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The PC Builders Thread ("I Need a New PC") v2
- Thread starter Soda
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Where do yall go to see if there are any good deals on graphics cards?
I'm signed up to Wario and Slickdeals on twitter, I check EVGA website and newegg once in a while and thats about it.
I really want a 1080 at 400$ or a 1080TI at 500$
I'm signed up to Wario and Slickdeals on twitter, I check EVGA website and newegg once in a while and thats about it.
I really want a 1080 at 400$ or a 1080TI at 500$
Think I finally ordered the final component for my build. Tallied up the total...
Still will probably order individually sleeved custom PSU cables.
Sorry, I don't really get your question because if you just want to try an OS, you can always partition your HD and install it on that partition or just get a cheap HDD. So yes, you can always go back to windows by selecting to boot to windows. I would just suggest you use a virtual machine instead of going through all the trouble since since doing a hackintosh may not be a simple plug and play if you don't have the right components.
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Hmm, I have a cheaper Z390 mobo and 9900k build ordered. Are there any rumors about problems with any Z390 boards, or is it solely Z370?
I've decided the build I want:
i52500k -> Ryzen 5 2600
16gb DDR3 1866 MHz -> 16 gb DDR4 3000 MHz
GTX 970 -> GTX 1080ti
Motherboard: -> MSI B450 Tomahawk
Yesterday I got the 1080ti and god, I forgot how satisfying is to put everything on max in graphic settings, 4K and still be playing smoothly.
Now I'm doubting why I'm changing everything else if with the 1080ti, the i52500k (OC to 4.5) and that DDR3 ram the two games I tested run great (Assassin´s creed Origin and Shadow of the Tomb Raider).
i52500k -> Ryzen 5 2600
16gb DDR3 1866 MHz -> 16 gb DDR4 3000 MHz
GTX 970 -> GTX 1080ti
Motherboard: -> MSI B450 Tomahawk
Yesterday I got the 1080ti and god, I forgot how satisfying is to put everything on max in graphic settings, 4K and still be playing smoothly.
Now I'm doubting why I'm changing everything else if with the 1080ti, the i52500k (OC to 4.5) and that DDR3 ram the two games I tested run great (Assassin´s creed Origin and Shadow of the Tomb Raider).
decided against getting a 9900K and just kept my 6700K. instead bought a RTX 2080 (FE) and 32GB RAM. 3d mark has me "Better than 92% of all results" and i'm only running at 4.3, 2666 and no OC on the GPU. it's been a long day so can't be bothered pushing overclocks but it feels good having these specs :D
will probably replace my 6700K next year when the new Ryzen cpus come out.
will probably replace my 6700K next year when the new Ryzen cpus come out.
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If you're happy with what you've got, don't "upgrade" to anything else. Just save a bit of money on the side and when you start feeling that things aren't running as well as you'd like, you can buy whatever is the biggest and best at that time. We're getting closer and closer to the 3000-series Ryzen CPUs release (I'm guessing late spring or early summer 2019) and those will likely be pretty decent upgrades over the 2000-series.
Nice! What GPU did it replace? And what speed/latency ram did you buy? I'm also on a 6700k.
What do you guys think about buying an RTX 2070? On Newegg they run about the same as most 1080s. And seeing as how they're slightly better than the 1080s and have that all impressive, as of yet unused ray tracing shit, I feel it's a better deal than just getting a 1080. Still, i'd like to consult with you guys since im relatively new to all this. What do yall think?
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If prices are equal or within about 5%, I'd buy an RTX 2070 over a GTX 1080 and an RTX 2080 over a GTX 1080 Ti (even though the Ti has more VRAM). However, seems like the RTX cards are usually $100 or more over the GTXs. If you've got a good deal though, go for it. There's no downside to an RTX 2070 over a GTX 1080 except for the pricing.
Depends on what do you do with it.
For gaming it might be overkill.
This one is about 500 and it's from EVGA. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487413&ignorebbr=1 Backordered atm but if the price holds up, what do you think?
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What motherboard? The z390 motherboards are all supposed to be beefed up in general with vrms but there is a reason why some cost more. The more costly ones are generally built with higher quality vrms and more of them to help sustain power hungry chips like the 9900k. Ultimately though we won't know how the 9900k runs in all motherboards until we get reviews and reports in the wild.
Though if it's a super cheap motherboard I'd seriously reconsider. There are two things about the 9900k I think we can infer right now:
1) It is going to be power hungry
2) It is going to run hot so make sure to have a decent cooler
The rest we will have to find out over the next couple days to weeks.
Evga and MSi have models for 500. Id rather have a 2070 for 500 than a 1080 for 400 and over.
I don't know if those more expensive rtx 2070 cards are even worth it ever because it's not like the 2070 runs hot and typically over clocking is based upon silicon lottery. Evga do have a 2070 model for 529 with a full backplate which I would also consider. The 499 evga 2070 does not give you the back plate.
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story time! so ive been noticing my cpu (6600k) getting hammered while playing AC odyssey hitting a high of 85c during playing. never noticed my temps getting anywhere near that high in the past. im using a corsair h100i v2 with thermaltake riing 120mm fans (basically for aesthetics). i figured it might be thermal paste, its been over two and a half years since i first installed it. reapplied, no change. decided to add the static pressure fans that came with the cooler making it a push-pull config. temps dropped by OVER 20c with a high of 63c.
dont be me. use fans that are suitable for radiators.
dont be me. use fans that are suitable for radiators.
How are the stock Dynamic X2 GP-14 fans on the Fractal Design cases? Looking at a few reviews that pop on google they look "ok" but don't really know if I can trust most of these reviews, should I replace them or just keep them and add some more fans?
Also on the subject of fans, is there a large difference between having say 6fans(3front, 2back, 1 top or something like that) and 9fans(3 in each)? Or even with less fans?
Also on the subject of fans, is there a large difference between having say 6fans(3front, 2back, 1 top or something like that) and 9fans(3 in each)? Or even with less fans?
I've already bought the other components, I'm just waiting for them to arrive. I don't regret it though, it's been so long since I built a PC that I forgot how stressful but rewarding it feels when you receive the parts and start to build it haha.
I've got a Define Mini C, which comes with two Dynamic X2 GP-12s (the 120mm version of the fan you're talking about), and they're fine. They're very quiet and keep my components cool, though I'm running modest hardware (3rd Gen i5 and a 1050 Ti). Depending on the hardware you have you probably don't really need 6 or 9 fans. 1-2 intake and 1-2 exhaust is generally fine for most setups. Not sure if you posted your part list somewhere already, but that might be good to mention for that type of question since the number of fans you might need is going to heavily depend on the heat output of your components.
EDIT:
Relevant video
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Well in that case, you're gonna have a bomb-ass system and I suspect you'll be really happy with it.
Quoting this from a couple of pages back, any help would be appreciated!
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There are some builds I've put together (with community input!) in the OP that have some explanations as to their relative gaming performance and why the parts were chosen. It links to PCPartPicker, so if you load those up on desktop (as opposed to mobile), you can change your region in the top-right to UK pricing. That'll give you an idea of what you can get for your money, mouse/keyboard/monitor not included.
I'm guessing you'll be getting something around an i5-8400 or a Ryzen 5 2600 (or 2600X) as your CPU, an RX580 8GB, GTX 1060 6GB, or GTX 1070 for your GPU (maybe a GTX 1070 Ti). 2x8 (16 GB) of DDR4, a 500 GB SSD, a 1-2 TB HDD, a ~550w PSU, and then a decent motherboard and case, based on your budget. I'm not super familiar with UK prices, but that's a rough idea of what you'd get.
Thanks for the video, yeah it doesn't seem like it's worth getting 9, or even 6. I'm thinking I'll go with 2 front 140 and 1 back 140(the stock ones) and then just add a 140 on top too and it should be fine enough, seems past a certain amount you hit massive diminishing returns.
Thank you very much, I'll use this as a starting point and do some research. Was feeling a bit overwhelmed.
I asked the qquestions laid out in the OP, if you don't want to answer you don't have to.
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Whoa - I love helping people build from scratch! It takes some back and forth but usually I (or others) can at least get someone started on the hunt.
Couple thoughts on my build that I thought I'd share here. Full disclosure, I last built a PC about 5-6 years ago, it was an Intel i5 based PC that I bought the motherboard with the processor installed. Haven't built or thought about one till I put together this:
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox Pro 5
Power Supply: EVGA 650 BQ (BQ-0650-V1)
Mother Board: GIGABYTE X470 AORUS Ultra Gaming
Processor: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X (YD270XBGAFBOX)
AIO Cooler: Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML120R
RAM: Corsair Vengance LPX 16GB DDR4 DRAM 3200mhz C16
SSD: Samsung 970 EVO M.2 2280 250GB
Graphics: GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1080 (GV-N1080D5X-8GD)
I think total was right around $1300 out the door.
Made a couple of rookie mistakes, including bending a couple of pins on my processor. Terrible I know, but was fortunately able to straighten and get inserted in slot correctly. Installing cooler was a pain only because of fit but not too bad at all. Rest of build went together smoothly. First post was easy and quick and while Win 10 install hit a snag, a re-install went quickly/painlessly.
RGB options though, were a real pain in the ass, and while I'm ultimately happy with how it turned out. I wish I had known more about it when picking parts. In short the MasterLiquid ML120R is an addressable RGB unit that uses a 3-pin setup for lighting. My motherboard is an RGB one that uses 4 pin headers (also has an RGBW header for LED strip). Case, is a master cooler case, but uses RGB fans (3 pin) without PWM leads.
So all in all, I have to use the Cooler Master controller to manage the cooler lights (set to cycle through colors) and the motherboard to manage the case fans. I think I might have picked a different case (for addressable RGB and flow control on fans) and a different motherboard so I'd only have to worry about one shitty software to control RGB. AND yeah, both apps for RGB control seem pretty crappy to me. Of course I can always replace case fans and likely eventually will, but still could probably have done better picking parts up front.
Anyway, just thought I'd share; system runs great (I haven't really pushed it with any games yet) and looks fine.
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox Pro 5
Power Supply: EVGA 650 BQ (BQ-0650-V1)
Mother Board: GIGABYTE X470 AORUS Ultra Gaming
Processor: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X (YD270XBGAFBOX)
AIO Cooler: Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML120R
RAM: Corsair Vengance LPX 16GB DDR4 DRAM 3200mhz C16
SSD: Samsung 970 EVO M.2 2280 250GB
Graphics: GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1080 (GV-N1080D5X-8GD)
I think total was right around $1300 out the door.
Made a couple of rookie mistakes, including bending a couple of pins on my processor. Terrible I know, but was fortunately able to straighten and get inserted in slot correctly. Installing cooler was a pain only because of fit but not too bad at all. Rest of build went together smoothly. First post was easy and quick and while Win 10 install hit a snag, a re-install went quickly/painlessly.
RGB options though, were a real pain in the ass, and while I'm ultimately happy with how it turned out. I wish I had known more about it when picking parts. In short the MasterLiquid ML120R is an addressable RGB unit that uses a 3-pin setup for lighting. My motherboard is an RGB one that uses 4 pin headers (also has an RGBW header for LED strip). Case, is a master cooler case, but uses RGB fans (3 pin) without PWM leads.
So all in all, I have to use the Cooler Master controller to manage the cooler lights (set to cycle through colors) and the motherboard to manage the case fans. I think I might have picked a different case (for addressable RGB and flow control on fans) and a different motherboard so I'd only have to worry about one shitty software to control RGB. AND yeah, both apps for RGB control seem pretty crappy to me. Of course I can always replace case fans and likely eventually will, but still could probably have done better picking parts up front.
Anyway, just thought I'd share; system runs great (I haven't really pushed it with any games yet) and looks fine.
I'm not familiar with all UK prices either but I just did a quick search on Amazon UK and you can get a 1080 for a little over 500 quid. If this is going to be primarily for gaming, then my suggestion is instead of thinking about the overall budget first, you decide your ceiling for the GPU and then build around that based on the remainder of budget. After all, that's going to be the most important component for you. Any modern processor worth half-a-shit will be perfectly fine to accompany it so you don't have to go big on CPU.
Spend on GPU now unless you plan to replace it again relatively soon is my best recommendation if primarily gaming. Otherwise you're going to end up in that annoying spot where you wished you had because your current card didn't last you as long as you wanted but has lost enough value that selling it and buying another one will still end up costing more than just buying a better card at the beginning.
I know 2000 is your top end but if you really are willing to spend that I see you can get a 2080 for less than 900 pounds. That leaves you 1100 for everything else which is more than enough.
I was watching this video and it does seem like Nvidia has two separate chips for the 2070:
The 500 dollar MSI 2070 looks to have a couple less power phases than its 600 dollar model and Paul had some issues raising the power limit. However he was able to get the card stable in Afterburner with an overclock around the same boost speed as the 600 dollar model. So I'm guessing the more expensive 2070s will be able to overclock higher. But at this point we are probably looking at a couple percentage difference in actual gain. Still there is a reason to buy the more expensive 2070 if you want too, but at this point of 600 dollars the card is getting over priced I'd look for a 1080ti on sale.
The 500 dollar MSI 2070 looks to have a couple less power phases than its 600 dollar model and Paul had some issues raising the power limit. However he was able to get the card stable in Afterburner with an overclock around the same boost speed as the 600 dollar model. So I'm guessing the more expensive 2070s will be able to overclock higher. But at this point we are probably looking at a couple percentage difference in actual gain. Still there is a reason to buy the more expensive 2070 if you want too, but at this point of 600 dollars the card is getting over priced I'd look for a 1080ti on sale.
I think that if you have to have something NEW, and you're looking for something in the 1080's range, then yeah the 2070 is the card to buy, today. I also wouldn't spend over $500.
We have come a long ways in just a few years time when the third tier card is $500+
Yeah it's kind of crazy now how performance increase and price increase have gone together for RTX cards. Makes the 2070 feel like a refreshed 1080 and the 2080 a refreshed 1080TI with RTX features since the cards all hover around the same price point respectively. It's tough to compare the 2070 to the 1070 and the 2080 to the 1080 when Nvidia put the 2070 in the 1080 price bracket with the 2080 in the 1080 ti price bracket. The 2080TI gives an actual performance boost but the cost increase is insane. Which overall sucks after waiting two and a half years and this is what Nvidia gives us. DLSS and Ray Tracing better be pretty dang good, because that's the main selling point to price parity like this. If you are looking to buy a new video card I'd still consider the RTX cards, but it's not necessarily a slam dunk. More like how much cheaper is the comparable GTX 10 series card and do you care about RTX features going forward.
Looking at how the other cards have performed, you can almost guess now that a 2060 will be between a 1070 and 1070 TI and probably cost 350 to 400 dollars.
Also, Buildzoid posted a review of the MSI godlike z390 motherboard and one of his takeaways in the video was an 8 pin power connector should be enough for a non insane 9900k overclock. Assuming this is true then hopefully that means Z370 mobo owners will be good to go without having to worry about that extra 4 pin connector. The extra 4 pin connector can help with LN2 over clocking but that's something that most people here can ignore. This also should mean you can do a decent 9900k over clock too without needing a top of the line z390 board as long as the VRMs are decent.
Looking at how the other cards have performed, you can almost guess now that a 2060 will be between a 1070 and 1070 TI and probably cost 350 to 400 dollars.
Also, Buildzoid posted a review of the MSI godlike z390 motherboard and one of his takeaways in the video was an 8 pin power connector should be enough for a non insane 9900k overclock. Assuming this is true then hopefully that means Z370 mobo owners will be good to go without having to worry about that extra 4 pin connector. The extra 4 pin connector can help with LN2 over clocking but that's something that most people here can ignore. This also should mean you can do a decent 9900k over clock too without needing a top of the line z390 board as long as the VRMs are decent.
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I'm stuck with my $200 mobo. But if I could do it all over again I'd probably go cheap and get the $113 EVGA z370 FTW mobo they have at Microcenter, plus the 9600K. That's about a $350 combo. Otherwise this year the Ryzen 5 2600 + B450 mobo combo for around $230 really can't be beat. Those are exceptional values.
/punt on 2017-2018!
I've been to Microcenter twice this week and they insist that they have no stock for the new processors and "hopefully we have some here on release morning" which is tomorrow. I didn't go there today, but I think I'm going to head there in the AM tomorrow.
oh and MrBob, I always enjoy your posts.
/punt on 2017-2018!
I've been to Microcenter twice this week and they insist that they have no stock for the new processors and "hopefully we have some here on release morning" which is tomorrow. I didn't go there today, but I think I'm going to head there in the AM tomorrow.
oh and MrBob, I always enjoy your posts.
Can I get a recommendation on a head set with mic for pc gaming? USB would be fine. $200 is the most I'm willing to pay but would rather pay sub $100.
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I've been using a HyperX Cloud for years now and have never had any complaints. The base model is wired and doesn't have the "surround" sound but has always been comfortable, havent had mic issues and it is detachable which is nice. Base is like ~$67. Cloud X2 has "surround sound" for ~99 still wired.
I've tried Logitech headsets and steel series in the past but I like these most.
So I was thinking about shrinking my build because I feel it's taking too much space and wanted some input since i'm still relatively new to the pc scene.
Here's my current build so far:
Know i'm gonna have to replace motherboard/case and maybe the power supply since it's not modular but the main issue i'm having is with the case. Looking up cases I am interested in This Phanteks ITX case however the lack of disc drive is kinda annoying and looking at various other cases disc drives seem to very sparsely used. Me and family mainly use it for disc media like CDs/Blu-rays/Emulation.
Only other issue I might have is just finding a motherboard with WiFi.
Willing to put 200-250 towards this but i'm gonna have to save up for a bit first.
Recommendations?
Here's my current build so far:
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4DDzCb
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4DDzCb/by_merchant/
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3GHz 8-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Newegg Business)
Motherboard: ASRock - X370 KILLER SLI/ac ATX AM4 Motherboard ($98.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($139.99 @ Newegg Business)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($84.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate - FireCuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg Business)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card ($289.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: Rosewill - GUNGNIR X ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - 650W ATX Power Supply ($48.89 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: LG - WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($59.99 @ B&H)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($124.79 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus - VG248QE 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor ($274.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Asus - VZ239H 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($139.89 @ OutletPC)
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4DDzCb/by_merchant/
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3GHz 8-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Newegg Business)
Motherboard: ASRock - X370 KILLER SLI/ac ATX AM4 Motherboard ($98.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($139.99 @ Newegg Business)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($84.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate - FireCuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg Business)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card ($289.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: Rosewill - GUNGNIR X ATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - 650W ATX Power Supply ($48.89 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: LG - WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($59.99 @ B&H)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($124.79 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus - VG248QE 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor ($274.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Asus - VZ239H 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($139.89 @ OutletPC)
Know i'm gonna have to replace motherboard/case and maybe the power supply since it's not modular but the main issue i'm having is with the case. Looking up cases I am interested in This Phanteks ITX case however the lack of disc drive is kinda annoying and looking at various other cases disc drives seem to very sparsely used. Me and family mainly use it for disc media like CDs/Blu-rays/Emulation.
Only other issue I might have is just finding a motherboard with WiFi.
Willing to put 200-250 towards this but i'm gonna have to save up for a bit first.
Recommendations?
X470-I ROG from Asus has built in WiFi.
Yeah, that's an annoying issue with most new cases. A lot of the time, an external disc drive is the only viable option.
Anyone live in NYC? Are there any stores with a really good selection of computer mice which I will be able to actually try out?
I find choosing a mouse online, where I can't actually feel and try it, to be very difficult. I've already returned two...
I find choosing a mouse online, where I can't actually feel and try it, to be very difficult. I've already returned two...
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I don't live there but my family does and I know there's a MicroCenter in Brooklyn. That'll probably be your best bet.
Does anyone know if this drop in SSD prices will continue? I'm wanting to buy one soon, but read somewhere on Reddit that they may go back up in price. The sale on current one that I want ends tomorrow and I'm trying not to give into FOMO if it does go down. The Samsung T5 1TB (What I am looking at) is $229 right now, and seems like a crazy good deal for someone that also does filmmaking and uses the new Blackmagic camera, so it's tempting.
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