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Oct 25, 2017
20,248
I've got a pro coming Monday.

A lot of local companies will run service contracts. This is a flat yearly rate that covers heat and ac maintenance: inspecting the blower, Freon, heat exchange, etc. They're sell on the, is if you need repairs or such you can get a discount. Mine is only $180 a year but the piece of mind is worth it.
 

captive

Member
Oct 25, 2017
17,061
Houston
Have you had the Freon checked?



Why do they need to adjust it?

We're basically going back to the drawing board for our home project because we got quoted at 30k to just deal with pouring the slab for a new room.
How bigs the room? That's crazy. We put in a 30x40 driveway pad for 8k. Granted thata different than foundation.

Our whole foundation with drilled piers was 60k or so IIRC. I can pull up the receipt.

Id get other quotes.
 
Last edited:

Nostremitus

Member
Nov 15, 2017
7,782
Alabama
Have you had the Freon checked?



Why do they need to adjust it?

We're basically going back to the drawing board for our home project because we got quoted at 30k to just deal with pouring the slab for a new room.
It's settled over time, our house was built in the 60s.

We noticed the the hall bathroom door wasn't fastening properly, the front door's deadbolt was really tight. We had a door guy come out and get measurements for a new front door, but the whole house has settled and things aren't lining up right anymore. So he suggested the if we were going to get that fixed, that we do it before the new door is installed since doing it after would cause the door frame to need to be adjusted and reinstalled afterward. There's also a noticeable raised area in the floor in the living room due to the settling as well.
 

Ether_Snake

Banned
Oct 29, 2017
11,306
I'm thinking of buying a console or buffet or some such and turn it into a vanity, anyone did that before? Prefer doing that than buying a premade one since I have more choice. I would get one wide enough for two top mounted bassins, with the faucets wall mounted, so the conversion should be fairly simple ; cut two holes for the sinks, possibly cut the backside of the drawers and make some inner walls around the plumbing if any, mount it to the wall so it doesn't just hang by the plumbing.
 

Ether_Snake

Banned
Oct 29, 2017
11,306
Last edited:

whatsinaname

Member
Oct 25, 2017
15,106
Was looking for a table/cabinet like this for the kitchen. What is it called/what search terms should I use?

aSaoiQ7.png
 

whatsinaname

Member
Oct 25, 2017
15,106
Kitchen/dining room server or buffet.

omg, thank you. 'Buffet' is showing me the exact kind of things I had in mind. Should have asked here months ago instead of trying out all the other English words I thought would apply.

Butcher Block Cabinet? That's where I'd start

Not really hung up on the material. I was searching for kitchen side table or side cabinet and it kept showing me those serving trolleys on wheels.
 

Nostremitus

Member
Nov 15, 2017
7,782
Alabama
omg, thank you. 'Buffet' is showing me the exact kind of things I had in mind. Should have asked here months ago instead of trying out all the other English words I thought would apply.



Not really hung up on the material. I was searching for kitchen side table or side cabinet and it kept showing me those serving trolleys on wheels.
Yep, it's a buffet hutch. In a lot of photos you'll see them with sideboards that sit on top making them tall like a China cabinet.
 

Ether_Snake

Banned
Oct 29, 2017
11,306
omg, thank you. 'Buffet' is showing me the exact kind of things I had in mind. Should have asked here months ago instead of trying out all the other English words I thought would apply.



Not really hung up on the material. I was searching for kitchen side table or side cabinet and it kept showing me those serving trolleys on wheels.

Sideboard, buffet.

I was looking for one to convert it into a bathroom vanity, but since I want top-mounted basins it has to be 29-30" high and at least 19" deep so choices are limited, and sometimes the space between both drawers is too long. I really don't want an ugly vanity, might have to have it custom made.....

Edit: neat, looking for console tables allowed me to find a few that could be converted into bathroom vanities!
 
Last edited:

J-Wood

Member
Oct 25, 2017
5,864
I have an AC question, maybe dumb, but I wanted to ask it anyways.

So I live in Colorado, and have a 3 story home (finished basement, 1st floor, 2nd floor). We have a single AC unit. As it stands up super hot days, there is basically a 10 degree difference between floors. The basement gets down to like 58 degrees, main floor is 69, 2nd floor is 72ish. I have an ecobee with the sensors upstairs and in the basement, so those numbers are for our "sleep" setting (to 72 degrees).

1st probably dumb question, but is it fine for my house for my basement to get that cold?

2nd question is, should i just close the majority of the vents in the basement? I have 9 vents on the ceiling down there, plus a return that's near the floor on the HVAC closet. The 1st and 2nd floor combined have around 17 vents (not counting the return on each floor). I'm torn on this because I keep reading online that you actually shouldn't close vents because it messed with the pressure and can damage your AC.

Really the basement gets the cold, because the AC runs pretty much non stop to get the upstairs cooled down. It seems my only options in terms of add ons are to get an attic fan installed, or add an AC zone, which sounds like is a dedicated AC unit for upstairs. Anyone do either of those options?
 

Chitown B

Member
Nov 15, 2017
9,645
I have an AC question, maybe dumb, but I wanted to ask it anyways.

So I live in Colorado, and have a 3 story home (finished basement, 1st floor, 2nd floor). We have a single AC unit. As it stands up super hot days, there is basically a 10 degree difference between floors. The basement gets down to like 58 degrees, main floor is 69, 2nd floor is 72ish. I have an ecobee with the sensors upstairs and in the basement, so those numbers are for our "sleep" setting (to 72 degrees).

1st probably dumb question, but is it fine for my house for my basement to get that cold?

2nd question is, should i just close the majority of the vents in the basement? I have 9 vents on the ceiling down there, plus a return that's near the floor on the HVAC closet. The 1st and 2nd floor combined have around 17 vents (not counting the return on each floor). I'm torn on this because I keep reading online that you actually shouldn't close vents because it messed with the pressure and can damage your AC.

Really the basement gets the cold, because the AC runs pretty much non stop to get the upstairs cooled down. It seems my only options in terms of add ons are to get an attic fan installed, or add an AC zone, which sounds like is a dedicated AC unit for upstairs. Anyone do either of those options?

my HVAC is in my basement and the people who installed it covered all the vents above that were open into the basement. I think this is the way to go. That's if you have an unfinished basement. 58 should be fine. I'd make sure the humidity isn't too high though - if it is, you could get mold. Anything over like 40% is bad. If that happens, get a dehumidifier with a hose out that you can push into a slop sink.
 
Oct 27, 2017
7,993
I have an AC question, maybe dumb, but I wanted to ask it anyways.

So I live in Colorado, and have a 3 story home (finished basement, 1st floor, 2nd floor). We have a single AC unit. As it stands up super hot days, there is basically a 10 degree difference between floors. The basement gets down to like 58 degrees, main floor is 69, 2nd floor is 72ish. I have an ecobee with the sensors upstairs and in the basement, so those numbers are for our "sleep" setting (to 72 degrees).

1st probably dumb question, but is it fine for my house for my basement to get that cold?

2nd question is, should i just close the majority of the vents in the basement? I have 9 vents on the ceiling down there, plus a return that's near the floor on the HVAC closet. The 1st and 2nd floor combined have around 17 vents (not counting the return on each floor). I'm torn on this because I keep reading online that you actually shouldn't close vents because it messed with the pressure and can damage your AC.

Really the basement gets the cold, because the AC runs pretty much non stop to get the upstairs cooled down. It seems my only options in terms of add ons are to get an attic fan installed, or add an AC zone, which sounds like is a dedicated AC unit for upstairs. Anyone do either of those options?
I have an ecobee as well and I have it set up so that the fan turns on for 15 minutes every hour to circulate the cooler air from the basement throughout the house. You could set it up so it runs all the time if you needed to. I did the same thing in my old house (ran the fan all the time) and it really helped to balance out the temperatures
 

52club

Member
Oct 27, 2017
1,499
I have an AC question, maybe dumb, but I wanted to ask it anyways.

So I live in Colorado, and have a 3 story home (finished basement, 1st floor, 2nd floor). We have a single AC unit. As it stands up super hot days, there is basically a 10 degree difference between floors. The basement gets down to like 58 degrees, main floor is 69, 2nd floor is 72ish. I have an ecobee with the sensors upstairs and in the basement, so those numbers are for our "sleep" setting (to 72 degrees).

1st probably dumb question, but is it fine for my house for my basement to get that cold?

2nd question is, should i just close the majority of the vents in the basement? I have 9 vents on the ceiling down there, plus a return that's near the floor on the HVAC closet. The 1st and 2nd floor combined have around 17 vents (not counting the return on each floor). I'm torn on this because I keep reading online that you actually shouldn't close vents because it messed with the pressure and can damage your AC.

Really the basement gets the cold, because the AC runs pretty much non stop to get the upstairs cooled down. It seems my only options in terms of add ons are to get an attic fan installed, or add an AC zone, which sounds like is a dedicated AC unit for upstairs. Anyone do either of those options?

I live in a 3 story townhome in Chicago near the lake (high humidity). I keep my fan on (instead of auto), which will raise humidity levels, but will circulate the air. Then I have a pair of dehumidifiers running which takes that moisture out of the error. I keep my humidity levels at 50%. This keeps the temps within 5 degrees between the floors.
 

Rocketz

Prophet of Truth
Member
Oct 25, 2017
7,964
Metro Detroit
Anyone have a smart thermostat and feel it's worth it? I'm looking at the Ecobee or the Nest and I want to make sure it's worth investing in.

I can get the Nest E and the Ecobee 3 for the same price through my gas provider, but I don't really want to spend the money if it's really for no real gain other than a cool gadget on my wall.
 

AndyD

Mambo Number PS5
Member
Oct 27, 2017
8,602
Nashville
So what the heck does a thermostatic shower do exactly? Does it somehow makes it that when you turn on the shower, it's already at the desired temperature so you don't have to jump out of the way to avoid the cold water?

So far I have this, not sure if I got everything. Amazon's prices are difficult to beat!
...

I had originally gone with all matte black, but damn it's like almost 3x the price of chrome. Went for brushed nickel. But black is so sleek...

Not sure what CC or IPS is about, even after reading about it.

Man a shower can get expensive quick...

Thermostatic valve prevents sharp jumps in temperature. Essentially it has a valve that prevents the scalding hot spike when someone flushes a toilet nearby.
Some rough in kits also have scald prevention valves (5 bucks more) that let you set a max temperature, say in a kids' bath, to prevent them from accidentally turning it too hot. It's a tiny screw you can adjust easily. That way you can turn on the water heater to higher temperatures for say the master bath, while not worrying the kids will scald themselves.

I can't tell if you are buying too many things there, but here's what I bought for a recent shower redo and it seems much more reasonable:

Notice it has integrated diverter for two shower locations (fixed, handheld/rain, or both at the same time) a separate lever for temperature, and then a third for pressure. For example my wife can turn the water pressure down or off when shaving her legs, without messing with temperature at all. You can have a very gentle cool rain shower or a high pressure hot one, as the temperature and pressure are independently controlled. We experienced it in a high end hotel in Montreal and recreated it in our new shower, it's too nice not to.

If you want simpler:

This is same two levers of pressure/temperature but no diverter for multiple locations.

We did try out about two dozen shower heads and settled on a Home Depot fairly basic one as it was a good balance of pressure and surface. I can't find a link now but I have in my notes that the best experience was about 6-8 inches diameter with at least 100 nozzles. Some shower heads had about 60 nozzles and it was too sharp of a feeling and could not turn it down enough, while others at 200 were too "rainy" and could never get enough pressure.
 

AndyD

Mambo Number PS5
Member
Oct 27, 2017
8,602
Nashville
I have an ecobee as well and I have it set up so that the fan turns on for 15 minutes every hour to circulate the cooler air from the basement throughout the house. You could set it up so it runs all the time if you needed to. I did the same thing in my old house (ran the fan all the time) and it really helped to balance out the temperatures
Can you get it to turn on the fan but not the AC? As in are they controllable independently? I like the idea of running the fan without cooling it even more.
 

whatsinaname

Member
Oct 25, 2017
15,106
I went ecobee because Nest is owned by Google. Can never trust them to not pull any shenanigans. Never enabled alexa on my ecobee either.
 

whatsinaname

Member
Oct 25, 2017
15,106
Ecobee is owned by Amazon. I believe they're even bigger than Google. Not sure what shenanigans you're talking about.

Google just seems a bit directionless recently. I got tired of changes for changes sake on my phones and other devices. Wanted to go with ecobee because this is their main business and they are still independently run. Hopefully they continue to look at it as an appliance and not a tech device.
 

Chitown B

Member
Nov 15, 2017
9,645
Honestly I've noticed zero changes since Google bought Nest. Not a one. And that's a good thing for me. You wouldn't know google bought them except for the email they sent out informing people. I've got 4 smoke/carbon alarms and a thermostat with three extra temp sensors.
 

Ether_Snake

Banned
Oct 29, 2017
11,306
Thermostatic valve prevents sharp jumps in temperature. Essentially it has a valve that prevents the scalding hot spike when someone flushes a toilet nearby.
Some rough in kits also have scald prevention valves (5 bucks more) that let you set a max temperature, say in a kids' bath, to prevent them from accidentally turning it too hot. It's a tiny screw you can adjust easily. That way you can turn on the water heater to higher temperatures for say the master bath, while not worrying the kids will scald themselves.

I can't tell if you are buying too many things there, but here's what I bought for a recent shower redo and it seems much more reasonable:

Notice it has integrated diverter for two shower locations (fixed, handheld/rain, or both at the same time) a separate lever for temperature, and then a third for pressure. For example my wife can turn the water pressure down or off when shaving her legs, without messing with temperature at all. You can have a very gentle cool rain shower or a high pressure hot one, as the temperature and pressure are independently controlled. We experienced it in a high end hotel in Montreal and recreated it in our new shower, it's too nice not to.

If you want simpler:

This is same two levers of pressure/temperature but no diverter for multiple locations.

We did try out about two dozen shower heads and settled on a Home Depot fairly basic one as it was a good balance of pressure and surface. I can't find a link now but I have in my notes that the best experience was about 6-8 inches diameter with at least 100 nozzles. Some shower heads had about 60 nozzles and it was too sharp of a feeling and could not turn it down enough, while others at 200 were too "rainy" and could never get enough pressure.

Thanks for all the info! I made changes since my post, I'll post it later. I thought thermostatic allowed you to get the exact temperature right when you turn on the shower so you don't have to jump out of the way or let the tub faucet run (if you have one) until the temperature is right. I managed to bring my cost down a bit too. I got a faucet that can control volume and temperature, and a diverter but it only switches from hand-held to rain, not both at the same time, otherwise I'd have to get a three way one but right now I have no tub filler, but could add one, TBD. The rain shower will be ceiling mounted to avoid having an arm to the wall that is too short but hopefully the pressure will be good.

I finally got a plan update today. Goddamn it's a good thing I have been pushing them to do things my way, what an improvement over their first drawing. Still some changes to do.

Btw what do you guys think about this: the water tank is on the other side of the left wall of the bathroom, and they keep putting all the shower/toilet/vanity on the bathroom's right side. It means more pipes over a longer distance which seems to make no sense to me. I asked them why before and they couldn't give me a clear answer and I see they still haven't flipped the room. Logically I would expect them to put as little distance as possible between the water tank and the bathroom and kitchen water-using-stuff.

Now I have to convince them to not put the sink in the kitchen island, I hate the idea.
 

Ether_Snake

Banned
Oct 29, 2017
11,306
Excellent article on problems caused by excessively high cfm range hood fans: https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/makeup-air-for-range-hoods

Short story: too much air goes out, too little comes in, and a lot will come in from places you wouldn't want. Appliance companies ignore the issue.

Edit: Also anyone is familiar with induction ranges? I'd like to buy one but choice is very limited here, reviews so-so as they seem to break down more often.
 
Last edited:
Oct 25, 2017
20,248
I have an AC question, maybe dumb, but I wanted to ask it anyways.

So I live in Colorado, and have a 3 story home (finished basement, 1st floor, 2nd floor). We have a single AC unit. As it stands up super hot days, there is basically a 10 degree difference between floors. The basement gets down to like 58 degrees, main floor is 69, 2nd floor is 72ish. I have an ecobee with the sensors upstairs and in the basement, so those numbers are for our "sleep" setting (to 72 degrees).

1st probably dumb question, but is it fine for my house for my basement to get that cold?

2nd question is, should i just close the majority of the vents in the basement? I have 9 vents on the ceiling down there, plus a return that's near the floor on the HVAC closet. The 1st and 2nd floor combined have around 17 vents (not counting the return on each floor). I'm torn on this because I keep reading online that you actually shouldn't close vents because it messed with the pressure and can damage your AC.

Really the basement gets the cold, because the AC runs pretty much non stop to get the upstairs cooled down. It seems my only options in terms of add ons are to get an attic fan installed, or add an AC zone, which sounds like is a dedicated AC unit for upstairs. Anyone do either of those options?

Don't close vents, it can be counter productive for the system. HVAC works on pressure and when you just close vents you mess up that pressure. That said 9 vents is a lot is your house that big or did someone go vent happy?

There's is always going to be a temperature difference between your upstairs and lower floors, heat rises. It's just the natural impact of it all.

A second zone would definitely help and yes it will be a dedicated unit for your second floor. You could always go the mini split route too but there is more upfront cost for them. The upside is you're not tearing down walls to get to vents and newer models have dehumidifiers in them which could also do wonders since the hotter air is upstairs.

If you have an attic that is not well insulated then I'd start there. All the money won't help loss of air through the attic. Running your ceiling fans will help too because it keeps the air circulating versus remaining stagnant. Attic fans and ridge vents can help but might be worth holding off until you do the roof unless it's THAT bad.

Honestly 72 is pretty comfortable to me, going colder than that seems pretty excessive but that's me. Our 1940s cape split level with 0 shade can hit 77-80 on the really hot days.
 
Oct 25, 2017
20,248
Ecobee is owned by Amazon. I believe they're even bigger than Google. Not sure what shenanigans you're talking about.

Eco bee is totally independent they just support Alexa which is fully opt in

Ecobee sensors are also much smarter than the Nest because they allow you to better define zones around profiles and help to identify an average temperature. Honestly the entire platform is just so much better and smarter. I always hated how Nest prevents looking back at your data and with Ecobee I can do just that. I can compare all my run times and see how often the system is running between different times of the year
 

mhayes86

Member
Oct 27, 2017
5,268
Maryland
Anyone ever have issues with large appliance deliveries? I had to buy a new washer back in May, and the last two months have been nothing short of frustrating.

To make a long story short, my washing machine is on the third floor, and I had it delivered three times. The first two times it was delivered it was damaged, so I refused delivery. Last Wednesday was the third delivery, and this time it was undamaged, had the old one removed, and the new one installed.

After it was installed, the guy who did it mentioned that the previous two attempts may have been deliberately damaged by the installers after seeing that it would need to be hauled up three floors in order to get out of it. Considering this is my first ever large appliance replacement, I wasn't sure if this was a known issue with difficult appliance installs.

I'm just glad it's finally over, and I was given a 15% refund as compensation. But this worries me as my water heater, dryer, and air handler are all on the third floor as well. Having appliances on a lower level is definitely something I want whenever I'm able to sell and move.
 

Cation

The Fallen
Oct 28, 2017
3,603
- Seems like the attached garage is a no-no as it will basically be in the middle of the left side of the backyard due to HOA requirements
- A garage lift won't work as the effective clearance is 9' and they say 11' is the recommended bare minimum.

Seems like the last option is to extend the garage forward in a way that "does not disrupt the neighborhood style"
 

Nostremitus

Member
Nov 15, 2017
7,782
Alabama
- Seems like the attached garage is a no-no as it will basically be in the middle of the left side of the backyard due to HOA requirements
- A garage lift won't work as the effective clearance is 9' and they say 11' is the recommended bare minimum.

Seems like the last option is to extend the garage forward in a way that "does not disrupt the neighborhood style"
I'm so thankful I don't have to deal with HOA.
 

Ether_Snake

Banned
Oct 29, 2017
11,306
Thermostatic valve prevents sharp jumps in temperature. Essentially it has a valve that prevents the scalding hot spike when someone flushes a toilet nearby.
Some rough in kits also have scald prevention valves (5 bucks more) that let you set a max temperature, say in a kids' bath, to prevent them from accidentally turning it too hot. It's a tiny screw you can adjust easily. That way you can turn on the water heater to higher temperatures for say the master bath, while not worrying the kids will scald themselves.

I can't tell if you are buying too many things there, but here's what I bought for a recent shower redo and it seems much more reasonable:

Notice it has integrated diverter for two shower locations (fixed, handheld/rain, or both at the same time) a separate lever for temperature, and then a third for pressure. For example my wife can turn the water pressure down or off when shaving her legs, without messing with temperature at all. You can have a very gentle cool rain shower or a high pressure hot one, as the temperature and pressure are independently controlled. We experienced it in a high end hotel in Montreal and recreated it in our new shower, it's too nice not to.

If you want simpler:

This is same two levers of pressure/temperature but no diverter for multiple locations.

We did try out about two dozen shower heads and settled on a Home Depot fairly basic one as it was a good balance of pressure and surface. I can't find a link now but I have in my notes that the best experience was about 6-8 inches diameter with at least 100 nozzles. Some shower heads had about 60 nozzles and it was too sharp of a feeling and could not turn it down enough, while others at 200 were too "rainy" and could never get enough pressure.

Ok right now I got this:

Delta - Single-Setting Metal Raincan Shower Head
Kingston Brass - 17" shower arm

Moen - Faucet Moentrol Arris - controls temp and volume
Moen - 3570 M-PACT Moentrol Shower Valve with Stops, 1/2-Inch CC

Moen - Eco-Performance Massage Slide Bar Shower Head
Moen - Exact Temp Drop Ell for Hand Held Shower Hose

Moen - Align Transfer Valve Trim only transfers from handheld to rain, not both at once. Could look into supporting that too.
Moen - 3375 Transfer 1/2 Inch CC Connection

edit: I don't understand if this one only controls the temp or also the volume? https://www.moen.ca/products/Align/Align_Matte_black_PosiTempR_tubshower_valve_only/T2191BL Would be cheaper than the Arris.

edit2: Oh this delta one controls temp and volume for less than my Moen https://www.wayfair.ca/fr/renovatio...-a-double-commande-dlt6475.html?piid=33065345

The easiest way to drop the cost is to go with chrome :| There is a style mismatch because the Moentrol one is Arris, the transfer Align, but I found no Moentrol for Align in black. If I switch the transfer to Arris it's another 200$. I found a Moen faucet that had temp in the top part, transfer at the bottom, but then the valve itself was over 500$ so it ended up more expensive. I'd be fine switching to another brand if they have things in black and are well reviewed.

I also have to ask my contractor about a wall-mounted toilet, right now I went for a usual floor mounted one but it would look really nice, and access to the back could be done through the bedroom's closet on the other side.
 
Last edited:

AndyD

Mambo Number PS5
Member
Oct 27, 2017
8,602
Nashville
Ok right now I got this:

Delta - Single-Setting Metal Raincan Shower Head
Kingston Brass - 17" shower arm

Moen - Faucet Moentrol Arris - controls temp and volume
Moen - 3570 M-PACT Moentrol Shower Valve with Stops, 1/2-Inch CC

Moen - Eco-Performance Massage Slide Bar Shower Head
Moen - Exact Temp Drop Ell for Hand Held Shower Hose

Moen - Align Transfer Valve Trim only transfers from handheld to rain, not both at once. Could look into supporting that too.
Moen - 3375 Transfer 1/2 Inch CC Connection

edit: I don't understand if this one only controls the temp or also the volume? https://www.moen.ca/products/Align/Align_Matte_black_PosiTempR_tubshower_valve_only/T2191BL Would be cheaper than the Arris.

edit2: Oh this delta one controls temp and volume for less than my Moen https://www.wayfair.ca/fr/renovatio...-a-double-commande-dlt6475.html?piid=33065345

The easiest way to drop the cost is to go with chrome :| There is a style mismatch because the Moentrol one is Arris, the transfer Align, but I found no Moentrol for Align in black. If I switch the transfer to Arris it's another 200$. I found a Moen faucet that had temp in the top part, transfer at the bottom, but then the valve itself was over 500$ so it ended up more expensive. I'd be fine switching to another brand if they have things in black and are well reviewed.

I also have to ask my contractor about a wall-mounted toilet, right now I went for a usual floor mounted one but it would look really nice, and access to the back could be done through the bedroom's closet on the other side.
Ooh, I like those a lot. The black is very nice. What will the walls look like?

If you want to perfectly coordinate with the less expensive Delta, here's the diverter 3-way:

There's also a 6 way, a matching shower head and various other pieces. https://www.google.com/search?ei=F9A0XbCVBYPr_Qaxob2QAw&q=trinsic+matte+black&oq=Trinsic®+matte+&gs_l=psy-ab.3.0.0i22i30l7.645507.647129..648063...0.0..1.217.659.6j0j1......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i30.b8p2KEeS94o
And the advantage of Delta is that it can use generic rough-ins (valves, wayfair matches them up for you already) so you can drop those costs immensely.

As to putting them on one wall vs the other, I would not worry about a couple of meters of pipe, it won't make a difference in temperature. But I would worry if the pipe will have to go through an exposed uninsulated attic or basement. I would honestly worry about the functionality and aesthetics of the room when arranging its orientation, not the behind the walls infrastructure.
 

Ether_Snake

Banned
Oct 29, 2017
11,306
Ooh, I like those a lot. The black is very nice. What will the walls look like?

If you want to perfectly coordinate with the less expensive Delta, here's the diverter 3-way:

There's also a 6 way, a matching shower head and various other pieces. https://www.google.com/search?ei=F9A0XbCVBYPr_Qaxob2QAw&q=trinsic+matte+black&oq=Trinsic®+matte+&gs_l=psy-ab.3.0.0i22i30l7.645507.647129..648063...0.0..1.217.659.6j0j1......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i30.b8p2KEeS94o
And the advantage of Delta is that it can use generic rough-ins (valves, wayfair matches them up for you already) so you can drop those costs immensely.

As to putting them on one wall vs the other, I would not worry about a couple of meters of pipe, it won't make a difference in temperature. But I would worry if the pipe will have to go through an exposed uninsulated attic or basement. I would honestly worry about the functionality and aesthetics of the room when arranging its orientation, not the behind the walls infrastructure.

I might go with the deltas, cheaper and still well reviewed. Also I have these sink faucets so it matches:

Kohler and Moen make some really nice designs but prices are all over the place. Moen's Gibson line seemed to be the cheapest for the look I wanted but some pieces seem to just not exist or not in black.

The shower's walls will be wood-like ceramic, or at lest that's the current plan. The rest of the room will use lime-based paint, floors will have gray stone-like ceramic. I'm going for a bit of a wabi-sabi feel, but mixed with modern-looking stuff. I'll post my ref later.

If I can get a positive from the contractor on wall-mounted toilet things should look pretty sweet.

My go to ref is Axel Vervoodt's work

edit: AndyD do you know what the different is between those two pieces? I don't get what they mean by body, is it the plastic box around the rough-in?

edit: Now if I can find a good alternative to the hand-held shower to bring costs down
 
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Nostremitus

Member
Nov 15, 2017
7,782
Alabama

Ether_Snake

Banned
Oct 29, 2017
11,306
If it's all you need, it's all you need. Wouldn't work for me though... I like to cook and eat my leftovers.

Yeah around here I tend to buy, store, eat. The fridge is never full because groceries are a walking distance away. The number of cucumbers that have gone to waste over the years........

The architect will be happy to get extra counter space cause I'm telling them to move the sink out of the island.
 

Nostremitus

Member
Nov 15, 2017
7,782
Alabama
Yeah around here I tend to buy, store, eat. The fridge is never full because groceries are a walking distance away. The number of cucumbers that have gone to waste over the years........

The architect will be happy to get extra counter space cause I'm telling them to move the sink out of the island.
Ah, I make Costco trips, lol. And, I have a family, so need the extra room.
 

Jedi2016

Member
Oct 27, 2017
15,903
How big is 10 cubic feet? I don't even know how big mine is.. lol. It's what I would call a "regular size" fridge.
 

Ether_Snake

Banned
Oct 29, 2017
11,306
How big is 10 cubic feet? I don't even know how big mine is.. lol. It's what I would call a "regular size" fridge.

23.5W x 68.5H x 25.4D

The one I am using right now is: 23W x 59H x 28D

So what I lose in depth I make up for in height. Should be fine. But it's definitely on the small end. I think the average American or Canadian would find it unthinkable, but Europeans or people who live in big cities where space is a premium but where car usage is pretty low and people tend to walk to the groceries would find it fine.
 

Ether_Snake

Banned
Oct 29, 2017
11,306
don't do it. if you sell, the buyers won't like it.

Yeah I thought about that, especially since the counter would be custom built... Gotta find something under 20cu, I feel it's overkill.

Edit: Might go with this 15cu one
28W 71H 27.5D

I see some in the 11cu too... tempting. Wouldn't be the first time I threw away resale potential for my own benefit, like having no bath.

Edit: What about dishwashers? Most are 24"/61cm, but there are some 18" models too. Another thing I feed I could go with, but again a bit worried about resale... Once again, if I was in Europe it wouldn't be a problem, but where I live is pretty much "like Europe".......
 
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dubc

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,427
Seattle
Any recommendations for places to buy window screens?

Every window is always a unique size it seems. I've bought and built a couple of kits from Home Depot, but they turn out flimsy, bow inwards in the middle, and waste material (border and/or screen). They do the job, but wondering if anyone has a better solution.
 

captive

Member
Oct 25, 2017
17,061
Houston
How bigs the room? That's crazy. We put in a 30x40 driveway pad for 8k. Granted thata different than foundation.

Our whole foundation with drilled piers was 60k or so IIRC. I can pull up the receipt.

Id get other quotes.
someone tell tarpit to get other quotes, i think he's blocked me. But i ended up looking at our spreadsheet of costs and our foundation with drilled piers, 3k sqft with 4 car garage and patio/concrete around the house was 59k and change. 30k for a single room is too much unless that room is 60x60 or something.
 

AndyD

Mambo Number PS5
Member
Oct 27, 2017
8,602
Nashville
edit: AndyD do you know what the different is between those two pieces? I don't get what they mean by body, is it the plastic box around the rough-in?
The WS has a small shut off valve. You can see it in the picture, a tiny screw on the left side facing forward. It can be used if you need to work on the local shower fixture without having to turn off the water to the house. In some places like an apartment, that might come in handy as you can work in each one without having to affect the whole building. In a house where you can turn off the water, it's no biggie. Otherwise, no difference in those two pieces.
 

AndyD

Mambo Number PS5
Member
Oct 27, 2017
8,602
Nashville
Guys am I crazy to buy this?
10.cu ft fridge. I'm a single guy, and some bought this fridge even if they have a family and say they like it. The space saving is pretty good for my kitchen.
I've seen small counter depth fridges successfully work for a whole family paired with a drinks fridge/ice maker at the bar area and/or a garage fridge/chest freezer for the more long term storage. But be prepared for future buyers of a house to generally balk unless they are in a similar demographic as you.
 

Ether_Snake

Banned
Oct 29, 2017
11,306
I've seen small counter depth fridges successfully work for a whole family paired with a drinks fridge/ice maker at the bar area and/or a garage fridge/chest freezer for the more long term storage. But be prepared for future buyers of a house to generally balk unless they are in a similar demographic as you.

I'm going for the middle ground right now, 15cu or so. I know I could go for 10-11cu, plus the models I've found are super sleek :| But at 15cu I'm still getting a few inches over the 20cu I had on the spec sheet.

Now, 18" dishwasher or 24"... Same story I guess. Too bad there's not really any in-between.

The WS has a small shut off valve. You can see it in the picture, a tiny screw on the left side facing forward. It can be used if you need to work on the local shower fixture without having to turn off the water to the house. In some places like an apartment, that might come in handy as you can work in each one without having to affect the whole building. In a house where you can turn off the water, it's no biggie. Otherwise, no difference in those two pieces.

Ah I see, good to know thanks. Mine is a two-story condo, I got the second floor.

BTW anyone has an idea of how much one should pay for an engineer's evaluation of a one-story extension (back part of the house, extended around 200qs ft)? I got 2700 CAD which is 2000 USD. It's basically to check that the structure will be sound, and the construction involved adding foundations of course.

Sounds expensive.
 

Chitown B

Member
Nov 15, 2017
9,645
has anyone here re-piped their house themselves? I keep getting a craving to do it, likely with Pex. We have about 70/30 galvanized/copper right now and the water pressure is really bad. Most pipes are accessible in the basement along the ceiling, except the bathroom upstairs that runs up between the walls.