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I've tried that. It says "DirectX setup has determined that a newer or equivalent version of DirectX has been installed already. No installation is necessary."
I hope its ok if I bump this one time for the new page. If this is not ok, please let me know.I'm having trouble running 2 games on Steam that appear to use DirectX 9. When I try to run Fire Pro Wrestling World, the "preparing to launch..." box shows up, then nothing happens. When I try to run Dead Cells, I get the following error:
Dead Cells only runs in Legacy (OpenGL) mode. Here's a list of things I've tried:
-Verifying game files in Steam
-Reinstalling the games
-Running the games from File Explorer (double-clicking on the .exe)
-Running a Sophos virus scan
-Updating my Nvidia Graphics driver twice (up to date as of July 23rd)
When I open DXdiag, it doesn't list any issues. What else should I try? I'll provide more information if needed.
Update: Add Ori and the Blind Forest: Definitive Edition to the list. "Preparing to launch..." box comes up, then nothing happens.
Update: I figured it out. On a whim, I disabled RivaTuner Statistics Server (I used it to cap my refresh rate at 140 for my G-Sync monitor), and the games launch now, so I'll stop using RTSS. Not sure why that made a difference, but at least it's fixed now.
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Hey people, I currently have a second HDD storing all of my games that's full. I just bought a 1TB SSD to store my games in instead. My OS is on a completely separate SSD. Can I just cut and paste my Steam or Blizzard etc game folders to my new SSD and point the launchers to the new location?
If you want to make it even more painless, you can create symlinks on the original drive and move the data over and it'll be as if nothing moved.
The difference being that I wouldn't have to redirect the launchers?
How about if I set the drive letter of my new SSD to be the same as my extra HDD? Would that work? That just has media so I don't mind changing the letter
You can't have multiple drives with one drive letter unless you have spanned or striped volumes which you'd need to reformat to be able to do.
Yeah I'd say so. RAM prices are getting back to normal, SSD's are cheaper then ever, CPU's are in a really good place now and no major hardware seems to be releasing soon that people would want to wait for.
I would change the drive letters.
So basically I'm asking if it's ok to simply replace a harddrive and move game files rather than reinstalling those games.
If it's at all cleaner to reinstall the games I would probably go that route but if it makes no difference then I'd just copy
Steam should rediscover the files, unsure about the other launchers.
I use Steam Mover. You pick your target game in its folder, you pick the destination folder and click move. It will take care of the rest.
I always download games on my 4tb drive then use Steam Mover to get games I play on a SSD. I've been using this for at least 5 years now.
Okay, I end up battling this every now and then and always forget how to fix it when it happens again.
I just did a clean install, of Windows and all my programs, and now for whatever reason my GPU (1080ti) stays clocked at full speed all of the time. I've gone into windows and made sure my power settings are on balanced, the NVidia control panel has the power management on adaptive. Even if I put my screen refresh rate down to 60hz, my GPU is remaining clocked at 1900+ mhz. Everything I search for online is basically "lower your refresh rate, GPUs don't downlock when at 144hz+" which is just not true, as prior today my GPU would down clock itself to 300 while nothing was running.
Anyone know how to fix this? I need to write it down once and for all.
I just did a clean install, of Windows and all my programs, and now for whatever reason my GPU (1080ti) stays clocked at full speed all of the time. I've gone into windows and made sure my power settings are on balanced, the NVidia control panel has the power management on adaptive. Even if I put my screen refresh rate down to 60hz, my GPU is remaining clocked at 1900+ mhz. Everything I search for online is basically "lower your refresh rate, GPUs don't downlock when at 144hz+" which is just not true, as prior today my GPU would down clock itself to 300 while nothing was running.
Anyone know how to fix this? I need to write it down once and for all.
This shouldn't happen to begin with and you have had it happen multiple times? I would rma the card if I were you.
Ever since I've been looking at changing my i5 4460 3.2ghz, 8gb DDR3 ram , GTX 970 Gaming PC, I've been wondering what would be the better deal between a 2070 and a 1070. Is a 1070 still a good upgrade compared to a 970?
I mean, my 970 is still pretty damn good for 1440p gaming, at least from what I've played, so it's not like I'm in a hurry... I think upgrading my ram to 16gb might be better value at this point?
I mean, my 970 is still pretty damn good for 1440p gaming, at least from what I've played, so it's not like I'm in a hurry... I think upgrading my ram to 16gb might be better value at this point?
I wouldn't spend money on DDR3 RAM atm, especially since you're more than due for a CPU upgrade - and that would facilitate DDR4 RAM.
It's always been a power management setting or something like Shadowplay is running in the background, it's been an easy fix before. I did just update the drivers today so that might be it.
What tool are you using to determine the clock?
Just in case, you could bring up the Task Manager and check if there's any program using the GPU (sort by GPU utilization).
GPU Tweak II. Task manager only shows Desktop Window Manager as using much GPU. Just disabled hardware acceleration in Firefox.
Right now I'm using Nvidia inspector's monitor power saving tool which brings things down to 608Mhz, but I'm pretty sure this was a temporary fix I used to use, as right now it's locked at that number, but it used to hover and fluctuate around 198 when i had fixed this before.
If you are fine with what you have I would just wait and do a full new build. If you are itching to upgrade, a gpu would be better, ddr3 is pretty much dead.
Hey PC era,
I have a build that I completed last year and it has a i7-8700k with a H100i Corsair cooler, I've never overclocked but I heard that it can yield performance gains in video editing. Does anyone have a good resource of overclocking, particularly for a dummy like myself lol. Or if anyone has a similar setup could you share your OC settings?
I have a build that I completed last year and it has a i7-8700k with a H100i Corsair cooler, I've never overclocked but I heard that it can yield performance gains in video editing. Does anyone have a good resource of overclocking, particularly for a dummy like myself lol. Or if anyone has a similar setup could you share your OC settings?
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What's the best way to monitor cpu temperatures and/or control fans? Msi afterburner has been been giving erroneously (?) high temps (~80C) and it doesn't even sound like the fans are kicking on. I just downloaded speedfan and its giving temps in the mid 60s so I don't know what to trust. It's a dell inspiron with an added 1070ti if that matters.
Anyone know if it's possible to use an HDMI Splitter with an Elgato HD60S to record gameplay on my PC, but be actually playing on my TV screen? Can't seem to find an answer on it.
No need for a splitter for that - you can just connect the Elgato USB to your PC and the HDMI directly to your TV.
When booting up windows 10 and going to the log in screen, my pc won't react to my keyboard. I have to use the on screen keyboard to punch my pin in.
Keyboard works completely fine once into windows. Fix?
Keyboard works completely fine once into windows. Fix?
Try a different USB port, preferably the one which is marked for keyboard connection on the back of your motherboard.
Also check what settings you have enabled in your BIOS wrt to USB devices being accessible outside of Windows.
This is probably a stupid question but when it comes to making backups of files and folders I'm looking for a way to effectively ''clone'' the contents of a folder.
Let's say I have a folder that contains several documents, music, videos etc that I delete files from on a regular basis. If I just copy/paste this onto my backup drive and choose to not overwrite, new files will be copied over but the files I've deleted since the previous backup will remain on the backup drive. Any quick and easy way around this or do I need software?
Let's say I have a folder that contains several documents, music, videos etc that I delete files from on a regular basis. If I just copy/paste this onto my backup drive and choose to not overwrite, new files will be copied over but the files I've deleted since the previous backup will remain on the backup drive. Any quick and easy way around this or do I need software?
Are you talking about an automated process to backup new files only, while keeping the already backed up ones, so you can safely delete them from the original drive?
Doesn't have to be automated, I connect my external drive once a month or something to perform backup.
I don't want to delete anything from the original drive, I just want to delete the files I have deleted since the previous backup on the backup drive.
Example: File 1, File 2, File 3 on Folder X currently exists on the backup drive from last month.
Today the files on Folder X (original drive) contains File 1, File 3, File 4 and File 5. This means File 2 has been deleted and File 4 and 5 are new.
I want a way to quickly mirror the contents which means File 2 would have to be deleted from the backup drive folder while copying File 4 and 5.
Currently i have to delete the entire folder from the backup drive and just copy over hundreds of gigs again if I want a true copy of the current folder.
So, you basically want to keep the files synchronized between drives, with all deleted files gone for good in both the original drive and the backed up one? I know that's something that most cloud storage services do automatically (to keep folders in sync), but I'm not familiar with any local storage automated solutions.
I did find a "a folder comparison and synchronization software" called FreeFileSync, after searching for a solution to your problem. I've never used it before, so I can't really vouch for it, but it is open source, which is always a plus. You might want to give it a try. If you do, please report back and let us know if it worked.
Thanks, I'll try it out. Ideally I wanted to find a solution in the OS itself, but I'll try that program.
Use the CMD Windows and robocopy (or create at batch-File). Robocopy comes with the OS.
That does look like an interesting solution. There's even a GUI wrapper for it, made by a Microsoft engineer.
This article also mentions exactly what Sky87 seems to be looking for:
What makes robocopy really shine is not it's ability to copy files, but it's ability to mirror one directory into another. That means it'll not just copy files, it'll also delete any extra files in the destination directory.
Wikipedia lists RichCopy as an alternative (made by another MS employee), but, apparently, it has quite a few bugs and the software hasn't received any updates or fixes since 2009.
You mentioned the CPU temp. MSI AB should indicate the GPU temp, so that's probably why the readings are different. I have a 1080 Ti and also use MSI AB (for overclocking) and SpeedFan (for monitoring temps and controlling fans). Make sure that the GPU temps match in both programs.
If you just want to monitor temperatures, there's not much else to do aside from looking at the readings provided (unless you're into Rainmeter, then there's this cool system monitor skin), but if you'd also like to actually control fan speeds based on those temps, here's a great video from JayzTwoCents on how to setup SpeedFan, and another one on how to make it start with Windows. You can also make SpeedFan run as a system service.
Just bear in mind that BattlEye is known for killing SpeedFan, which can cause your temperatures to rise to dangerous levels if the program is not configured correctly (it should make fans run at 100% when it's shut down). There's no fix to it, as SpeedFan has been abandoned by its developer.
So, if you play any online multiplayer games that use BattlEye (PUBG, DayZ and Rainbow Six: Siege are a few ones - Fortnite apparently has been updated to allow SpeedFan, but I can't personally confirm that), you may want to look into alternatives to that software. Argus Monitor is one, but it's not free, aside from a trial period.
I'm using Bvckup2 for several years now. Not sure if it's possible to set it up the way you describe but you could run the trial and check it out.
So I recently replaced my CPU, Mobo and RAM and am now having issues with drivers, BSOD and Windows 10 needing reactivation.
Just seeking some help/advice on how best to proceed cause I'd really rather not have to reinstall windows and have to redownload all my programs and games.
Just seeking some help/advice on how best to proceed cause I'd really rather not have to reinstall windows and have to redownload all my programs and games.
Aren't windows keys locked to motherboards? You may have to get another copy.
Gah. There was a thing about "hardware changes" but it didn't prove fruitful.
No seriously, how come some games / apps are able to completely ignore both Alt+F4 and right-click on taskbar -> close? And you literally have to end-task them, other than the in-game quit options?
I usually alt-tab them and close the thumbnail window
Why they're like that, though? I couldn't tell you
I have an old Ultra x3 800w psu with only 1 8pin pcie port. Is there anyway I can use a 2070 super with this psu? I ordered a HX850 from Newegg but I found that it had been resealed as I noticed the seal on the cardboard inside box was already cut.
Here is a picture of the psu from a review.
Here is a picture of the psu from a review.
Does anyone have a good workflow for what settings they make sure to change back when installing new drivers?
I always use DDU to completely remove old before installing brand new drivers from scratch, which means every time there are all the settings that need to be flipped back e.g. putting power mode to prefer maximum performance globally etc and I've never seen a good list of all of those types of things to make sure you do after a fresh install.
Asking bc I installed new drivers recently for the first time in maybe six months and now I'm getting some weird frame rate hitches in Overwatch which never ever happened on the old drivers and I'm guessing it's a setting somewhere I didn't properly return to what it was prior to the new drivers....
Not sure what info people need to best answer this question but it's a 1080ti goin to an LG C7 and I generally play at 1080/120hz
I always use DDU to completely remove old before installing brand new drivers from scratch, which means every time there are all the settings that need to be flipped back e.g. putting power mode to prefer maximum performance globally etc and I've never seen a good list of all of those types of things to make sure you do after a fresh install.
Asking bc I installed new drivers recently for the first time in maybe six months and now I'm getting some weird frame rate hitches in Overwatch which never ever happened on the old drivers and I'm guessing it's a setting somewhere I didn't properly return to what it was prior to the new drivers....
Not sure what info people need to best answer this question but it's a 1080ti goin to an LG C7 and I generally play at 1080/120hz
Never in my life have I done the DDU thing unless there was an obvious problem or I was going Nvidia->AMD or similar. I just install the new drivers using Geforce Experience (which I know some people dislike).