They do with ALLM + VRR + FMM + DTM (or HGIG via ColorControl) instead of the old Game Mode.
Input lag is very comparable (especially with forced HGIG) and have no color banding issues this way even on G3.
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Input lag is very comparable (especially with forced HGIG) and have no color banding issues this way even on G3.
I had a g1 and it theoretically worked the same way, but with allm the smooth gradation filter didn't work so banding never got improved over game mode. Does the setting actually work this way on the g3?
No, but FMM processing is different from 2023 models (incl. the new dynamic color boosting algorithm) with also lower input lag with ALLM at the same time.
Color Banding is not that noticeable this way, even less if you use PC Mode (for gaming only inputs).
Interesting, would like to test it but unfortunately the panel lottery literally kills my desire to get any tv. Still might try with the g4 and maybe Bravia 9, but I doubt I will be able to get an acceptable panel. My s95b is perfect but it's a Samsung with Samsung issues
There is no perfect TV, but LG G3/G4 are the closest right now overall in my opinion. 😉
Way better than a G1, sure. The processing on my G3 is easily as good as the A90J I replaced it with, even in game mode. But, as mentioned, you don't need to even use it to get similar gaming performance to the Samsung and Sony latest models.
I'm talking specifically about posterization in game mode and from everything I read it behaves exactly as g1 did, though the processing elsewhere is probably better
It's a little better than the G3. Not as good as the A95L, but a little better. Saw it one of ogcod's videos. I think Classy mentioned it too, a while back.
Do you know if that applies to the 42 inch C3? I know the 42 and 48 inch ones have different panels than the larger ones.
Yah, the processing is better and the latency is worse. It depends on what you want from game mode. You can have Samsung/Sony reaction time outside of game mode as the OP outlines.
Any one have ideas on assassin's creed Valhalla hdr setting for lg c1 things seem to be washed out
HDR in Valhalla isn't very good. Set max luminance to 4000 nits if you're using DTM or 800 nits for HGIG. You may like how it looks in SDR more.
It will for sure be better, especially for gaming, but better jump to a C4 or G3/G4 in my opinion.
Does anyone else having trouble with surround sound pass-through on Series X and LG C2? I've been using it since I bough my soundbar and switching between 5.1 and 7.1 when certain games doesn't support 7.1.
But suddenly the 5.1 option makes no sound at all, but stereo, 7.1, Dolby Digital or Atmos works just fine. I don't know if it's the TV, the soundbar or the console.
The PS5 works completely normal in every surround option.
EDIT: nevermind, a few console reboots fixed it!
But suddenly the 5.1 option makes no sound at all, but stereo, 7.1, Dolby Digital or Atmos works just fine. I don't know if it's the TV, the soundbar or the console.
The PS5 works completely normal in every surround option.
EDIT: nevermind, a few console reboots fixed it!
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Found out about the shit Ethernet ports on these things trying to watch Shogun tonight bounce between 4K and 320p every few seconds on Hulu. Can you use a usb Ethernet adapter to get better speeds and if so, which one? I'll be using wifi until then.
What's wrong with just using Wi-Fi?
It should handle streaming up to 100Mbit/s (which no online service will actually leverage) without issues.
Nothing but I prefer using a cable since the modem is right under the tv and it feels silly to me to use wifi.
If Ethernet gives you issue (as I also mentioned in the past) but Wi-Fi not, I would just use what it's working ;)
I have a new C3 (bought it two weeks ago) and it does dim under certain circumstances. I saw it happens after 5 hours of gameplay in one session, it got pretty aggressive with dimming the screen. It was 1:30 in the morning, so I just decided to go to bed. But the game was becoming pretty much unplayable with how dim it got. Haven't had it happen since as my game play sessions are usually under 5 hours.
Seems more like an overheating prevention then.
Are you sure for example you did remove the plastic film from the panel back?
I have an LGCX and in the past few weeks the picture freezes, turns red (or does a strange color shift thing while also frozen) then turns on and off a few times before the only way to turn it back on is by unplugging it and plugging it back in.
The firmware is up to date and we're copying our settings so we can factory reset but….. has anyone experienced this?
The firmware is up to date and we're copying our settings so we can factory reset but….. has anyone experienced this?
I looked back there so many times and could not see a film or find a way to pull back any film. Because I have seen this mentioned a bunch online (in other contexts). I'll look again tonight.
edit: did a search on reddit and some other owners of the c3 confirmed no film on the back - with pictures.
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I've had my C3 for almost 6 months now and only in the last couple weeks have I been having this issue. I've had to turn it off then back on to get brightness to go back to normal. And yea there is no film on the back.
Some folks reported online that a firmware update months ago started causing this level of auto dimming. I don't have this level of auto dimming on my set, mine only dims when there's a ton of static UI elements on screen then brightens up when some are removed, my example being Baldurs Gate 3.
I'm on an older firmware from September or Octoberish because of folks talking about the issues newer firmwares have had on this TV. You'll get some say it's fine then some say it's like yours and oneils sets and it's a dimming issue or they have an eARC issue. It's why I've not updated firmware as everything seems fine with my set and updating just to update is the worst advice you can give.
That's a Hulu problem, not a TV problem. Their app is terrible and this happens on an NVIDIA Shield Pro 2019 with a gigabit ethernet port. Hulu bitrates don't come close to 100 Mbps even on their 4K plan.
Yea I've seen dimming on this display many times, but not like this. It just dims and stays there regardless of what's on screen. Turning it off and back on immediately fixes it and the issue didn't appear again for hours afterward.
Though it has only happened twice.
Have you tried just turning the screen off to see if that fixes it instead turning off the whole TV? Be much faster to fix the issue.
P40L0 question regarding picture mode for Series X on LG G4. In your settings you mention Filmmaker Mode. But since Game Optimizer mode on the G4 has the same brightness as Filmmaker Mkde, is the setting on your sheet still correct? Or is that for the G3? And for my G4 I can use Game Optimizer Mode?
Even if dynamic color boosting is now enabled also in G4's Game Optimizer preset, ALLM + FMM will still have a brighter average luminance with less aggressive dimming and more accurate colors OOTB so it's still preferrable.
TV Displays and Tech Thread |OT2| There Is No Perfect TV â„¢ (Read The OP) Tech - OT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Welcome to the second TV thread. Come in to talk about television displays, HDR/Dolby Vision, tips/tricks/settings and more. If you need help picking out a TV, whatever your needs, please ask! Thread will be updated regularly as new...
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The settings in the OT, they are only for gaming, right?
I assume I can switch the mode and can say gaming on this hdmi slot should be this? Since there are differences on the consoles.
I assume I can switch the mode and can say gaming on this hdmi slot should be this? Since there are differences on the consoles.
C3
I've been noticing some instances of the almost black screen with some lighter text and graphic on it that move a bit (I can reproduce this most consistently with Honkai Star Rail's loading screen) would cause the darker part to kinda flicker a bit, well, I don't know if flicker is the right word but it's something along the line. The darker parts are supposed to be static but the brightness kinda shift around a bit when other parts of the screen move.
Another instance I noticed this is when I type white letters on darker/almost black background and this made me pretty sure that it's caused by moving/adding these elements on to the darker screen because it'd flicker only when I type and completely static when I stop. I couldn't exactly reproduce this however. It was just on that specific page that I noticed this while other pages with similar characteristic are completely fine (kinda forgot which one was it when I noticed that).
Something like Era's dark mode is completely fine even though it looks pretty similar to the page I had issue with.
So far, this only happens on my PC (HDR+VRR on). I haven't tried adjusting any setting to see if turning something on/off would fix this though. Maybe I'll try going through it if there's no easier solution.
edit: yeah, this is definitely because of g-sync. I haven't noticed it before for general play of Genshin but a new patch just dropped and it was super noticeable in cutscenes. Tried ticking the gsync for fullscreen box in the nvidia control panel and that did nothing. Saw some people mentioned that this happens when the framerate exceeds what the screen can do but both Genshin and Star Rail are capped at 60fps so that shouldn't be the case. I'll just disable it for the time being but I'd preferred if I can keep it on so I'm still open to suggestion.
I've been noticing some instances of the almost black screen with some lighter text and graphic on it that move a bit (I can reproduce this most consistently with Honkai Star Rail's loading screen) would cause the darker part to kinda flicker a bit, well, I don't know if flicker is the right word but it's something along the line. The darker parts are supposed to be static but the brightness kinda shift around a bit when other parts of the screen move.
Another instance I noticed this is when I type white letters on darker/almost black background and this made me pretty sure that it's caused by moving/adding these elements on to the darker screen because it'd flicker only when I type and completely static when I stop. I couldn't exactly reproduce this however. It was just on that specific page that I noticed this while other pages with similar characteristic are completely fine (kinda forgot which one was it when I noticed that).
Something like Era's dark mode is completely fine even though it looks pretty similar to the page I had issue with.
So far, this only happens on my PC (HDR+VRR on). I haven't tried adjusting any setting to see if turning something on/off would fix this though. Maybe I'll try going through it if there's no easier solution.
edit: yeah, this is definitely because of g-sync. I haven't noticed it before for general play of Genshin but a new patch just dropped and it was super noticeable in cutscenes. Tried ticking the gsync for fullscreen box in the nvidia control panel and that did nothing. Saw some people mentioned that this happens when the framerate exceeds what the screen can do but both Genshin and Star Rail are capped at 60fps so that shouldn't be the case. I'll just disable it for the time being but I'd preferred if I can keep it on so I'm still open to suggestion.
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The settings are optimized for gaming but they work for media playback as well, especially with the latest series where Filmmaker and Cinema modes are recommended. For 2022 models and prior, you can use the webOS settings for their respective picture modes on the console inputs and the Game Optimizer and Filmmaker/Cinema picture modes will maintain their own settings and not overwrite each other.
Okay, I got the C3. The amount of settings kinda look like a daunting cast though ngl.
Once you get into the settings menu it won't be as complicated as it seems. The columns of the chart are the different devices and picture modes (SDR, HDR, Dolby Vision) and the rows are the actual settings. You don't have to do them all at once either. When you watch a video or play a game in SDR, do the SDR settings, same for HDR, etc. And once you've done the settings for one console (PS5, for example) you can use the Apply to All option on the TV to save those settings for all of your HDMI inputs so you don't have to do it again for each device.
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Yeah, it's not as bad to set up as it looks. You can do them all in 15 min or less if you understand how to move around the os menu by now.
That is still me having to do settings 8 times though? Maybe I am misunderstanding.
Xbox and PS5 settings are identical. When you setup those picture modes and use Apply to All, it will copy the picture settings to the other HDMI inputs. So you don't have to do 4 different settings for SDR/HDR + Xbox/PS5. webOS settings are separate from HDMI inputs, so those will have to be done separate from the consoles if you plan to use the built-in TV apps.
Only complication is if you have one input going to a receiver and all the components/consoles connected to that right?
Do you guys think scanline filters are okay on OLED? The retrotink 4k has some fantastic looking ones I'd like to use.
I think I'm in that phase as a first time OLED tv owner where I worry about everything like filters and watching too much 4:3 content. lol
I think I'm in that phase as a first time OLED tv owner where I worry about everything like filters and watching too much 4:3 content. lol
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Yes I really wouldn't worry about anything. I'm at 16000+ hours using my CX as a PC monitor and have 0 burn in.
Thanks for the reassurance. Seems like LG really got these tvs down.
Curious for those of you using OLEDs for pc gaming and just daily usage, how do you handle wallpapers? Do you run some kind of wallpaper engine or maybe allow windows to change wallpapers frequently?
I have mine set to change every day. Unfortunately in Windows there's a little stutter that happens during the change (you'll feel it during gameplay) so I switched it from more regular intervals once I discovered that. I just operate in SDR outside of games/media, hide the taskbar and have my screensaver set to 3 minutes.