This game has HDR on pc???HDR game mode on a B7 is so dim! How could anyone play this shit!?...........peeeerlease :-0
-
Ever wanted an RSS feed of all your favorite gaming news sites? Go check out our new Gaming Headlines feed! Read more about it here.
-
We have made minor adjustments to how the search bar works on ResetEra. You can read about the changes here.
Television Displays and Technology Thread: The ERA of OLED is Now
- Thread starter Jeremiah
- Start date
- Status
HDR game mode on a B7 is so dim! How could anyone play this shit!?...........peeeerlease :-0
WTF
I mean I guess but I personally don't run SDR any lower than 70 for my games, usually like 80. I've had my OLED since last October and no issues.
And you said 60? That's even lower than I run mine. So I prob wouldn't worry too much.
HDR game mode on a B7 is so dim! How could anyone play this shit!?...........peeeerlease :-0
What's it look like in other modes. Or are all three different modes. Hah
I think a C7 at $2,500 is a good stop gap price. I don't really want to wait another two and a half years to buy a TV...
Don't think so.
Ha, all HDR game, cinema and Technicolor are the same, and the other modes would destroy the picture.
Doesn't look like it, hope they add it to other platforms, as it's definitely one of the best I've seen.
Can you elaborate on this break-in regimen? Is there actual proven positive results or just placebo?
I think it will depend on the 65" TCL price. If it's like $1,200 I don't know if it's really tough to swallow another thousand bucks for a massively better TV. I hope. :)
I don't care about IR because like you said, it goes away. Yeah, that or people who play Overwatch or Destiny for hundreds of hours, which I don't.
I play and watch in a completely dark room, so 60 is enough for me, haha
Just received my C7, this TV is so f*cking good!! I'm just blown away by the picture.
I have a couple of questions, do the Netflix app on the PS4 is Dolby Vision enabled? Or do I have to watch on the TV app?
I can't seem to find the Dolby Access app, where there's all these cool demo and stuff, it's not in my app list and don't appear when I search for it... Maybe it doesn't exist in my region?
I have a couple of questions, do the Netflix app on the PS4 is Dolby Vision enabled? Or do I have to watch on the TV app?
I can't seem to find the Dolby Access app, where there's all these cool demo and stuff, it's not in my app list and don't appear when I search for it... Maybe it doesn't exist in my region?
Break-in period is real, my panel looked a lot better at hour 500 than it did at hour 1. I don't think running color slides and manual pixel refreshes is necessary though, just use the TV. The Sony A1E manual specifically warns against overuse of the manual pixel refresh option.
What region are you in? It shows on the store on my C8. I am in the United States.
The PS4 Netflix app is inferior to LG's built-in Netflix app.
For whatever reason the PS4 Netflix app either applies HDR to every show or to none of them (depending on what system settings you have it set to).
The only time I watch Netflix (or Amazon) via my PS4 is when the girlfriend's sleeping and I need to plug headphones into the dualshock.
HDR game mode on a B7 is so dim! How could anyone play this shit!?...........peeeerlease :-0
Could you try it with Resident Evil 7 and post some pictures.
Just bought an Apple 4K TV and I tried 4K HDR content on Netflix and I'm not sure what it is but there seems to be some type of judder and it's making me dizzy actually. Anyone got any ideas, I have both match framerate and dynamic range on.
This. What i did is play a few movies on auto repeat. I think I had 4-5 different full screen movies that I used and had them on repeat. I would usually change the movie every 4 hours or so. Break in is real. My set looks a lot better than the first day I used it. Usually when having dinner or spending time with my wife i would let the movies play. The LG's have a automatic pixel refresher that it does every 4 hours the TV is used. This is different than the one you can manually start that takes an hour to complete. The auto one is like a light refresher that it runs after 4 hours or when it has run 4+ hours and it is turned off. I would turn off the set for 30 minutes or so after 4.5 hours of running movies, then start the process all over again unless i was using it for gaming. My LG looked a lot better after 100 hours an even more after about 300 hours. I think I have only run the manual one twice so far. It really is not needed unless the picture gets bad. But yeah, aging the pixels is a real thing and like you said it looks better the longer I have used it.
Congrats on throwing money down the drain for an inferior viewing experience.
I probably buy a good 5-6 movies a week on iTunes, the sales are very good.
They cost $4 per, on average. Were you referring to discs? Discs that would have cost me 4-5x as much, minimum?
iTunes HD to UHD upgrade is a godsend. Most folks say the quality gap between discs and iTunes is minimal.
I'll be there soon :)
They really are...and for good / new movies too.
The idea with using color slides to break it in is you're just doing it faster and in a more controlled way. It also tends to help protect against burn in / IR since you're aging the pixels before someone in the family forgets and leaves CNN on all day while you're at work. The newer the panel, the more the problems you'll have typically.
Instead of babying it for a month or two, you get it over with in a week or two. You can also check if any issues pop up quicker to go right back to the seller and skip the RMA headache.
AVS has a bunch of topics on it, and slides. Once done you can also grab calibration files from there.
It is pretty amazing that a lot of people don't understand that an OLED does look better after several 100 hours of use. I was floored how much better my set looked from the moment I turned it on till a few days ago. It does really get better with age. The reason I did the movie thing and let full screen movies run on repeat was that my set was in the game room which I only use every other day for only a few hours, some weeks I don't go the game room for 3-4 days. I wanted to get to the 300 mark quickly versus day to day, which I most likely still not hit the 300.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...ssion-banding-vignetting.html#/topics/2896737
Some more info there.
Seems it's 50/50 on slides vs fullscreen content break in. Back with plasma it was 80/20. Both methods are fine, but some sort of aging out of the box is the consensus while keeping it away from gaming HUDs and news tickers.
Protip dump the PS4 netflix app for the built in Netflix app on your TV. Console Netflix apps don't support Dolby Vision while the tv app does.
I'm really tempted to get a new TV before GoW. I need a bigger set anyway, but the shit thing is my price range high end is £500. No chance I can get an OLED for a few more years yet but my 32" TV is too small for the room it's in now. I'd also quite like 4k and HDR. Eyeing up a few sets on Amazon - mainly because I know it can reliably be delivered this week xD
I have noticed the difference between my C8 and my KS7500. The pro's are significant - better colour, better blacks, better motion, better definition. The con's are subtle but obvious - dimmer, ABL fluctuation, image retention and chance of permanant burn in. To be honest OLED's seem more designed to be for movie watching then anything else. LCD (specifically backlit FALD LCD's) may be better for games. Or to put it another way, for PC games a really good LCD monitor is probably best. That said, for general usage OLED's are great. At last I have a TV with no blooming (or colour seepage where a bright colour seeps into the black around it) and no clouding. Yes, I'm used to a dazzingly bright screen but I'm just going to have to get used to the difference. But if you're not sure about lower brightness, burn in etc get a FALD LCD.
What're these calibration files you speak of? First I've heard of them? Are there ones specific to the B7/C7 any of you guys have used?
they also do this stupid thing on both the xbox and ps4 apps where they go into hdr mode regardless of whether or not the content you are watching is hdr or sdr
So I shouldn't be gaming (with HUDs) for the first 300 hours on my B7?
Too late for me, I basically games from day one. Haven't noticed any issues though.
I don't have a scientific answer. But from reading a lot of forums, you don't want static images that stay for a pro long amount of time till after the break in period. I however did game on my unit starting on day one, but I did not play any one game for a ton of sequential hours, which I rarely do with any game anyways. My set never had issues even with gaming on day one, with the exception of top 30 minutes of IR, but in between gaming I ran full screen movies to get to the 300 hours. Just don't play something with super bright UI for hours and hours on end and you should be fine.
I am sure there will be others weighing on this. I just suggest you enjoy your set, don't play a game for a ton of straight hours that have static, non moving bright UI's etc.
The main use I get from my oled b7 Is gaming. I have been gaming since day one. In fact , when I got sick and could not do anything other than stay at home, I was playing 8 hours non straight for days in a row (had just bought the tv ), and no issues at all
Of course you can. Just don't go afk on your tv and leave some menus on there.
HDR game mode on a B7 is so dim! How could anyone play this shit!?...........peeeerlease :-0
Are you sure it isn't because each of these shots have you looking at the sun, so it's contrasting the rest of the scene? It would be worth showing us a normally lit shot to compare.
Below are two shots I took on my LG B6 (largely the same set), on XBX HDR. The first shot shows something similar, but the one that's normally lit looks fine.
That's what I did. But the wifi signal takes forever to display the content in full 4k glory.
Link the TV to LAN is a must.
Break-in for OLED is a myth held over from the old plasma days. OLED is a continually diminishing technology, in that the pixels will age over their lifetime naturally. It doesn't matter what you do to the set in this magic 300-500 hour period as you are working the pixels exactly the same as you will be doing for the rest of the panel's life.
I can tell you now, without pics, that R7 will look amazing, as it's a very dark game with lots of bright speculars, this is what OLED does best.
The camera has crushed shadow detail a bit, so it's lighter in person, but still contrasty, the point was to give an impression of the brightness, and it's possible to tell from those shots, being blown out etc, that it's a very capable TV, and no way dim, and again I swapped to cinema, and again it's identical.
- Status