True enough. Granted Manhattan streets get pretty populated so you look weird to lots of people. I did this once in front of a door to photograph a frog statue near a school and was surprised I didn't get stepped on.
True enough. Granted Manhattan streets get pretty populated so you look weird to lots of people. I did this once in front of a door to photograph a frog statue near a school and was surprised I didn't get stepped on.
True enough. Granted Manhattan streets get pretty populated so you look weird to lots of people. I did this once in front of a door to photograph a frog statue near a school and was surprised I didn't get stepped on.
True enough. Granted Manhattan streets get pretty populated so you look weird to lots of people. I did this once in front of a door to photograph a frog statue near a school and was surprised I didn't get stepped on.
Yup:this guy? I spent over a decade of my life in that neighborhood.
Sometimes I get very dirty on photography park excursions. An instagram page full of pretty much the same thing sounds boring.Yeah I imagine foot traffic can be super limiting just like cold hands! MN winter light and cold is just super hard to deal with. The light isn't right and you're cold as fuck so it's easy to give up trying to get the shot you want. I take way less photos in the winter. I've been to NYC and even got some great central park snow shots in March a few years back, but yeah I haven't laid on the ground there for shots lol.
Some dudes I know are nuts about like mpls skyline ice reflections and lake Superior fog shots in the dead of winter. I honestly just don't care enough as basically the exact same shots exist a thousand times over and it's fucking subzero usually to hit those shots. Maybe I'm lazy. I think I'm kinda more about that eye for stuff you don't see all the time. Like 90% of mpls photags insta pages are the same fucking thing, and then with loads of bots following them too.
Go native or go home. If you get the X-H1, you get the added benefit of the OIS lenses working in tandem with the X-H1 IBIS for buttery smooth video. There is ZERO reason to get the X-T2 over the X-H1 if video is your priority.Does anybody have experience using FF glass on a Fuji APS-C body?
Why did you even fight me on that? Also yeah just get native Fuji stuff. No reason to mess with crazy crops on that system.Adorama finally got back to me and Jaded was right lol. It almost feels scammy with the numbers I got.
Does anybody have experience using FF glass on a Fuji APS-C body? I'm thinking of the X-H1 or the X-T2 since both of them have Log video and 4K which are now my priorities. I'd love to get IBIS too but it's not so much a priority.
My shortlist also includes an a6300 and G85 but Fuji is at the top.
Either way, the purpose for this thing is pretty much just video.
Looking forward to hearing y'all's thoughts if y'all have any.
Just wait for 3-6 months then, IMO, the X-H1 price will continue to fall and you can probably pick up a kit with a grip and 3 batteries for $900 new by then.I'll definitely go native with Fuji 3-6 months from now. I'm just curious about FF glass coz I gotta make it work in the meantime.
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Sometimes I get very dirty on photography park excursions. An instagram page full of pretty much the same thing sounds boring.
Just wait for 3-6 months then, IMO, the X-H1 price will continue to fall and you can probably pick up a kit with a grip and 3 batteries for $900 new by then.
A photography instructor once got on my case for putting various things on my IG and told me to just focus on people. I listened for a bit then eventually just blocked him and went back to doing whatever I wanted since he was being an asshole.
Research what you need now and what they cost used. Fuji is really good on the used market.I'll definitely go native with Fuji 3-6 months from now. I'm just curious about FF glass coz I gotta make it work in the meantime.
I bought the grip/3 battery kit for $1100 a week ago on Greentoe. Returned it, but still, I think you could go even lower.Yeah I personally like to mix up my IG with different pics
This would be a fucking steal. It's already at like $1300. Which I think it a great price
Depends on what the point of your IG page is. If you're purely after followers, stick to your genre, people follow because they like your genre. If it's a portfolio of services, then you can be more varied. If it's a personal page, post your food pics and enjoy your 50 followers lol. I just made my personal page private with all 93 followers; most of those are close family and it's my replacement for facebook.A photography instructor once got on my case for putting various things on my IG and told me to just focus on people. I listened for a bit then eventually just blocked him and went back to doing whatever I wanted since he was being an asshole.
Also, the mystery of my b/w self portrait on Flickr continues...it got FOUR THOUSAND VIEWS in one day last week, it's now my number 1 viewed pic by over 5000k views lol
Also, the mystery of my b/w self portrait on Flickr continues...it got FOUR THOUSAND VIEWS in one day last week, it's now my number 1 viewed pic by over 5000k views lol
I honestly just use it to share content. Most of my genres are covered in it, though I guess a second one for street stuff, whatever.Depends on what the point of your IG page is. If you're purely after followers, stick to your genre, people follow because they like your genre. If it's a portfolio of services, then you can be more varied. If it's a personal page, post your food pics and enjoy your 50 followers lol. I just made my personal page private with all 93 followers; most of those are close family and it's my replacement for facebook.
I honestly just use it to share content. Most of my genres are covered in it, though I guess a second one for street stuff, whatever.
I can't get above 600. Half of this has got to be my inconsistent posting schedule. I'm sitting on a couple of thousand images but I don't always like posting old stuff.If you tag each post correctly you should build up followers. A lot of people just like good photography and they don't care if it's street or landscape
I can't get above 600. Half of this has got to be my inconsistent posting schedule. I'm sitting on a couple of thousand images but I don't always like posting old stuff.
Tags. I went from 700 to 1000 in a few weeks because I started researching tags
yeah I am pretty bad with tags, I use them, but I guess they are optimal ways to do it, but I mostly just post whatever I want in there, all these grid consistency in colors and tones is not for me, just kinda boring.
Has nothing to do with hashtags (those are people that will follow for a week and then unfollow), or posting schedule. It's all about following other accounts, liking other pictures, and leaving comments to build a "community" so to speak. Likes and follows aren't free unfortunately.I can't get above 600. Half of this has got to be my inconsistent posting schedule. I'm sitting on a couple of thousand images but I don't always like posting old stuff.
I just need to post enough.
My profile looks like this
https://imgur.com/a/A8auGBN
The pictures of my wife usually get me the most followers 🤷🏻♂️
I don't want it to feel like work and shilling though. Between online dating, actual work and looking for photography jobs I can only do but so much.Has nothing to do with hashtags (those are people that will follow for a week and then unfollow), or posting schedule. It's all about following other accounts, liking other pictures, and leaving comments to build a "community" so to speak. Likes and follows aren't free unfortunately.
I follow a good amount of models and fashion photographers and such. I have no idea what my main follower demographic is.I only follow other photographers. For some reason I get a lot of asian and Italian fashion shooter following me
Is what it is. Gotta play the game to get the benefits.
My wallet be like:Lens Rentals posted their technical review of the 135GM.
"Let's make this simple and straightforward. In the center, that's the highest MTF I've seen on a non-supertelephoto lens. The highest. Let's put particular emphasis on the purple line, which is 50 lp/mm. That's a higher frequency than any manufacturer tests (that we know of), appropriate for fine detail on the highest resolution cameras. We would consider an MTF of 0.5 at 50 lp/mm to be very acceptable. This is hugely better, nearly 0.8 in the center. We've never seen that kind of resolution before."
"But as far as the test goes, the results are pretty simple. This is the sharpest lens we've tested. Period. (At last count, that's out of 300+ lenses tested.)"
Now we can begin the conversation of whether or not you want your 135mm portrait lens to be sharp or soft lol
It's a really boring, shitty, dishonest game though.
goddammit. i want this so bad.Lens Rentals posted their technical review of the 135GM.
"Let's make this simple and straightforward. In the center, that's the highest MTF I've seen on a non-supertelephoto lens. The highest. Let's put particular emphasis on the purple line, which is 50 lp/mm. That's a higher frequency than any manufacturer tests (that we know of), appropriate for fine detail on the highest resolution cameras. We would consider an MTF of 0.5 at 50 lp/mm to be very acceptable. This is hugely better, nearly 0.8 in the center. We've never seen that kind of resolution before."
"But as far as the test goes, the results are pretty simple. This is the sharpest lens we've tested. Period. (At last count, that's out of 300+ lenses tested.)"
Now we can begin the conversation of whether or not you want your 135mm portrait lens to be sharp or soft lol
I would assume the stock of new Qs will vanish pretty fast at this point. Better think with your heart and not your head on this deal!Can buy a like new Leica Q for about $2500 USD. Seriously tempted.
Lens Rentals posted their technical review of the 135GM.
"Let's make this simple and straightforward. In the center, that's the highest MTF I've seen on a non-supertelephoto lens. The highest. Let's put particular emphasis on the purple line, which is 50 lp/mm. That's a higher frequency than any manufacturer tests (that we know of), appropriate for fine detail on the highest resolution cameras. We would consider an MTF of 0.5 at 50 lp/mm to be very acceptable. This is hugely better, nearly 0.8 in the center. We've never seen that kind of resolution before."
"But as far as the test goes, the results are pretty simple. This is the sharpest lens we've tested. Period. (At last count, that's out of 300+ lenses tested.)"
Now we can begin the conversation of whether or not you want your 135mm portrait lens to be sharp or soft lol
It has the feature set of a soccer mom camera at the professional price tag with the 24-105 on there. I'm probably over exaggerating a bit yes, but it's definitely not anything I'd waste my money on.Local Fnac had both the Sony and Canon 24-105 on display. Both are pretty fine looking lenses. The Canon has a slicker outer appearance but feels a bit larger too, likely because the barrel is more evenly wide compared to the Sony. The prices though. The Eos RP was €2600 for the body+lens. I don't know why anyone considers this a soccer mom camera lol. The Eos R was €3800 with the 'kitlens' so that isn't much better though.
Right in time for 100MP cameras and subsequent 200MB 14-bit RAW files lol.
But damn everything about that lens looks good. Hope this design philosophy fully carries over to the next Sony lenses and trickles down to the G lineup.
The lens ecosystem for RF looks great, just have no interest in their bodies. With the R being the more premiere model being a sad truth since it's pretty much not as good as an A7RII. It's saved by it's lenses.Yeah, if nothing else, I really like how the Canon RF mount lenses look.
Still waiting on a 1.4 35GM. I've heard too much inconsistent shit about the Zeiss Distagon to ever want to blow money on it. It's either shit, great or worse than the Rokinon.I honestly hated everything about the 25-105 RF in person. The zoom ring felt rough and cheap and the plastics felt like they'd scratch and ding more easily than the Sony. Sony is killing it with the new lenses, it's like they introduced a new design philosophy with the 24 and that carried into the 135. If and when that 35/1.8 comes out, I think it will be fantastic.
Most likely more accurate as well, like a lot more I would bet. If one doesn't even event photography in weird lighting the Sigma is definitely a smart buy. I can't predict my lighting at all though.Based from Manny Ortiz video, it also focuses better in low light than the sigma 135. Almost the same in good light though.
Based from Manny Ortiz video, it also focuses better in low light than the sigma 135. Almost the same in good light though.
They do not like the 70-200GM.The folks over at Phillip Reeve put together their portrait lens guide for Sony, and it's very comprehensive.
https://phillipreeve.net/blog/user-guide-to-portrait-lenses-sony-a7-series/
Admittedly they're mostly comparing it to the Canon variant which has had 3 generations of refinement.
For a first gen lens I've been pretty happy with mine. It's probably not perfect, but it's been able to create some good images.Admittedly they're mostly comparing it to the Canon variant which has had 3 generations of refinement.
If you do weddings, you should look into a lighting setup. Multiple flashes that you can fire remotely, reflectors, etc. Even for events I'd look into multiple external flashes and set them up in convenient locations.Most likely more accurate as well, like a lot more I would bet. If one doesn't even event photography in weird lighting the Sigma is definitely a smart buy. I can't predict my lighting at all though.
That is a lot of shit that I don't want to haul around let alone worry about people knocking over. I have two flashes and a strobe and to be honest I don't even bring those outside of the studio unless I'm doing a head shot on location. I don't always work just in one room, last event was multiple rooms with subjects that I don't know the placements of. Last wedding I did the only reason why I wished I brought my lighting set up was for the couples portraits and quite frankly that was it (Also wished I had a Fuji TTL flash). Not to mention I'd probably have a few going off when I don't even need them going off which would probably burn out one, it's something that I've contemplated and ran into once with a photographer doing that as I was video recording the same he was doing and it pretty much made out footage look a bit like crap because of it. When you don't drive and pretty much get to things using public transportation the last thing you're going to do is bring a four foot high bag that weighs probably 50lbs on top of your camera bag unless you already know it's crucial to actually doing a job. On top of that I don't want to flash 80 people just to photograph one person. Also it's impossible to know what a convenient location even would be since I never know the lay out of the event until it's actually even happening or even who I'm even supposed to be photographing. I get to an event and I pretty much have to adapt to what's going on without being that much of a distraction for the attendees. The most bit of prep work I've done recently was telling somebody in maintenance to turn the stage lights up higher. Also on top of that I don't even know if I'm allowed to bring and set up lights for these things without someone complaining about them and asking me to turn them off. I've covered and seen people cover a good amount and it's something I don't see at a lot of corporate events unless it's the occasional step and repeat area.If you do weddings, you should look into a lighting setup. Multiple flashes that you can fire remotely, reflectors, etc. Even for events I'd look into multiple external flashes and set them up in convenient locations.
Most likely more accurate as well, like a lot more I would bet. If one doesn't even event photography in weird lighting the Sigma is definitely a smart buy. I can't predict my lighting at all though.