Ah. Okay. Guess my bro can only go up to 7000 series. Thanks, friendo
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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2
- Thread starter Soda
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I would suggest taking a look at the builds in the OP. You can sort of plan around those scenarios in terms of components.
It's tough to give advice because the sky is the limit really, so it depends on your usage and budget. I will say that the new AMD CPUs are due soon so check into that.
I took out the GPU, tried it and heard the same buzz sound - I think it's def the PSU.
It's a Corsair modular rm650x - I don't have another system to try this out on. Should I buy a set of cables and try replacing them first, then if those still don't work buy a new PSU?
Retro project:
I have recently acquired a 10 year old HP Pavilion.
https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c01969874
The only difference from stock it a 1030 GTX video card. What else can I do to "pimp it out" so to speak? Looking for ideas. I know the technical limits in terms of upgrades. LGR woodgrain?
I have recently acquired a 10 year old HP Pavilion.
https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c01969874
The only difference from stock it a 1030 GTX video card. What else can I do to "pimp it out" so to speak? Looking for ideas. I know the technical limits in terms of upgrades. LGR woodgrain?
If it were me, I'd just buy a whole new PSU. There's a chance it's the cables, but it's far more likely to be the PSU itself. I suppose if you can grab some cables for not much money at all, go for that route first, but If you're talking more than a quarter the cost of a new PSU then I'd say just go straight to the PSU.
Really wish i had not tossed out my IBM PC XT 8 years ago after finding it buried under old blankets in a cedar chest. It would have made a great retro project. The thing cost $2000 in 1984, the equivalent of $4,833 today, mostly because it had DUAL!!! floppy drives and a 20 MB HDD (standard was 10 MB).
This power supply I got from Amazon UK shipped from Germany so it has a European 16A plug. Would I be good to just plug the 13A cable from my current power supply into it? They're both 750W.
all we can do is try - i work in software development, so i know how this goes
what's a good resource to figure out how to wire the power cables back up? i have no idea how i figured this out the first time i put it together
I'm not sure, tbh. Every time except my very first, I've just known where everything goes by muscle memory, sort-of. Hopefully someone else knows a good resource. :)
About to go ahead with my new build, but just wanted to check if there were any obvious incompatibilities or silliness I haven't seen.
CPU - i9 9900k
Mobo - Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Pro
RAM - 16GB DDR4 Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000mhz, C16 (CMK16GX4M2D3000C16)
GPU - EVGA RTX 2080 XC Gaming (already owned, going to move into the new build)
CPU Cooler - Corsair Hydro H100i
PSU - Corsair HX850 80+ Platinum
Storage - Kingston A400 for OS, Samsung 860 Evo for games
Case - Corsair Carbide 400C
The main things I'm concerned about are compatibility with the memory and if everything is going to fit in the case. My first time buying a mid-case (I usually buy the big boys).
Apart from that, does it look like a good complementary build?
CPU - i9 9900k
Mobo - Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Pro
RAM - 16GB DDR4 Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000mhz, C16 (CMK16GX4M2D3000C16)
GPU - EVGA RTX 2080 XC Gaming (already owned, going to move into the new build)
CPU Cooler - Corsair Hydro H100i
PSU - Corsair HX850 80+ Platinum
Storage - Kingston A400 for OS, Samsung 860 Evo for games
Case - Corsair Carbide 400C
The main things I'm concerned about are compatibility with the memory and if everything is going to fit in the case. My first time buying a mid-case (I usually buy the big boys).
Apart from that, does it look like a good complementary build?
Ok so, i've put everything inside and... Yeah, beautiful cable management is a big nope.
But at least the vital componentes are cable-free and have room for air cooling. Changing/removing cables is going to be a pain, though.
I just booted it a moment and looks like works just fine. It tells me that no boot device has been found. I have already my win10 USB pen ready for later so i'll tell you how things will be working from this point.
Wish me luck guys. I've put 1000€ on this baby...
But at least the vital componentes are cable-free and have room for air cooling. Changing/removing cables is going to be a pain, though.
I just booted it a moment and looks like works just fine. It tells me that no boot device has been found. I have already my win10 USB pen ready for later so i'll tell you how things will be working from this point.
Wish me luck guys. I've put 1000€ on this baby...
Does anybody know of any PC desk cases that also have the sitting/standing raising mechanisms?
I am thinking of upgrading my desk to a PC desk case to save a bit of space and to justify having so much RGB (lol)
I am thinking of upgrading my desk to a PC desk case to save a bit of space and to justify having so much RGB (lol)
Ok so, i've put everything inside and... Yeah, beautiful cable management is a big nope.
But at least the vital componentes are cable-free and have room for air cooling. Changing/removing cables is going to be a pain, though.
I just booted it a moment and looks like works just fine. It tells me that no boot device has been found. I have already my win10 USB pen ready for later so i'll tell you how things will be working from this point.
Wish me luck guys. I've put 1000€ on this baby...
I don't know the case. Can you not run cables behind?
Compatible with my gsync monitor and my 2080?
I know there are a limited amount of freesync monitors that work with gsync, but none of them stood out when I browsed the list before.
Nope, it's a Fractal Node 202. It's a very very tight case. But i think i shouln't worry. Only downside is removing cables if I have too. I'll think something if the moment comes.
Yeah I definitely didn't see anything functional to worry about there. It's just fun when you can make them all tidy, window or not.
Yeah it's a shame the PSU cables are not shorter or with L-shaped connectors, that would help a lot with cable management in this case IMO.
If you want to go off the deep end (with me) you can get custom cables made for your case/PSU/MB/GPU. They fit exactly.
Is it time to start saving up for a big SSD now? I see the PS5 stuff and can't help but think that if console games are built with them in mind then that will surely affect their PC versions and how those are built. Do we expect PC games to be build with SSDs in mind starting from next year?
Are there even currently available SSDs that could do what the PS5 is doing or do we have to wait until next year to see that tech available for PC builds? (Either way I plan on waiting but I'm just curious)
Are there even currently available SSDs that could do what the PS5 is doing or do we have to wait until next year to see that tech available for PC builds? (Either way I plan on waiting but I'm just curious)
OP
OP
Games aren't "built" around HDD or SSD speeds at all, as far as I know - loading between levels takes whatever it takes, and in-game loading is not to my knowledge bottlenecked even by old 7200 RPM/SATA III HDDs. I think HDDs will still be prevalent enough in the next five years that there will be no games requiring an SSD.
Sony claims the PS5's SSD has higher "raw speed" than any existing PC-based SSD, but that is a meaningless claim. There are multiple methods to measure SSD speed (sequential, random, small file size, large file size, write speed, read speed, etc) that without hard evidence, I'm chalking their claim up to complete marketing fluff. They compare the speed to the PS4 Pro, but the PS4 Pro only has a standard spinning HDD... and it's 5400 RPM, not even today's modern 7200 RPM drives.
The point being, I am very doubtful that Sony has some secret sauce SSD in there - and even if it does, is the difference of, say, a 2 second load screen versus a 0.5 second load screen worth waiting to upgrade when you can get extremely good and extremely affordable SSDs right now? I say no - if you have a need for an SSD now, get it.
tl;dr: I don't think there's any special thing going on with Son'y SSD in the PS5. I could definitely be wrong, but it sounds a whole lot like marketing fluff so far, as the only comparison they've given us is one versus an old HDD.
looks good !
You shouldn't have any issues with the RAM, especially since it isnt in the 3600+ speed range.
I see. That makes sense. Then I guess if I'm ever in need of one I won't bother waiting. Thanks for the reply.
OP
OP
For a build of that level, I would really recommend a better OS SSD than the A400. That drive does not have internal DRAM; generally, the lack of DRAM is an indicator of a cheaper/budget drive that will run through its rated lifespan much more quickly, and I believe will tend to slow down more at higher capacities (but having trouble remember if that last part is 100% correct). I'd suggest something like one of the following, instead:
Samsung 860 EVO, Crucial MX500, Lexar NS200, WD Blue 3D, SanDisk Ultra 3D, or an Intel 545s. If those are a bit too expensive, then try from the following list: Crucial MX300, Team L5 Lite 3D, ADATA SU800, HP S700 Pro, Gigabyte UD Pro, Seagate BarraCuda SSD, or Kingston UV500.
You could also look for M.2 drives, and I'm a particular fan of the Inland NVMe Premium or the XPG SX8200 Pro (or non-Pro).
Yes that's fine.
I am not your health & safety officer so don't 100% rely on this lol, but a quick Ohm's law calculator says 750W power @ 240V is only a 3.125A current anyhow.
http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator
Question, anyone have any recommendations for a big TV setup? I keep going back and forth on picking up small PC for under my TV and a traditional wired mouse/keyboard just is not an option. My main use would probably be something like Steam big picture mode or Retroarch/Recalbox which is obviously best suited to a controller but I might end up wanting to browse the web occasionally which is an exercise in frustration if I just have a controller. I also don't want to have a mess of different control schemes I have to get up and switch between to do each.
I'm curious if any of you do this and if so what you do for it?
I'm curious if any of you do this and if so what you do for it?
Im not sure if this is the right place to ask but I couldn't find another one - is it possible to use an old Macbook shell to build a new laptop inside of it?
I love my 2012 MacBook but the only things you can upgrade is storage space and ram.
I love my 2012 MacBook but the only things you can upgrade is storage space and ram.
Considering Apple's largely proprietary slim designs, heavy use of glue and soldered components instead of screws, and how taking one apart wrong can literally destroy it I'm going with no.
Laptops aren't built with easily interchangeable parts like traditional PC's outside of Drives and occasionally the RAM. You're not going to be able to purchase say a laptop MOBO and put it in a random laptop shell it'll only fit in the exact laptop it was made for and maybe a few in the same generation by the same manufacturer. You could attempt to make new holes to fit the old stand-offs but that could also irreversibly destroy the board. On top of that a lot of slim designs solder the components to the motherboards. Then there's the cooling pipes which are custom machined to fit the laptop in question. The problems just go on and on and on. That's not even scratching the surface of the problems you'll run into doing something like that.
There are a few outlier desktop replacements that use desktop parts but those are exceptions.
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I mean no offence, but if you believe a 7200rpm HDD will be of any use at all for the latest AAA games through the next generation then I don't think you've been paying attention.
Yes, there is a level of marketing fluff to the Mark Cerny "faster than any PC SSD" claims, but it's not fanciful bullshit - it's just PCIe 4.0 NVMe, which comes "for free" on the Zen 2 platform and of which there should not be any doubt will be an improvement over today's PCIe 3.0 Samsung Evo 970s. There is almost no doubt the next gen Xbox has this feature too - although obviously there have been no official confirmations to this end, the embedded xbox marketing taskforce on this forum have not been shy in making it clear their upcoming machines feature NVMe SSDs also.
Games today are absolutely "built around" the limitations of mechanical HDD transfer speeds - the very concept of "levels" that take time to "load" is such a concession! The very idea of a "Load screen" too.
Observe the demonstration given of the PS4 disk subsystem, bottlenecking in-game loading in Spiderman's open world when you increase the movement speed:
In my opinion, with both high performance consoled having this available by default - there will absolutely be games made in the next 5 years that require this kind of asset streaming performance only attainable with at minimum an SSD. Now, I would expect a PC with a PCIe 3.0 SSD to be just fine, but mechanical disks? No.
The Corsair K63/lapboard: https://smile.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Wi...sair+lapboard&qid=1558464768&s=gateway&sr=8-2
and whichever Logitech wireless mouse you prefer.
Yeah I figured. Thanks.
I guess building laptops is a lot more difficult?
When I was playing on my TV, I used an Xbox One controller and adapter + a logitech wireless keyboard with trackpad. This is what I have, but this is a more recent version and this one's a bit fancier with backlit keys and USB charging. (The first two take AA's. I'm using Eneloops for my Xbox controllers, keyboard, etc.) They aren't great as gaming keyboards, but will work fine for general web browsing, getting around in the OS.
A DS4 can use it's touchpad as a laptop-style touchpad to control the mouse, very good for any non-typing desktop / web usage. I should think a Steam controller can do a similar trick too?
I haven't done any PC building in a few years. I just need to know, is Intel coffee lake bad? I remember Intel getting a shit ton of flack for some of their processors but I don't remember which.
I'm not sure what type of flak but CL is fine.
There are some exploits (that won't affect most people) and they will use a lot of power on the high end if you let them.
Or you can buy the cabling/connectors and make them yourself, if so inclined.
I think Intel has gotten some flack for:
- Sticking with 4 cores and incremental frequency upgrades for so long (pre-Coffee Lake).
- Forcing Skylake/Kaby Lake users to upgrade motherboards to move to Coffee Lake (relatively short lifecycle for those boards).
- Requiring higher end (more expensive) Z-series boards for overclocking and fast RAM.
- Unimpressive stock coolers, no bundled stock coolers offered for K-series chips.
As a Coffee Lake owner, I may be biased here.
Aside from the recent exploit patches having an up to (that's worst case scenario) 50% performance hit there's no major issues with any given Intel CPU. If you're going mid-range though you're probably better off waiting on the next gen Ryzens.
Well, here it is. I've finally finished:
It's a beauty, and a HOT one. CPU is working at 48º while i'm downloading Metro Exodus from Steam. It's been 36-38º on idle, which I think is pretty good. Graphics card the same, pretty OK.
The true fire test (no pun intended) will be on June-July.
It's a beauty, and a HOT one. CPU is working at 48º while i'm downloading Metro Exodus from Steam. It's been 36-38º on idle, which I think is pretty good. Graphics card the same, pretty OK.
The true fire test (no pun intended) will be on June-July.
Very nice!Well, here it is. I've finally finished:
It's a beauty, and a HOT one. CPU is working at 48º while i'm downloading Metro Exodus from Steam. It's been 36-38º on idle, which I think is pretty good. Graphics card the same, pretty OK.
The true fire test (no pun intended) will be on June-July.
Cool, thanks a lot!
Can't wait. My 3570k is so beyond long in the tooth now, this has been a long time coming.
After I install my new motherboard and cpu, can I just use Windows 10 normally without reinstalling it? I know that Windows 10 might not be activated anymore but are there any issues I can expect?
OP
OP
My point wasn't that a 7200 RPM is a recommended purchase over an SSD, but that Sony's SSD approach is by no means going to be the minimum hardware requirements for any games in the next five years. There's no way that PCIe 4.0 SSDs will be a required component to play any game anytime soon. I understand the arguments and points you're making, but I would still be very surprised if an SSD (SATA III or PCIe 3.0) at all is a requirement to play any game in the next five years. Either way, my recommendation wasn't to skip an SSD and go for an HDD, it was to go get an SSD now if you need one, don't wait in case PCIe 4.0 SSDs become available at some point.
I've popped in my old SSD with Windows 10 and used it without issue multiple times... even went from Intel to AMD and had no issues. BUT it's highly recommended that you do a fresh install, and that's what I'd advise you to do; it's what I do on most of my new builds that I expect to use for month than a month or two.
Fair enough, yeah I'm fully on board with that recommendation.
I wouldn't be surprised if HDD streaming speeds will be the minimum spec for low res textures at 30fps and sata SSD speeds being recommended read speeds. NVME being the optimal option for streaming the highest resolution textures and meshes.
I ordered a 1440p/144 Hz monitor cause there was a great sale on it, but I have a 1070.
- Will that be enough for 90+ FPS in most games?
- If not, what would a good upgrade path be?
Also, I heard that the 2060 had really good performance in 1440p. Would that be an upgrade or a sidegrade to a 1070?
- Will that be enough for 90+ FPS in most games?
- If not, what would a good upgrade path be?
Also, I heard that the 2060 had really good performance in 1440p. Would that be an upgrade or a sidegrade to a 1070?
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