mantains 21ms low input lag with any SDR/HDR/DV preset, but with big downsides:
- It always forces Chroma Subsampling at 4:4:4, and this auto downgrade both HDR and DV from 10-bit to 8-bit, no matter how you setup all the rest. This will translate to much worse color banding, tone mapping;
- Rec2020 color gamut is not loaded properly in HDR/DV, and all colors look washed out
- All Dynamic Contrast options are greyed out, so Active HDR can never be enabled setting DC to Low while being in that Input, even using technicolor HDR preset
Or use "PC Input" only for real "PC" usage, for SDR/8-Bit content only (but this would just waste the 4K/HDR10 capability of the TV?)
Oh I see, I have an E6 OLED, but I will stick to my calibrated picture settings for my PC then as well. Thank you for the insight :)
Point 2. and 3. for sure with latest 2018 series firmware, but point 1. is just a physical bandwidth limitation of HDMI 2.0. Cannot be addressed by software, but only with an HDMI 2.1 Certified TV.
So I would still not use "PC Input" mode for 2018 models as 10-bit HDR is more important and impactful than 4:4:4 Chroma
Please read my post again. The sharpness slider has no effect on the picture if Edge Enhancer is turned off, so turning Edge Enhancer off disables all artificial sharpening.
Edge Enhancer On both for SDR and HDR is LG recommended value for professional calibrators, and EE coupled with Sharpness at 10 provide the best definition of texts and fine details so far.
The only time artificial sharpening should be used is for poor quality sources, like cable.
Sharpness at 10 is the 2017 OLEDs "neutral value". No oversharpening.
EE Disabled anr/or Sharpness at 0 blur the whole PQ (mainly texts) a bit
Do you have any proof of this? I've heard others say this before, but could never find a source.
Mine has been pro calibrated with sharpness at 10, 0 is too soft.
would sharpening a game while in game mode make it have more artifacts technically? probably right? I forget what value i have it on
Ah, you said most of this users settings were wrong but this one is actually correct? Damn, even RTINGs got that wrong then. TV settings are such a mess. So your set was calibrated with Sharpness 10 and EE on? Would you mind posting your full calibration settings?
Didn't see sharpness, but CMS is a total no go, also DV calibration is not workable either, it's one thing heavily changing CMS on your own set, but then for others to use it is crazy.
Dang it. I had it set to 10 for years on my 1080p oled and then I read that it had to be 0 so I changed it to that and I've had my b7 set to 0 since I got it. Back to 10 it is after work!
Have you ever posted your full calibration settings somewhere? I'd love to try them out.
Glad this thread popped up because my 2017 B7A has some very noticeable color banding in HDR especially with Sea of Thieves. I can not figure out if it's normal, SoT issue, Xbox issue or tv issue. I will provide a picture when I get home but when looking at the sky you can clearly see when shades of blue are changing. Anyone else have an issue like this?
I appreciate the work you've put into this. I have a B7 which is hands down the best looking TV I've ever seen and absolutely worth the higher than normal price I'd usually consider for a TV.
However, to my admittedly untrained eye, I think the picture settings look good as they are without any tinkering. The only thing I've done is lower the brightness in HDR mode - Destiny 2 was nearly blinding on my One X with the white/bright grey loading screen and menus.
Fiddling with the settings on TVs and wondering if things look just right gives me anxiety. It's the same reason I've switched from Android to iOS - Android has so many options to tinker with and toggle to your liking and iOS restricts me in a way that I don't have that itch.
However, to my admittedly untrained eye, I think the picture settings look good as they are without any tinkering. The only thing I've done is lower the brightness in HDR mode - Destiny 2 was nearly blinding on my One X with the white/bright grey loading screen and menus.
Fiddling with the settings on TVs and wondering if things look just right gives me anxiety. It's the same reason I've switched from Android to iOS - Android has so many options to tinker with and toggle to your liking and iOS restricts me in a way that I don't have that itch.
