I wouldn't give up hope. DD2 uses the RE engine which has scaled pretty well for low end systems in the past.
I wouldn't give up hope. DD2 uses the RE engine which has scaled pretty well for low end systems in the past.
This is the first RE engine game that is skipping the PS4 though.
Does anyone know how to get Nier Automata to recognize that I'm using the OLED, i.e. an HDR capable display? I can't find the option to enable HDR anywhere in-game and from what I've read it's supposed to automatically to kick-in if HDr is enabled at the OS level.
I'll add some notes as I've messed with this some this morning. I've attempted to set up Super Model the way I do on Windows by having Emulation Station-DE launch it but at least in this emulator's case it doesn't seem to support launching on linux. I've asked on discord to confirm that is the case, but the user guide implies it isn't.This Reddit thread has basically what you need aside the games (which you gotta find yourself of course):
Reddit - Dive into anything
www.reddit.com
The video (which also has a linked Launchbox thread) will also help - that's where the config files are.
Follow the instructions and you should be fine.
I can launch it with the Super Model UI and it works fine with Steam Input, though I will look at adding the individual games to Steam to launch it that way instead. I don't like adding roms to Steam's UI but model3 only has a few I play so it shouldn't clutter up things too much.
It definitely launches on Linux the way the guide above explains. I added each as separate games to Steam, then chucked them in a folder for easy access, they work like a dream.
Probably not many takers on this, but WWE2K23, currently part of humble choice, runs absolutely great on Deck. Seems to stick to around 60, I set to 45 as it feels awesome w/ 90hz on oled deck.
No you are right it definitely does, just for the time being the games need to live in their own separate spot compared to where all the other emulation related stuff on my deck is.
Yup. Sucks
You can just hotspot from your phone to get passed the rockstar bs and then you can go offline again.
Yes mate, and I've got you to thank for it 👍 I'll be adding other games for sure. There's something fun about messing with the options, freeplay for everyone!
I love my Deck so much.
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I know the feeling. Each week Im discovering a new game to play on it!
The biggest downside of adding them as individual steam entries - as opposed to using Model 3 UI or it's imo superior cousin, Supermodel's Assistant - is that each entry creates a compatdata folder of 300-500 MB. So the entire model 3 catalogue then occupies 10-15GB of internal storage. Mileage may vary on how big a deal that is, I have a 256gb LCD so I prefer to keep things on the SD when possible. Using a UI also allow you to customize resolution etc on the fly if you're docking for TV play.
Great to have both options though, that Reddit user is a boss.
For sure. I think Final Burn Alpha emulation is my last port of call, more so just for Progear no Arashi and Alien vs Predator is all that's left for me. I used to own the former, big old noisy CPS II board and Supergun, arcade bliss!
It has been brought to my attention that there is a version of Supermodel out there on Flathub/Discover. That is apparently what Emulation Station looks for, though out of the box I can't get it to run. Need to investigate more.
There is a guide to it here:
USERGUIDE.md · master · ES-DE / ES-DE Frontend · GitLab
ES-DE is a frontend for browsing and launching games from your multi-platform collection.
gitlab.com
And yeah @ the overhead for compat data. Noticed that when I was dealing with installing Blizzard stuff.
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Good to know about the folder/space issue. I had wondered about that side of things. Ive got 200GB space free on my SD Card (and another 200 on the Deck itself) so Im good for now, but will definitely keep a close eye on space/
I got Chiaki working, but with some caveats: framerate and latency was smooth, but I would get green Matrix-style blocks filling up the screen while I tried it out.
And does it only work if the PS5 is connected to WiFi? I use a wired connection for my PS5, and it wouldn't be detected with Chiaki unless I switched to a WiFi connection. I tried to look up a way to have it work with the PS5 wired, but I couldn't find an option to port forward the PS5 with my router (TP-Link Deco).
And does it only work if the PS5 is connected to WiFi? I use a wired connection for my PS5, and it wouldn't be detected with Chiaki unless I switched to a WiFi connection. I tried to look up a way to have it work with the PS5 wired, but I couldn't find an option to port forward the PS5 with my router (TP-Link Deco).
I had the green encoding artifact issue when my PS5 was on WiFi. I found it was stuck on WiFi despite being connected via Ethernet. Had to manually go into the settings to have it forget my WiFi network which got it to consistently stay on Ethernet and cleared up the green screen corruption.
If you are on the same local network, you should not need to Port Forward the PS5. I would check the PS5's local IP from the Network Settings while its on Ethernet, then see if your Steam Deck is able to ping it to see if the devices can communicate.
The settings on PS5 or Chiaki?
I also followed the official guide's settings for the bitrate and such, so double-checking if there are better recommended settings for those.
mp4/h64 was more stable for me, but h.265 did look better, at the cost of the type of artifacting you describe.
This is not just about the Steam Deck, but does anyone know of any way to remove the Soundtracks collection? It appeared a few months ago and I keep hoping it will disappear at some point. I've read some people saying that it goes away when you untick Soundtracks from the Library view, but for me it remains there at the end of Collections View list.
I have no devices connected, why is it defaulting to "external device"? LCD/3.5 just showed 'Speakers/Default'
View: https://imgur.com/Ybtocnh
View: https://imgur.com/Ybtocnh
in the US, they provide a free shipping label. In other countries the support is probably handled differently.
Steam Support :: Valve Hardware Return Packaging Guide
I just did this and it was smooth. Here's what I did.
1. Download and run the Emudeck export tool on old deck containing the SD card. It will back up everything. I used an external SSD to hold the backup.
2. Pop out the SD card and insert into the new deck.
3. Run Emudeck from scratch on the new deck and point it to the SD card. Use the custom install and run through all the options.
4. Plug the SSD into the new Deck and download and run the Emudeck import tool.
That's it. Everything worked like a charm for me. The import/export tools are right there when you go to the Emudeck site.
Can I also just say it's a little annoying having to check both threads to get all the info?
We should have done this like we did last time, where the other thread is officially for shipping only, then you "graduated" to the OT when your deck arrived. Oh well.
We should have done this like we did last time, where the other thread is officially for shipping only, then you "graduated" to the OT when your deck arrived. Oh well.
Am I blind or is the only way to get to the steamdeck.com/news page (which shows when updates happen) by manually typing in that URL?
If I go to steamdeck.com there doesn't appear to be a news link anywhere anymore (since the OLED page refresh) like there used to be.
If I go to steamdeck.com there doesn't appear to be a news link anywhere anymore (since the OLED page refresh) like there used to be.
You could try the solutions suggested here to deal with the green artifacts: https://old.reddit.com/r/DeckSuppor...aki4deck_green_screen_issue_try_the_appbuild/
FWIW, I built Chiaki using the readme in the post and it seemingly solved my green block problem for the most part. Strangely enough, when I went back to the flatpack version, it was running much better so I wonder if something happened in the back end. They also suggested forcing your Deck onto the 5gz channel 48 or 36, perhaps avoiding the interference from the higher band levels.
Mine does the same thing. Keeps defaulting off of the main speakers, kind of strange.
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Just got my Deck OLED. Samsung display, didn't notice any dead pixels and all buttons seem to be perfect.
I read somewhere the Deck recommended brightness settings when running an HDR game? I didn't get any pop ups or suggestions when I ran a game (Disco Elysium).
I read somewhere the Deck recommended brightness settings when running an HDR game? I didn't get any pop ups or suggestions when I ran a game (Disco Elysium).
Seems to be common, but doesn't effect anything as far as I can tell.
Question for those that have experience with the ROG Ally and the OLED Steam Deck - I understand that most people would say the OLED Deck is the best handheld out there currently; however, if I am able to get a Z1 Extreme for about $400, is the Deck worth 50% more at ~$600 for the cheapest model(with taxes)?
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Is 25-50% slower performance on the Deck worth the HDR+OLED? For me it is. There's thousands of games that run perfectly on the Deck, and hundreds that don't. Most of those hundreds will run perfectly on the Deck 2. Steam OS is awesome, but the Deck has some quirks. IMO it's 100% worth the trade-off, I have seen Ally in person at Bestbuy, and the Deck's screen in HDR destroys it.
Plus HDR in Moonlight and Chiaki will also be a lot better than Ally. So those games you can't run, you can stream in better quality with HDR.
Thanks for your input. I would totally choose the OLED Deck if all things were equal. However, if I could get the Ally for $200 less than the Deck, would that change things at all?
I would say so. I meant to say I'd pay that for HDR OLED.
But ideally you'd buy both and just return the one you don't want to keep!
The experience is so different that its really hard to qualify the decision in terms of costs. I wouldn't tell people to buy an Ally purely because it had better colors/contrast than the LCD Deck, and I likewise wouldn't tell people to get a Steam Deck OLED over an Ally for purely the same reason. The strengths and weaknesses of the two platforms are different enough that you really need to think about more than just the screen.
True, but the screen is literally what you spend 1,000s and 1,000s of hours focused on - basically the entire time you are using the device you are looking at the screen. So if the performance of the games you play is great, then I'd argue the screen is the next single most important factor of the device. And no other handheld has the HDR of the Deck.
Though I never had huge issues with any handheld's controls, that is obviously a huge factor for some.
Happy with the ROG Ally I have, happy with the OLED Steam Deck.
If you are okay with Windows and a lower battery life, but make up for it with much better performance I'd suggest the ROG Ally. If you want really long battery life, the Steam Deck OLED will get you there, but won't have the same level of gaming performance (although its fine for many games) as well as certain games won't work without installing Windows which is both a bit finicky on the device and will reduce battery life.
For $400 to me, I'd personally go for the ROG Ally instead of the Steam Deck.
Chiaki still won't detect the PS5 in LAN cable mode.
If I hit the + sign on the Chiaki screen, it shows the PS5 under the "registered console" bar. What do I put under "Host"?
Just set mines up yesterday. I think for streaming outside of your home network, you need to setup a different instance with settings configured for outside streaming, but not 100% sure.
This requires the user to have an HDR monitor as well, or some form of dummy HDMI dongle that can do that. I'm guessing not a lot know about that requirement